Wiring melt down

[Filmcamera]

I went for a ride today just to give the BMW a run since it has not seen much use since I got my Street Triple.


The bike ran fine until the very moment I got home, I parked the bike and moved the handlebars all the way to the left at which point smoke came out near the dash and the engine died.


I quickly discovered the left hand switch control had suffered a fairly major short.  I have isolated the faulty wires so I can replace them but cannot for the life of me remove the male and female plugs from the connectors.  Can someone please tell me how to do it?

[Martin]

You can get connector pin extractors on Ebay. I have a just ordered a set so I can remove the 4 pin connector to my fuel tank as one wire has broken off, probably from overzealous crimping. There are numerous types of connectors hence the multiple types, however some cannot be removed.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11-18X-Terminal-Removal-Tool-Car-Electrical-Wiring-Crimp-Connector-Pin-Extractor/382662628860?hash=item59187855fc:m:m6pYSDR8pHiNSERX4uM0LRw

Regards Martin.

Pin extractor.jpg (1.37 kB . 64x64 - viewed 525 times)

[Filmcamera]

Great thanks, I have ordered some.  Next question, is it possible to buy replacement male and female pins I can use with the new wiring?

[natalena]

Yes, the 4-pin waterproof connectors can be eBay'd also. I got a 10 pack (4-pin) for less than $15.00, and it comes with the male/female connectors. The brand is MUYI enterprises, but I'm sure there's others that are waterproof too. ** Stokester had some extras a while back, worth sending him a PM.

[Filmcamera]

I was hoping to retain the original OEM connectors and just use new pins where needed, or maybe re-use the old pins? If not then replacing the 8 pin oem with 2 four pin should work for sure.

[natalena]

If Stokester already gave his away, give me a PM and I'll send a set down to you.

[Martin]

FC as to just replacing the pins, I tried to just buy the pins ended up having to buy the whole thing. I'll just use one out of the new connector and leave the rest for spares. We're limited on electrical supply shops to mainly Jaycar however I have found another one, so I'll give them a go. Neither Jaycar or the other shop had pin extractors. I don't know what resources you have access to but I'd try local auto electricians.  While I'm waiting for the pin extractor tools I bridged the wire with a short length of wire and a couple of 240v household wiring screw type connectors.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BP-SINGLE-SCREW-CONNECTORS-JAR-of-100-2MM-x-6MM-240V-ELECTRICAL-WIRE-JOINERS/291749963320?epid=1669106684&hash=item43eda72638:g:t~cAAOSwiYFXIVkp:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!4509!AU!-1 They come in handy for emergency use and don't damage the wire.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

Thanks Martin, here in CR access to most stuff is pretty limited, almost everything has to be ordered on the internet and shipped down.  Luckily, I actually replaced the original loom after I brought the bike and still have the old one so on that side I can probably just cut all the wires and solder in the connector.  The switch gear side is tougher, I might try soldering in new wire there as well it is just that at least one of the wires had the shroud melt all the way to the pin.  I will bodge it for now and see how it goes! Wish me luck, I hate soldering!

[Filmcamera]

Excuse my ignorance but is the majority of the wiring in the loom 22 awg or 18 or something else? I am going to order some and want to make sure I get the right gauge.

[rbm]

The majority is 0.5mm², or 20 AWG stranded, though there are also 0.75mm², or 18 AWG.  Check the schematic to see whether the wire you're planning to replace is 0.75mm² or 0.5mm².  For reference, see the attached schematic which has the wire gauge noted against each wire.

[Filmcamera]

Thanks, I did look at the wiring diagrams in my Clymer before posting the question but it does not seem to show the wire gauge, or more likely I do not know how to read the schematic properly.  The one you posted is too low res for the gauge to be legible.


Basically the wiring I have to replace LHS switch gear wiring including the headlight wire which looks like a thicker gauge than the rest. I will buy some 18 awg and some 20 awg, that way I have both for future jobs as well.

[Scott_]

The headlight wiring should be 1.0mm, all 6 wires. Of the remaining 3 wires, 2 will be .5mm and the common brown wire will be .75mm.

Per BMW's slp wiring diagrams.

[Filmcamera]

Great thanks

[rbm]

... The one you posted is too low res for the gauge to be legible.

Ooo, yech!  You're right.  The MB site killed the resolution because I swear the original JPEG was hi-res.  I'll post a different link below:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1J5waA1gcBknatEtHhuTjmSl3Conag5ot

[Filmcamera]

That is much higher resolution but it is not the wiring diagram, it is an early K fuel level indicator circuit board. I really appreciate you trying to help, can you try one more time? If the resolution was legible that wiring diagram would be really useful.

[Filmcamera]

This morning I fixed all the melted wire so all the connections are fine again.


However the bike still has multiple electrical issues.  I am assuming some things are burnt or shorted or soemthing.


these are the symptoms.


Bike starts and runs fine but


No headlight
No horn
Manual fan switch not working
Extra driving lights I added not working


Turn indicators work when I use the hazard switch but if I press either left or right turn signal both turn indicator lights flash whilst I hold down the button but go off as soon as I let go.


All the fuses are fine.


I am not very good with electrics, does any one have suggestion as to how I should start trying to diagnose the issues?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Double check all the bike's ground wiring(the brown wires), especially any that may be associated with the handlebar switches and lighting.

From what you describe, I would suspect something around the headlight in the front fairing.  Start there and work your way back.  Check for 12V at all the positive connections to the lights and horn.  That will tell you if it is a power supply or ground problem.

[daveson]

Actually, if your lucky,  simply the load shed relay has failed, as in permanently open. If so swapping it with the horn relay could result in everything working except the horn. I'm assuming your extra goodies are connected through this system. Although it's hard to have confidence in the horn too, since it's switch is also on the left.

[Filmcamera]

Great call Daveson, I swapped out the load shed relay with a  spare I had and everything works perfectly again.


Thank you very much!

[daveson]

Delighted,  I'm glad it was a quick fix. 

Isn't it great how a bloke with a brick from some small town somewhere,  can share an idea with another brick brother or sister,  at just about any other point on the planet! And to an exotic sounding  place like Costa Rica to boot!

[Filmcamera]

It really is amazing. I have gone from never having worked on a bike ever before in  my life to having basically rebuilt my brick from the ground up all because of Motobrick.com and the members.  The interweb is good for more than just porn! Who knew!! LOL


Thanks again


CR is pretty exotic but there again Australia seems exotic as well from here.