Author Topic: troublesome fastener removal. (Read 6521 times)

beemuker · « **on:** May 17, 2020, 03:06:14 PM »

This isn't a K question but maybe one of you has run into something similar. I want to remove my battery ( R1100 rs) . I was able to get all the screws out of the side panel except the one going into the tank. Most of the “screws “ were black Phillips head [Duez ? ]] and required a quarter turn . The one I can”t get out is a T25 and stainless, probably replacement. . It acts like the others but has threads. Maybe there is a bolt molded in that,s spinning? I can remove the right side screw and can see metal threads in there. I've posted to oilhead sites but I don't have a solution other than cutting the head off or cutting a slot in the plastic. If I cut the head off I'll be able to remove the panel but am still stuck, literally. the screw is not stripped. ????

Laitch · « **Reply #1 on:** May 17, 2020, 04:52:00 PM »

While I'm waiting for the Dramamine to kick in to stave off vertigo so I can watch your video again, I suggest inserting a screwdriver between the panels to exert some upward force against the screw hoping that would slow the fastener it's engaging from spinning so the screw might have a chance to back out. Spray just a little penetrant neatly on the screw shank first if it can be accessed.

beemuker · « **Reply #2 on:** May 17, 2020, 05:06:27 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on May 17, 2020, 04:52:00 PM

While I'm waiting for the Dramamine to kick in to stave off vertigo so I can watch your video again, I suggest inserting a screwdriver between the panels to exert some upward force against the screw hoping that would slow the fastener it's engaging from spinning so the screw might have a chance to back out. Spray just a little penetrant neatly on the screw shank first if it can be accessed.

thanks. tried this and no luck. can't figure why it's in there so tight unless the previous owner cross threaded it. the other side came right out. I may have to cut a slot in the fairing and slide it out. then see if I can get it out.

Martin · « **Reply #3 on:** May 17, 2020, 05:43:35 PM »

Try drilling or Dremeling the head off.
Regards Martin.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #4 on:** May 17, 2020, 05:49:36 PM »

About the only thing I got from the video is that your T25 socket is really nice and shiny and the bike is red.

I'm looking at the MaxBMW fiche, and as far as I can tell the screw you are having trouble with doesn't go into the fuel tank, but to a "holder" attached to the frame. It looks to be #8 in the drawing, is that correct?

R1100RS.png (40.63 kB . 510x360 - viewed 428 times)

HOLDER.jpg (15.24 kB . 768x576 - viewed 432 times)

beemuker · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2020, 05:56:48 PM »

no, mine definitely goes into a metal insert in the tank. I tried to show the hole on the other [ R] side.

beemuker · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2020, 05:57:53 PM »

Quote from: Martin on May 17, 2020, 05:43:35 PM

Try drilling or Dremeling the head off.
Regards Martin.

yea that gets the panel off, but then what

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2020, 06:11:36 PM »

It appears from the video that the shiny T25 is turning the screw. If indeed it is screwed into the "holder" the thread engagement may not be sufficient to back the screw out when turning it.

Have you tried putting a wedge or a thin piece of wood between the fairing parts to put outward pressure on the head of the screw when it's being turned? That may help the threads back out of the holder if indeed that is what is in there.

Not seeing the actual bike, i can't tell if the "holder" has been replaced with a 6mm "body nut" like those used at the lower end of the fairing side panels on my K75RT. Just looking at the fiche, it looks like they have disappeared and there is no reference to them in the parts list even though shown on the parts diagram. Those "body nuts" had a nasty habit of having the threaded sleeve break loose from the clip it was badly welded to, allowing it to spin with the screw when you tried to take the screw out. All you could do was get behind the clip and grab the sleeve with pliers and hold it while unscrewing.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #8 on:** May 17, 2020, 06:17:49 PM »

The parts diagram I posted is for an R1100RS from 92 to 01. Does it look like what you have. As I mentioned, I think it is, but can't identify anything from the video.

If it is the correct drawing, it appears that part #10 is the fastener you're trying to remove. The diagram show it close to the black bumper(?) I was able to make out in the video.

Laitch · « **Reply #9 on:** May 17, 2020, 11:55:38 PM »

Quote from: beemuker on May 17, 2020, 05:57:53 PM

yea that gets the panel off, but then what

Aren't you trying to remove the panel?

beemuker · « **Reply #10 on:** May 18, 2020, 07:40:58 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on May 17, 2020, 11:55:38 PM

Aren't you trying to remove the panel?

yes, but I will need to reattach it

beemuker · « **Reply #11 on:** May 18, 2020, 07:45:50 AM »

this is not a body clip, the screw goes into the plastic tank, no getting behind it, from looking at the one I removed on the right side it is a molded in nut or something similar.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #12 on:** May 18, 2020, 07:50:07 AM »

So the parts fiche for the R1100RS is wrong? They are usually correct. What model are you working on?

Laitch · « **Reply #13 on:** May 18, 2020, 08:21:52 AM »

It might be what's indicated at the arrow and that could be incorporated into the tank—not separate.

beemuker · « **Reply #14 on:** May 18, 2020, 08:31:12 AM »

Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on May 18, 2020, 07:50:07 AM

So the parts fiche for the R1100RS is wrong? They are usually correct. What model are you working on?

'94R1100RS

beemuker · « **Reply #15 on:** May 18, 2020, 08:34:43 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on May 18, 2020, 08:21:52 AM

It might be what's indicated at the arrow and that could be incorporated into the tank—not separate.

MORE LIKE IT. it's molded in.

natalena · « **Reply #16 on:** May 18, 2020, 09:07:26 AM »

I've seen this before, and the "wedge or screwdriver" trick usually works, if not, then with the small wood wedges in place, it's possible to hacksaw the screw with a fine blade, without messing up the fairing. Another trick that's been successful, is smearing a blob of JB Weld behind the tab if it's a flat nut ... doesn't work if it's a direct threaded tab. Good luck, and it takes a long time to hacksaw the screw, so take your time, tape the fairing, and you'll probably have no scratches. I wouldn't Dremel the slot in the head, as it'll melt the fairing, and it'll still spin.

edit: forgot to mention, once the screw is cut, it's easy to get the offending stud out, or recut new threads.

Laitch · « **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2020, 09:16:31 AM »

More detail.

beemuker · « **Reply #18 on:** May 18, 2020, 09:46:27 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on May 18, 2020, 09:16:31 AM

More detail.

that's it. The last screw on the left side, clearly goes into the tank. I still don't get how I'll get the headless screw out once I get the panel off, it seems really stuck and the I guess I'd have to drill it out and retap if I can't keep the inside part from spinning. I'm going to try the impact wrench suggestion before I cut anything. That stainless can be pretty hard stuff to drill. There is no immediate emergency, The battery seems fine, so I may just wait until I have to remove battery, or tank, or air filter and just enjoy the spring weather and ride.

natalena · « **Reply #19 on:** May 18, 2020, 10:06:56 AM »

Once the screw is cut, if it's been spinning like crazy, the material is most likely eaten up. A U-spring nut will keep the same sizing of screw, or re-tapping is in order. I don't think I'd want to weld material on the tab and re-tap..seems like a lot of work.

beemuker · « **Reply #20 on:** May 18, 2020, 10:13:08 AM »

Quote from: natalena on May 18, 2020, 10:06:56 AM

Once the screw is cut, if it's been spinning like crazy, the material is most likely eaten up. A U-spring nut will keep the same sizing of screw, or re-tapping is in order. I don't think I'd want to weld material on the tab and re-tap..seems like a lot of work.

what would I do. drill out the screw and glue on a u spring nut?

Laitch · « **Reply #21 on:** May 18, 2020, 10:15:22 AM »

Quote from: beemuker on May 18, 2020, 09:46:27 AM

I still don't get how I'll get the headless screw out once I get the panel off,

You can't know until you get there. You might be able to screw it inward turning it clockwise with pressure on it and it will drop out.

beemuker · « **Reply #22 on:** May 18, 2020, 10:20:50 AM »

Quote from: Laitch on May 18, 2020, 10:15:22 AM

You can't know until you get there. You might be able to screw it inward turning it clockwise with pressure on it and it will drop out.

I don't think there is any place for it to drop out of, but you are right , I won't know until I get the panel off.

natalena · « **Reply #23 on:** May 18, 2020, 10:27:12 AM »

Quote from: beemuker on May 18, 2020, 10:13:08 AM

what would I do. drill out the screw and glue on a u spring nut?

Dang-it, just lost the comment detailing.
OK, second try. Once the screw head is cut off, if the screw has been spinning like crazy, it's easy to press it out with needle nose pliers, or a light tap of a drift pin. If the shaft is shaped like a dumbell, it's a matter of filing down the threads and pushing it out, this takes patience. I didn't have patience and crushed the threads with vise grips and drifted the shaft out, easy.

No need to glue the U-spring nut into place, and it's possible with two pliers to bend it into the spacing distance you need, as they don't have to "grip" the tab, just have a 90 degree bend on the edging to prevent it from spinning. Although, I do tend to put a dab of epoxy on them to make assembly easier, but don't count on it to be permanent.

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Author Topic: troublesome fastener removal. (Read 6521 times)