Author Topic: installing progressive springs  (Read 3126 times)

Offline Eville Rich

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installing progressive springs
« on: April 08, 2019, 10:20:10 AM »
Hello,

I'm in the process of continuing to "refresh" my 1987 K75S that I purchased last summer. Currently I'm focusing on the front end, with the current job being the changing of fork oil and installation of progressive springs. I have the Clymer manual as a resource and haven't quite been able to get the confirmation I'm looking for through searches.

The progressive springs are from donor forks from a gent who had an unfortunate get-off (also a 1987 K75S). I'm looking to install those springs on my bike. I'm taking the damaged fork tubes apart one at a time so I can learn as I go. I got the top cap off the first tube and was hoping to confirm the correct order of things:  I found underneath the cap two plastic tubes (I think the "distance tubes" per Clymer). I then found a relatively short spring (maybe 4 inches) that is linear wound. Under that is a much longer spring that is progressively wound. The Clymer diagram is a bit unclear and realoem seems to have something different.  Before I go and reassemble things, I'm hoping someone can confirm the proper order of things.

Hoping someone can help with a couple of other questions:
1) Is there a difference between the left and right forks for an '87 K75s?  I have no way of knowing which is right or left from the donor forks.

2)  I'm wondering about the best procedure for working on my forks.  Can I do the spring replacement without removing the forks?  In doing this, I'm thinking of:

a) Drain oil from the bottom (after removing fill bolt)
b) Compress top cap (I'm worried this will be difficult as I'll be pushing against both the top and bottom as I attempt to compress the fork cap)
c) Fish out the various distance tubes and springs, letting each fork compress slowly
d) Reassembling reverse of removal with the "new" springs
e) Fill with oil
f) Close it off and test it out.

Alternatively, I remove the fork tubes and do it on a bench.  With only 30k miles on the bike I'm not yet looking to do a full rebuild of the forks and want to avoid creating new problems.  My current forks do not leak.

Thanks for any help/advice/critique!

Eville Rich
  • WI, USA
  • 1987 K75S

Offline johnny

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Re: installing progressive springs
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2019, 10:26:06 AM »
greetings...

it can be done like that... however its best to replace the top and bottom bushings at the same time...

the left fork is proally different from the right fork...

what brand springs are they...

i have done it on 2 eleven hunderts...  butts the 75 is different...

the 75 has possible 3 diffetent forks... you gotts the standard forks or the sport forks or what...

j o
  • :johnny i parks my 96 eleven hundert rs motobrick in dodge county cheezconsin  :johnny

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: installing progressive springs
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2019, 10:31:34 AM »
Personally, I am avoiding at all cost the internals of the forks on my bricks.  Judging from the sections on front suspension in every manual I have seen, BMW has never made two bikes with the same forks.  In fact, in many cases they diidn't even use the same fork tube on both sides. 

I would avoid any recommendations from another owner.  Chances are their forks are nothing like yours. 

Just take them apart, one at a time and very carefully photograph every part as it comes out and then arrange them in the order they came out and photograph the entire lot.  Maybe, if you are very lucky, you will be able to match what you have with one of the hundreds(thousands?) of different forks BMW used.
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Current:
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Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Laitch

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Re: installing progressive springs
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2019, 12:08:45 PM »
Alternatively, I remove the fork tubes and do it on a bench.  With only 30k miles on the bike I'm not yet looking to do a full rebuild of the forks and want to avoid creating new problems.

. . . I'm worried this will be difficult . . . 
As has been indicated by TMG, laying out the parts in assembly order for each fork tube is important. I disagree with avoiding disassembly. Clean assemblies with parts in good condition are essential for a safe and reasonably comfortable ride. Disassembly is the way to inspect and clean them. As with most mechanical work, orderliness and patience are essential.

The left/right orientation of tubes is determined by their contents according to drawings supplied by Clymer and the BMW service manual downloadable from this site. The Showa tubes have identical left and right contents. If the tubes' contents don't square up with any drawing then decisions must be made. It's possible the tubes and their contents aren't original and have been modified, substituted or just sloppily reassembled. As TMG's hyperbole has indicated, variation possibilities are infinite.

I disassemble and reassemble one fork tube at a time so parts will not be intermingled from one tube to the other. My preference is to remove one tube from the fork brace, disassemble, clean and/or replace parts, reassemble it using a vise with soft jaws, replace it into the braces then work on the other tube. Once the assembly has been restored to good condition, draining and replacing fork fluid at regular intervals should be all that's needed for tens of thousands of miles.

Protecting the fork tube and seal from grit is recommended to preserve the fork seal.  I installed fork gaiters on the tubes when I replaced leaking seals. There are several other effective devices and techniques for protecting the seal.

New procedures are often difficult until understanding of operation is present. Most of us pass through this stage as we learn. We just follow instructions to the extent we can and move forward. Introduction of new problems can be avoided by not doing anything. That lets the old problems take you down eventually.
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Offline Eville Rich

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Re: installing progressive springs
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2019, 12:23:10 PM »

Thanks for the input everyone.  Taking the tubes off the bike seems like a good way to go. I have a set of gaiters to install, so may as well do that.  I use an old bicycle inner tube to act as a cushion in my vice.  Wrapping the fork tubes prevents scratching and lets me use a fairly light squeeze with the vice.

As far as whether or not I have an "S" suspension from either set of forks - there is no "S" stamped on the top cover of the forks.  All I know is that both bikes are/were 1987 K75S's.  Based on comparing the Clymer diagram and description of parts and spring counts, the donor forks may be the "S" version as Clymer shows two distance tubes and two springs.  I'll disassemble and get it sorted.  Pics will be taken.

Eville Rich



  • WI, USA
  • 1987 K75S

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