1995 K75 Rehabilitation

[k-roc]

Hi, I have been slowly working through a few things on a new to me 1995 BMW K75 RT and sincerely appreciate all the advice I have received.  I have installed all new rubber connectors from the engine to the throttle body and to the air accumulator.  I had the bike overheat with coolant blowing out the reserve tank as I was fiddling with synching the throttle bodies, etc.  Prior to doing this I did note that one or more of the hoses had collapsed.  Took off the radiator and flushed it and also used the battery from the bike to test the fan.  It runs fine without any unusual squealing noises, etc.  I cleaned and used dielectric grease on the temperature sensor connector just behind the radiator and towards the front left side of the top of the engine. 

I had queried Motobrick and came across the following post and thread: https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6702.0.  Before adding coolant and with the gas tank off I took the cover off the relay box and removed the bolt that secures the temperature sending unit relay and disconnected it to reveal the connections that the unit plugs into.  I jumped A2 to 15 connectors and the fan ran fine.  I also jumped A3 to ground and the temp light came on.  However, when I grounded Pin E but the fan did not start and the warning light didn't come on.  Note for all of this the bike wasn't running but I had the ignition key turned to the on position.   I reviewed the thread again and noted that it appears that the bike needs to be running.  Is it possible to have the gas tank installed while still maintaining access to the temperature switching unit, and can I have the temperature sending unit disconnected so that I can connect a wire to pin E and ground it to test the temperature relay/sensor.  Note by doing this, is it just testing the functionality of the relay itself or also the temperature sensor?  If this doesn't test the functionality of the temperature sensor is there a way of testing it on the bike or do I need to purchase a new sensor and install it?

Now reviewing the thread again I noted the comment that it looks like you can remove the screw keep the relay sections connected and then probe the relay from the bottom via the exposed connectors.  If I do this can I do the E to ground test with just bike key in the on position or does the bike actually need to be running?

I then re-installed the radiator and placed the gas tank and reconnected the fuel lines before adding new BMW antifreeze with a 60% water/40% coolant mix (the coolant was not pre-diluted).  I started the bike and followed the instructions to burp the coolant system.  Everything seemed to function fine and I got the bubbles out, etc.  The bike ran for about 15-20 minutes or so (temperatures outside were maybe 10-15 Celsius/50-59 F).  The fan didn't cut in and the temperature warning light didn't come on.  I didn't run it further to see if the fan eventually would come on as the bike was stationary and I didn't want it to overheat again. 

I noted in the thread I mentioned above also mentioned installing a fan over-ride switch to the bike.  I have a few options for a contura type switch in our local city Red Deer (https://turplebros.org/items/itemid/22933209/SEA-DOG-Illuminating-Contura-Switches-Illuminated-Rocker-Switch-710535/, https://kohen.ca/product/00/v2d1s00b/Contura-II-On-Off-SPST (note they have the cover available separately, https://kohen.ca/product/00/vvazc/Contura-II-Hard-Black-No-Lens, and both appear to be in stock).  Would these be acceptable as switches?  Also there was mention of the posi-tap tap connectors that can be used to tie into the one wire for pin E to wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  Where do I tie into the wire for Pin E?  Is it via the wires coming out the bottom section of the temperature sending unit relay socket?  Things seem to be a bit tight here or do you tie into a portion of this wire outside of the relay box?  It doesn't look like I have any local suppliers in Red Deer that have the posi-tap tap connectors, but Amazon delivers within a day or so.  What gauge is the wire from the E connector?  It appears from the thread comments that this wire is the purple green wire.

Are there any other suggested options versus the posi-tap tap connectors?  I noted the Wirefy T tap connectors https://www.amazon.ca/Electrical-Connectors-Insulated-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B077YB123S/ref=sxin_16_sbv_search_btf?content-id=amzn1.sym.8d483e07-327c-4aac-8788-cd60359f3dcb%3Aamzn1.sym.8d483e07-327c-4aac-8788-cd60359f3dcb&crid=1H5Y3N62SXUOI&cv_ct_cx=posi-tap%2Bconnectors&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vj3Yv3HAjcY2Rs69642WDg.yvo7mDCaQ0SrqKL1023gymUbpVunK5UAL1aoMuFZtt4&dib_tag=se&keywords=posi-tap%2Bconnectors&pd_rd_i=B077YB123S&pd_rd_r=145a2242-09f0-4b35-8fdd-afa309ba45f6&pd_rd_w=I7NBj&pd_rd_wg=AOCg8&pf_rd_p=8d483e07-327c-4aac-8788-cd60359f3dcb&pf_rd_r=3F35WVCTQH4ANSZSTBH5&qid=1718283563&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=posi-tap%2B%2Cautomotive%2C126&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776&th=1. 

We have Princess auto (Canadian version of Harbor Master) and they have these, but it looks like the wire that goes to the switch would need a flat blade connector attached that would then fit into the connector slot on the t-tap wire connector.

Any thoughts or advice would be sincerely appreciated.  Installing the over-ride switch would provide peace-of-mind and I also have an empty port on the rubber switch pad on the handle bars. I will also order the temperature sensor to ensure this isn't an issue if the E to ground test indicated in the thread does test its functionality.

Sincerely,

Kelly

[frankenduck]

Did you ground Pin E with the thermo relay installed?

[k-roc]

Did you ground Pin E with the thermo relay installed?

No.  I thought one had to disconnect the top portion of the relay from the bottom portion to access the slots for the wires that eventually go to the fan, etc.  I also looked at the bike before going to work this morning and it was quite clear that it would be difficult to access the relay and connectors with the gas tank on the bike and it running.  So do you ground the pin e with the relay fully connected to the bottom portion and by turning it upside down or at least by turning it on its side and then accessing the back portion of the appropriate connection in teh smaller section of the overall relay assembly?  Also I assume you do this with the key turned to the on position so everything is energized.

I also noted an earlier question but it seems to have disappeared.  I did fully pull apart the radiator cap assembling and the inside components.  Quite frankly it looked fairly clean versus some of the other posts that mention the brass (looks like brass) screen was clogged with deposits, etc.  I cleaned and flushed the cap and the spring activated valve seemed to work fine.  I cleaned the two gaskets.  They both looked in very good shape with no tears or holes.  I soaked them in protectant overnight and then wiped them cleaned and reinstalled the cap after adding coolant and burping the radiator while the bike was running.  I did price out a new cap from a BMW dealer in Edmonton, but it actually comes in three separate components and the total cost would have been $80 Canadian and it would have to come from Germany. 

I need to order a fuse assembly cover for the fuse box on the left side of the bike as it is missing on mine.  There are a few missing components including grommets, etc. I may go though EME in Colorado as one can also order the cap and the temperature sensor.  Kparts Holland doesn't seem to have the fuse cover or the radiator cap, but I think they have the temperature sensor.  So far I have spent around $1,000 in parts, which is getting a bit tiring, but mainly from my home "banker".  I had revived a 1981 Kawasaki KZ650 about 7 years ago and had it running so well.  Unfortunately, I was told I could only have one bike so I sold it and kept my 1994 KLR650 that I revived and had running so well.  Then sold the KLR and bought a new 2015 Yamaha FJ-09.   

The one electronic shop in Red Deer has the Contura switch and cover in stock in Red Deer, but nothing like the posi-tap tap connectors.  ALso they steered me towards the Contura I switch as the II is one that only stays on for a short period and then automatically flips off (at least this is what they told me).  The person I talked to indicated they would only have connectors (water proof) where you would need to cut the wire and then splice to two original wires together along with the wire going to the one terminal on the switch, while the other switch terminal would go to a ground point on the bike frame. My son-in-law works as a heavy duty mechanic in Fort Mac and worked previously with an energy services company repairing industrial generators and has his red seal as a mill wright.  He is also into building custom hot rods so I might get his help, but he is two weeks up in Fort Mac and two weeks off, and him and my daughter are building a barndominium about 60 clicks from Lacombe where we live so I don't want to be a bother and may try to muddle my way if necessary. 

Would anyone have some pics or diagrams that clearly show what wire (and where it is) I need to tie into for the one terminal on the switch.  The other terminal will be wired to a ground point.  Also I will try to see if I can see any numbers or letters on the wire to determine the size (gauge) of the wire as I normally don't do a lot of wiring work and can't id the gauge just by looking at it. 

Thanks!!

[frankenduck]

If you ground pin E in the thermo relay socket then you are just grounding the temp sensor which does nothing.

The resistance from the coolant temp sensor is input at Pin E. As the engine heats up the resistance at Pin E goes down to "tell" the thermo relay what the coolant temp is.

[k-roc]

If you ground pin E in the thermo relay socket then you are just grounding the temp sensor which does nothing.

The resistance from the coolant temp sensor is input at Pin E. As the engine heats up the resistance at Pin E goes down to "tell" the thermo relay what the coolant temp is.

I was following the instructions in the thread https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6702.0

Specifically "Ground pin E will simulate overheating to the temp relay. The fan should start and the overtemp light illuminate.  Proves the temperature relay is functional." 

Looking at this again (likely the 3rd or 4th time) I likely have misinterpreted this and it is only to test the functionality of the relay itself and not the temperature sensor that is on the top left part of the engine block. 

[k-roc]

Just having a cup of coffee and reviewing a few things.  In the thread, https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6702.0, the Mighty Gryphon mentions "If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start.  Overtemp light on the dash indicates the override is in use." 

Would one access the wire coming out of connection E in the small bottom section of the relay and should this be done in the relay box or can one trace the wire outside of the relay box and tie into it along its path to the water temperature sensor. 

I apologize for the multiple questions as my terms may be incorrect and it is likely hard to visualize what I am getting at.  I have uploaded eight pictures that go in sequence from the relay box to the wiring coming from the temperature sensor on my 1995 BMW K75 RT.  There is text in each pic to provide context and also to ask questions. 

Picture 1:

Red lines/arrows: “Jumper A2 to 45 will bypass the temp relay and the fan should start.  Proves the fan works.”   When I tested this the fan ran fine with no unusual squealing noises.

Yellow lines/arrows: “Jumper A3 to ground and the overtemp light should illuminate. Proves the warning light functions.” When I tested this the overltemp light illuminated.

Light green lines/arrows: “Ground pin E will simulate overheating to the temp relay. The fan should start and the overtemp light illuminate.  Proves the temperature relay is functional.” Nothing happened when I did this test.  Based on the text from the original post this would suggest the relay is not working properly or could it be the temperature sensor?

NOTE: in the top photo in picture 1, the yellow line is off and should be touching pin A3 an the ground pin.

Picture 2:

“If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start.  Overtemp light on the dash indicates the override is in use.”

Connector pin and slot for E indicated by red arrow?

Wire for connector pin and slot E indicated by yellow arrow?  Wire appears to be purple and green stripes?

Picture 3

“If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start.

 Overtemp light on the dash indicates the override is in use.”

Picture 4


“If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start. “

 V/G = Violet (purple)/Green.  Is Violet the predominant colour with a smaller strip of green?  How do you tell the difference between the two V/G wires coming from the temperature sensor?  Note the red box (just outline no fill colour) is the VG wire coming from the temperature sensor and going to the temperature relay in the relay box (see Pic 1)

Picture 5

Wire for connector pin and slot E indicated by yellow arrow?  Wire appears to be purple and green stripes?

Very little if any slack in the wires to try to tie in here in the relay box.

Picture 6

Grounding options for switch wire

Red arrow bolt appears to be a ground for a number of wires.  A bit tight here.

Yellow arrows are alternative grounding locations that would require a bolt, nut and lock washer

Picture 7

“If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start.  Overtemp light on the dash indicates the override is in use.”

Can I tap into the wiring that comes from the temperature sensor (yellow arrows)?

There are two wires based on the diagram in Pictures 3 and 4. The V/G wire to tap into should be the one to ground.  However, how do you tell the difference between the two V/G wires (See Picture 4) coming off of the temperature sensors as one goes to the temperature relay box and the other to the FI (aka Jettronic control unit?

Picture 8:

“If you want an override switch to turn on the fan when you desire, wire up a SPST switch to Pin E and ground the other side of the switch.  When riding, flip the switch and the fan will start.  Overtemp light on the dash indicates the override is in use.”

The wire from the temperature sensor joins the fuel injector wires in a combined unit (red arrow) that comes along the back end of the air accumulator and then into another wiring loom.  There seems to be a wire that comes out of this and appears to go towards the middle of the bike and then into the relay. (yellow arrow)  I may have this incorrect. 

If correct can I join into the VG wire by opening the sheathing on the wire my finger is touching (yellow  arrow)?


Another quick question.  If the test of jumping between Pin e doesn't result in the fan coming on, then likely if I wired in a switch as outlined above it would not work, and thus I would need a new relay.  However, am i doing the test correctly?  See Picture 1 to illustrate how I did the test.  Note the gas tank was off and I just had the key turned to on.  NOTE: in the top photo in picture 1, the yellow line is off and should be touching pin A3 an the ground pin.

[frankenduck]

If you want to test grounding Pin E then just strip the end of a wire and stick it in the E hole of the relay holder. Then install the thermo relay and Pin E will hold it that wire in place.

[Laitch]

Another quick question.

I've got a few observations, k-roc.
These are not quick questions for us. They involve mining through information that has already been published and verified to determine if you understand it.


It's clear in your first post—to me anyway—that your ability to focus needs improvement and that you're trying to improve it. If you're going to get into wiring you need a basic crimping tool and wire gauge. You can use the stripping holes in it to determine the gauges of wire, or you can chose to believe what you are told here.

The reason you've launched into this endeavor seems to be that hot coolant blew from your coolant reservoir. One of the main reasons that happens is the gaskets in the radiator cap have deteriorated making the cooling system loose pressure. Coolant heats much faster when pressure in a closed system is lowered then BINGO, water spurts from the cap. frankenduck has made it part of his life's work to get this across to the occupants in the world of Bricks; it must be distressing for him—as it can be for any sage—when that life's work is ignored. Did you replace the cap gaskets yet?

Now here's the thrust of my post. You're trying to make a pizza here by mixing all the ingredients in a bowl then dumping them onto the table but you haven't made the crust yet.

If you're determined to have this manual fan switch, the crust of your pizza is the switch—finding one and installing it into your dash pad. Even if you never wire it to anything, it will look like it does something and is likely to impress your friends. Neither of the switches at the links you published in your first post here seems to be the correct one. The first link is an SPDT switch; that switch has three terminals. You only need a two-terminal switch. The switch at the second link seems to be a momentary SPST switch. A momentary switch only supplies current to its object for as long as the switch is being pushed; when it stops being pushed, current is cut off.

All you need is this simple switch or one like it. The dimensions of the switch are in its information. If you don't like that one, find one that will fit satisfactorily into your dash pad without carving the pad up like a turkey. That switch is the crust of your pizza. The wiring, the posi-taps, the wire terminals and their destinations are the ingredients artistically applied to the crust.

After you've installed the switch, come back and ingredients will be added one at a time. Make your next post concise.

[frankenduck]

Coolant does not heat faster under lower pressure. What happens when the radiator cap blows is that the water mixed with the coolant EXPANDS under loss of pressure and becomes a gas when the water is above its boiling point of 212F/100C.

If the radiator cap blows before the temp light comes on then it usually means that the radiator cap  has gone bad. The parts manual shows the gaskets as separate parts but when you buy a radiator cap those are included with the new cap.

My K75 turbo was doing this and a new radiator cap solved the problem.

I've installed fan switches in some of bikes but no longer do because I never feel the need to use a fan switch.

[Laitch]

Coolant does not heat faster under lower pressure. What happens when the radiator cap blows is that the water mixed with the coolant EXPANDS under loss of pressure and becomes a gas when the water is above its boiling point of 212F/100C.

I should have phrased it this way,—A system under pressure can handle higher temperatures, and offers a higher static boiling point—but the result is the same; what wouldn't boil before a drop in pressure now does and causes a mobile high temperature rinsing of anything in its path.
Onward, into the breach!

[k-roc]

If you want to test grounding Pin E then just strip the end of a wire and stick it in the E hole of the relay holder. Then install the thermo relay and Pin E will hold it that wire in place.

Thanks.  I had used a stripped piece of wire for the other tests, i.e. fan and temp light functionality, but to test ground E is it correct that you need the bike to be running and not just having the key turned to the on position.  Your advice will allow for this.

The advice regarding the radiator cap is also appreciated.  I noted this and checked the cap and the screens looked clear, while the two gaskets looked ok.  The larger one seemed in better shape, while the smaller one had no rips or tears, but showed indentations from use.  I disassembled the cap cleaned everything and used protectant on the seal.  After draining, flushing and replacing the coolant I made sure the cap was securely put on.  It seemed a bit loose when I first took it off the bike after it over heated.  Please note this is temporary.  I will be ordering a new cap, but want to wait until I have a few more things to put in the order, e.g. temperature sensor, fuse box cover, etc.  It will be via EME out of Colorado and via regular shipping it takes about 10 days or so to get to me in central Alberta. 

[k-roc]

I've got a few observations, k-roc.
These are not quick questions for us. They involve mining through information that has already been published and verified to determine if you understand it.


It's clear in your first post—to me anyway—that your ability to focus needs improvement and that you're trying to improve it. If you're going to get into wiring you need a basic crimping tool and wire gauge. You can use the stripping holes in it to determine the gauges of wire, or you can chose to believe what you are told here.

The reason you've launched into this endeavor seems to be that hot coolant blew from your coolant reservoir. One of the main reasons that happens is the gaskets in the radiator cap have deteriorated making the cooling system loose pressure. Coolant heats much faster when pressure in a closed system is lowered then BINGO, water spurts from the cap. frankenduck has made it part of his life's work to get this across to the occupants in the world of Bricks; it must be distressing for him—as it can be for any sage—when that life's work is ignored. Did you replace the cap gaskets yet?

Now here's the thrust of my post. You're trying to make a pizza here by mixing all the ingredients in a bowl then dumping them onto the table but you haven't made the crust yet.

If you're determined to have this manual fan switch, the crust of your pizza is the switch—finding one and installing it into your dash pad. Even if you never wire it to anything, it will look like it does something and is likely to impress your friends. Neither of the switches at the links you published in your first post here seems to be the correct one. The first link is an SPDT switch; that switch has three terminals. You only need a two-terminal switch. The switch at the second link seems to be a momentary SPST switch. A momentary switch only supplies current to its object for as long as the switch is being pushed; when it stops being pushed, current is cut off.

All you need is this simple switch or one like it. The dimensions of the switch are in its information. If you don't like that one, find one that will fit satisfactorily into your dash pad without carving the pad up like a turkey. That switch is the crust of your pizza. The wiring, the posi-taps, the wire terminals and their destinations are the ingredients artistically applied to the crust.

After you've installed the switch, come back and ingredients will be added one at a time. Make your next post concise.

There were a few things at play in terms of the bike.  The overheating issue was one.  There was no disrespect meant for frankenduck.  I am fully intending on replacing the cap based on reviewing multiple posts on this forum and other forums, the cap is important and the bike is a 1995 and I have no idea if the cap or its components were replaced previously.  Based on some of the posts I reviewed one temporary option was to clean the cap components.  I cleaned the screens while the two gaskets looked ok.  The larger one seemed in better shape, while the smaller one had no rips or tears, but showed indentations from use. Again I appreciated the information regarding the importance of having a properly functioning cap and the my approach is just temporary until I can get a new cap from EME which will take about 7-10 days or so, while I also want to get a few more things.  The order will go in about a couple of weeks, following pay day.  I had the bike into Red Deer last evening to pick up some Castrol Edge oil for our Mazda CX-5 and Toyota RAV4 as I am changing the oil this weekend.  BTW the 5L jugs fit very nicely and upright in the side cases (I checked using a used jug I had at home).  The bike ran well, idled smoothly and I didn't notice issues with overheating or the temp light coming on.  It was hard to tell if the fan came on, but the temp last night was around 20 C or so. 

I reviewed multiple posts here and on other forums and although there were schematics, I wanted to be cautious about adding a switch and wanted to make sure I had the correct one and more importantly that I tied into the existing wiring without causing other issues.   Thus, I took some pictures, and then used PowerPoint to try to provide context in terms of what testing I had done and then where on the bike I could tie into the wiring. 

I have been working on the bike for the last several weeks in terms of multiple maintenance items and fixing some things that the previous owners had done, while also updating a few things.  Again the information on the forum from various members has been great along with other forums and various YouTube videos, while I have a Clymer manual as well as a PDF of the factory service manual and have looked at these multiple times.  The work that have done so far has included cleaning some of the handle bar switches as they were a bit stiff (e.g. signal switches), removing the the drive line and cleaning and lubing the rear splines and pulling out the drive shaft and lubing the splines at the front of the shaft.  I would like to clean and lube the clutch input spline, but based on reviewing this and multiple forums, looking at the manuals and also reviewing several YouTube videos, this seems quite involved and am leave until the winter or I may take it down to Anderwerks in Calgary to do this.  Other tasks included draining gear oil at the rear and front and replacing it.  Replacing all throttle body rubbers, adjusting the choke and synching the three throttle bodies.  Rebuilding the front two calipers and draining and replacing the brake fluid.  Removing and replacing rotted wiring loom protectors from the gas tank to the rear signal light, adding wiring armour at points where the wiring may or has rubbed.  Lubing pivot points on the brake and clutch levers.  I avoided lubing the cables based on reviewing this forum and others as the K75 doesn't require this and actually lubing the cable can deteriorate the internal components of the cables.  Fixing various body hardware issues including missing rubber grommets as well as removing the jerry-rigged front radiator cover that wasn't meant for the bike and replacing it with a radiator cover and the two carbon fiber side radiator covers from K-Parts Holland.

In terms of installing the switch, for me it is peace of mind.  However, there seems to be some debate regarding the need for a switch if one addresses the radiator cap issue as well as ensures other components are functioning.  I have done some modest rewiring on my previous motorcycles (1981 KZ650 and 1994 KLR 650) and had no issues.  I didn't do much on my Yamaha FJ-09 except wire in a cable for my battery tender to charge the battery over the winter.  On the K75 I fixed up some wiring related to a poor installation of an SAE cable.  I have disconnected most of the electrical connects, cleaned them with cleaner and used dielectric grease.  However, I was hesitant to install a fan override switch as I wasn't sure where I should tie into the wiring and didn't want to cause any issues.  My apologies if I seem unfocused.

[Laitch]

There were a few things at play in terms of the bike. . .  .

Your thread started with overheating as the topic. Your latest post isn’t concise nor does it seem to be starting on a step-by-step approach to installing a fan switch. You’re all over the place again.

If you want a fan switch, install one in the dash pad, tap the E wire in a convenient place using a posi-tap—as has been recommended—then connect the wire to one of the switch terminals. Attach a wire to the ground plate under the frame backbone and attach its end to the other switch contact.  Power up means turn the key in the ignition switch to ON but, as the text at the link you supplied indicates, be certain the kill switch lever is in the vertical position or you're liable to be prematurely disappointed.

In conclusion, and with a heartfelt adiós:
Experience has shown me that peace of mind comes from developing a calm and focused mind, not from having a fan switch. 

Good luck with your project.

[k-roc]

Thanks.  Again I very sincerely appreciate the forum and your advice and that of others.  I finished up most of what I wanted to to with the bike, except replace the fuel filter and will try to do this once the tank gets close to empty.  Changed the oil, filter and two gaskets over the weekend and rechecked the throttle body synch.  I didn't have a small enough t-connection to connect the third throttle body and the vacuum hose going to the fuel regulator when I checked before.  Picked up a box of various sized and types of nylon hose connectors from Princess Auto on Saturday and rechecked the sync as per the manuals and various posts, etc. As I was checking the synch with my carbtune the bike's fan cut in a couple of times so the sensor and fan seem to be functional and thus I will hold off on the switch for now. 

[K75user1979]

The fan on my 87 runs directly but not through the system.  I think my relay is bad, did all the test etc..  I'm not too worried about it anyway since I was riding through the summer and some days got to near 40 deg c.  No problem whilst stopped at traffic lights on those hot days.  These K-bikes seem to run cool even on the hottest days.

[k-roc]

Update as of August 5, 2024.

Over the last 1-2 months I have done a few smaller things including securing the wiring connector for the rear signal lights as the small connector assembly was not screwed to the license plate assembly and was just hanging loose. 

I did order a fuel injector rebuilt kit (x 3) from EME in Colorado and replaced the two o-rings, plastic end caps and filters on each injector.  With this as well as replacing the throttle body rubber boots, and other vacuum lines the bike runs and idles quite nicely. 

I am looking at getting a local independent shop in Red Deer, AB to replace the fork oil and reduce the fork seals.  In addition, I want to put on a new rear shock and will likely go with the Yss Gas Eco Line BMW K 75/100 LT/RT Rear Shock.  K-Parts Holland (https://kpartsholland.com/products/new-yss-rear-shock-absorber-k75-k100-8v?variant=41112053448882) and Motard Inn (https://www.tradeinn.com/motardinn/en/yss-gas-eco-line-bmw-k-75-100-lt-rt-rear-shock/139290438/p?_gl=1*13sxtsz*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MG1BhCoARIsAHxSiQlg3SbignKmD0UQr-ulFxYRXFl4ILQqajfcDoQgxeP3Oad8apOeCtkaAq5mEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds).  I have ordered through K-Parts and have been quite happy and the complete price with shipping is lower versus Motard Inn.
 Motard Inn also seems to be part of an overall on-line retailer based out of Spain.  I will also check with Argyle in Edmonton to see what they have to offer. 

Went out for a quick local spin and as part of this I like to take the on ramps for Hwy 2 (our main highway between Edmonton and Calgary) which provide some nice curves.  Some of the ones close to Lacombe allow one to lean both left and right as you merge onto Hwy 2 at speed.  I noticed that the bike bounced a bit when taking one at speed (75-100 km/hr) and with some google searching the likely culprit is a worn rear shock.  The front forks and springs may be a factor too.  I may see if the shop in Red Deer can update their quote to include new springs (progressives likely).  The fork oil is old according to the shop as they did the out-of-province inspection earlier this spring. 

Overall, the bike runs very smoothly and I am getting more used to its riding position versus my previous 2015 Yamaha FJ-09.

[Past-my-Prime]

Although I would never personally disassemble the rear shock, the forks are pretty easy to take apart in the garage and replace seals, etc. and refill with ATF

for rear shock I went Wilber’s. I know, half the cost of a whole k bike these days. But I’m very pleased with the results!

[mrt6644]

Ive read through these threads and done tests but Im still having issues with the fan and relay.
I have a 95 K75 which I bought used recently.

I found that the stock fan was seized so I ordered and installed the Phal fan.

There were 2 leads to the handlebars which I found out were a manual fan switch.
I want to get this back to having the fan turn on automatically, and then later adding an on switch.

Looks like the previous owner pulled one of the wires out of the fan relay to wire it to the switch.
I trued putting that lead back into the relay but now the fan runs all the time.
Not sure I have the wires plugged into the relay correctly.
Does anyone know the color of the wires and to what position in the relay each should go?

Seems like that wire that was previously routed t the switch and then to relay pin 15 is always on.
Wonder if there is something else broken?

Also, I was confused as to whether A2 or A3 went to the fan positive lead.  I did a continuity test and A2 and A3 appear to be connected to each other.  Does that sound right?
I thought one was for temp light and the other was for the fan.
Just checked again with ignition on and engine on.
With ignition on and engine off, A2 and A3 both have 12+ volts.
With engine running one has 12 volts and the other doesn't.  So I guess that makes sense as the one without the voltage is probably the temp warning light.
I still can't figure out what the fan runs all the time with the replay attached.  I wonder if the wires were changed around.
What is the actual trigger for the relay? E? or are there more than one?

[frankenduck]

https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/relayboxes/relayboxes.htm

[mrt6644]

I also tested the resistance between E and ground with engine running and somewhat cold.  Resistance was OL or super high.
Why would the relay be triggered then?  I thought relay only triggers when resistance between E and ground is low?

[mrt6644]

https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/relayboxes/relayboxes.htm

Thanks.  According to the color layout of the relay wires on the diagram, mine is wired correctly.
Still not sure why the relay is always in trigger mode. 

[frankenduck]

I also tested the resistance between E and ground with engine running and somewhat cold.  Resistance was OL or super high.
Why would the relay be triggered then?  I thought relay only triggers when resistance between E and ground is low?

What's OL/super high?  How many ohms?

Temp relay should not turn on fan (power to A2) until E to ground is under 200 ohms.

[mrt6644]

OL is what the meter displays when it can’t read any resistance/. So not sure why relay is triggering

[frankenduck]

Call me. Too much typing involved.

I'm on Pacific time and will PM you my number.

[mrt6644]

That would be great.  Thanks