Pivot Pin/Swing Arm Bearing Query

[tsbt]

Morning Gents,

Can someone confirm procedure for securing the left and right pivots: attached the swing-arm/pivots, snug at first to seat the bearings then torqued, however I noticed on the left side the space between the transmission housing and the swing arm have loads of thread showing, wondering why no washer and if the thread will eventually mutilate the bearing :dunno2: perhaps more engineering talk than procedural :tongue just wanted to confirm the assembly.

Also I didn't remove/repack the bearings, put a fingerfull of Mobil 1 bearing grease around the underside of each bearing. They weren't loose. Wonder if I should repack while down there. I hear it's a pain in the keester especially on the left side of the arm getting the bearing out...would dropping a screwdriver thru and pulling it out with vice-grips do the trick?

BEARING UPDATE with book learnin: "Never reinstall a bearing that has been removed during the removal process it becomes slightly damaged and is no longer true to alignment. If installed it will create an unsafe riding condition" Clymers :tongue

[Inge K.]

I think it would be a smart move to repack the bearings, since you allready got the swingarm off.

Each bearing is held together by the sealrings and roller cage is fixed in grooves in the races.

I`m using a expanding collet and slide hammer when dismantling, but some kind of hook to grab
the rear side of the inner race, and light snatch in the outward direction would also function I`ll guess.
But beware that the rollers is loose in the cage, and could drop out when dismantling.

Clean all parts, also the cup behind the bearing........add new grease, also fill the cup..and put together.

First fit the the inner race with roller cage and rollers as one piece, and be shure that the roller cage
snaps into the inner groove in the outer race, followed by the inner seal ring which should be
happy if fitted in the next (outer) groove, finaly the outer seal ring which fits in a groove in the inner race.

Take care with the seal rings and plastic cage.....not sold separately.....the bearings is kind of expensive.

Inge K.

[tsbt]

Here's a photo of the left pivot torqued properly, does this gap look right to you guys?

[tsbt]

I think it would be a smart move to repack the bearings, since you allready got the swingarm off.

Each bearing is held together by the sealrings and roller cage is fixed in grooves in the races.

I`m using a expanding collet and slide hammer when dismantling, but some kind of hook to grab
the rear side of the inner race, and light snatch in the outward direction would also function I`ll guess.
But beware that the rollers is loose in the cage, and could drop out when dismantling.

Clean all parts, also the cup behind the bearing........add new grease, also fill the cup..and put together.

First fit the the inner race with roller cage and rollers as one piece, and be shure that the roller cage
snaps into the inner groove in the outer race, followed by the inner seal ring which should be
happy if fitted in the next (outer) groove, finaly the outer seal ring which fits in a groove in the inner race.

Take care with the seal rings and plastic cage.....not sold separately.....the bearings is kind of expensive.

Thanks for this Inge, appreciate it. It's weird but clymers says not to reuse bearings after removal. I cant see why it would be an issue if it's done right.

[Inge K.]

The space between the swingarm and gearbox housing seems kind of normal to me.

(never counted the number of visible threads, when this work been done..............using my toothbrush which fits perfect for cleaning the threads and by judging the picture it seems be correct width to fit...................it`s one bird two stones with this....I smoke a whole lot...and get a good abrasive effect on my toothbrush, removes nicotine very good  :loopy:)

Since you asked about the tighning sequence in a earlier post.
1. Thighten the RHS fixed pivot to the correct torque.
2. Thighten the LHS adjustable pivot to the correct torque, to get the correct preload on the bearings.
3. Thighten the nut, while holding the adjustable pivot stationary.

Inge K.

[wmax351]

I found an aftermarket source for the bearings if you want to replace them. Check the alternate parts list.

[Inge K.]

I found an aftermarket source for the bearings if you want to replace them. Check the alternate parts list.

The drawback seems to be that it`s a open bearing, the genuine got two sealing rings.

And it`s 1mm more narrow, which is at the protruding part of the inner race,
which make it difficult to find another seal ring that match this....and glued on at the outer circumference.

Inge K.

[Rick G]

I think Clymers have lots of shares in a bearing manufacturing company.

[wmax351]

I found an aftermarket source for the bearings if you want to replace them. Check the alternate parts list.

The drawback seems to be that it`s a open bearing, the genuine got two sealing rings.

And it`s 1mm more narrow, which is at the protruding part of the inner race,
which make it difficult to find another seal ring that match this....and glued on at the outer circumference.

Inge K.

When I got them, I compared them to the originals. Exact dimensional match (to less than a thousandth of an inch). The height of the bearing is cited from 2 different measurements on different sites.

The outer seals fit in fine off of the BMW bearings. I have a greasing tool for them that is originally for an airhead. Snowbum actually recommends removing the seals (or using the unsealed bearings) and forcing grease through them yearly, both for the airhead and the K bikes.

[kennybobby]

Maybe it's an optical dillusion but in that photo it looks like the pin is not centered on the end of the swingarm.

[tsbt]

Maybe it's an optical dillusion but in that photo it looks like the pin is not centered on the end of the swingarm.

iphone photo trickery and whichcraft :yes wide angle lens on there, pretty good in most cases just not accurate ones.

[Rendrag]

Hi Folks,

Question - how did you get the Pivot pin out to begin with?  I had mine out a couple of years ago to replace the gear position switch, and it was a bit tight, but not completely stuck.  Now I need top open up the gearbox, and I can't for the life of me seem to prise it out :(  Seems like it's stuck tight inside the bearing in the side of the swingarm.

Cheers,

DG

[tsbt]

Loosen the locknut should come out fairly easily after that.

[Rick G]

When you losen the lock nut also clean the thread behind with a tooth brush and degreaser so as not to drag the dirt into the thread and wreck the thread. Take care the pivot and case are both aluminium so they damage easily. Also use some antisieze on the threads on reassembly and the spigot that goes into the bearing centre, if it is left dry it can rust on.

[Rendrag]

Oops, sorry, should have been more specific - it's the pivot pin on the Right hand side, that I'm stuck with - seems to be stuck in the bearing in the swingarm :(

[Rick G]

I might already be rusted in but I hope not. I have used a fairly substantial lever on those things with success. The curved end of a tyre lever (Iron for you merkins) I presume it turns but wont come out which means it is stuck in the bearing. Possibly drill and tap a 10mm thread in the centre and use a slide hammer.

[pallum]

Plenty of penetrating oil with a couple screwdrivers. And you better get ready to expand your vocabulary...

[Rendrag]

Thanks guys, using the existing screw hole in the middle (is that stock? Basically use one of the three screws that normally hold it in, screwed into the center on the pin - maybe a previous owner drilled&tapped it? :)), and a slide hammer, i got it out..  I'll make sure to give it a bit of a sand&polish before I put it back in..

Wow, I'd forgotten just how much has to come off the bike to get the gearbox out!  May as well totally strip it and respray the frame while I'm there! And all for one darned set screw in the gearbox!

[Inge K.]

The M6 hole in the middle of the pivot is stock.

Inge K.