Rear Main Seal Driver Alternatives?

[rkildu]

As part of my currently underway spline lube, it looks like I will be replacing the rear main seal. I have the seal on order and should have in a few days.
I have a tech bulletin #2798 that shows a special driver to insert the seal leaving a 0.5 mm of the new seal sticking out. I am used to driving seal in flush and can handle that, this is more difficult.

Has anyone come up with an alternative tool to do this?

Thanks
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

[Rick G]

I have always used an aftermarket seal which is 2mm narrower than standard and heaps cheaper. I put it in flush and have never had a problem.

[G.Kennedy]

I used the stock seal and a large socket and hammer to drive it in. When it looked like It was sticking out about .5 mil it stopped. Never has dripped a drop. I wasn't to critical about it.

[rbm]

I had to replace the main seal on my K100RS.  I used a BMW seal even though a serviceable aftermarket one was available.  I used a block of wood and plastic mallet to drive in the seal.  I tapped gently and continuously around the perimeter of the seal, making sure all the time that the seal was being driven in evenly.  When I came close to the 0.5mm proud stage, I used calipers to measure the protrusion.  I wanted to be as accurate as possible. Time efficiency was not a concern so having the proper tool would have been faster but not more accurate. I got a quote from a local machine shop to turn a proper tool from plastic and it was expensive; hence the block of wood method.

[rkildu]

I've been thinking about this.  I have the specs on the driver but I don't have a lathe or any metal working equipment. I do have a wood shop,  still no lathe, and have been thinking about trying to make something out of hard wood.  I can cut round pieces on the band saw and make everything except the 0.5 mm relief.  I think I can make up some shims to glue around the edges, it doesn't have to be a complete circle, out of metal can stock.  After all,  it only has to work once.

Thanks

Rod

[rbm]

I think I can make up some shims to glue around the edges,

How about using several pan head wood screws?  Select an example with a head thickness of exactly 0.5mm.  Take twenty or so of them and drive them into your wooden tool around the periphery spaced slightly apart until you have a complete circle of them.

[rkildu]

Here is my home made bearing driver.  I think it will work,  I'll let you know.







Rod

[rkildu]

I am pleased to report that my creation worked like a champ!  When I removed the old seal it started dripping oil, so I had to install the new one immediately.  I got the new seal started evenly all around with a rubber mallet, switched to the seal driver and drove it home. It has a nice even lip protruding as intended.  It's a good thing I had it ready.

Now I can start putting the darned thing back together!

Rod

[Rick G]

Now thats what I call good thinking and ingenuity. Top shot.

[tsbt]

Here is my home made bearing driver.  I think it will work,  I'll let you know.

Hey Rod, how did you get the old one out? Mine's pretty stuck I think the sealant is mega-stuck. Did you use sealant when you put back in a new one in?

Chris

[Photog]

A seal puller, it hooks under the lip of the seal and pops it right out.

This is the one I used;
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=358&division=1&category=7

A good auto parts store should have one.

No sealant needed, just make sure the surfaces are clean and drive the new one in.

[Duc750]

Mine just disentegrated using a seal puller but was still stuck fast! In the end I used a slide hammer (or a home brew version)

Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!