EDIT Overfueling/Gas and Oil leak exhaust header 1

[Laitch]

. . . it looked good.
Furthermore, it's more unlikely that the coils are damaged if I have confirmed that I have spark on ignition for all three spark plugs right? Or is there something I'm missing here?

What you're missing here is that looks aren't everything, a fact marriage counselors everywhere will confirm.    Testing helps determine fault.

There are always more questions. Is there enough spark? Is it consistently produced? Is there too much fuel or not enough? Are all the injectors pulsing or are some opening but not closing? Is the air filter clogged enough so the fuel mixture has become too rich? Is the vane in the air flow meter not pivoting smoothly or just plain stuck in one position? What is the condition of each plug after a failed starting attempt? Is the fuel filter clogged? Are the fuel lines in the tank tight? Are the line interiors restricting fuel flow? It's just one test after another.

K75 coil resistance is tested by the same method as the K100. Primary wire resistance is approximately 0.8Ω, secondary is approximately 10KΩ.

[fw66]

So got around to disassembling bits of the bike yesterday and pulled the temperature sensor for a test and I think I found the issue.

At room temperature, I'm getting a resistance of 4.2k ohms which is not in spec as it should be 2.5k ohms. This is a clear indicator that the temperature sensor is not working as it should be and potentially a cause to my over fueling problem.

The sensor is sending incorrect data to my EFI that the temperature is almost freezing and probably sending too much fuel into my injectors.

Let me know what you guys think!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yeah, that could do it. 

What is the resistance when the sensor is submerged in boiling water?  Should be a bit less than 250 ohms.

[fw66]

Just tested boiling water resistance and got 0.74 k ohms, also not in spec.
Well now I know the temp sensor isn't working to spec and have a new one coming Tuesday, hopefully this will clear up my problems.

Since I removed the airbox, I have access to the fuel regulator as well. Is there an easy way to test if the regulator is functioning properly?
Would it be beneficial to replace is (my bike is a 1990) anyways to prevent future fueling issues?

[Laitch]

Would it be beneficial to replace is (my bike is a 1990) anyways to prevent future fueling issues?

The easy way to test the fuel pressure regulator is on a running engine using a pressure gauge. If the fuel pressure regulator works, leave it alone. Your replacement FPR could be defective. Spend money on new fuel hoses and a couple of cans of DeoxIT D5.

[rbm]

Whoa!  Hold your horses. Stop the presses.  Exactly where did you measure 4.2K Ohms?  Exactly where did you measure 740 Ohms?  Was it terminal to terminal or was it terminal to body?  There is a big big difference.

To be transparent, you're supposed to measure terminal to body.  If you measure terminal to terminal, you're doing it wrong.

[Laitch]

To be transparent, you're supposed to measure terminal to body. 

How long do you stay transparent when you do that? There are some discussions in town selectboard executive sessions that I've always wanted to hear.

It's too early to start the party, fw. 

[fw66]

Update:
Put the bike back together, new temperature sensor, new HES sensor, changed oil and coolant as well.
Put the new spark plugs I put on brand new just a few weeks ago and the bike fired up, smoked a lot and continued to run. Turned off the bike and the bike won't start again...

Had an extra set of spark plugs, changed all 3, bike fires up and runs super well.

I have no idea what happened but is it possible that the brand new spark plugs that were just replaced about 3 weeks ago got fouled due to water gas mixture and was causing the same poor running/starting issues?

It's strange that I did see sparks on all three when testing them for spark...

[Laitch]

You were asked a Stop-the-presses! question about how you tested the coolant temperature sensor in Reply #30. It would be helpful for you to answer that one and also how you determined that the Hall Effect sensors were faulty. What were the results of the coil test recommended in Post #25?

Could the new plugs have been fouled? Sure and you could get an idea of their condition by looking at them. You should consider testing both the ignition control unit and the fuel injection control unit by the methods described in the troubleshooting guide, a link to which can be found at the end of the first post in the Repair Guidance section.