Help me with the parts list for the K75

[Laitch]

.  Also REMOVE THAT PUSHROD(CLUTCH PIN) BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE TRANNY AGAIN.  That pushrod should not be in the tranny at all when mount it to the clutch bell housing if you do it without the tool.  YOU RISK BENDING THAT PIN if you leave it in.

A K75 clutch rod cannot be inserted after the transmission is mounted; it must be inserted before. It is designed differently than the 100 and 1100 rods. Careful installation of the transmission using the guide pins will protect the rod. I've lifted the transmission onto the pins by myself but also can use a small rolling jack to do it if I'm feeling puny that day.  A shorter transmission mounting guide pin is unnecessary with a K75; two longer pins can be used.

[Batan]

A K75 clutch rod cannot be inserted after the transmission is mounted; it must be inserted before. It is designed differently than the 100 and 1100 rods. Careful installation of the transmission using the guide pins will protect the rod. I've lifted the transmission onto the pins by myself but also can use a small rolling jack to do it if I'm feeling puny that day.  A shorter transmission mounting guide pin is unnecessary with a K75; two longer pins can be used.

Great to know, thank you.
BTW, your K75 is my perfect idea of the K - colour, tires, and all.

[Batan]

Forgot this one....battery died, but it's not a super critical measurement anyway so you can do 12mm and it's fine

Thanks. I might incorporate a space through the midle for a long steel pin to reinforce the tool. Thinking coat hanger wire perhaps. Actually, better, the shaft of an old long skinny screwdriver.

[Laitch]

. . . your K75 is my perfect idea of the K - colour, tires, and all.

I've ridden thousands of miles on bicycles with drop and flat handlebars. Having a low sidecar handlebar on the Brick puts my body in a familiar forward and comfortable position for riding on two wheels. The Brick is the most reliable road vehicle I have owned so far; of course, it has six months off during winter here.   

Good luck with yours. 

[Batan]

I've ridden thousands of miles on bicycles with drop and flat handlebars. Having a low sidecar handlebar on the Brick puts my body in a familiar forward and comfortable position for riding on two wheels. The Brick is the most reliable road vehicle I have owned so far; of course, it has six months off during winter here.   

Good luck with yours. 

Thanks!
What width are they? I wonder if they are similar to S bars.

[Batan]

3D printed clutch alignment tool, inserting a metal rod through the middle.

[Laitch]

What width are they? I wonder if they are similar to S bars.

The Flanders flat sidecar bar is 27.5 inches wide—approximately three inches wider than an S bar and has slightly less rise and ≈half the pullback distance. It is illustrated in the attached photo. There's room on it for BMW Brick switch gear and also auxiliary light controls, dingle-dangles, whirligigs, plate and cup holders or other bric-a-brac although not all of those extras will fit at the same time.   

When shopping for a replacement bar, the buyer must realize that 7/8" and  22mm are not equivalent measurements, contrary to some advertisements; 7/8" is a slightly larger diameter than 22mm. BMW Brick switch gear won't fit the 7/8" bar easily unless its diameter is reduced by sanding or machining the area where the gear is to be mounted. Tightening BMW Brick switch gear on an unmodified 7/8" bar could crack the units' plastic housings. Here is the bar I'm using.

[frankenduck]

When you lube the clutch splines do not fall for the old wives' tale that you need to be sparing in the amount of lube that you use:

https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/splinelubeamt/splinelubeamt.htm

[Laitch]

When you lube the clutch splines do not fall for the old wives' tale that you need to be sparing in the amount of lube that you use . . .

You don't need to be sparing if you don't care about wasting lubricant.


GAWDELPME; I CAN'T STOP MYSELF!


The thing is that molydenum lubricant of ≥50% molybdenum content creates a lubricating film that bonds with thoroughly cleaned metal ridges and fillets of spline shafts or spline clutch hubs. Not much molybdenum lubricant is needed to create an effective, long-lasting film on spline shafts. In a Brick, the film's effective lifespan is 30K–40K miles of operation. The engagement of these shafts is relatively close if either isn't heavily worn. When a transmission input shaft with so much lubricant paste—as depicted in the above photo—is inserted into a clutch hub, the clutch hub splines will likely push most of that paste onto the input shaft collar where it will lubricate nothing for the remainder of its life during the interface of these parts.

I can suggest only a couple of reasons why riders would apply as much goo depicted in the above photo: 1) they are in a hurry to catch a flight to Belize or another exotic destination, or 2) they are in a hurry to arrive at a Happy Hour or a speed-dating event before last call.

I take the obsessive route that Chris Harris travels. The only places I'm going is where my Brick takes me.



Chances are whatever you do—unless you're seriously inept or distracted—your results will be acceptable if using a lubricating paste with ≥50% molybdenum on clean splines.

[frankenduck]

Wasting lubricant? Are you series? 

The recommended spline lube service interval is 40,000 miles for 1990-on K bikes.

During that time a rider will have:
- purchased at least four sets of tires
- purchased at least 800 gallons of gas
- done numerous oil changes
- a few fork oil changes
- incurred other miscellaneous maintenance costs like brakes, etc...

Not to mention other costs like insurance and vehicle registration.

What do you think that those costs total up to?

And you think that I should worry about "wasting" a buck or two of little spline lube every 40,000 miles? It costs me more if I knock over a beer.

Not to mention that it takes much less time/effort to just slather it on than to go through some needless Type A process. You don't even have to waste time watching silly YouTube videos.

As the saying goes, I guess common sense isn't all that common anymore.

[Laitch]

Wasting lubricant? Are you series?

Which series is that, duck—Six Feet Under?
I'm referring to material waste and how ignorance of the uses and characteristics of a material creates it. It's not a concern of a First Worlder like you. Now get back to your meeting before you're missed. 

[Arktasian]

Great ah - banter! 

[Laitch]

 

[frankenduck]

Which series is that, duck—Six Feet Under?

"Are you series?" is a somewhat common Internet joke. I guess you haven't seen it before.

[Laitch]

I'm on the outside looking in.