This Is The EPIC Soggs 92K75 MAGA Thread

[Soggz]

Hmmm. Worth a thought, thanks.

[Soggz]

no, sorry.

This is a picture of GD-525 , 30% moly, an aftermarket moly lube that's out of production. Whichever moly grease you use should look substantially like this.


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well, that’s what I thought. Perhaps the bmw place got it wrong ,but it’s what they send me.

[DavidATL]

What they sent looks to be for assembly only and not continuous use. The moly grease for the splines needs to be extremely thick and remain so at higher temps (200F?) so that it won't sling off when spinning around. The thick grease base is a carrier for the molybdenum disulfide material.

[Soggz]

What they sent looks to be for assembly only and not continuous use. The moly grease for the splines needs to be extremely thick and remain so at higher temps (200F?) so that it won't sling off when spinning around. The thick grease base is a carrier for the molybdenum disulfide material.

I ordered some moly powder. Is it possible to mix my own recipe, so to speak?

[DavidATL]

I ordered some moly powder. Is it possible to mix my own recipe, so to speak?

sure but it will probably be easier to just buy Honda moly or STABURAGS NBU 30.

data sheet for GD-525 is attached. Note the drop points and temperature characteristics.

[Soggz]

Be cheaper to use what I got. Plus, I can add extra diasulphate to it. In theory, should be better.

[DavidATL]

Be cheaper to use what I got. Plus, I can add extra diasulphate to it. In theory, should be better.

I can't express enough how THICK the GD is at least at room temperature. That's what holds the MDS in place. GD is stiff like hard butter. It's like tar and sticks to everything it comes in contact with.

Given that what they sent you is in a squeeze tube, I can't believe it would be a proper base for this application, IMO. Sorry.

[Soggz]

Fair enough. Just a thought really.

[szabgab]

sure but it will probably be easier to just buy Honda moly or STABURAGS NBU 30.

data sheet for GD-525 is attached. Note the drop points and temperature characteristics.

David, the stuff he has bought is most likely Castrol Optimol, which is highly recommended for spline lube jobs. The Staburags NBU30 is actually a grey paste, and if I am not mistaken Chris Harris uses ONLY that for the clutch splines as he is somehow skeptical about Honda Moly 60, or whatever it is called nowadays. I could not get Optimol, Honda Moly 60 or the Staburags, so I have sourced a large cartridge of Liqui Moly LM47 as that was the stuff recommended by Haynes, but certainly Soggz has bought the right stuff, at least according to BMW...

[Laitch]

Also, when I ordered it, I asked for the moly spine line. Is this the right stuff they sent me?

That lube should work for all splined shafts. Some experienced and credible classic K riders use it straight from the tube; others combine it 50/50 with the currently available Honda Moly. For more confidence you could combine it. I would not hesitate to use it alone but the 60 grams of Staburags NBU60 PTM I purchased years ago will outlive my use of it.

An amount that fits comfortably on a toothbrush is all that is needed for each shaft. Molybdenum bonds to metal. The shaft must be clean when this stuff is applied; otherwise, this moly—or any other choice of lube—won't be bonding effectively during use. Excess lube applied will be spun off and wasted.

The drawback of BMW's monolever drive system is the lube on the final drive input shaft should be applied every 6000 miles or so because it eventually is scrubbed off by the continual forward/aft action the suspension transmits to the input shaft and driveshaft union. Lube on the transmission input spline ls more durable.

[Soggz]

Yes, that’s what I thought. The in and out motion of the shaft tends to make it shift upwards and out of the splines.
I will cross that bridge when I come to it though, as I don’t think the shaft will get done for a while, as my mate who’s gonna do it, informs me that he a bit busy. Hopefully, I may have the bike running properly by then.

[szabgab]

Hi. What would I measure it with? And how?

Read this / http://www.bmw-k100rt-page.eu/manual/FuelOil/11_FuelLub.htm

And don't worry about the Castrol stuff, apparently it is just as good and it will do just fine, in fact, the official BMW paste for the splines is a white or light gray paste. If in doubt, mix in some MOS2, you have bought from ebay...

Also I did not try this, but apparently you can plug the hollow shaft of the driveshaft with good quality silicone, as that would stop the grease to wonder up the hole

[Soggz]

Read this / http://www.bmw-k100rt-page.eu/manual/FuelOil/11_FuelLub.htm

And don't worry about the Castrol stuff, apparently it is just as good and it will do just fine, in fact, the official BMW paste for the splines is a white or light gray paste. If in doubt, mix in some MOS2, you have bought from ebay...

Also I did not try this, but apparently you can plug the hollow shaft of the driveshaft with good quality silicone, as that would stop the grease to wonder up the hole

Hmmmm... this is getting technical, however, I am willing to learn! What sort of gauge and where would I get that from?
I have seen the silicone plug done on youtube, inner shaft had to be dead clean. I may try this in a few weeks when I may get it back.
Thank you.

[DavidATL]

Also I did not try this, but apparently you can plug the hollow shaft of the driveshaft with good quality silicone, as that would stop the grease to wonder up the hole

Maybe with this?  Joke ... wait... serious.



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[Soggz]

I did consider that foam, tbh, after I saw the silicone plug...

[szabgab]

Maybe with this?  Joke ... wait... serious.



900E0A6E-CF5C-4B83-BB4D-2C1DFCC2963C.jpeg (23.33 kB . 484x576 - viewed 334 times)

:D David, could you expand on that idea? :)

[Soggz]

:D David, could you expand on that idea? :)

ET...Foam Home......

[DavidATL]

I swear I thought the foam idea was an original one. But I am not the only one to think about it apparently:

from 2012: "Is this a dumb idea? I am thinking about filling the DS with nonexpanding foam insulation. Then stuffing something like WalMart sacks into the space at the inside (forward ,beyond the splines) of the splines. fill the forward space that is left with grease and assemble. Now the only way that grease can get out is to work it's way rearward."

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?58425-1985-K100-Drive-shaft-splines

Maybe I read this years ago... No intent to plagiarize!

[szabgab]

I swear I thought the foam idea was an original one. But I am not the only one to think about it apparently:

from 2012: "Is this a dumb idea? I am thinking about filling the DS with nonexpanding foam insulation. Then stuffing something like WalMart sacks into the space at the inside (forward ,beyond the splines) of the splines. fill the forward space that is left with grease and assemble. Now the only way that grease can get out is to work it's way rearward."

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?58425-1985-K100-Drive-shaft-splines

Maybe I read this years ago... No intent to plagiarize!

:)

Well, I did not even know, there is non expanding foam in existence... However I am not sure, how much the foam would tolerate heat and chemicals, probably silicone is a better idea, you do not need much either, just a plug....

[Martin]

I've used the white Optimol for twenty years tried the Honda stuff once.  I'm now using the Optimol silver (grey) at 160,000 K's. The shaft is showing wear but still has plenty of life left. It is more important to clean and change it  often. I used to do it every 20,000 K's now I'm going to do it every 15,000 K's.
Regards Martin.

[DavidATL]

:)

Well, I did not even know, there is non expanding foam in existence... However I am not sure, how much the foam would tolerate heat and chemicals, probably silicone is a better idea, you do not need much either, just a plug....

from the internet:
"Cured One-Component foam typically withstands temperatures from -200 degrees F (-129 degrees C) to +200 degrees F (93 degrees C)."

Though this is a crazy idea, I think foam has merit. In its favor, it's light and shouldn't cause an imbalance.

[DavidATL]

.. It is more important to clean and change it  often...

amen brother Martin. In various car/ bike sites I've read argument after argument about oil brand and viscosity. By far, the most important thing is change interval. Same applies to the splines on our bikes.

[Martin]

Three things that will give your Brick long life. Correct maintenance, correct maintenance and correct maintenance. After 165,000 K's and 26 years I've used one set of fork seals about 19 years ago, since then I have packed under the dust caps with heavy silicone grease. I also pack the brake master cylinder dust boots with silicone grease and regularly change the fluid. I am currently running a Chinese master cylinder as an experiment but have cleaned and stored my still fine OEM one. Same with the fuel pump. I'm on my second fuel pump damper but still have my good OEM one my brick runs all year round regularly and has never run E10 fuel. Still on all OEM cables lubed regularly with PTFE lubricant never WD40  also grease pivots. Still running all OEM cooling system parts except the fan, I change the coolant at recommended intervals with the OEM coolant. I and on my second breather  but I still have my perfectly fine first one that I clean and wipe it with protectant. Correctly maintained Bricks are pretty bullet proof.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

How about you concentrate on getting it running right...

[Soggz]

Lol. I am. I’ve just cleared out a space in my garage and put another bench up to put all the bits of the bike on, as it’s starting to take up more room in pieces, rather than a whole bike!
I think I will be starting with the air and fuel system coming off to check out all the rubber boots and things. Can afford the cost to replace them yet, however, I may be able to fix them using various mastics and 60mm heat shrink and new clips. I’ve calculated all the rubber bits to come out at £250.00, which is too much of an outlay for me for this time of year.(gardener,winter,not much work at the moment).But I shall carry on doing the ‘free’ stuff.