WTB K75 in good condition

[Tanton37]

Looking to buy a K75 in good condition not too far from Ottawa Canada.
Thanks David

[Past-my-Prime]

In spring / summer, there’s usually about 4-5 of them for sale around southern Ontario, ranging from $3,000-$4,500 CDN. Depending on which model you want, of course, it may take a bit.
Do you know what model you are looking for? Is it to ride, or for a project to customize?

[Tanton37]

I would prefer an RS as I like the smaller fairing style and the bike would definitely be kept stock. Do you know which years offered the RS version?
Thanks David

[Past-my-Prime]

Well I’m sure someone more knowledgeable will answer, but I have not heard of K75 RS. There’s the RT, or the S, or possibly just K75. RT is nice for long roads, good protection and rarely warm enough in Canada for the additional heat to be a problem. More of a feature most of the time. K75 RT that I ride is plenty fast enough and possibly a bit more maneuverable and smoother that’s the K100 I also tried.
I found it sporty enough in the turns but was moving from a Honda 450 so probably was happy with the upgrade!

[Laitch]

Well I’m sure someone more knowledgeable will answer, but I have not heard of K75 RS. There’s the RT, or the S, or possibly just K75.

That's the lineup, all right.

K75


K75RT


K75S

[frankenduck]

S is the best.

(Red ones are fastest.)

[Tanton37]

I wouldn't say no to any of these at the right price but yes my preference would be for an S model. Thanks for the clarification.

[natalena]

If you acquire an S, try to get the belly pan/mounts, and the rear cowling luggage rack. A bonus would be finding one with a YSS or other shock upgrade. Rear drive splines in good condition is a must. Good luck,  Cheers

[Tanton37]

Currently scoping out an 86 S in beautiful condition but 130,000 km. which the seller tells me is nothing to worry about. Should I ask for a compression test and what should the numbers be? I will insist on rear spline inspection and make sure to check fuel tank weak points and signs of leakage at rear main and water pump seal and free movement of fan....all according to my research so far. Anything else?

[Laitch]

Currently scoping out an 86 S in beautiful condition but 130,000 km. which the seller tells me is nothing to worry about.

At least the seller didn't say, Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

If you get to see the driveshaft and rear drive splines, that will be a rare accommodation indeed. Make several photos of the shaft splines—some straight-on and some looking slightly downward on them—with good lighting and resolution—then post them here. If you can see clearly into the tank, inspect it for amber discoloration of its floor and walls indicating fuel separation from old fuel in the left tank during the course of its use. The weep hole under transmission and the one under the oil/coolant pump should be checked for leakage.

A Brick with that many klicks on it has been run sufficiently to keep it in reasonably good condition. 

[frankenduck]

I wouldn't worry about a compression test.

[natalena]

Currently scoping out an 86 S in beautiful condition but 130,000 km.

That's about the same as the 80,000+ miles on my 87, which runs fantastic with general maintenance and corn-free gas. Sourcing parts from EME, Motobins or Beemer Boneyard is relatively easy. * I have found parts at Bob's and Mortons BMW too.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

If it starts and runs with no smoke after a minute of idling I wouldn't think twice about the compression.  These engines will run literally hundreds of thousands of miles. 

Yes, check inside the tank, that is a very common problem point.  A clean tank is a great sign.  Check the weep hole at the bottom of the clutch housing for any sign of oil.  Check the shifter for free play, normal play at the end of the shifter when it's in neutral is about 2cm, significantly more than that may indicate a loose grub screw in the transmission that can be an all day job to correct.

With the bike on the center stand, grab the wheels at 9 and 3 o'clock and give them a shake.  There should be no play if the wheel bearings are good.  Check the shaft of the rear shock for any oil that would indicate a worn shock.  With the front wheel off the ground, gently push the handle bars from side to side feeling for any notchiness. 

The bike has enough mileage that the rear splines could be worn through poor maintenance.  The condition of the bike as a whole might tell how it was cared for, or maybe not.  If you are not sure, you might offer the seller a non-refundable cash deposit to be applied to the price of the bike to inspect the drive shaft splines.  The understanding is that if they are in good condition you will purchase the bike.  If not, the seller can keep the cash as payment for opening up the swing arm to inspect the drive shaft.

This is probably the most important part of the bike's inspection since worn splines can be the most costly repair to be made on a used bike.  Below are a couple photos of what good splines look like on a bike with 90,000 miles.  Note how wide and flat the tops of the splines are.  As they wear, the tops will get narrower until the entire spline is gone.


DSCN3341.JPG (22.8 kB . 609x576 - viewed 436 times)
DSCN3347.JPG (40.19 kB . 607x576 - viewed 436 times)
DSCN3349.JPG (38.13 kB . 618x576 - viewed 449 times)

Normally, it is only the splines at the final drive end of the drive shaft that wear.  At the connection to the transmission, the splines are stationary, and as a result, there is very little wear, if any.

[Tanton37]

Hey Gryphon....you are Mighty indeed!! Thanks for the wealth of information. Cheers

[frankenduck]

Don't worry about the final drive input splines. The drive shaft splines are softer and wear first.



Link to more info about splines: Splientology

[Altosax]

Still looking? I have a 86 K75C in Vermont-16,600mi   immaculate $4500 US