95 K1100LT Ignition Tumbler Stuck

[GWHayduke]

Larry and I've been fixing this one up for a while. Fix one thing, another bug shows up. Well, I buttoned up der Fraulein and rode her most of the week to work in 100° weather with no problems. Ignition switch has been notchy, but lubed it with graphite and it seemed to help. Took it on a 70 mile cruise yesterday, and now ignition switch is stuck in "ON" position. I think I'm going to be pulling an ignition switch now. Anyone been there before? Search isn't turning up any good write-ups.

[frankenduck]

The ignition switches in the 4V bikes are usually held in the upper fork tree by two "security" bolts as I refer to them.  When they are installed at the factory the top of the bolt shears off leaving no head. (So thieves cannot undo them.)  I don't know of any other approach to removing the ignition switch assembly other than drilling off what's left of the bolt heads.  I'd recommend drilling a small pilot hole in the center of each bolt prior to using a larger bit.  Once you've drilled off both heads the ignition switch assembly will come right out.

Then replace those bolts with regular Allen cap bolts when you put the new ignition switch in.

[GWHayduke]

I knew it couldn't be simple. Might as well check out/replace the bearings while we're in the triple tree. Anything else that is easier now than later?

[frankenduck]

I've always done it off-bike because it's a bike I'm taking apart but I'm not sure if you have to actually remove the upper fork tree off to do this.  Once you take the plastic cover off of the handlebars the bolt heads are exposed.

[Inge K.]

Since it`s probably your lock barrel that is the problem.......and the fact that it can be changed
it must be a small hole in the lock housing to acces the lock wafer at the bottom of the barrel.

But that probably is only accesible with the complete assy removed (covered by the triple tree)?

Less likely to cause the trouble is the switch, which is keept in place with a tiny grub screw at RHS.

Inge K.

[GWHayduke]

I'm betting it's the switch and something has jammed it in the "ON" position. Key won't come out, of course. So I'm betting it will be easier to just remove the switch as a unit, then disassemble, clean and replace if necessary.

Duck, looking at those security bolts in the parts diagram provided by Inge, it appears that they used LOCKTITE, to secure them. Did you ever try heating the bolts rather than drilling?

[frankenduck]

Loctite isn't the issue.  Take the plastic handlebar cover of and look at the heads of the bolts.

[frankenduck]

BMW used different types of security bolts.  Here's an example of those used on a K100RS4V.  The picture of it is very deceptive because in the picture it looks like the bolt head is meant to only turn CCW when in real life it is designed only to turn CW.

I think your bike will most likely have the kind where the upper part of the bolt head they used to install the bolt is broken off.

[frankenduck]

It's also possible that someone has removed the ignition switch before and that you'll find regular Allen cap head bolts in there.  If that's the case then just unscrew them.

[GWHayduke]

Thanks for the info. I won't tear into it for a bit...have too much on my plate right now. I'll repost when I unbutton it.

[Inge K.]

I'm betting it's the switch and something has jammed it in the "ON" position.

Here is a link about dismantling the switch.
It`s on a K100, but switch internals is close to identical.

Inge K.

[GWHayduke]

That dissassembly procedure won't work on this K1100. Pulled the top triple tree today and it's completely different. I'm looking for a disassembly diagram now. Anyone know of one?

[Inge K.]

The switch part is mounted to the lock cylinder part with a tiny (3 mm) grub screw at RHS,
and it`s covered with a dab of red paint.

Inge K.

[Brickfast]

I'm taking a chance on this hoping someone jumps on to help. I need to remove my switch and this thread has been great, but before I get into it I've noticed that the bolts holding the switch in place are definitely different. More of a dome cap than a shear-head bolt(though the dome center may be a shear point.) Any advice before I get to drilling?