Crank Case Cover Removal

[BillyMac]

I'm looking to remove my crank case cover as there is bit of an old leak on it and I want to replace the gasket(fixed the valve cover leak right up previously).



I've searched quite a bit for instructions/guides on the forums, and in my Clymer's manual, and I'm coming up dry. From what I can tell I'm going to need to disconnect a large hose running through it that appears to be part of the coolant system(#7 below). Am I right so far?



Will I need to drain any fluids prior to removing any of these parts? Are there any good step-by-steps out there already? Any good tips before I proceed?

Thanks for any help! This newbie definitely appreciates it.

[Chaos]

Good excuse to change the coolant.  You will need to pull the gas tank off to refill.  Disconnect the hose at the bottom and drain the antifreeze. Some soapy water or WD-40 lets the hose slide through the cover easier.  Easy job. 

[Scott_]

Also seriously consider replacing the rubber grommets(part #5 in the 1st pic) as they are actually the part that keeps the holding pressure on the cover. They aren't that expensive, and if they are original.......... probably not very pliable anymore.

[BillyMac]

Good excuse to change the coolant.  You will need to pull the gas tank off to refill.  Disconnect the hose at the bottom and drain the antifreeze. Some soapy water or WD-40 lets the hose slide through the cover easier.  Easy job.

Cool, thanks for the tips. I ordered those rubber grommets as well. I'm going to need to remove the gas tank completely? Drain the fuel and plug the hoses and all? Or just lift it to get access?

[sh00ter]

Good excuse to change the coolant.  You will need to pull the gas tank off to refill.  Disconnect the hose at the bottom and drain the antifreeze. Some soapy water or WD-40 lets the hose slide through the cover easier.  Easy job.

Cool, thanks for the tips. I ordered those rubber grommets as well. I'm going to need to remove the gas tank completely? Drain the fuel and plug the hoses and all? Or just lift it to get access?

You don't have to drain the tank to remove it.  There are a couple hoses which will empty their contents, have rags and a cool motor.... But the tank doesn't need to be drained.  Its easier if it's on the empty side cuz its lighter.

[frankenduck]

If you're just replacing the crank cover gasket then why waste time and effort taking the hose out of it and putting it back in?  You really shouldn't even have to disconnect the hose or drain the cooling system just to replace the crank cover gasket.

If there's any appreciable amount of fuel in the tank then you'll want to lean it up against a wall or something (front up) to keep it from draining.  Of course you really don't need to remove that either because you can get it far enough back to access the radiator cap without removing the fuel lines.

You guys sure know how to over-complicate things. :loopy:

It IS a good to idea to replace the rubber on the crank case bolts.  DO NOT he-man them when putting them back on.  They are "shoulder bolts" and all extra torque does is strip threads.

[BillyMac]

That sounds much easier and less time consuming. I didn't realize there'd be enough wiggle room on that hose to just swap the gaskets out

[TimTyler]

Replaced my crankcase cover gasket and bushings today.

Removing the old dried-up bushings from the screws required cutting them with a razor and twisting off with pliers. The new bushings slipped on the old screws easily.

My old gasket looked fairly good but I had bought a replacement so I discarded the old one. The new gasket did not require any sealant to hold it in the groove while I attached the cover back to the engine.

I tightened all eight screws just hand-tight, and then used a ratchet until I felt resistance. You can see how the screws have a raised neck, and when that touches the engine block any further tightening will strip the threads. The rubber bushings act like lock-washers and prevent the screws from loosening.

[Scott_]

not quite. the only thing the rubbers do is keep the pressure on the cover for the cover gasket to stay sealed. there is a torque spec for those bolts but its real low like 7-8nm.

[TimTyler]

not quite.

Yeah, Whatever.  :finger:

I thought about using blue Loctite on them as my torque wrench doesn't go that low.

[mystic red]

not quite.

Yeah, Whatever.  :finger:

I thought about using blue Loctite on them as my torque wrench doesn't go that low.

I see a 1/4 inch pound torque wrench needs to be added to your arsenal...

[achtung3]

DO NOT OVERTIGHT THE BOLTS.

Hand tight lightly 8nm, use a 1/4in ratchet and if you feel that you reached the end of the bolts STOP, back it up 1/2 or 3/4 turns.
Just the pressure from the rubber grommets with keep it from oil leak, if you have all cleaned and sealant on the half moon and case joints as I was told by my bmw mechanic.

I replaced my valve cover seals on my K75S a few weeks ago and took it for 800mile wknd ride and not a single sign of oil seepage.

[TimTyler]

...you feel that you reached the end of the bolts STOP, back it up 1/2 or 3/4 turns

I don't think unscrewing the bolts is a good idea.

I tightened until I felt the screws stop, made sure they were snug, and that was it.