Shifting and a heated grip switch question.

[speedy]

While my bike is in storage this season, I decided to do some maintenance/fix some minor issues with my 86' K100RS.  I need some answers as to what I should do this year, just a little confused.

The only difficulty I have with my bike currently is my 1 - 2 shift under "spirited" acceleration.  Under normal driving the shift goes fine.  When I give it more gas unless I give the shift a little more force it will go into neutral sometimes instead of 2nd.  I have no difficulty downshifting, and no other shifts give me issues.  Should I be looking into lubing the clutch splines as well as the final drive splines?  What's the easiest way to access the clutch spline to lube if it's necessary?

Secondly, my heated grip switch seems to be stuck in the off position.  I will not move up or down to engage, no matter how much pressure I apply.  Is a new switch needed?  Where can I find one?

Third, a small annoyance, the gear indicator on the dash does not work.  I'm hoping it's just the contacts.  Is this something I should wait to tackle when I have the bike torn apart?  Or could there be something easier to do for this?

Other than that, the oil/air filter/spark plugs were changed in the middle of last year, so I'll skip those for now.  The battery is getting replaced, are there any more things I can check in the meantime?  Bike has about 59k on it.  I didn't even put 2000 miles on the bike last year because of my Ulcerative Colitis flaring up :(

I can't wait to drive this again!  Thanks for any help!

[Lawrence]

It's a snap to pop the rocker switch out of the holder and check it over.  Do you have a multimeter? If you can't sort it out, new switches are easily found through BMW.  I bought one a few months ago on EBay too. There is no end of tutorials here and on other sites that explain lubing the clutch and final drive splines.  Using Dr. Duck's fine write-up, I did it for the first time recently and it went well.  No surprises or disasterous errors, but it did take me a weekend.  I figure it's better to proceed slowly than to screw the pooch.
You have not provided much background on your bike.  Do you know the mileage and service history? If you have any doubts about the last time the splines were serviced, that would seem to be a good reason to jump right in and do it while the weather doesn't favor riding.

[frankenduck]

Dry splines usually manifest themselves as getting false neutrals when downshifting, like 4->3 or 3->2.  As mentioned above if you don't know the last time it was done then it's a good idea to do it for peace of mind.

Switch rehab: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,336.0.html

Gear position indicator: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,517.0.html

[speedy]

That was easy enough, thank you so much!  I have service history for the last couple years and I'm not seeing it, might as well dive into it.

[Uffda]

Switch rehab: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,336.0.html

I had a similar problem with my handgrip heat switch.  I could only depress it down (50% setting) and not up.  Even tho' I don't need the 100% setting, your link for switch rehab instructions got me going on it.  Pulled the switch out of the mounting pod, did not want to risk pulling the top off, so I just put a little WD40 on the sides of the rocker, moved the rocker a few times and it got loosened up to allow both settings to engage.  Easy-Peasy.  Put it back in the pod and that was that.  Fixed.
Most of your guides come in PDF format, which makes it easy to print, along with the pictures.  The print option on this particular topic did not include the photos so I downloaded them, converted it to PDF and include it here.  Thanks for the advice on this and so many other topics that allows a novice like me to jump in and just do it.

[Uffda]

Unfortunately, I got ambitious and bold, decided to look at the switch for my powered windshield (K75RT), tried the same technique of just spraying in a little WD40 and instead of improving, it got worse.  So, I went ahead and pried off the rocker.  Apparently not careful enough.  I captured the hollow phallus, but the spring(s) are nowhere to be found.  I have two questions and one inquiry:
1.  Does the missing spring and the hollow phallus go into the middle protrusion on the rocker?
2.  Is there another spring in this switch?  There is another hole on the end of the switch and the switch always seemed to have a spring return to neutral.  If so, I assume I am looking for a replacement of that spring too.  And, if so, is there another hollow phallus for that spring, too?
Inquiry - anyone have either of these springs laying around?  I can't find a narrow enough replacement at my ACE hardware store.

[frankenduck]

The spring in the phallus is the spring that returns it to the neutral position.  Yes, the spring and phallus go into the little tube in the bottom of the rocker.

[Uffda]

Thanks for the quick reply.   :2thumbup:
One more attempt in the morning to find the damn spring.  Or when the dealer opens back up on Tuesday, I hope they stock a replacement spring.

[Scott_]

Thanks for the quick reply.   :2thumbup:
One more attempt in the morning to find the damn spring.  Or when the dealer opens back up on Tuesday, I hope they stock a replacement spring.

Are you sure the spring came out in the first place? hinting at the idea that maybe the previous owner tried to repair this and lost the spring?

You'll be lucky if the dealer stocks the whole switch, I wouldn't count on the spring.

This is the reason to take the switch apart inside a shoebox, or a ziplock bag to catch these loose flying parts.

[mystic red]

Run a cheap Harbor Freight magnet around your work area. You might get lucky.

[wmax351]

Run a cheap Harbor Freight magnet around your work area. You might get lucky.

Wrap it in a plastic bag first. Makes it much easier to keep the crap off of it, and clean it later.

[Uffda]

Run a cheap Harbor Freight magnet around your work area. You might get lucky.

Wrap it in a plastic bag first. Makes it much easier to keep the crap off of it, and clean it later.

Two good suggestions.  Had not thought of the magnet in a bag trick.  Thanks.
Regarding the suggestion to have first encased the assembled part in a baggy before disassembly, I thought of that afterwards, too.  I guess that's where the DAMHIK phrase finds it's roots.  I thought I had it covered with the large towel, which did catch the little hollow phallus, but somehow the spring seems to have eluded me.  I may take off the tupperware to see if it somehow lodged down there somehow.
Anyway, the good news is that comparing the dimensions of the little piece I still have and comparing it to a blown up picture from Frankenduck's tutorial, I have guesstimated it to be .088" x .69", .01" wire size.  Found a pack of 10 on Amazon for $10 that are .75" long.  Figure I can snip off the little extra length, or just have a little more compression.  If the replacement spring works okay, that means I will probably never lose that size spring again and will have 8 or 9 spares which is just fine with me.