1987 K100LT Resto - from bits to brick

[Laitch]

But I did and was surprised it was DHL checking if I received two boxes of parts from the great white north that were shipped to me in JULY!  I did but really?  From July?  Sigh, moving on...

They were likely backtracking during an investigation of diverted shipments.

[FlatSix]

Howdy folks.  Alas I am awaiting parts again and I have a knack for ordering parts that need to come from Germany it seems. 

Nevertheless I did get some work done on assembling the forks and refinishing the center stand.  I am getting near needing to put the electrical in so there is that, plus I have been dreaming (literally) about color for the bike.  I am not entirely sold on the original color.  Been considering some blues.  Started cleaning up and polishing the exhaust.  I think I overdid it on one of the pipes using a brass wire wheel.  May have to get a new one and try another approach.  I did get some stainless exhaust studs but attempting to remove the first old stud proved difficult and I think I might just leave the original ones where they are and not tempt fate.

Broke a fuel tap off in the tank on the Triumph so pulled the tank and now thinking of repainting it as well, maybe maroon...

Dave

[SpecialK]

How did you support the bike to get the center stand off? Put blocks under the oil pan?
Was the stand hard to get off and how are you refinishing it?
I want to do mine that's why I ask. Thanks

[Rcgreaves]

Wouldn't two saw horses with a spanning 2x6 under the seat frame be the ticket as with when doing a spline service?  Theres some good pics on the site. I run a screw through the loop into the board to lock it in place.

[FlatSix]

How did you support the bike to get the center stand off? Put blocks under the oil pan?
Was the stand hard to get off and how are you refinishing it?
I want to do mine that's why I ask. Thanks

My bike is currently on a small wood cart with wheels that I made for the refurb project.  The stand wasn't difficult to remove at all.  I would have it back on the bike already except that I was missing one of the bushing circlips and it's on order with a bunch of other stuff.  I refinished it with Rustoleum "professional grade" truck bed coating from Wally-world.  The stuff is reasonable durable.  Good luck with your project.

[Rcgreaves]

With reference to your wooden cart imagery:  “ bring out your dead”

[daveson]

Hi FlatSix,
I admire your attention to detail and patience on this. I spose with this much of a rebuild, it's a bonus you bought your brick in bits.

Another way to remove the centre stand is to simply lean your bike against a wall and unbolt it.  Use wheel chocks,  and if you want to get real anal about it engage the steering lock, so things don't go pear shaped that way.  A more simple way than using the steering lock would be to build an upside down table shaped, wheel and bike retaining system from a few pieces of plywood and 4 by 2's (2 by 4's in the good ol U S of A)

[FlatSix]

Hi FlatSix,
I admire your attention to detail and patience on this. I spose with this much of a rebuild, it's a bonus you bought your brick in bits.

I hear ya mate.  I did enter this endeavor willingly.  The thing that stumps me sometimes is that I didn't disassemble the bike, and having never owned a brick, I find I don't exactly know how everything came apart and how to put it back.  I mean, I will figure it out but with other bikes and cars I have taken them apart and made mental notes on what goes where and in what order.  C'est la vie...

Been staring at my F'd up front fairing and trying to decide if it's worth fixing or should I just get another.  I should point out that the fairing has another previous repair where it attaches to the front bracket that I'm not really happy with either.

[Rcgreaves]

I purchased my 75S with fairing damage. Though tedious I did extensive fiberglass restoration, (better results generally than ABS)  and liked the results.  Feel free to call over the holiday if you need fiberglassing insites? Glad to entertain Brick inquiries anytime..6087261554

[The Mighty Gryphon]

One thing I learned after several repairs is that they should be done with epoxy instead of polyester resin.  The reason is that the BMW fairing parts are made using bulk molding compound that has a wax mold release agent incorporated in the material.  This wax prevents a strong bond with the repair.  Epoxy creates a stronger bond. 

While the repair with polyester looks real nice, and can bond fairly well, over time or in a repeat accident, the repair patch will release from the part.  It won't be as strong as a repair made with epoxy.

[FlatSix]

I purchased my 75S with fairing damage. Though tedious I did extensive fiberglass restoration, (better results generally than ABS)  and liked the results.  Feel free to call over the holiday if you need fiberglassing insites? Glad to entertain Brick inquiries anytime..6087261554

Thanks Rcgreaves.

One thing I learned after several repairs is that they should be done with epoxy instead of polyester resin.  The reason is that the BMW fairing parts are made using bulk molding compound that has a wax mold release agent incorporated in the material.  This wax prevents a strong bond with the repair.  Epoxy creates a stronger bond. 

While the repair with polyester looks real nice, and can bond fairly well, over time or in a repeat accident, the repair patch will release from the part.  It won't be as strong as a repair made with epoxy.

I work with Epoxy quite a bit, so that would be my preference.  Really not looking forward to doing this work. 

[FlatSix]

Managed to get her off the little cart and onto the wheels.  Starting to look like a bike now!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Fork boots!!!  You need fork boots.  Gotta hide those shiny fork tubes. 

Still, it's gonna be a beautiful piece of machinery.  Nice work!!!

[FlatSix]

Fork boots!!!  You need fork boots.  Gotta hide those shiny fork tubes. 

Still, it's gonna be a beautiful piece of machinery.  Nice work!!!

Darn! those shiny naked tubes must be stopped...

Thanks for the reminder TMG.  Will be on the next order.

[FlatSix]

Will these work on my '87?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K75RT-K75-RT-1-92-OEM-Heated-Throttle-grips/323912108129?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D2aafe780dc9a4bf3ba80afbb0e678704%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D132530119617%26itm%3D323912108129%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aaa6d0153-1de8-11ea-99a1-74dbd18097b4%7Cparentrq%3A00fce63216f0a9e47650636cffb6373a%7Ciid%3A1

[volador]

Will these work on my '87?

Maybe if you have the rest of the heated grip components: HG type handlebars specific with or without bar ends, harness, HG switch

61312300383 SET: RETROFIT KIT, HEATED HANDLE This kit only applies to models that do not have bar end weights.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383

HG handlebar has a hole on the bottom tube in-between upper fork brace handlebar clamps for routing grip wires through connect under the fuel tank
Clutch side has 2- small holes tapped to hold clutch side grip in place
retrofit regular type handlebar after drilling 3 holes I believe is in the kit instruction manual

[FlatSix]

Maybe if you have the rest of the heated grip components: HG type handlebars specific with or without bar ends, harness, HG switch

61312300383 SET: RETROFIT KIT, HEATED HANDLE This kit only applies to models that do not have bar end weights.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383

HG handlebar has a hole on the bottom tube in-between upper fork brace handlebar clamps for routing grip wires through connect under the fuel tank
Clutch side has 2- small holes tapped to hold clutch side grip in place
retrofit regular type handlebar after drilling 3 holes I believe is in the kit instruction manual

Thanks so much for the reply.  Will the grips work if I have the other components (wiring, harness and switch)?

Here are my handlebars.  There seems to be the hole in the bottom tube between the handlebar clamps.  It might be difficult to see in the picture.

Sorry don't mean to be dense, just some of the parts were sold off the bike before I got it.  I would like to add the HG option if possible. 

[Laitch]

. . . some of the parts were sold off the bike before I got it.  I would like to add the HG option if possible.

Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.

You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link.

[volador]

The above grips Ebay link I'm venture to say will not work with your bar end weight handlebar. Current seller listings show LT/RT type handlebar without bar end weights. Heated grips part #s of the with and without bar end weights are different. Whether or not there is a design difference of the grip wire location corresponding to that bar end weight anchor/sleeve cutout I don't know.

If you're a gambling person make seller an offer and find out.

otherwise 61312300382
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300382

[The Mighty Gryphon]

You probably don't want to hear it, but from my experience, if the bike doesn't have heated grips, they aren't worth the hassle to install them.  You would be better served with heated gloves. 

I say this because I have found heated grips to be okay to heat my palms, but they do very little to keep the rest of my hands warm when riding in cold weather. You would be better served by a heated jacket liiner and gloves.  They have the advantage of being able to warm your core along with your hands, and they are able to be used with every bike you own along with any in the future.

[volador]

A sleek pair of Kappa KS603 hand protectors in lieu of Vetter Hippo Hands

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf

[FlatSix]

Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.

You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link.

You make a very good point.  I honestly do not want to cobble anything together on this bike unless I have no option.

Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.

You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link.

At this point I think I will take a pass on the Ebay ones.  Mosts likely go with some new ones.

You probably don't want to hear it, but from my experience, if the bike doesn't have heated grips, they aren't worth the hassle to install them.  You would be better served with heated gloves. 

I say this because I have found heated grips to be okay to heat my palms, but they do very little to keep the rest of my hands warm when riding in cold weather. You would be better served by a heated jacket liiner and gloves.  They have the advantage of being able to warm your core along with your hands, and they are able to be used with every bike you own along with any in the future.

I didn't think about that but you are right, heated gloves and jacket liner would do a much better job of keeping me warm. 

A sleek pair of Kappa KS603 hand protectors in lieu of Vetter Hippo Hands

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf

At first I thought "well that's just weird looking" but upon reflection it does look to be a very effective option.  And not very expensive.  Thanks

[FlatSix]

I changed the oil and filter this weekend along with installing a new sight glass for the oil level.  The old one was pretty blurry and yellow.  Simple stuff really.  The installed filter was of course a different size than the new Bosch one I got from Euromotoeletrics or MaxBMW, I can't recall.  After donating a few bucks to the cuss jar I got the old one out with a piece of bike tube and an oversized wrench.

Also started refreshing the handlebar parts.  Cleaned the switches and installed a new turn button on the left switch.  I should have taken a "before" picture as it was really mucky.  But looking pretty good now.

Had to throw on the tail section and seat because, well just gotta see her come together.  Just a temporary placement.  The seat is coming apart so I need to have a plan on where to get it redone.

[alabrew]

Can you give a little more detail in how you cleaned up the switches? I'm not making much progress.

[cycleman]

I ride in a cold climate and heated grips are the only way to go.  I've bought bikes with Oxford Heated Grips and they work every bit as good as the BMW factory ones, just that you don't have the hidden wiring. You have to figure out where & how you want the wiring to work at the grips before you cement them in place.  I used the Oxford Heated Grips for Sport bikes, on my K100RT, closest length to stock and they are designed to work with bar end weights.  They have different lengths and most of them are trim able for length. Check them out.

Heated jackets or vests also work well, but I find if I have heated grips and a fairing I can get away with just the heated grips and layers of polyester clothing under my riding jacket & pants.  I always carry a spare set of gloves with me.

With respect to the fuel cooler you might wish to relocate the Fuel Pressure Regulator as well to get it out of the heat soak behind the throttle bodies. With it moved and the fuel rail and hoses insulated with reflective material used in car racing etc, comes in various lengths and diameters as well as flat sheets that you can use on the tank, it will greatly cut down on the heat in the gas tank.  Check out a place that supplies the racing fellows.  If you are not going to put the fairing lowers on then you can get away with out any of the above.  Check this site or the web for descriptions of those that have modified the fuel hoses etc.

If you check at a body shop supply place they have some fiberglass fillers stuff, with Kevlar,  that comes in a squeezable bag and you just add hardener, it is designed for plastic.  I've used it to rebuild fenders and small tabs on side panels with excellent results. This stuff sets up quickly and gets hard as a rock when it cures, so you want to do some preliminary filling before it hardens fully. Read the directions. You crack looks pretty big so you would need a layer of something like fiberlgass on the inner side, to support it.

You've done a good job and keep going.