Thinkin I should fix this leak right at the bottom of the engine on my 92 K100RS

[tsbt]

I'm a total nube at this but I feel crafty enough to git it done. I've heard a lot of ideas on the right way to do this but figured I'd best check with the experts here to see if there's anything else I should know. Here's a photo of my bleeding heart attached. Last summer I was told it's a major fix, not a minor. Basically I need to know the tools and the pain/pleasure I need to go through to stop the bleeding oil. there are no leaks on the driveway, just noticed more buildup from last year is all. Love to hear your thoughts or anecdotes about how greasy I'll need to get and what lies ahead :yes you probably know this already but it's the underbelly of a 92 K100RS. Cheers, Chris

[frankenduck]

Its most likely a dried out clutch nut O-ring causing your leak.  An easy fix but quite a bit of labor is involved in getting to it.

Click here to see how to take things apart (on an ABS I bike just use some string to tie the modulators off to the frame once you've removed their mounting bolts.) 

How to replace the clutch nut O-ring.

[tsbt]

Serious detail FD and well documented, thank you. Read through it all, it looks daunting as hell from my novice perspective but I feel like I might be up for it with notes this precise.

A couple of questions, I notice you don't have any pictures of the actual spleen and it was a verbal document - or maybe I missed it. Are there any pictures you know of that would help me visualize it? Maybe I missed a photo in there somewhere I'll double check.

Also how different is this procedure with a K1100 compared with a 92K100RS, does much change in terms of the build of the bike? I notice torquing differences noted for dif models.

Finally, you're a veteran at this, once I have this baby on the floor guts everywhere, is there a best practice for organizing nuts n' bolts, parts, that make it a bit more systematic? I notice some guys use plastic lids to hold screws/bolts organized to their respective parts, I also see good lighting is important. And a cold case of Heineken :biggrin:

I'll be buying all these tools, but I figure the money I save fixing it myself I may as well get some good tools out of it.

Thanks!
Chris



Thanks!

[frankenduck]

Line up everything you take off on the garage floor in the order that you take it off and put it's associated mounting hardware next to it. For reassembly just work your way back up the line.

Torque values for K100RS4V bikes are the same as for K1100s. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,486.0.html

Splientology: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,490.0.html

[tsbt]

This is perfect thanks! Wonder if it's easy to clean grease of an ipad screen  :biggrin: And are the bike designs/parts similar enough on the K1100 vs. K100RS that I wont get stumped on a photo/instruction describing something I don't see? Just weighing it out. Thanks for your coaching, really appreciate it.
C

[frankenduck]

The only real difference is that yours has different peg plates. Non-issue.

[BrickFlyer]

 is there a best practice for organizing nuts n' bolts, parts, that make it a bit more systematic?

Thanks!

That's what empty egg cartons are for. Mark a number in each section and put all the odd pieces in there. You can either number them sequentially, such as 1-12, and fill them as you go or you can number them based on a step in the Clymers manual (Ex 77-4 for page 77, step 4 fasteners. )  Close the lid when you fill up an egg carton so you don't scatter as many parts when you trip over the egg carton reaching for that 9th Heineken.  :drool:

[tsbt]

Dig it. I like the itemization aspect of an egg carton too. And a quick note to self: don't shake the egg cartons after 9 beers :nono

[BobZ(IL)]

A couple of friends to help and to serve as extra eyes are very useful.

[robleyd]

A couple of friends to help and to serve as extra eyes are very useful.

Of course this will increase the amount of $beverage-of-choice that is needed to complete the task  :lol:

[Scott_]

Bolts, nuts, and fasteners fit in ziploc bags with notes quite well.
A digital camera helps also. You can take your own pics as you take things apart to help put it back together.....

[wmax351]

Photographic memory, and room to spread out works well for me. I keep several boxes/dishes/etc that I put things in based on my feelings about a part.

When possible, I also try to put bolts/screws in their original places on a part when the part is removed.

[Scott_]

If you don't feel ready to tear into the project just yet, something you could try to slow down the leak.... Keep the sight glass oil level no higher than the middle of the glass. At least at mid glass and lower the oil is not at a level to leak out of the bad o-ring when parked.
How do I know this?
When I pulled mine apart to replace the bad clutch nut o-ring I had the oil level at about 3/4 of the sight glass. As I remove the clutch basket from the output shaft, the engine oil started to leak out, when it stopped leaking the level was at the middle of the glass.

[tsbt]

Thanks for all the organizing insights and coaching, really appreciate it. Clearing out my shed this week to make room for somewhere covered to work on the bike. My shed is tight quarters but it'll do just fine. The crazy part is that where I live the houses are close together so I have to take the bike around and through my neighbors yard and open the fence up to get into my shed - luckily I'm on great terms with the neighbor - the alternative is riding it directly through the main floor of my house which is two flights of stairs and out the back door, I'm sure my old house would collapse if I did.

At any rate, sprayed brake cleaner on the leak tonight as I'm preparing the shed but before I did I snapped some pics below. It almost looks like it's leaking in two places. Still not a drop on the driveway but I'm sure it's just a matter of time. Hoping the splines haven't been milled, have a feeling it hasn't been done in a while judging by odd ball discoveries and daisy-duke wiring I discovered. Anyway. Thanks again. T

[pallum]

If the oil pan is leaking it's no big deal to repair, 8 or so 5mm allen heads and it drops off. Clean up the mating surfaces real well (acetone or laquer thinner or something of the sort and really scrub it smooth with a scotch pad) and apply some sealer all around, I used Permatex Ultra Black last year and it hasn't leaked a drop.

[tsbt]

Another newbie question, ordered the Honda Moly and Wurth SIG, got the O-ring, I'll need to get new fluids, looking into the Clutch Alignment tool. Pallum mentioned

Clean up the mating surfaces real well (acetone or laquer thinner or something of the sort and really scrub it smooth with a scotch pad) and apply some sealer all around, I used Permatex Ultra Black last year and it hasn't leaked a drop.

is there anything else I should consider? Any cleaners, fluids (other than beer :yes) like to get my shopping list done and  grease under these nails. Thanks! c

[Scott_]

Be cautious of the clutch alignment tools out on flea-bay......
I bought one and still had to put it on the lathe to turn down the nose end-----was too big to fit.

[frankenduck]

Though nice to have, you really don't need a clutch centering tool as you can use the transmission itself as a clutch centering tool.  See Step 15 in my PDF on replacing the clutch nut O-ring here: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,332.0.html

[tsbt]

I'm following FD's beautifully detailed notes but his muffler is aftermarket and it's a slightly different bike than my K100rs so on certain steps I'm doing workarounds. Got stuck last night trying to unfasten the right side muffler-fastener , What I've noticed with the fastener is there's barely any room to work the nut off because on one side the rod is in the way and on the other, the bike-stand. Should i have a super-snug-thin-fitting ratchet for these circumstances? or did I skip a step? Also having trouble undoing the rear tail light fastener, thought it would be a simple squeeze, or fit-a-driver and *pop* but no luck. Thoughts?  :yes

[mystic red]

Also having trouble undoing the rear tail light fastener, thought it would be a simple squeeze, or fit-a-driver and *pop* but no luck. Thoughts?  :yes

Look inside the bung, under the seat. Are there 2 plastic screw heads? Twist them off by hand.

[tsbt]

Got that part figured out Mystic. To be able to remove the Tail Part I have to disconnect the wiring harness that holds the light. Probably filled with road dirt, but usually these things come apart, this one it tough, I was borderline about to use pliers :hmm:

[frankenduck]

On an ABS I bike you don't need to remove the tail c owl.  Just put the sawhorse through the frame where the battery goes.

[tsbt]

Sweet! Guess I wasn't reading your notes with as much precision as I should have. And if the sawhorse is holding the bike up, I can remove the center stand to get at the right nut that holds the exhaust! Thank you sirs!

[wmax351]

I've got one of the clutch tools, if you want to borrow it. I bought it for the airhead side, but the other side is for k's. Shoot me a PM.

[tsbt]

Have the bike on a metal horse that I bought, running through the center of the frame, says it holds 300lbs, plus a jack under the engine for a bit of stability, the idea of working under a bike that is supported this way makes me a bit nervous. Thinking maybe I need to tie the tail off at the ceiling just to be safe. It's just a tiny bit shaky, is all.

c