This is what I did to attach the broken radiator shroud mounting tab. Pretty much the same as what sooprvylyn said, except I used fiberglass matte and epoxy. I put it on yesterday and tested it by removing it and installing it a few times. It looks super solid, lot more so than the original.
The problem with this OEM piece is that it's basically a hollow part with two feet that are molded to the back of the shroud. Those two feet are weak where they meet the shroud and break off, and being +25 years old doesn't help.
So the solution is to fill in that hollow part with epoxy putty give it a solid base to attach the shroud, and then add a fiberglass matte floor to the shroud. When you saturate the matte with liquid epoxy and press the part in place, the part sinks in to the matte. You can then add some epoxy around the base of the part to give it some extra bonding surface. I added some fiberglass cloth around two sides of the base, too, just for good measure.
Materials:
* Two part epoxy putty, I used the West Marine stuff because a neighbor had some lying around.
* Two part JB Weld plastic epoxy, about $10
* Small square of fiberglass matte, about 1/2 inch larger than the base of the part.
* Two small pieces of fiberglass cloth for the corners where the base of the part meet the shroud surface.
Instructions:
1) Mix a small amout of epoxy putty.
2) Mix a very small amount of the JB weld plastic epoxy and add a thin coat to the inside surface of the hollow part.
3) Fill in the hollow section of the part with the putty and wait for it to set. This took about 1 hour for the West Marine stuff.
4) Sand the putty down so it's on the same plane as the two feet of the part. This will give you a solid base to glue to the shroud surface. Sand off any excess at the sides. You want to part to look the same as the original part, except with the hollow section filled in with putty.
5) Mark the position where the part will attach.
6) Lay out a square of fiberglass matte where the part will attach. The matte should be about 10mm larger than the base of the part.
7) Saturate the matte with JB weld epoxy.
8) Press the part in place.
9) Lay down two very small rectangles of fiberglass cloth on the left and right side of the part and press them into the corners where the base of the part meets the fiberglass matte.
9) Saturate the cloth and the outside corners where the base meets the fiberglass matte.
10) Press firmly into place and clamp.
11) Wait for it to cure. The JB weld stuff should cure quickly but I left it overnight.
12) Clean it up with a dremel with a sanding drum to get rid of any cloth or matte strand sticking up anywhere.
13) Install and ride.
This is what it looks like before I cleaned it up with the dremel.
BTW the K75 I bought from Gary Weaver (RIP) in 2013 had the drill-though-the-outside-of-the-shroud fix. It looks crap and I think the above fix might even be stronger. This is a better alternative, IMO.
