Author Topic: 1985 K100 rehab  (Read 9766 times)

Offline rawhites

  • Curious
  • Posts: 3
1985 K100 rehab
« on: May 05, 2025, 09:08:40 AM »
Hi all - new member here. Last year I had my dad's old 1985 K100 Basic shipped to me as a rehabilitation project (the bike I rode occasionally as a teen). Only has <4k miles, but after sitting for over 30 years, it came with some issues lol. I made good progress - replacing the tires, replacing the fuel & brake lines, getting the front brakes working again, greasing the driveshaft splines, restoring the gas tank that was full of rotten rubber, etc - but I'm far from done.

Two things I'm working on now:

1) The rear brake. Unfortunately the old 13mm master cylinder was locked up with corrosion, so I can't rebuild it. And there are no replacements available out there. So under some guidance, I swapped in a 16mm version from EME....but it seems like the push rod (from the old 13mm) isn't engaging the plunger on the 16mm? I have to push the brake pedal waaay down to activate the brake, which clearly isn't right. And it seems I can't screw in the push rod far enough to make for a normal brake pedal stroke. Not sure if this is a simple fix with replacing the push rod, or if I'm mistaken and the 16mm actually is not a workable replacement for the 13mm on this bike.

2) Steering head bearings. Got the old races out, got the lower bearing off the stem....so seems like the hardest part is behind me! But when I pounded in the new races, using a race driver from EME, the lower race is seated about 3 or 4mm recessed into the tube. I assume that's normal, since it's seated on the shoulder inside the tube and it's the same dimensions as the old race. Or do I need to extract it again and then re-seat flush with the tube bottom?

And I would love to hear any advice for must-do things before I try to fire this baby up. For instance, I did not get into the oil/water pump...but I will if that's likely to be a problem after 30 years of sitting.

Thanks for any help!

Rob
  • Potomac, MD
  • 1985 K100

Offline natalena

  • ^ SuperNatural Motobricker
  • Posts: 742
Re: 1985 K100 rehab
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2025, 04:48:58 PM »
Good luck and have fun with getting the brick back to road worthiness. Kinda wish I was still in Waldorf to give you a hand, but honestly, don't miss the traffic.
A Clymer service manual is awesome.
I'd change out fluids, check on cracked/rotted rubber parts, and fire her up. There may be a lot fewer things to "fix" if your intent is to ride like the wind. Little bits will come up that don't effect use, but are irritating .. depends on your patience and tolerance levels.
Cheers
*pics are always nice 😀
  • MST
  • 1987 K75s #0919, '05 Sportster 1200C, '21 ARGO 8x8, '24 KLR650
"Hard to beat a 10x beaver, 'specially if you're gonna work it."

Offline rawhites

  • Curious
  • Posts: 3
Re: 1985 K100 rehab
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2025, 09:58:01 PM »
Thanks for the encouragement! Just need to get those bearings fixed - the grease in there had turned to tacky glue so I could barely turn the handlebars! - and get brakes in the back, and then I plan to crank it!

Definitely would love an extra set of eyes, if there's anyone in the MD area :)

Picture attached of that oddly recessed lower race....


* Bottom race.jpg (24.72 kB . 432x576 - viewed 568 times)
  • Potomac, MD
  • 1985 K100

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11299
Re: 1985 K100 rehab
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2025, 08:57:41 AM »
Is it an OEM bearing?
Here's its position in Chris Harris's tutorial. The second part of his installation video is attached.



  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline rawhites

  • Curious
  • Posts: 3
Re: 1985 K100 rehab
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2025, 09:28:33 AM »
Ah, brilliant! Thanks for catching that. I had watched the video but then was stuck on the Clymer's detail about being flush with the tube.
Looks like I'm good to go.

Thanks again!

Rob
  • Potomac, MD
  • 1985 K100

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