Author Topic: Winter fuel question  (Read 9977 times)

Offline Lbxpdx

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 100
Winter fuel question
« on: November 03, 2024, 06:28:03 PM »
On my old airheads I always filled up the tank with non ethanol during the winter, since they are steel.  With an aluminum tank, do you suggest empty or filled?  I have a spare parts bike that I was going to work on over the winter and was thinking since it is an aluminum tank that leaving it empty over the winter is fine. 

What say ye?
  • Portland
  • 1994 K75S, 1992 K75RT, 1972 R60/5 & 1977 R100S

Offline natalena

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  • Posts: 742
Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2024, 12:00:10 AM »
Since the brick isn't ridden in winter much, it's always full non-ethanol 91, with a splash of Sta-bil. I usually run it to operating temps once or twice before getting out in spring. Cheers.
Ps, I like full tanks to keep everything submerged.
  • MST
  • 1987 K75s #0919, '05 Sportster 1200C, '21 ARGO 8x8, '24 KLR650
"Hard to beat a 10x beaver, 'specially if you're gonna work it."

Offline Chaos

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2024, 12:47:54 PM »
Steel rusts, aluminum corrodes.  Very bottom corner of K bike tanks is were the water collects and tends to corrode out, common on bikes that sit for a long time.
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline Laitch

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2024, 01:08:14 PM »
I've stored my Brick six months a year for the last 12 years and 70K miles with a full tank of fresh E10 conditioned with Stabil. People could eat off the floor of that fuel tank, it's so clean—one person at a time, of course. The engine starts right up in the spring and I ride off dedicated to use up that tankful as mindfully as possible.
:laughing4-giggles:
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline frankenduck

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2024, 02:12:56 PM »
Steel rusts, aluminum corrodes.

Rust is corrosion.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
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Offline Laitch

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2024, 02:25:09 PM »
Fish got to swim; birds got to fly.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Chaos

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2024, 02:26:51 PM »
But is corrosion rust??
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline frankenduck

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2024, 02:40:58 PM »
Rust is iron oxide corrosion. Aluminum alloys containing no Fe do not rust.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline Laitch

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #8 on: November 04, 2024, 02:57:59 PM »
But is corrosion rust??
Has Google broken? Will the mechanic's shade tree become the Bodhi of truth here?   :laughing4-giggles:
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Kaos

  • Vlad the Extractor
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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #9 on: November 04, 2024, 03:53:24 PM »
Has Google broken? Will the mechanic's shade tree become the Bodhi of truth here?   :laughing4-giggles:

And supposedly i am the one that brings Kaos.
Anywho. additive, full tank (low lead) and if you can, or just simply start it once in a while. Could easily do a month or so without starting.
Shake it, stir it, and or throw some screws in your tank (grandpa's tip) if you do see corrosion forming.
[fun fact] E10 could possibly start to deter after 2 within 3 months. Its not an overnight process.
BUT if its corrosion you're worried about, remove the tank drain it, dry it and use a tank liner.

or. just start it every now and then. ride it down the street when its an option. Then it shouldnt be a big issue. and cover your bike, it helps.
  • Basically Everywhere
  • 1988 K100 RT; 1988 K100 LT; 1989 K 100 LS
"When Kaos reigns, bolts shall break" - Vlad the extractor, 2024

Offline Chaos

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2024, 04:06:12 PM »
Or buy a Ural and ride all winter
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2024, 04:07:39 PM »
ummm...

How did you get off the bike to take the picture without leaving any footprints in the snow???
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Laitch

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #12 on: November 05, 2024, 06:37:44 PM »
[fun fact] E10 could possibly start to deter after 2 within 3 months. Its not an overnight process.
BUT if its corrosion you're worried about, remove the tank drain it, dry it and use a tank liner.
or. just start it every now and then. ride it down the street when its an option. Then it shouldnt be a big issue. and cover your bike, it helps.
STA-BIL®-conditioned fuel won't separate for six months, at least, so the start of corrosion is defeated. Starting a Brick only now and then when it's idle just creates condensation in the crankcase, evocative odors, and pleasant memories but that's all it does. To place a battery that's in good condition into storage, take a farewell ride on the Brick then disconnect the ground strap from the transmission. I found covering the Brick when it's in storage invites mice habitation. I just plug the exhaust with a rubber stopper; mice can't enter the air snorkel because it's screened, so they move somewhere else. Sometimes the mice trek up the road to nest in our attic and have a once-in-a-lifetime feast on the homemade peanut butter I put in our mousetraps.
Otherwise, I'm 100% in agreement with Kaos.  4265249878
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Bmwsquirl

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2024, 05:07:32 PM »
  • garage
  • 1995 k75rt,1974 r90/6,2020 mg v85tt

Offline rbm

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2024, 08:13:56 AM »
I store my K-bike with the tank off, empty of fuel on a shelf.  I first run the engine with gas conditioned with Ethanol Shield to be sure that the petrol-delivery system on the bike is protected over the winter.  Ethanol Shield is a far superior product to Sta-bil. Sta-bil will not absorb water in the gas but Ethanol Shield will.
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Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline frankenduck

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2024, 11:56:19 AM »
It also helps to have a dehumidifier in your garage. I do and it has made a world of difference.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline K1300S

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #16 on: November 10, 2024, 12:29:55 PM »
STA-BIL®-conditioned fuel won't separate for six months, at least, so the start of corrosion is defeated. Starting a Brick only now and then when it's idle just creates condensation in the crankcase, evocative odors, and pleasant memories but that's all it does. To place a battery that's in good condition into storage, take a farewell ride on the Brick then disconnect the ground strap from the transmission. I found covering the Brick when it's in storage invites mice habitation. I just plug the exhaust with a rubber stopper; mice can't enter the air snorkel because it's screened, so they move somewhere else. Sometimes the mice trek up the road to nest in our attic and have a once-in-a-lifetime feast on the homemade peanut butter I put in our mousetraps.
Otherwise, I'm 100% in agreement with Kaos.  4265249878

what Laitch said.  this is the right answer.  fill the tank to keep the moisture in the air from messing with metal parts, add stabil, run it for a few minutes to circulate the stabil infused gas through the system and leave it alone until spring.  take battery out or leave it on a good maintainer.  do not start it until spring, or whenever you ride it next.  I have left bikes for well over a year with this prep and they start right up, with no corrosion issues in the tanks.
Project Thread "K75s Midlife Refresh"
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7810.0.html

Offline Chaos

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #17 on: November 10, 2024, 02:40:41 PM »
If you do start it up, take it out for a nice long run to get all the temps up. Around here there’s usually a day in January where it is 50 or 60 and it’s nice to blow all the cobwebs off.
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Winter fuel question
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2024, 01:58:58 PM »
Dehumidifiers don't work for 5 months of the year around these parts.  Heck, the one in our basement ices up from November to March.  If I had one in the garage it would be frozen from mid-September to mid-May.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

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