Das Brick: 93 K75 S Renovation

[Martin]

I think the large hole behind the "C" pin/post hole could be eliminated leaving a hacksaw cut from the small hole to the "C" clip post/pin hole. There is a hacksaw cut between these two holes but it's hard to see in the picture. If I ever find a piece of correct thickness stainless steel sheet I'll probably make a couple for my Brick. I had visions of attaching a thin piece of nylon cord so I wouldn't loose them.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have put small cable ties on the C clips for the seat hinges and the tanks on all my bikes. 

They not only make it easy to pull them off and keep from losing them, but the cable ties make good handles to make installing the clips, especially on the tank and the rear hinge on the seat, a lot easier.

[daveson]

 Now I'm going to sort the wheat from the chaff and go straight to the crux of the matter, those cable ties, what colour are they?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Now I'm going to sort the wheat from the chaff and go straight to the crux of the matter, those cable ties, what colour are they?

What do you think??? 


...it's the little things you gotta watch.

[daveson]

Hopefully they're not black,
cause then you should be stretched out on a rack.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

First decent proving run today, 60 miles’ worth. I’m surprised at the acceleration in fifth gear at these altitudes, pretty impressive. I had a few rider-induced issues but I figured those out. The MYRP worked fairly well, had neck pain when I started but no worse when I got back. And no back pain.

The ride was pretty good, even with older Battlax’s on it. The 5 wt in the forks seems to be what it needs, and the stock rear shock rode well with my 175-ish lbs riding weight. Bike went where I pointed it, no head shakes, no wobbles, no notchiness.

On to the issues. The bike is VERY hard to start when it’s warm. I have to open the throttle about halfway, return to idle and eventually coughs and starts. Once running it settles to a decent 900-1000 rpm. And it may or may not be sluggish below 2500 rpm. Too new to me to know. About 3000 rpm it accelerates impressively.

The front master cylinder is spewing from somewhere. I replaced the cap but suspect a hairline crack that I can’t discover. I’ve got a new reservoir, baffle, and o-ring in my Max cart but I’ll take this one apart before ordering. The bike did have a run-in with my lift and subsequently the concrete a few weeks back, may be something cracked in the mount.

I reconnected the ABS I in the hopes of getting it operable, but so far no soap. And the symptoms keep changing. I could info dump here but I won’t till I look into it some more. I’m glad I just filled the tank since it’s gotta come off for troubleshooting and to keep the DOT 4 off it. Happy Spring all.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Bike looks pretty good.  I like that color and the chrome heat shield on the exhaust.

Because of the MAF sensor, altitude doesn't really affect the fuel injection like a carbureted engine.  I'm convinced the high altitude plug is just for the emission control. 

Hard starting when hot may indicate an air leak.  You might want to go back and check all the inlet connections and the breather z tube.  Normally, a K bike starts at the first spark when it's hot.  It shouldn't take more than one revolution of the crankshaft.

Have you read out the codes on the ABS?  That will give you a pretty good idea of where to look when troubleshooting.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

I was thinking along the lines of an air leak myself. The clamps I used are screw-type versus the special tool needed OEM version, might be something there. I replaced the z tube since it was cracked, but going to look everything over. As for the altitude plug, I'll be doing test runs with and without it. This one was with.

I've been studying all the ABS stuff on the site and elsewhere basically since I got the bike. The code that was initially set on first check was "2", but it reset. Code "6" is the current code with numerous reset attempts of different times with different grounds. I pulled the ABS relay indicated by the code with no changes, swapped in another relay, same results. Now the ABS light won't blink but stays steady. As I said, lots of investigating in store.

I'll pull the tank so I can get eyes on the relay box, might be something amiss in there. Also a good sitdown with the schematics again this evening, see if maybe I left or pulled unplugged some connection somewhere.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Found a few loose clamps on the airbox where it mounts to the intake manifolds so hopefully that was the cause of the hard strating when hot issue.

Unable to reset the "6" ABS code no matter how many times I try. It's for the ABS relay. I have two and both test okay. I have good continuity on the wires going from the control unit to the relay, the ABS switch works when used to make the ABS light go steady. I jumpered from pin 37 to 80 and when I do I have power at the ABS modulator plugs. The troubleshooting guide I downloaded is pointing to the ABS control unit.

Them's pricey, anyone got a spare for a loan program or outright sale? I'll pay shipping both ways if you want it back. Just need to verify my unit. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Are your relays the big blue ones?  They have something special about them that isn't clear in any of the documentation I've seen.  If you try to substitute a similar relay it won't work.

Are you actually jumpering pins 30 and 87?  I think those are the numbers for the relay's contacts.

Have you gone to Toshi's website for ABS brains? 

http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/index.html

I seem to recall that he has posted the start up sequence of the system.  It would be interesting to see if the brain is sending a test signal to the relay during startup.  I would put a 12V test LED into the relay socket terminals for the relay coil(85 & 86) and see if it flashes when the bike is turned on and started. 

A couple years ago, I had a problem with the ABS on a bike I bought throwing a brain fault code.  No matter what I did it wouldn't reset.  I think Toshi told me to unplug the brain and let it sit for a day or two and then try again.  It corrected the problem and the ABS has worked properly ever since.  He told me that he does this because people send him "bad" brains that are okay when they get to him in Japan.  I suspect there is a capacitor in the unit someplace that needs to completely discharge to erase some faults.

I wonder if anybody else has had this happen to them.

[volador]

The ABS 1 diagnostic & testing guide has some different pin configurations for testing http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13450.0.html

You have a link to your troubleshooting guide?

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Thanks for the reply Mighty G. Yes, pins 30 and 87 were jumpered, and I had bought a heated grip batch on ebay that included relays and a power plug, so swapping correct blue relay for correct blue relay. I also used a 9v battery on the relays and verified solenoid operation and continuity across 85/86 with power applied.

I've been to Toshi's site a few times already but will revisit. Right now I'm going to pop downstairs and remove the plug from the control unit and let it sit for a few days. Maybe that will do it. The circuit board inside looks pristine, no corrosion or loose solder that I could see.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

The ABS 1 diagnostic & testing guide has some different pin configurations for testing http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13450.0.html

You have a link to your troubleshooting guide?

The very one I was referencing, very useful I think. 

[Rcgreaves]

Capacitor!! +1

[Bon Jon Bovi]

So a little more troubleshooting to be done on ABS. There's some things to try that Toshi recommends first before shipping the control unit to Japan. And ¥20000 comes to around $185 in today's US Dondon dinero and boxes can be had for that on fleecebay, albeit in unknown condition.

I bought some Deoxit to use on the modulator connectors; Toshi says corrosion there may cause an unresettable ABS relay code, which is what I got. The battery is a fully-charged agm installed last June by the PO, but I'm going to swap in an extra that I have and try another reset.

We're off in a few on another fun-filled search for toilet paper and hand wipes. It's supposed to be made in this country still, but I reckon them aliens over in Roswell are abducting the stuff as it enters the state. Lots of reports of missing Wallyworld trucks going around...

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Finally got the ABS error code to reset by using the mA setting of the multimeter as per Toshi's post. I also cleaned the modulator plugs using contact cleaner from O'Reilly's while I wait for the DeoxIT to arrive in the mail; it caused the seals around the pins to swell but they are slowly shrinking back to size so no more of that stuff.

I also swapped out the batteries and the ABS reset switch so multiple things done. There's no telling what actually worked. There might still be issues, as I'm not hearing the little chirps from the modulators that Toshi mentions. I can force them by jumping pins 30 and 87 at the relay receptacle, but don't hear them with everything in their normal running positions. I'll do a little more checking tonight but leave most of this till tomorrow. Anyway, progress 

Another win today, scored two 12-roll packs of toilet paper! 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Finally got the ABS error code to reset by using the mA setting of the multimeter as per Toshi's post.

I also cleaned the modulator plugs using contact cleaner from O'Reilly's while I wait for the DeoxIT to arrive in the mail; it caused the seals around the pins to swell but they are slowly shrinking back to size so no more of that stuff.

Great news on finally getting a reset!

Get rid of that contact cleaner.  It has solvents that eat plastic and paint.  If you use anything from the auto parts store make absolutely sure it is Electronics Cleaner and the label says "safe for plastics".  CRC makes an Electronics Cleaner that I've used.  It's safe, but only cleans off dirt and oil, it doesn't clean the connections like Deoxit. 

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Used this:

[Rcgreaves]

Life’s comforts take many forms... which brought this outstanding pic to mind:

A lot of great images of Sir Stirling Moss this past week- just photobomb your mug in his place with the caption:  Step aside Bricker Punk, ABS Master coming through”.

Progress!  Bravo!

Ps: photo 2 is Moss in the - Cloudcroft Climb  to Dizzying Altititude TP Hill Climb Run.  And No that’s not a typo... Cheers.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Ps: photo 2 is Moss in the - Cloudcroft Climb  to Dizzying Altititude TP Hill Climb Run.  And No that’s not a typo... Cheers.

Invititational. You forgot Invititational.


“Crumpets, invited too!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Used this:

Wow, that's the stuff I use.  Never had a problem.

[volador]

RC surely knows how to liven up a thread

[Rcgreaves]

“We have standards”

[Bon Jon Bovi]

With those twin oversize pistons, I bet she's fast! Now, back to the thread at hand...
 

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Short update. I have two issues still to sort. The ABS is still on holiday, but doesn't match any other problems I've read about with it. No codes coming from the control unit, but after the ABS and monitor lights go out, both start flashing again pretty quickly and cannot be reset with the switch. I have to cycle the ignition switch to get the cancel function for the lights back, but after the lights go out and come back on they won't respond to the ABS cancel switch. And still no codes set in the brain box.

Issue number 2nd is luggish throttle response until over 2000 revs, at which point the old gal takes off like I'd expect. I had found some vacuum leaks (loose clamps  ) and fixed, TBs synced using the mixture screws. Removed the spark plugs; #2 was black with soot, 1 & 3 are not as clean as they should be but not really sooty. I found a sync procedure link here to the K100 site that has a way to check to see if someone has mucked about with the butterfly screws, but truthfully I haven't even looked at valve clearance or compression yet, so I'll start there. Avoided those since the bike only has 16k on it, and Chris Harris says he rarely if ever sees clearance out on 2-valve Bricks.

I couldn't find any guidance on initial setting of the mixture screws like the R1100RT has, although the K100 link suggested seating then one full turn out as a base setting. Doing that, #1 and 2 are within a quarter turn of each other, while #3 is at least half a turn farther out. TBs were removed and thoroughly cleaned while waiting for new plenum rubbers.