Clutch free play randomly increased

[Lbxpdx]

When I bought my bike roughly 6k miles ago, there was barely any free play and it had a new clutch that was roughly 2.5k miles old.  I went through and set it up properly according to the chilton book with 75mm of length on the transmission side.   It never really felt like real free play, I was use to old 70’s airheads.  I did the 1.5mm at the lever until I could feel tension when being pulled in with just one finger on the lever. 

Last night on my ride home, I noticed that my clutch seemed to pull in easier, and I just assumed it was from different gloves.  This morning on my way to work, I noticed that I truly had free play at the lever now.  I tried to adjust it at the lever, but it would seem that I’m near the end of my cable adjustment.  I will adjust it at the tranny when I get home tonight, but I’m curious what would cause free play out of nowhere after nearly 8k miles on a new BMW shop installed clutch?

 

[frankenduck]

1 - It's possible that the aft end of the cable wasn't properly seated in the hole in the transmission and finally slipped into place.

2 - The locknut on the adjuster is loose and the bolt is backing out.

[Scott_]

Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.

+1  No need to explain how I know this.

[Lbxpdx]

Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.

Thanks.  That is the problem. Glad I made it to work and back home
Looks like I was down to two wires.

Any recommendations on where to buy or brand?  Local BMW shop wants $82!!  Should I order two from EuroMotorElectrics or go with OEM?  Max BMW wants $74.

[Scott_]

Before you replace it(place your order) check for lever free play in the pivot bushing as well as free play(slop) in the cable barrel.
If the hole is out of round too much it will bind the brass barrel and not allow it to rotate, thus flexing the cable to the point of breaking strands.
I personally am placing an order this week with Max for a new cable for mine.(replacing my spare that I just installed last week.)
Careful lubrication of the brass barrel and the lever pivot pin are your friend..
On my '95 I discovered the lever pivot hole(and worn pin) and the barrel hole were allowing too much movement of the lever and binding of the cable barrel, so I replaced lever off my '97 parts bike.

[Lbxpdx]

I just checked my records and the cable was OEM and is 6k/10 years old. 

[frankenduck]

When you are replacing the cable it's a good idea to make sure that you don't let the clutch arm fall back. If it does then it is not uncommon for the $33 clutch boot on the transmission to tear and fail.

You can either:

1) Use zip-ties


2) Pull in the clutch and put a piece of wood between the clutch arm and exhaust.

[Lbxpdx]

Well, hopefully it’s fine.  The cable snapped on me in my garage and I headed west to grab a cable from the dealership. 

[Lbxpdx]

I’m actually glad the cable busted.  While I wasn’t fond of dropping $82 on a cable, it broke on a weekend when I had time to get to the dealer and fix it the same day.  Being that this guitar is 30 years old, it feels new compared to my 70’s airheads. The new clutch cable feels even better than I expected. 

[Scott_]

Glad you got it all fixed up....
It makes for a nice feeling to know BMW still recognizes that some of these older machines are still operational and need some parts.
Granted it would be nice of all parts where still available, like drive line parts.... but at least we can still get most items. Unlike other brands.
I used to have a 20yr Yamaha and couldn't get much of anything for spare parts.