Author Topic: Removing ABS (Read 78284 times)

Laitch · « **Reply #50 on:** November 16, 2017, 08:09:15 AM »

Quote from: tahitianrider on November 16, 2017, 07:57:56 AM

. . . can I just install a brake line between the master cyclinder on the bars and the right front brake caliper (as on the picture)? I assume that the left brake caliper will work without problems thanks to the steel tube between the 2 calipers?

Yes. A hose is installed from the master cylinder to the right-side brake.

No. Don't assume everything will work without problems. Flush the system thoroughly then be certain the brake pistons work smoothly. That's a rough-looking pair of calipers you have there. :giggles

tahitianrider · « **Reply #51 on:** November 16, 2017, 08:15:09 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on November 16, 2017, 08:09:15 AM

Yes. A hose is installed from the master cylinder to the right-side brake.

No. Don't assume everything will work without problems. Flush the system thoroughly then be certain the brake pistons work smoothly. That's a rough-looking pair of calipers you have there. :giggles

Great! thanks for the info :) I think I'll order some custom made stainless steel braided brake lines then :)

Yeah of course, I meant after flushing the brakes with some brand new DOT4 fluid haha.
Yeah those calipers do not look brand new indeed, I think the bike went through many, many winter rides before I got it.

Laitch · « **Reply #52 on:** November 16, 2017, 08:37:31 AM »

Quote from: tahitianrider on November 16, 2017, 08:15:09 AM

I think the bike went through many, many winter rides before I got it.

That's why it is important to be certain that the pistons are working smoothly and retracting fully. If necessary, you will need to open the calipers and overhaul the piston seals and maybe the replace the pistons. There is a useful post about that subject complete with photos on this site.

tahitianrider · « **Reply #53 on:** November 16, 2017, 09:27:18 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on November 16, 2017, 08:37:31 AM

That's why it is important to be certain that the pistons are working smoothly and retracting fully. If necessary, you will need to open the calipers and overhaul the piston seals and maybe the replace the pistons. There is a useful post about that subject complete with photos on this site.

Oh okay I understand, I'll make sure to check the pistons.
Great! I'll try to find that topic!
I'm already so glad I found this thread about removing the ABS, doing it myself will only cost the price of the brake lines & dot4 fluid (if no work is needed on the calipers), so about $100 when a shop ask for $500 to do it.

NYCBrick · « **Reply #54 on:** November 26, 2017, 10:31:47 AM »

I can see that a few people talked about removing the control unit in the rear cowl after they removed the ABS, but never saw if anyone followed through on that. I have been looking trough Clymer BMW manual but am not seeing anything on what runs through that loom or is in that CU (other than vaugly saying it is part of the ABS). Can anyone let me know if they removed theirs - in the process of deleting the ABS on my '93 k75 as it wasn't working when I bought it.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #55 on:** November 26, 2017, 12:20:57 PM »

When I removed the ABS from my K100RS, I just unplugged the control box and coiled up the cable and connector and fastened it out of the way. Will be removing the wiring this winter as an off season project.

NYCBrick · « **Reply #56 on:** November 27, 2017, 09:52:52 PM »

Assuming you have ridden sense, without any issues, that answers the question of does it control anything other than the ABS.

Scud · « **Reply #57 on:** December 01, 2017, 11:38:59 AM »

I deleted my K75s ABS (wasn't working when I got it). I did the same as Gryphon - just removed the control unit and hardware. I also removed the ABS relay so the ABS warning light wouldn't flash full-time. Have ridden many miles with those items removed. I don't think I'll bother removing all the wiring.

lilau3 · « **Reply #58 on:** March 01, 2018, 04:46:50 PM »

For those asking what else is in the wiring loom going to the ABS...
In the K100LT I'm pulling apart now the only other thing is the feed to the rear lights and turn signals.

I'm building a custom at the moment and want a nice minimal look, so while the nostalgia of keeping the ABS was considered it's just so damn ugly, heavy, and takes up too much space.

If I was using it as an all-weather touring bike (it's original application) I would have kept it.

I haven't got to the other end that connects under the seat yet, hopefully that's not to much of a drama as I want anything not required removed. I'll have to dissect the rear lighting wires out of this loom.

beemerphile · « **Reply #59 on:** March 02, 2018, 06:45:21 AM »

Quote from: lilau3 on March 01, 2018, 04:46:50 PM

For those asking what else is in the wiring loom going to the ABS...
In the K100LT I'm pulling apart now the only other thing is the feed to the rear lights and turn signals.

Quote

I haven't got to the other end that connects under the seat yet, hopefully that's not to much of a drama as I want anything not required removed. I'll have to dissect the rear lighting wires out of this loom.

I have the main harness out of my K11RS right now for an ABS-ectomy. Once the covering is removed the ABS and tail wiring harnesses separate easily. A look at the wiring diagrams will confirm that removing the ABS circuitry will not affect other operations. The simplest (but not elegant) solution is to remove the two blue relays, then lop off and tape over the huge ABS umbilical and do likewise with the blue terminated leads for the sensors. There are a couple of places where power and grounds are spliced in that can be clipped close to the source. I removed the ABS relay and its wiring from the relay box and clipped the wires from the second ABS relay (for the indicator light) because it shares its relay base with a relay that needs to stay. When I am finished running in the larger gauge headlight harness from Eastern Beaver and the harness for my added front Motolights, I will recover the part under the tank with hi-temp wire loom insulation from Summit Racing. Wrapping it in electrical tape or plastic wire loom wrap is not going to stand the heat under the tank. My OEM wrap was brittle from the heat so I am going back with higher rated stuff.

beemerphile · « **Reply #60 on:** March 03, 2018, 08:07:01 AM »

Here is the massive ABS umbilical cut loose from the harness.

Here is the main harness with the rest of the ABS circuitry removed. The now clean harness extension to the taillight area is shown in the upper part of the picture above the relay box.

McBrick · « **Reply #61 on:** June 28, 2020, 03:39:08 PM »

Digging up an old thread, thought keeping the info where relevant would be good.

I'm deleting the abs from my 90 k100LT, does anyone know how to get the wheel ring off of the brake disc? I have the three little bolts out but I can't seem to get the ring off, don't want to pry too hard if that's not how it's meant to come off - I know, not that it's meant to come off. ;o)

Laitch · « **Reply #62 on:** June 28, 2020, 03:59:26 PM »

Have you tried heating up the ring?

McBrick · « **Reply #63 on:** June 28, 2020, 05:08:52 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on June 28, 2020, 03:59:26 PM

Have you tried heating up the ring?

No, not yet, that's my next plan of attack if/when I can find out that it is meant to come off the brake disc.
Can anyone confirm that the brake disc and ring are in fact two separate pieces?
Thanks folks!

Laitch · « **Reply #64 on:** June 28, 2020, 05:37:16 PM »

I can. You could, too.

McBrick · « **Reply #65 on:** June 29, 2020, 12:54:12 AM »

Ah, there we go, thank you. My search was coming up with a different sensor ring that didn't look like the one I had - made me second guess and think that my disc and ring were one piece.
Consider me schooled.

Gabriel70 · « **Reply #66 on:** July 01, 2020, 09:17:31 AM »

Quote from: motodude on July 02, 2012, 09:13:24 PM

I have a '95 with perfectly working ABS and I'd like to remove it too. Besides the ugly, the extra weight and taking up half the tail storage... what does it do again?

Tom

Not certain about the USA, but here in Australia, tampering with a vehicle’s brake system can create all sorts of legal issues, especially with insurance companies.
ABS serves a purpose, and who knows, one day might save your life.
Going against the better judgement of engineers who developed ABS is absurd and unwise.
Just my opinion....

Laitch · « **Reply #67 on:** July 01, 2020, 09:49:04 AM »

The decision to inspect motorcycles and which components to inspect on them is left up to the individual states; many states don't have inspection at all. Vehicles without ABS are still allowed on the road. That's how it works over here.

Martin · « **Reply #68 on:** July 01, 2020, 04:30:15 PM »

As Bricks came with the option of ABS any problems with registration/RWC can be avoided by removing all the ABS modules, and any reference to ABS on the bike. QLD rego papers don't mention whether the bike is or isn't fitted with ABS and I believe most if not all of the other states are the same. ABS on bikes wasn't common before BMW started doing it. If fitted it must work, if fitted and it's not working it's not roadworthy.
Regards Martin.

daveson · « **Reply #69 on:** July 01, 2020, 07:04:51 PM »

Vehicle inspectors are much more incompetent than we give them credit for. There are hundreds of things to check and thousands of different bikes, nobody can think of everything.

Recently I sold a Kawasaki Vulcan. The new owner broke the front brake lever just before the rego appointment. I said take it up there, they probably won't notice, and fix it later. He looked at me like I was a mad hatter. He said look at it, it sticks out like dogs balls. I said yep to you and me cause we know it now.

He went nah and yeah and nah and yeah. He took it up, it passed.

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Author Topic: Removing ABS (Read 78284 times)