Another electrical issue ,not so weird (61322305292)

[beemuker]

Still working out the bugs in my K 1100 LT. If I turn the handlebars full left everything cuts out ,just like I was turning off the key. Turn back to center starts right up everything good.?..

[Laitch]

Lift the fuel tank then check the condition of the ignition switch connector and wires to the switch itself.

[Scott_]

Also check the wire from the connection, around the headstock to the switch. I've had mine break right at the switch solder connection, and another wire was ready to break where it went around the headstock in the harness.

[rbm]

Where possible, add more slack to the cables that are going through the frame members of the headstock so that there is no tension on them when you turn the bars.

[frankenduck]

It's probably an issue with the ignition switch wiring at the bottom of the ignition switch. Opened up it looks like this:



In order to remove the connector from the bottom of the switch you need to remove the grub screw. (After removing the red stuff that hides it.)



Here's the part you may need to fix or replace - Part 61322305292



Here's a pic of it connected to an ignition switch:

[beemuker]

The plug and the wires going to it look fine but when I jiggle the wires it cuts out so my problem is probably at the bottom of the ignition switch from what I can tell you have to drillThe bolts out.Is this drilling bushing 510500 necessary. Any other advice appreciated
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/456108/Bmw-K-1100-Lt-Rs.html?page=333

[Scott_]

When I worked on mine, I managed to get the 'grub' screw out and remove the electrical portion without having to remove the hardware switch assy.

[frankenduck]

If you do need to drill it out you don't need the drill bushing. However, in order to keep the bit centered what I do is start by using a smaller drill bit to drill a shallow pilot hole in the center so the that larger drill bit stays centered when you start drilling.

[beemuker]

When I worked on mine, I managed to get the 'grub' screw out and remove the electrical portion without having to remove the hardware switch assy.

on your LT? I can.t even see the grub screw. What did you remove to get at it?

[Scott_]

on your LT? I can.t even see the grub screw. What did you remove to get at it?

Yes, on my '95.
Now your making me think.... and you know what, thinking back and looking at the bike, I didn't remove the grub screw, and didn't drill out the security bolts.
What I did do was to remove the top of the triple tree and work on it that way.
I can see the screw without removing anything, but getting the sealing compound cleaned out and getting a good square fit of a allen-wrench is a challenge. So that's when I decided to just pull the whole thing. I was dead set that I wasn't going to drill out the security bolts and then have to replace them.

[beemuker]

Yes, on my '95.
Now your making me think.... and you know what, thinking back and looking at the bike, I didn't remove the grub screw, and didn't drill out the security bolts.
What I did do was to remove the top of the triple tree and work on it that way.
I can see the screw without removing anything, but getting the sealing compound cleaned out and getting a good square fit of a allen-wrench is a challenge. So that's when I decided to just pull the whole thing. I was dead set that I wasn't going to drill out the security bolts and then have to replace them.

Pull the whole thing? So did you remove the switch by drilling?

[frankenduck]

I was dead set that I wasn't going to drill out the security bolts and then have to replace them.

Drilling out the security bolts is a PITA but you can just replace them with generic M8x25 or M8x30 socket cap bolts. (Which will make any future maintenance much easier.)  It's not like somebody is going to take the fork trees and ignition apart to hotwire a 25 year old K bike so the security bolts really aren't necessary.

[beemuker]

Drilling out the security bolts is a PITA but you can just replace them with generic M8x25 or M8x30 socket cap bolts. (Which will make any future maintenance much easier.)  It's not like somebody is going to take the fork trees and ignition apart to hotwire a 25 year old K bike so the security bolts really aren't necessary.

do you drill a hole in the heads and get them out eith an easyout

[frankenduck]

do you drill a hole in the heads and get them out eith an easyout

No Easy-out required. Once you drill the bolt heads off the ignition assembly will drop out of the fork tree. Then you can use pliers  or Vise-Grips to get the rest of the bolts out.

But if you have Easy-outs on hand you could also do it the way that you describe.

[beemuker]

No Easy-out required. Once you drill the bolt heads off the ignition assembly will drop out of the fork tree. Then you can use pliers  or Vise-Grips to get the rest of the bolts out.

thanks, first time doing this. I wish I discovered this when I had the forks off, would have had more room in there.

[beemuker]

No Easy-out required. Once you drill the bolt heads off the ignition assembly will drop out of the fork tree. Then you can use pliers  or Vise-Grips to get the rest of the bolts out.

But if you have Easy-outs on hand you could also do it the way that you describe.

do I need to remove the triple tree, or is there enough room to get it out? Looks like even with the bars turned , there isn't enough clearance to get it out. I am waiting on my wife to pick up a better drill bit to get those PITA shear bolts out

[frankenduck]

do I need to remove the triple tree, or is there enough room to get it out? Looks like even with the bars turned , there isn't enough clearance to get it out. I am waiting on my wife to pick up a better drill bit to get those PITA shear bolts out

I've never done it on-bike but if there isn't a bunch of crap in the way it should be possible. Here's what the fork trees look like off-bike:

[beemuker]

I've never done it on-bike but if there isn't a bunch of crap in the way it should be possible. Here's what the fork trees look like off-bike:

thanks, there is part of the frame in the way, but with the bars turned, hopefully I can squeak it out, I've got a good bit, I'll know soon.

[beemuker]

I finally got the bolts drilled and the switch does just drop down , about an inch , right on top of the frame.Yes, turning the bars helps, but not enough.  too bad the frigging assembly is 4 inches long. I will have to remove the tree, unless somebody smarter than I has another way? I've about had it with this moto.

[frankenduck]

It's dropping onto the bracket for the fairing, not the frame, correct?

If you loosen the fork pinch bolts on each side of the upper fork tree and then remove the big nut in the center then you MIGHT be able to lift the upper fork tree up enough to get the lock assembly out without having to take much more apart.

[beemuker]

It's dropping onto the bracket for the fairing, not the frame, correct?

If you loosen the fork pinch bolts on each side of the upper fork tree and then remove the big nut in the center then you MIGHT be able to lift the upper fork tree up enough to get the lock assembly out without having to take much more apart.

thanks, I'll try that before I have to disassemble the front fairing.

[frankenduck]

[beemuker]

thanks, unfortunately on my LT there was too much "stuff" in the way to even see the screw. Ended up removing the front fairing so I could move the " tree" out of the way. wasn't too bad as I did'nt need to remove the lowers. The plastic cap is gone so the solder joints were exposed. I take the grub screw out tomorrow and see what the insides look like. Maybe this should be retitled so those with LTs know whats ahead for them with this. My clymer was too generic and said I had to remove the lowers, which was not true. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

[frankenduck]

taybe this should be retitled so those with LTs know whats ahead for them with this.

I already added the part number to the title to make it easier to find when searching.

It's not unique to LTs. K1s, K100RS4Vs and K1100RSs also use the same ignition switch and wiring.

[beemuker]

Got it apart cleaned it got it back together the plastic Protecting the soldered wires is gone should I put some silicone or something on it to keep it from being exposed ?