Author Topic: Thoughts on installing Battery isolator switch? (Read 6934 times)

Gio · « **on:** February 01, 2021, 04:58:57 PM »

Having read some accounts of our starter relays sticking (when battery power low) and causing further problems - am pondering about installing an isolator switch as have a new battery on the way - so a convenient time to install. Of course unlikely to be necessary in the case of a new battery (hopefully!) ... but for some time down the road ..? For the sticking relay scenario am thinking such a switch must be readily accessible ... thoughts?

Laitch · « **Reply #1 on:** February 01, 2021, 05:14:38 PM »

Do it. The task is uncomplicated.

daveson · « **Reply #2 on:** February 01, 2021, 05:25:19 PM »

Yep, do it.

I placed one between the gear box and battery earth wire.

Your local hardware store probably has one. With $10 and in ten minutes it's probably job done.

Some people have had the problem with a good battery. Plus it has some other benefits.

Laitch · « **Reply #3 on:** February 01, 2021, 05:41:19 PM »

You could do it like so.

Chaos · « **Reply #4 on:** February 01, 2021, 10:29:48 PM »

I mounted a Harbor Freight switch, but my K has the airbox delete option, you may have to improvise

Gio · « **Reply #5 on:** February 02, 2021, 08:40:30 AM »

Thanks for replies all (esp Laitch for the link to Martins excellent write-up ... I didn't see this in my admittedly brief search yesterday). Yes - I can see additional benefits to installing ... and particularly like the removable key type from a security perspective. I was thinking behind right side cover (as this is negative side of battery) but not much room with expansion tank there ... and left side better perhaps as fuse box is there.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #6 on:** February 02, 2021, 10:31:42 AM »

I wanted to install a disconnect, and improve the ground cable at the same time. I purchased a couple feet of marine grade #8AWG battery cable which has thinner strands making it more flexible and able to handle vibration better, and the wire is tinned which makes it much more resistant to salt corrosion(important if you ride where they use it on the roads).

Besides the normal terminals for the connection at the battery and the ground screw on the transmission, I installed a 6mm bullet connector used for the battery packs on R/C drones. These are nice machined brass with gold plating and rated for 150 amps.

Connectors.jpg (16.75 kB . 576x576 - viewed 766 times)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/XT150-6MM-Bullet-Connector-Plug-Set-Red-Black-Male-Female-150-Amps/331446365735?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dc8c2d623b2284eecb3469c835b5f82d9%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D283161252775%26itm%3D331446365735%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

I install the connector so it is on the left side of the bike easily reached above the ground connection on the transmission. A light pull and they disconnect killing the electrical system.

A side benefit is that it's easier to pull the ground disconnect apart than removing the ground cable from the battery, so battery removal is a bit easier as well.

Gio · « **Reply #7 on:** February 02, 2021, 10:47:24 AM »

Thanks MG ... an interesting option that would certainly save some space, and yes - lots of salt (all year round) here in the maritimes ..!

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2021, 11:59:45 AM »

If you lengthen the cable enough, you can make it so the disconnect is under the seat. That makes it even easier to get at as well as making it easier to remove the battery. I'm thinking of doing it to my bikes this winter.

Gio · « **Reply #9 on:** February 02, 2021, 01:00:02 PM »

Further food for thought MG ... additional benefits (security / convenience / safety when working on bike etc) aside - primary objective would be to keep all smoke inside the wires in the event of a low-power (or other) starter relay incident and so time / ease of access would be of the essence ...

I'm curious about this potential feature of our sticky starters ... and the time-line for those unfortunate enough to have experienced it ... is it seconds or more like a minute before the smoke escapes I wonder?

Laitch · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2021, 01:15:43 PM »

Quote from: Gio on February 02, 2021, 01:00:02 PM

... is it seconds or more like a minute before the smoke escapes I wonder?

It can be seconds, hence the utility of quick-disconnect systems that have been discussed here.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2021, 01:34:22 PM »

I had the start relay stick once while working on a K100 in my garage.

I estimate that it took me about 45 seconds to realize what was happening, determine what needed to be done, get an Allen wrench and disconnect the ground connection at the transmission. No damage was done. By the time I got the power disconnected, the starter had stopped turning. The starter motor got hot, but not enough to burn when you touched it. No wires melted, and none of the smoke got out.

Martin · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2021, 02:24:27 PM »

Just after I got my 75 over twenty years ago I had my relay stick while doing a nighttime site inspection on the Gateway Motorway. I went to leave and the starter cranked slowly and it didn't fire. When I released the starter button it kept on slowly cranking. I hit the kill button and removed the ignition key to no avail. Before I could work out my next move the side of the battery blew out spraying acid everywhere. I had to hit the work crew up for water to douse the bike and neutralise the acid. I even had to douse my trousers and boots with water. Besides the battery no there was no further damage to either the bike or myself. I then had to get a push start to get the bike home. As far as i know my bike has been the only Brick to have the battery blow out.
Regards Martin.

Gio · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2021, 03:50:31 PM »

Oooer ... that sounds like a bad night at the office Martin (!) and glad to hear it ended (relatively) well for both you and the bike. Even for less extreme scenarios I'm convinced that some form of "quick-ish" disconnect is a good idea ... and planning to do that at same time as battery installation.

Gio

RobP · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2021, 02:47:39 PM »

Perhaps a (metric) threaded knob could be used in place of the stock bolt at the transmission.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2021, 04:00:20 PM »

Hmmm... I like the way you think.

BrickDad · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2021, 09:57:53 AM »

Quote from: RobP on February 03, 2021, 02:47:39 PM

Perhaps a (metric) threaded knob could be used in place of the stock bolt at the transmission.

This is my solution, for both my K bikes.
https://www.tills.de/motorcycle-battery-disconnect-adaptor.html

Gio · « **Reply #17 on:** February 15, 2021, 11:17:57 AM »

Yes - a commonly available solution and one which I have considered ... my only hesitation being ease / speed of disconnection given the objectives. For regular / routine disconnect I think such would work.

BrickDad · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2021, 12:08:46 PM »

This Tills.de disconnect is pretty quick... it takes longer to take the battery side cover off than to twirl out the disconnecting blue-capped connector bolt.

daveson · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2021, 04:53:54 AM »

I think my switch is the same idea as BrickDad's, but on the ugly side cause mine's obviously meant for a battery post.

This is quicker to disconnect than it might seem, since you don't have to remove the bolt, only turn it about one turn.

In the riding position, with gloves on, I can disconnect it in a matter of seconds (and reconnect it)

It's the green knob in the bottom right of the photo.

025.JPG (57.68 kB . 768x576 - viewed 611 times)

koapono · « **Reply #20 on:** February 21, 2021, 09:24:02 AM »

My solution to the dilemma and choices.
Simple on/off, switch is robust and I have had no weather-related issues.
Also installed pig-tail for off season battery charging on each scoot.
Drilled out existing mounting holes to accommodate larger zip-ties.

whatever your final choice it's a wise addition and pretty straight forward installation process.

Gio · « **Reply #21 on:** February 21, 2021, 01:03:49 PM »

All good solutions / ideas - and my thanks again for all input ... I particularly like this last one koapono as looks like it can be accessed without the need to remove side cover? Curious where you may have sourced that - as weather proof-ness would be important in that case. I already have a fused connection for battery tending / heated vest.

koapono · « **Reply #22 on:** February 21, 2021, 02:14:57 PM »

I just did an Amazon search: 12VDC battery disconnect switch.
you'll get an assortment of options.
range in price from 10 dollars to 50 or more.
mine was around 15 dollars US.
I choose one suited for marine application and size, approx 2.5 inches square.
It's not waterproof but given where it's mounted it gets plenty of protection between my leg and the fairing.
I wired it to disconnect the ground side of battery as that was simplest to do.
it fits nicely in crotch of frame, couple zip-ties and some vibration absorbing material makes install a snap.
cheers

AtLarge · « **Reply #23 on:** February 21, 2021, 04:40:49 PM »

Must be this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T288VN8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I like that. Looks like a clean install.

Gio · « **Reply #24 on:** February 21, 2021, 05:02:46 PM »

That looks like it would work nicely - and thinking the "marine" application may account for koapono's good experience of "weather-proofness" of similar on his motos. Connecting to neg / ground side is correct for this application ... the only bad reviews I just read were from folks who simply went by some bad installation pictures apparently (?) and connected + to one side and - to the other and then wondered why their $$$ batteries went up in smoke (sigh) ... it's an in-line switch application so only connect in-line on neg side!

Cheers!

Edit - also, for those of us with the "low" seat fitted, it looks like there would be even more room further up from the crotch in the frame ... as there are no side panels to avoid.

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Author Topic: Thoughts on installing Battery isolator switch? (Read 6934 times)