Author Topic: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions  (Read 2293 times)

Offline matjas

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1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« on: September 11, 2023, 04:18:26 AM »
Hello guys,

I have racked up a nice number of kilometres on my newly acquired brick and sort of left a mark on the seat :D so I am able to gather some questions and doubts together in an attempt at making it a better bike for me. Maybe someone will use this for themselves in the future.

1. I NEED TO REDO THE SEAT. I mean it is comfortable and can easily do 800-1000km days but I must be avkle to move my butt BACK 3-4cms - now I am pressing my knees into the fairing which on longer runs is not so nice;
2. NEED TO REPLACE THE WINSHIELD - it must be higher and wider. Found the Zet-Technik /pricey for me AF/ and this is my best bet. Unless I will make one myself. The Ztechnik is 5cms higher - not much I must say. From what I have observed I need a windshield higher by maybe 7-8 cms so that when it is in the UP position it is not so vertical causing the vortex behind. Wonder if the Ztechnik 5cms will be enough;
3. NEED TO REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT - being a car engine, K's motor should be rock steady in the running temp. When I just ride, even when it is hot the needle is right in the middle. When I ride slowly It will climb - depending on the speed it will go below 3/4 and sit there. When I ride downhill long secions the needle will drop from the middle to a bit ABOVE 1/4. To me that is not right. Are they all doing this? I HIGHLY doubt it;
4. NEED TO REVIEW THE COOLING SYSTEM - to me the rad cap is faulty. I THINK I am not getting proper flow into the expansion tank. When I ride and it is VERY hot outside the tank will remain cold. Bought another rad in great shape with fan and cap and thermostat. Maybe I will try swapping parts around before being spendy;
5. NEED TO REVIEV THE RELAYS AND RELAY BOARD - when going on the TourDeFrance route the road was blocked by moving bike racers - so I did one of the Alp passes in 1st gear, uphill with fan on most of the time. The fan manages to cool it down no problem. Then the bike cooled down riding and then, in some scenic area I stopped to take a pic and the bike did not start - no pump whizz. After 5 minutes maybe it started ok. Then I arrived at the hotel in the evening and stiopped for the checkin with the fan on. Cooled the bike down until the fan stopped, switched it off and went for the checkin. When trying to move the bike into their premises it didnt want to start again - cranking, everything on, fuel pump off. Flickd the killswitch a couple of times and no help, flicked the ignition lock a couple of times and PRESTO! pump on. This happened only twice and NEVER repeated. Relay??? I think so.
6.REAR 18'' WHEEL??? My rear Lasertec tyre went - just a little piece of thread left. Cant obtain a new tyre as it seems to be discontinued. I am thinking about getting an 18'' RS wheel - actually found one. To those of you who tried this mod - is this really a good option? From what I read it enables one to use modern radial tyres both rear and front and run a SET not a mixed pair. What say you?;
7. THE FRONT SUSPENSION IS NOT UP TO THE JOB. It sags a lot and there is not much travel left when I need it. MAYBE the springs have compressed over time? There are holes in the middle of the top caps and i am thinking about fitting air filling valves for the starters as in many other bikes I used to have before. Maybe different springs - new and progressive? I am not very heavy - maybe 95kgs in all the gear;
8. REAR SUSPENSION is sort of ok but the hook turned preload is a nightmare. Thinking about fitting a hydraulic preload from a GS or Deauville to the existing shock.
9. TAILPIPE IS SOOTY - the consumption is great /4.5-5.5l/100kms/ so I dont think the bike is running rich but the tailpipe is sooty and has black deposit inside. COULD BE the temp instability and the temp sensor making the bike run rich AT TIMES. Maybe that is also a reason why newly changed oil turns black only after 200kms???
10. OIL CONSUMPTION - the bike liked to drink 10w40 oil A LOT :D - switched to 20w50 dino and it is MUCH better but still is taking some. What I noticed however - there is almost NO perceivable consumption in the motorway but is does take a lot in the mountains - I do a LOT of engine braking. This could point to old/hard valve stem seals. At least what I think.

your ideas are more than welcome. I would do same stuff /most of it anyway/ to any bike I am intending to keep for longer so this one being 28 years old just shows how robust it is.
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Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2023, 08:14:56 AM »
I am not familiar with the intricacies of the K1100 engine, but have owned 5 bricks of which 2 were 16v K100's.

In my experience, the normal temperature reading on the gauge is about 3/8 of the full scale, so I suspect what you see coasting downhill is about right.  The higher readings are probably the result of reduced heat transfer from the radiator. 

I had a similar problem with my first 16v K100 that turned out to be caused by a lot of minerals in the cooling system with dirt and insects blocking the airflow through the fins.  It took two cooling system flushes to get the minerals out of the system.  Then I had to remove and soak the radiator in vinegar to clean out the dirt and insects from the fins.  After that, the temperature stayed a lot more constant and didn't rise up beyond 3/4 unless I was in stop and go traffic on a hot day.

The cooling system on the 16v bikes seems to be marginal and needs to be clean inside and out to cool efficiently.  You also might want to consider adding a manual fan switch.

Last, before you spend the money to replace the thermostat, you want to pull it out and do a test to see how it is operating. 

Not knowing what seat you have, my only advice is to take it to an upholsterer and explain what you need.

Your fuel consumption doesn't seem to be bad, I would suspect that the soot you see on the pipe may be the normal amount that will collect if you are riding in traffic with a cold engine in the morning.  There is a reason that BMW advises riding off as soon as the engine is started.  The engine is tuned to run rich when cold.

My 16v engines both loved their oil and used a liter of synthetic 10w40 between 1000km and 1300km. Switching to Castrol GTX 10w50 slowed the oil usage to 1 liter per 1600km.  Changing the valve stem seals on my first bike only slowed the consumption a small amount, almost unmeasurable.

It may also be that your oil control rings are stuck, especially if the bike has been idle for an extended time.  Running some Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and in the fuel may help loosen them up.  It helped a bit with my bikes.  It took about 2500km to get them loosened up after sitting for 5-6 years. 

I don't know how tall you are, but my helmet gets a lot of turbulence noise off the windshield on all my Bricks.  Adding 6-7cm can help, but I got the best results by cutting the windshield down to put the turbulence at shoulder level allowing my helmet to ride in clean air.

On the suspension, check Race Tech or Progressive for fork springs.  I put a set of the Race Tech springs on my K75RT and the ride improved a lot.  In the rear, I would just get a good aftermarket shock fitted to your weight.  Many of us have had good results with YSS rear shocks. 

When you had starting problems, you weren't trying to start with the side stand down?  I have done that a few times and it causes the engine to flood and be very hard to start.  When I have that problem, I will unplug the tank connector to allow the engine to crank without the fuel pump running for a few seconds to blow the excess fuel out of the cylinders.  Then plug the tank back in and the engine should start normally.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Laitch

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2023, 12:00:52 PM »
My 16v engines both loved their oil and used a liter of synthetic 10w40 between 1km and 1.3km. Switching to Castrol GTX 10w50 slowed the oil usage to 1 liter per 1.6km.
If your engines used that much oil, it wasn't love it was lust. The smoke—or the reflective stream of oil following you—could have been tracked by MODIS or LIDAR on one of NASA's satellites.  :laughing1: Here is the manual's K1100 oil consumption figures.


The temperature gauge is not acting rock steady like you imagine it should, matjas, but the engine doesn't seem to be overheating despite the climbing and descending. Why not revel in that? A simpler approach might be to consider that the temperature sender (and/or its wiring) at the water pump is faulty.  The radiator cap is old. Replace it, if that would be personally fulfilling.   :wink: If it were defective, you probably would have experienced boil over and steam clouds accompanying you by now.

Anyway, you're well on your way to creating a prized specimen with a temporary oil addiction.  112350
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2023, 01:47:03 PM »
Laitch, while it's hard to decipher what exactly the permissible oil consumption spec actually is, if indeed it is 0.15liter/100km, then it is somewhere around 1 liter every 660km which is similar to the number I had heard in the past(1quart in 600 miles) which does seem like a lot. 

Regardless, my 16v oil consumption has averaged about a quart every 900 to 1000 miles for the last 7 years and 25,000 miles on two different bikes.  Compression is good and the engines run very well so I just look at it as a quirk.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Laitch

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2023, 01:53:12 PM »
I get you, MG, but you wrote 1km which in Canadican and metric parlance is one kilometer. I'm a literalist.  :laughing4-giggles:
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2023, 04:06:04 PM »
Aye!  That's a sharp eye ye have there, Matey!
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline matjas

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2023, 12:37:39 PM »
to add to this oil consumption thread - I took 1l of 20/50 mineral with me for my 5500km trip. Probably used like 0.7l for the whole distance and as I said - be it only motorway the bike would not take any oil. When doing long descents and lots of engine braking the oil would disappear noticeably.

m
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Offline frankenduck

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2023, 01:13:23 PM »
1)   Good idea. I have a custom seat about 1.5” farther back.

2)   I’m 6-2 and a +2" windscreen works well.  I’ve ridden a bike with the Z-Tehcnic screen and don’t like it. The curves on the sides of it I find distracting.

https://www.7jurock.com/collections/k1100lt/products/bmw-k1100lt-1991-1997-windshield

3)   As long as the red warning light in the cluster does not come on you’re fine.

4)   The only time coolant should flow into the expansion tank is when the engine overheats at about 120C. This only happens after the warning light comes on at 115C.

5)   The fan relay is controlled by the Motronic when the coolant temp hits 105C. Fiddling with the relay will not change that.

There’s no need to worry about the cooling system unless the warning light in the cluster comes on. You’re over-thinking this.

6)   If you ride in the rain then the RS rear will hydroplane sooner than the LT wheel. I’ve mixed radials on my LT. No issues. My favorite tires are Bridgestone T32. 150/70-17 works fine on the LT rear wheel.

Try Honda SS-8 10W fork oil. The factory springs are progressively wound.

Why do you engine brake a lot? Brakes are easier and cheaper to maintain than clutches.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
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Offline matjas

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2023, 02:06:42 PM »
1)   Good idea. I have a custom seat about 1.5” farther back.
I am 197cms which translates to what... 6feet? :D and pretty long legs. The issue is the cover got unstuck from the foam JUST behing the bottom of my back and is pushing me forward. I need to take the cover off, shave 2cms of the foam back and I should be right on the money.
2)I’m 6-2 and a +2" windscreen works well. I’ve ridden a bike with the Z-Tehcnic screen and don’t like it. The curves on the sides of it I find distracting.https://www.7jurock.com/collections/k1100lt/products/bmw-k1100lt-1991-1997-windshield
I found the Z-Technic price outrageous and looked in the internet long enough which resulted in finding a local Polish company who made a clear windshield 7cms higher than the original - half the price of ZTechnic. I like it a lot. I dont have to have it so upright to have the wind over my head and it results in less turbulence. When I have it all up it feels like riding in a car :D
5) The fan relay is controlled by the Motronic when the coolant temp hits 105C. Fiddling with the relay will not change that.
There’s no need to worry about the cooling system unless the warning light in the cluster comes on. You’re over-thinking this.
Yes I get the Motronic/Fan Relay combo but I was worried about the pump not going on after a couple of very hot runs. Thinking there could be something bad going on in the relay board, relays. I flick the key switch a couple of times and it started. It never caused a trouble ever since this way but on one of the last rides this season I had a case of sudden cut-off like ignition off or /most probably/ the fuel pump off. This also happened only once. BUT BUT BUT - there is something cooking.
6)If you ride in the rain then the RS rear will hydroplane sooner than the LT wheel. I’ve mixed radials on my LT. No issues. My favorite tires are Bridgestone T32. 150/70-17 works fine on the LT rear wheel.
Seems like I have no choice - i prefer to run the mixed setup then run non original wheel at the back. Will check the Bridgestone - THANKS!
Try Honda SS-8 10W fork oil. The factory springs are progressively wound.
They maybe are but I think they are saggy as hell :( Truth be told I used ATF fluid in front forks this time. Maybe bad on damping but with the current rate of the springs I am running of the working >>>stroke VERY soon. It just sags and i weigh maybe 95kgs in all gear.
Why do you engine brake a lot? Brakes are easier and cheaper to maintain than clutches.
Why would I use clutch for engine braking :D :D :D maybe just to reduce the gear but there is no slippage involved with blipping of the throttle.
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Offline frankenduck

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2023, 02:55:56 PM »
Also get a wider screen to reduce buffeting.

Engine braking will also wear your rear tire faster. I don't know about you but my rear tire always wears out long before the front.

I'd try using good fork oil vs. ATF before going through the expense and hassle of swapping fork springs. But that's just me.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline matjas

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Re: 1995 K1100LT - corrective actions
« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2023, 03:52:29 PM »
Being the propeller the rear always goes out first.
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