Extracting Starter Motor from 1993 K75s

[lmiklosy]

Hello Brickers,
 
I removed the two 5mm bolts from the starter motor casting but cannot extract the starter from the bell housing. It is not bound by corrosion and loose enough to wiggle it but it won't budge rearward. Tried using a lever but no go. What is the secret to this extraction?  Have tried Advanced Search for this with no specific remedy.
 
The reason for the R&R is a flat-spot on the armature prevents the starter motor from operation. Had enough of no headlights and rocking the bike to engage the sprag clutch, it's time to repair this.
    Thanks for any guidance.

[Laitch]

There was another episode of this recently. The o-ring can adhere the works. Saturate the pedestal mounts with Liquid Wrench or similar, put the straw on the nozzle and aim at the vicinity of the o-ring shown in the diagram and saturate that. Wait, then tappity-tap-tap gently with a mallet, pull, and Bob's your uncle, if you're not working out some karmic debt you've accumulated along the line.

[lmiklosy]

    That worked! 

Apply the WD-40 or Fishoil of choice to the O-ring, then with a plumber's channel-lock (photo) gently rotate the starter motor CW then CCW to work the oil onto the O-ring, then pull backwards while rotating and the starter will free itself. 

Thank you Laitch and contributors.    -Les 

[lmiklosy]

Her's wat i found inside the starter motor.

Seems the Nippon Denso motor assembler uses too much grease on the armature bushing that eventually fouls the armature and brushes. After clean-up with lacquer thinner and 400-grit W/D sandpaper the armature commutator looks good as new.  Bike starts immediately now, no more lighting issues with headlights.

When began this project I suspected the load shed relay #3 in the Clymer manual, but the cause was grease on the commutator.      Hope that helps somebody.   

[Laitch]

  Thanks for the photos!

[frankenduck]

If you just keep riding instead of stopping then you won't have to start your bike as often.