Just for Ch1ts and Grins; the ShogyGrid K1100 Frankin-tranny

[Shoganai]

The History…

In 2006 I stripped the input shaft on my 1993 K1100RS on my way to
Alaska. After I replaced the tranny in a 10 day break down stay in
Alberta, I sent the old tranny back home.


The story starts here >>>
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142933&page=39











http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2917817&postcount=1047




Off the Grid gave me the tranny out of his K1100LT that has a stripped
2nd gear for the cost of shipping.


The Plan…
Set up a place in the basement where I can take the good input shaft
out of the LT tranny and rebuild mine.


Liabilities…
I’ve never done this before.
I can't spell worth a shit.
Have left / right confusion
Have mildly Autistic behaviors
And don't have a dick

Assets…
I have access to BMW specials tools.
BMW Tech Manuel
Clymer Manuel
I’m meticulous and methodical.
I have Steve to help me.
I can count on you to find the funny.

The Goal…
Have fun learning while wrenching.



Pics and story to follow here. It will be a S-L-O-W process as I’m
working 40-60 hours a week, painting / decorating our new home, we'll
be building a deck this summer and planting a new landscape.

I look forward to any good technical advice you have to offer
including, “WTF are you thinking?!”

[Shoganai]

So the first thing I did was RTFM.

Then I started with trying to generate a list of parts I'll need.










I hope to also replace the stripped 2nd gear on the donor tranny just
to see if I can do it.

I know I need a micrometer, but I don't know which one would be the
best for this project.


This may very well be the only, fully documented K1100RS tranny
rebuild on the web.
I've been looking for over a year for a Documentory / how to
step-by-step and can't find even a whiff of one.


Mine will be more like a DocuDrama as it will have lots of cursing.




throwing
of hissy-fits  and
tools
back-peddling ie.
WTF is this part doing outside that of part


and a metric ton of









You in the audience will be






And in the end we'll all

And I'll be doing this

[Shoganai]

I scrounged some lumber from the trash bins at a construction site
(with permision)
I still had to buy 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood and some deck screws.

And built  two work benches.

I found this handy "how to" guide
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html

As Mick would say, "I am in the basement, Looking for the truth."

Goddess in the Doorway
I LOVE this song!!!


http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/mickjagger/goddessinthedoorway.html

First table finished.



Second bench done.



Project notebook and what I shipped back from Alberta in 2006.







Spline damage.






2006 I blew this tranny on my way to Alaska.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142933&page=36

I was broke down 10 days, got a replacement shipped in, traded them
out and continued on with my trip.

Ok, I did this today.

I needed to make a mount for the tranny kinda like this, but cheaper.



Some stuff.



The pattern off the tranny.





Test fit.



U-bolt holes drilled.



Not without a "bit" of drama.



Assembly.













Nothing fancy, but I believe it will work.

Stuff that fell out of the box when I unpacked the tranny.



I think everything is here.

Oooooo Shinny.







This will take months as time premits.

[Shoganai]

Well life, time and money all got in the way but thanks to my loving
husband who bought me the tools I needed for the project it's back on.

He got me these great tools for Christmas.



I bought this.



And together with these and a few of their friends...



Lets tear this transmission apart.

[Shoganai]

First to work on the cover.

Since this Transmission is already been opened up, the processes will
not follow the step by step from the manuals.

So I start with removing the input shaft roller bearing race and oil seal.







I didn't know how to hold it still and came up with this.





Heat to 100 degrees c. / 212 degrees F.



While I was heating it up the bearing puller became lose and I had to
cinch it up to almost the max expansion to re-seat it.

Pop! It went very smoothly.





The seal was so gummy from the heat I just peeled it out.

All the parts I'll need to order go in baggies like this.

[Shoganai]

Next remove the detent arm and spring by removing the circlip.





Next drive out this plug and save it. It will be driven back in after
the cover is reinstalled and will be needed to ensure the detent arm
is in the right position.
(It's the little one in the back)



The one in the front here.





Again, I needed it held still.

[Shoganai]

I removed the detent bolt.



But the detent ball and spring had alreadly fallen out, so I bagged
them all together.

Then to remove the oil seal cover.







I didn't have to, I just wanted to see what was behind it.

[Shoganai]

Here's a pic of the detent bolt, spring and ball.



I removed the last of the two shafts for the gearshift forks. They look good.



And the last of three shift forks, and their gear pin sleeves.



Then I closely inspect the shift forks for wear or damage.

A little wear on the left.


















To my untrained eye, I think these look REAL good. 181,000 miles and
they look new.

This is a badly damaged shift fork from OfftheGrids bike.

[Shoganai]

I then lift out the gear selector drum.



Ok, I'm here now.

At 0900 is the input shaft, at noon is intermediate shaft and at 1400
is the output shaft.



.

[Shoganai]

Before applying heat to the seals to pull the gears shafts out I need
to remove the gear position switch.  (in the center here)



That's a 7mm head there and as soon as I put a socket on it the old
plastic crumbled.



I used this on the right side.



Ok, it's off.



Then remove the housing grommet.



Push the grommet down the wire and over and off the connector at the end.




Then I pulled the connector back up through the hold in the housing
and removed the whole thing.



It will need replacing.




See those tiny little pins, they have to be removed first. I very
carefully removed them using hemostats and behind them were three tiny
little springs. I used a tiny magnet to extract them from the holes.

ONLY then can I safely remove the the rotor cap by lifting at the
small bar in the middle.

[Shoganai]

A word about manuals: I'm using both the BMW Service Manual and the Clymer.

The Clymer NEVER says anything about the NEED to apply 100c to the
seats of these shafts the release them. It just says they need to be
removed as a unit, all together.

The Service manual does give that critical information and doesn't say
the MUST be removed as unit.

Again with the heat.

The input shaft falls out gently in my hand.



Then the other two do the same.



I'm setting them aside for now and will keep working on the case.

[Shoganai]

I remove the breather cap with my fingers.



Then I need to drive this vent shaft from the inside out.



I drop a bolt through it and using a punch and hammer it pushes out easily.



I then remove the circlip shown here.




Back to the manuals.
Clymer says: See line #17



And points to the places it wants me to look.



Nope, not here.



Nope, not here either.



I find one under here, but I know that's not it.





Well the pawl had to come off anyway.




OK...RTFM girl. *flip, flip, flip* --read-- *flip, flip* --read....read--






Here ya go, I gotz a flip for ya! :flip

I'll be damned if there was NO SUCH circlip securing the roller :becca
I wasted a 1/2 hour looking it.

Ok, I'm pretty darn sure that's the case and wrap the shaft with
leather and wiggle it out.






I stopped here.



It's a 5mm hex head. The plain allen fits it snuggly but I can't turn
it. The one seen here says it's a 5mm but fits it so loosly I fear
I'll strip the head.
(feels a 1/2 size too small)

[DRxBMW]

The History…

In 2006 I stripped the input shaft on my 1993 K1100RS on my way to
Alaska. After I replaced the tranny in a 10 day break down stay in
Alberta, I sent the old tranny back home.

I look forward to any good technical advice you have to offer
including, “WTF are you thinking?!”

Wow, tremendous amount of work and effort on your part.   :2thumbup:

Congrats, most riders would have parted the bike out, especially at the 160K mileage marker.

Out of curiosity, was the tranny shimmed correctly ?  Or were you clueless if it was or wasn't ?  Any of the shifting forKs bent ?

Tom Cutter relayed that most of the Gertag tranny failures on our beloved K's are from improper shimming. Factory fu*K up, enough said.

[Shoganai]

The shift forks were like brand new. Everything in the transmission looks in great shape. There is no gear wear at all.
the only thing that's wrong is the input shaft splins.

Out of curiosity, was the tranny shimmed correctly ?  Or were you clueless if it was or wasn't ?  Any of the shifting forKs bent ?

[Shoganai]

So there's this hex head bolt secured with locktite deep in the case. (see last pic) A standard 5mm allen (Craftsman) fits very well, but lacks enough ass to loosen it.
A long T-handle 5 mm (Shades) reaches it well, but is so sloppy I feel like it's going to round off in the bolt.
Another T-handle 5mm (Husky) fits snuggly but is short.

I keep thinking.'what the hell, they're all marked 5mm but the ONE I want to use that is long enough just does not fit.
I check them.


*Chraftsman*


*Shades*


*Husky*



Well, Damn! That's strange...or is it? :dunno

[DRxBMW]

So there's this hex head bolt secured with locktite deep in the case. (see last pic) A standard 5mm allen (Craftsman) fits very well, but lacks enough ass to loosen it.
A long T-handle 5 mm (Shades) reaches it well, but is so sloppy I feel like it's going to round off in the bolt.
Another T-handle 5mm (Husky) fits snuggly but is short.

I keep thinking.'what the hell, they're all marked 5mm but the ONE I want to use that is long enough just does not fit.
I check them.

All Allen wrench's wear slightly from use, especially your fav T handle.

Is there room for a Allen socket with an extension bar for a ratchet or T handle for length access ?  How about a longer length Allen socket instead ?

[Shoganai]

So I cleaned them as instructed.




This fell off something.






Next, a close inspection for ware.

This is the damaged input shaft.







I wonder what these marks are used for?



To my untrained ete the rest of the shaft looks good.









I don't yet know what these marks are for.









Is that dark line normal?

[Shoganai]

Next the intermediate shaft.






The clean notches on the large gear seem like they belong there. The ware on the small gear does not.





The small gear also shows what I believe is either polishing ware or mild abrasion type ware.



The dogs look good.





Again with the abrasive ware.





















That I belive is a normal ware pattern.

[Shoganai]

Next, the output shaft.















Ok, I need a nap, then cook supper then back to this later.

[CRASH]

So far a post full of win!  Love your attitude ... you really can do anything if you just try.  :2thumbup:

Will wait for more 

[billday]

Thanks for all the clear, detailed, focused pictures.

I'm hoping to get through life without ever dismantling a transmission. I appreciate your giving us all a good gander!

[Rick G]

Like you say Gwen apart from the clutch shaft it's in good condition.
You ask about the dark line that is where the seal runs and I use a green nylon pot scruber to remove it. Run your fingernail across the line after cleaning and if there is any irregularity you will feel it.
Those getrag trannys are amazing I had a K100 with 300000km on it and it was in a similar condition and considering how they clunk and grind they are absolutely terrific.
The bearings are very common sizes and available from most bearing suppliers at a very much lower cost than you mention earlier. I paid only $70AUD for all 6 bearings and the seals.
Keep going you are doing a great job of documentation on it.

[Shoganai]

Thank you.

Tonight I hope to start taking apart the input shaft.  :eek2:

[Shoganai]

Ok, here I am.

Pop on some tunes.



Per instructions I rolled all the bearings in my hands. (1-6)
Bearing # 4 on the intermediate shaft has a district gravely feeling and sound. Also if I spin them quickly and release them only #4 keeps spinning. The rest stopped as soon I released them. My guess it's bad.



More ways than one...so I start with the one on the left.



I know it's not worth saving but I want to practice good technique, so I wrap it in a bit of leather.









There's the circlip I need to remove and you can see the circular spring in the middle.





Now, see that arrow, it's pointing to an unspecified 'pressure device' upon reading in the Clymer it calls it a 'suitable socket' that act as a drift.



Like this.



But there is NO WAY I'm gonna just my nice new sockets!
So I proceed to method #2.

Note the FLAT application of pressure vs. the pointy application  of pressure using method #1.



It was then I was stopped in my tracks! The puller I have is not long enough to grab where I need, which is below the spring.

[Shoganai]

Today was very rewarding!

I got a 6" two arm puller and attached it as directed.

However, there wasn't much of a bite.





So I did this to help it stay in place.



Then I put it in the press.









That went VERY well!





Next remove the other tapered roller bearing.

I was a little concerned I might grab the shim, so I paid close attention to what I was grabbing.







I think it all went very well, indeed.

Now to inspect the parts.









Is this a shim? I think so but it's real snuggly with the shaft, so I didn't take it off.








I wonder if is is possible to order just the shaft w/o anything on it?