The Blue Streak Gets New Clothes

[Shoganai]

 :lol:

Just wait until you see what I'm doing with the valve for the AUX fuel cell. :deal:
I'll make you eat those words.

 :neener:

Gwen:

If you had any real originality then you'd modify the gas cap so that you could open it with a "church key." (Beer opener.)

[Shoganai]

I made this tonight.

It's mounting plate for my J&M CB.




























Brackets that do this are sold on the interwebs for $50+; I think this cost 2 hours labor and <$4 in parts.


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[Shoganai]

Dress it up.




















Note to self: no matter what, do NOT, I repeat DO NOT wash off or lose the markings between mated peices. :baldy

I don't know for sure how many combinations there are for 8 holes on 5 parts where the x-axis on part A (short bar) has the pontential to be either North or South AND left of or right of the part B (long bar) AND part C (long bar).

BUT I CAN tell you I think I found them all.


It took me two hours to sort that nightmare out. :lol3


What I lack in intelligence I make up for in persistance.


.

[Shoganai]

Steve bought me this cool RAM mount ball that has a bolt so the it can mount here.











Next New grips and throttle lock.














I had 2 issues.  One the device was not articulating right, so I took it apart and found it gummed up.




So I cleaned it and re-greased it and put it back together.





Now it was working well, but had a problem getting and combination of internal and external shims to cause it to grip and release correctly.

[Shoganai]

Now back to the wiring...

Seven of the wires in this pic are 3" TOO short. :baldy and required splicing to bring into spec.


Steve suggested removing 2 of the switches so that one location could be a Power-Let and the other the place where I plug in my helmet for the J&M.





There's a LOT going on in these pics but I won't waste your time. If you have any question, I'll be happy to answer them.




Near = Eastern Beaver Mini fuse block
Far = J&M




I noticed some brake fluid damage (note to self, order diaphram)





New bling.








Leave it to BMW to make this simple project as difficult as possible.





If you didn't know, the switches come pre-wired and are dropped in from the top. From there the wires are fished back through that psychedelic-taste-the-rainbow-Skiddles-nightmare of wires under the fuel tank.


:huh





Screw the shit! :evil






















The new ignition flange was loose and the more I looked at it, it didn't look like the OEM part, but I had it so I used it.


I made a gasket to help with seating it.





Without it, it was off center.













Some tank-to-inner-fairing new gaskets.





Fitting it together.














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[frankenduck]

FYI: You can fine-tune the operation of a Throttlemeister by re-positioning the throttle perch on the handlebars.

And installing the Audiovox CCS100 cruise control is WAY better than a throttle lock..

[Scott_]

And installing the Audiovox CCS100 cruise control is WAY better than a throttle lock..

Agreed +1

Not sure where she would mount it all up now though...... :hmm:

[Shoganai]

The following pics are about building a time zone clock in the right side fairing panel. Not a lot of words, but again ask if you want more info on anything.





The switches are not waterproof.
































I tried a long time to overcome that gap.

















































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[Shoganai]

Unable to overcome the gap, I headed in another direction.

Coated in bearing grease...



Foam cast.


















































I broke the wires off two of the switches. Not thinking it was a big deal, I soldered them back on.
















Using a pill box, epoxy putty and black silicone I proceed to mount the switches.








.

[Shoganai]

Putting it all together.






























Well, I messed up somewhere...I fried three clocks and ALL the switches.





Replacement part have been ordered, so moving on to other things.


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[Shoganai]

The next is an internal tank beg LED wired to one of the left side fairing switch panel. This way I can flip a switch and have instant light in my tank bag instead of first finding a flash light, holding with my mouth or hand while looking for something.


That is waterproof, silicone coated white LED strip. It can be cut between every 3 LED's and I needed some for another project.

I also needed the ready made waterproof connector on one end for this project later. So after I cut it, I wrapped the ends with clear Rescue Tape to seal the ends. It work GREAT.





Top left = HID PIAA 910's
Top right = 3000 lumen CREE LED's
Middle left = internal tank bag LED
Middle right = oil site glass LED
Bottom left = Power-Let
Bottom right = CB radio headset plug in


Note the crafty little thing I craved out of a rubber stopper for the screw in the top left.








You can see the connector I mentioned, top left. I attached it to the feed wires from the switch.








I removed the zip ties shown here.







And replaced them with the SS assembly.



That's where I attach my tank at the saddle point. The zip ties would break and had to be replaced often. This will overcome that issue.


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[Shoganai]

I piped the AUX fuel cell.





The neoprene wrap closest to the cell covers a quick disconnect with shut off valves on both sides. The other just protects the paint.















I wired in this SAE jumper for two reasons. One to attach a battery tender and two to tap power to feed the Power-Let into the tank bag.






I polished the oil site glass with head light restored to remove glare.








So the LED shining on it from inside the fairing made it easier to read.










Project for today; repair cracked tragkorbs.






























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[frankenduck]

Dayum, Gwen.  You goin' RTW or sumptin'? :2thumbup:

[Shoganai]

First...is that you in your avatar?
Cool no matter what.

Kinda...let me see...Culpeper, VA - Eastport, ME - La Push, WA - Marrowstone Is, WA - Bend, OR - Gerlach, NV - La Vita, CO - St. Paul, MN - Madison, WI - Memphis, TN - Montgomery, AL - Aiken, SC - and (home) Culpeper, VA.

In 19 or 20 days.

[frankenduck]

Of course that's me in my avatar.  It's a Killboy shot of me riding Deal's Gap on a K1100RS with a K1200 engine that I bought from Charlotte on a Fleabay impulse buy and rode home across the country a few years back.  Most people would consider it stupid and crazy but I had an awesome ride back to Seattle and got to ride some great stuff (especially The Ozarks) that I never would've ridden otherwise.  I'm sure that you, of all people, can understand.:2thumbup:

Ride report here: http://home.comcast.net/~smithduck/tours/bmwl_silkblue/bmwl.htm


Looking forward to seeing you in August. :dungee

[Shoganai]

I started it yesterday to sort out some things.




It's the little things that'll hang me.


So far I found and fixed a fuel leak from where we tapped the main tank, 4 loose fittings/screws, 2 loose wires and 1 failed electrical fitting.


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[Shoganai]

So there I was at fisher auto parts and I asked the guy "What type of paint remover would you recommend to use on ABS plastic"?

He picked up this spray can and said, "This one"












Well he DIDN'T have a damn clue. That shit MELTED the ABS plastic.





I washed and scrubbed and started sanding.












It is on very rare occasions that I recognize when to walk away.


This is one of them.

Monday I'm taking them to a professional for high quality Rino-line coating.




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[Michael in AZ]

Very much interested in seeing/hearing how the Rino-liner experience went. Black bags on the Blue Streak? Hmmm. ---Just saw that Rino does just about any color. Nice. Still wanna hear about it though!

[Shoganai]

Thanks and will do.

Here is how it looked on The Shop Whore.

[Shoganai]

I patched the cracks with fiberglass, but as of this posting I've not sanded them down.












   





Next I worked on a better tank bag mounting system.

First, I wanted to eliminate the plastic clips, especally here at the front of the fuel tank.


Those are custom sewn loop straps I had made here with the help of a local seamtress.





Here I had sewn a loop in velcro One-Wrap.





I glued velcro One-Wrap to the underside of the tank bag and here you can see how the loop straps from the frame up front engage.





Rear strap before completion.





Next, measure and mark up for side straps.





Here you can see where I looped a strap through a hole on the fuel tank and installed a snap to hold it in place.













The anvil was needed to attach the snap on the rear strap.













I installed the Power-Let in the tank bag.




This system will allow for very fast fuel fill ups.





And a waterproof quick disconnect for the internal LED.

[Shoganai]

Next, intall new exhaust.

It's forged of pure 100% Unubtainum and was given to me as a gift from a local BMW mechanic (:bow George)

It's an original EU edition K1100 exhaust. :clap


     

[Shoganai]

While I was in there I did a little house keeping.





I didn't have any rubber washers or bushing that would fit, so I made some by splitting some bulkhead bushings.











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[Shoganai]

Now...back to the time zone clock.

Starting with new clocks and new waterproof SPST switches.

First I dremeled off the tabs on the side and taped up the holes to back fill with Silicone glue.

I strengthened the wires at the clocks with heat shrink.



Two days later they were fully potted and waterproof.







First I tried to seat the switches using a plastic pill box but the cap broke off. Next I cut a piece of aluminum tubing.





And made this.





I soldered the wires to the switches and applied heat shrink.





I used vice grips to hold they while I worked on wiring them.








Because the black silicone became attached to the assembly all thread...





I made the tiny tubing sleeves you see here.











Note the BMW turn sig quick disconnect I'm using so that with one "click" this can be quickly removed from the bike if need be.














This design is more elegant and functional than my first attempt AND WORKS! :clap


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[Shoganai]

I then pulled the wheels off to get them powder coated.

I had remove the retaining clip and inner and outer wheel bearings.





Let me say this about that tool.
NEVER use the cheap POS versions of this if you can help it. Go with high quality like what you see there and you'll never regret it.





The bearing removal was MUCH harder than I anticipated.



And after 30 min. of using the slide hammer I ended up removing the hammer and just driving them thru the other side.



Now on to this...







Note to self: if at first a wooden dowel and hammer doesn't drop the fork, loosen the pinch bolts on the LOWER portion of the triple tree. :shog


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[Lone Amigo]

There no words adequate to say how awesome all this is!