Tank removal

[Pagman]

I gotta do some rewiring which involves removing the tank. However, my friend and I are having no success in doing this. The Haynes manuel says to remove the two clips at the bottom end by the back of the tank. One side has a rubber boot and the other doesn't (which was most likely lost by a p.o.). I don't see any clips. Most other tanks I removed have visible bolts, but not the beemer. Someone help before I result to forcibly yanking this puppy off! :eek2:

[Rick G]

The early Ks had a single bolt but I think they were gone by 86.  There are two posts welded to the underside of the tank right at thr rear. there go through a rubber grommet and there is a circlip on them to hold them there. The clips are a real pain to get of and put on so most people leave them of. There would be very few bricks that have them still there.
Have a look at this link http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0536&mospid=51711&btnr=16_0242&hg=16&fg=11
Parts 14 & 15 are the grommet and clip.
They most likely aren't there so a solid pull up at the rear of the tank usually gets them up, you are then one step closer to your goal.
If you have a fairing you need to remove the left lower section to get at the fuel lines to release them from the tank then unplug the 4 pin connector which is under the right battery cover and it should pull back and then off.
If the tank has not been of for some tome the rubber grommets are usually stuck to the posts and require a bit off strength.

[Inge K.]

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=535.0

[Pagman]

The early Ks had a single bolt but I think they were gone by 86.  There are two posts welded to the underside of the tank right at thr rear. there go through a rubber grommet and there is a circlip on them to hold them there. The clips are a real pain to get of and put on so most people leave them of. There would be very few bricks that have them still there.
Have a look at this link http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0536&mospid=51711&btnr=16_0242&hg=16&fg=11
Parts 14 & 15 are the grommet and clip.
They most likely aren't there so a solid pull up at the rear of the tank usually gets them up, you are then one step closer to your goal.
If you have a fairing you need to remove the left lower section to get at the fuel lines to release them from the tank then unplug the 4 pin connector which is under the right battery cover and it should pull back and then off.
If the tank has not been of for some tome the rubber grommets are usually stuck to the posts and require a bit off strength.

You were right about the clips. Niether of them were there. They must truly be a K pain if you can predict them missing. The tank was just difficult to release, but I managed pulling it off after reading that it might be stuck. Hence, my wiring became completed. Thanks to you and Rick G. for replying.

[CrashBar]

While you have it off, get some of those quick release connectors and install them on the fuel lines.   Makes taking off the tank a breeze.

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1552

[Lawrence]

$54.89 each for plastic crap that has a dubious history as far as reliability?  You gotta be kiddin' me.

[DRxBMW]

While you have it off, get some of those quick release connectors and install them on the fuel lines.   Makes taking off the tank a breeze.

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1552

Ha, those quick connectors have a well known failure rate, enough said, read carry spares. Wish Cranky Frankie were here to comment on them.

Metric nut driver makes it EASY to remove the fuel line clamps, unless there the "one shot use" OEM BMW Oetiker brand.  Simply cut those off.



If your K has the Oetiker's, R&R with a FI rated clamp !  Important, as pressure spikes will loosen a regular worm type,you have been warned. FI models have a secured nut,second pic.



Loosen the clamp enough so it slides below the nipple, slight twist with a pair of pliers on the line, if it's stubborn upon removal. Only a small amount of gas will dribble out even if the tank is full, NO big deal.

FWIW, I gave up on those silly tank retention C clips years ago. Granted, the tank may separate in a severe crash, but at the point there are"other" issues to worry about.   

[robleyd]

Metal QDs - http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/
p/n's for 5/16 hose: LCD17005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine Coupling Body w/ Viton
       LCD22005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine Coupling Insert w/ Viton

Or Beemer Boneyard apparently does kits http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html maybe one of those might work for a K bike?

[frankenduck]

Just my .02 but I'm not a fan of the quick release connectors either.  In my eyes they are just one more potential point of failure (that can spray fuel onto a hot engine block) and it's not like you need to remove the tank all that often.

[wmax351]

In order to make the tank easier to remove and put back on, add a bit of silicone grease to the rubber bits. Also keeps the rubber from degrading with removal.

Also, to remove the lines, first depressurize the system. Either run the bike with the fuel pump disconnected, suck on the fpr takeoff line, then put 12 volts across the fuel injectors.

Next, clamp the lines with pliers. I pull the input line off of the fuel rail, then (while that is clamped) remove the return line from the tank, and quickly place the outlet line on the return nipple. If the tank is not full, I can usually do it with only a tiny bit of leakage.

[CrashBar]

$54.89 each for plastic crap that has a dubious history as far as reliability?  You gotta be kiddin' me.

Not dubious for me, but I've only logged 85,000 miles with them on...