Stock Shock Adjustment

[sh00ter]

Aside from the half page in the owner's manual, are there any good rules of thumb or detailed explanations on how to adjust the rear shock?  I know nothing about how it's meant to work or under what conditions to tweak it - or, for that matter, how to know if it's out of whack... any guidance is appreciated!

[johnny]

greetings shooter...

if it were me i would be looking at scoring a new aftermarket shock and getting it dialed in instead of messing with a marginal oem...

j o

[jeffhestand]

while were on the subject... at 68 K i would like to replace mine also. What have others had the most luck with that is reasonably priced????? thanks !!!!

[sh00ter]

greetings shooter...

if it were me i would be looking at scoring a new aftermarket shock and getting it dialed in instead of messing with a marginal oem...

j o

a reasonable response (not the one I'd hoped for) but tell me what's a good alternative? 

[Duc750]

Before dropping cash on a new shock try the following, set the damping adjust ment in the middle, set the tyre pressures to the manufacturers recommended setting (not the ones in the bmw manual) and then set the static sag up. While you have it on the mainstand grab a hold of the rear wheel and check for play in fd bearings and swingarm/pivot bearings, fix as appropriate. While you have a willing assistant handy to do your static sag get them to lean on the pillion seat and check for play or notchiness in the front wheel bearings.
 Ride it on a route you know well then see what you think. You may still have a knackered shock but if you've done all of the above then atleast if you buy a new spangly shock then you'll get to really feel the difference when you fit it. As you'll have a proper baseline to compare to.


Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!

[Rick G]

Before dropping cash on a new shock try the following, set the damping adjust ment in the middle, set the tyre pressures to the manufacturers recommended setting (not the ones in the bmw manual) and then set the static sag up. While you have it on the mainstand grab a hold of the rear wheel and check for play in fd bearings and swingarm/pivot bearings, fix as appropriate. While you have a willing assistant handy to do your static sag get them to lean on the pillion seat and check for play or notchiness in the front wheel bearings.
 Ride it on a route you know well then see what you think. You may still have a knackered shock but if you've done all of the above then atleast if you buy a new spangly shock then you'll get to really feel the difference when you fit it. As you'll have a proper baseline to compare to.


Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!

+1 on that and if buying a new shock the ultimate is an Ohlins but for many of us it is too expensive. A RAM SHOX from Realm engineering in UK is a very good alternative as is a works performance and both are very reasonably priced.

[GasStation]

I purchased Wilbers 631 for my 93 K75S; so far so good.  :2thumbup:

[sh00ter]

+1 on that and if buying a new shock the ultimate is an Ohlins but for many of us it is too expensive. A RAM SHOX from Realm engineering in UK is a very good alternative as is a works performance and both are very reasonably priced.

Ohlins - I've heard that as well ... Could someone share the model that matches '94 k1100rs?

[Duc750]

I'd go with Wilbers or Realm personally. I'm not a huge fan of ohlins for value, performance is great but not 20 to 40% greater

Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!

[johnny]

i have only ridden on the oem and the wp...  the wp is good for ease of switching from 1up to 2up...

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,352.0.html

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1477.0.html

j o

[sh00ter]

i have only ridden on the oem and the wp...  the wp is good for ease of switching from 1up to 2up...

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,352.0.html

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1477.0.html

j o

You ever adjust your oem ?? Or just leave it in some middle-o-the-road setting?

[johnny]

the soft hard adjustment at the top made no difference in the ride... the low middle high at the bottom made no difference... all were harsh and unpredictable...

you really dont know how f ed up it is until you get a proper aftermarket  rear shock and get it dialed in...

[sh00ter]

the soft hard adjustment at the top made no difference in the ride... the low middle high at the bottom made no difference... all were harsh and unpredictable...

you really dont know how f ed up it is until you get a proper aftermarket  rear shock and get it dialed in...

I hears tht hoss..... Keepin my eyes out for a goodun. 

[Past-my-Prime]

Any updates to rear suspension upgrades, the value of upgrading from stock, and the relative value of a Wilbers 631?  I've done some poking around here and elsewhere and there seem to be a lot of opinions. I am not planning on racing, but have found that my bike has felt more "squishy" or something (rear tire pressure at spec and not helped by changing fork oil). Leaving rear stock shock in "middle" setting.

[frankenduck]

Any updates to rear suspension upgrades, the value of upgrading from stock, and the relative value of a Wilbers 631?  I've done some poking around here and elsewhere and there seem to be a lot of opinions. I am not planning on racing, but have found that my bike has felt more "squishy" or something (rear tire pressure at spec and not helped by changing fork oil). Leaving rear stock shock in "middle" setting.

The stock shocks are garbage.

I bought a K75 in April with a Wilbers 630.  Wasn't sure of the condition of the Wilbers but the bike handled like crap so I sent it to Ted Porter's Beemershop for a rebuild.  It had too stiff of a spring (50 N/mm) so Jeff there suggested a "softer" spring (35 N/mm) since I don't weigh a lot and never ride 2-up.

With the rebuild and new spring the bike rides excellently now even when I'm riding hard. The Wilbers has the best feature of any good shock - I don't know it's there - because it does exactly what it's supposed to do.

A less expensive option is the YSS that Beemershop sells.  They know their stuff and wouldn't sell that shock if it weren't any good.
https://www.beemershop.com/category/k75-k75c-k75rt-k75s-538.html

[Past-my-Prime]

The stock shocks are garbage.

That's my feeling and even if they were good when new, now at 32 years of age I think they are definitely past THEIR prime even if I'm not actually.

.

I'm indulging myself I guess to go for the Wilbers with adjustable damping and preload but that'll give me something fun to mess about with.

[frankenduck]

That's my feeling and even if they were good when new, now at 32 years of age I think they are definitely past THEIR prime even if I'm not actually.

.

I'm indulging myself I guess to go for the Wilbers with adjustable damping and preload but that'll give me something fun to mess about with.

Many shock makers default to a spring for 2-up, fully loaded riding.  I've had lighter springs swapped in on a couple of shocks and it makes a big difference.  If the spring that comes on the Wilbers seems too stiff then consider swapping in a spring for that's right for your usual rider/passenger/luggage weight.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

For the price of a Wilburs shock, I would put a YSS on the back with RaceTech Cartridge Emulators and springs in the forks. 

I put the emulators in my K75RT and the difference in handling and ride was very noticeable in the confidence a good front suspension gave me when going downhill on a twisty road.  A very good upgrade.

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/BMW/K75%20C-S-RT/1994

[Past-my-Prime]

I have to admit to feeling a bit intimidated. Front springs/shock absorbers seem complicated! I've taken apart and put together in order to fix leaky fork seal and that was mostly just a messy business but needing to remember which bit goes where. But different springs and valves and emulators, even how to figure it out: I will replace the rear one and go from there.