Keep handle bars after lowering bike?

[Arredondo1]

Hey guys I plan on lowering my bike but from the looks of it the handlebars wont clear the front forks. I like my current handlebars setup since it doesnt have me hunched over all the way. What can I do to keep the handlebars? I really dont want to go with clip ons. But I do need to lower it, I can't do this tippy toe thing anymore at stops.

[Laitch]

. . . but from the looks of it the handlebars wont clear the front forks..

Show us some photos, please.

[johnny]

greetings...

you can have a local welder make you some outta chromium tube stock...

j o

[Chaos]

cannot visualize you conundrum.  The bars are more or less solidly fastened to the front forks so they can't really interfere with them, unless you're talking about sliding the fork tubes way up the triple clamps in which case some barbaks would give you clearance.  Mine are dropped about half an inch with no issues.

[Arredondo1]

..., unless you're talking about sliding the fork tubes way up the triple clamps in which case some barbaks would give you clearance. 

Yes thats what i plan to do, im going for 1.5 to 1.75 inches, depending on what feels better.


What is a barbak? Ive never heard of those.

[Martin]

Buy a set of shoe lifts  then buy a pair of motorcycle boots with the thickest soles you can find. Try the lifts in the boots before you buy them, not all boots will accept lifts comfortably. Next drop the forks through the trees you can go about 1/2'' without upsetting the handling. You can get a lower OEM seat or alternatively a good upholsterer that is experienced with motorcycle seats can shave your OEM seat. There is also a shorter rear shock available, but this will impact on corner clearance and make the bike harder to get onto the centre stand without modifications to the stand.
Regards Martin.

[Arredondo1]

Buy a set of shoe lifts  then buy a pair of motorcycle boots with the thickest soles you can find. Try the lifts in the boots before you buy them, not all boots will accept lifts comfortably. Next drop the forks through the trees you can go about 1/2'' without upsetting the handling. You can get a lower OEM seat or alternatively a good upholsterer that is experienced with motorcycle seats can shave your OEM seat. There is also a shorter rear shock available, but this will impact on corner clearance and make the bike harder to get onto the centre stand without modifications to the stand.
Regards Martin.

Nah man im not wearing heels just to ride a bike lol. I know the handling is going to change, im fine with that.

[Laitch]

What is a barbak? Ive never heard of those.

A set of barbacks—also known as risers—will raise and reposition handlebars.
 
The pegs are likely to scrape sooner in turns and the bike might be difficult to raise onto the center stand. The rear shock should be shorter, too but they don't get much shorter than 0.75"—1.00".

Here's a photo of risers from Twisted Throttle.

[Chaos]

you can also see the barbaks in the photo with my other post.  I'd caution against raising the tubes more than 1/2" or so, you're changing the rake and trail and chassis dynamics that German engineers spent hundreds of years perfecting.  Progressive has a 3/4" shorter shock, check Amazon and Ebay sellers, usually about $260.  Also lower profile tires but I've never gone there. 

[Martin]

You can gain a .75" to 1" plus with boots with thicker soles, without going to higher heels. Dropping the forks through the trees by that much will cause problems as stated. What about going the OEM low seat route or a good upholsterer?
Regards Martin.

[Arredondo1]

Ok thanks guys im going to look into the barbacks. That looks to be the best solution.
I'm definitely getting a lower rear shock to go with the lowered front.
And I should have said my ideal drop would be 1.5" to 1.7" but if all it can muster is 1", than that might work. If it feels really bad then I'll just undo the adjustments and try another approach.

Not going to do high heels though Martin :riding:

Also I should add that this is for the k75c, it has a 14" shock and it sits on 18 inch wheels. I sold the k100 in my sig to a close friend which has 13"shock and a rear 17" wheel. Those 2 inches made a big difference. I still drive it every now and then.

[billday]

you can also see the barbaks in the photo with my other post.  I'd caution against raising the tubes more than 1/2" or so, you're changing the rake and trail and chassis dynamics that German engineers spent hundreds of years perfecting.  Progressive has a 3/4" shorter shock, check Amazon and Ebay sellers, usually about $260.  Also lower profile tires but I've never gone there.

Chaos, dude, are you sure about that hundreds of years?

Arredondo, you didn't mention if your bike has the low seat setup. That'd be a good place to start, better than monkeying with the frame and suspension geometry.

[Laitch]

. . . if all it can muster is 1", than that might work.

Arredondo, you didn't mention if your bike has the low seat setup. That's be a good place to start . . .

A low seat assembly will lower your seating position 2". They are occasionally offered for sale on this forum, the K100 Forum, IBMWR's marketplace, and eBay. If you can use one, you must act quickly when you find one.

How about posting photos of your bikes? The only image so far is in a video of a fuel tank with a bike struggling and failing to start beneath it. :giggles

While you're at it, how about closing out this thread you started with the result, even if it's a continuing problem? That's another way you would help contribute to the forum.
 

[Chaos]

Chaos, dude, are you sure about that hundreds of years?

You're right, it could be thousands dating back to Slavics and barbarians on their /2 Dakars hunting dinosaurs and bison.   Also, if you're looking for a low seat offer to trade your regular one,  some people buy the bike not needing a low seat and would be happy to trade even for the seat, hardware and side covers.

[Arredondo1]

Found these risers,
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rox-elite-pivot-risers-for-78-or-1-18-handlebars?kclid=3a66c938-000f-42a4-955a-7ec4ed93d554&gclid=CjwKCAjw3cPYBRB7EiwAsrc-uXXVD3RgPWhorYf3FWmya8gToLPQVhmHNuuKnMXmPyyEosBoCTjIQAvD_BwEyeK63e-

That will give me more than enough space to. Thanks guys.

[Laitch]

Found these risers,

Consider measuring the bike's current cable and brake hose lengths to determine if you will have enough length without installing longer ones after mounting these risers.

[duckhawk]

My bike's bars hurt my wrists really bad. I am developing carpal tunnel syndrome. I cannot ride for more than 2 hours.

My ideal bars would much closer to parallel to my axles.

Can I have my bars bent, or do I have to go to my local, "tube bender." 

* heated grips.

[johnny]

greetings...

i know of folks taking everything off the bars leaving them attached the the moto... flamed the spot where they wanted to coax a different angle and gotts yeeehaaa..

if i was gonna do it... first thing id do is agressively seek helibars... after exhausting that route i would look for a welder who can tack it up with you on the moto... then do the final weld off the moto...

dude has to be good cause your health depends on it...

know of nobody who had a bender getts it 100%...

rider dangerously...

j o

[bizzaro]

GoGo boots is what I did. Just don't try n walk in um! :hehehe

[rbm]

If your bike is what is pictured in your avatar Duckhawk, then it looks like you have RT bars fitted.  That puts your body in an almost upright position on the seat.  Carpal Tunnel Syndrome would come about if you restrict the blood flow to the fingers by bending your wrists, as with using a computer mouse and keyboard for long periods.  You might be wanting to be leaned over a tiny bit more to get your arms in line with the controls.   You might want to investigate handlebars from Flanders. They sell a large variety in 22mm diameter and it might work out better than trying to modify the stock BMW bars.

[duckhawk]

Robert, you know your stuff. 20 months I took a desk job managing 208 employees, HR, etc. 8 /12 to 10 hour days at a computer. The ergonomics are not ideal and I am modifying that. I very actively use the mouse, and should also work on that too.

In regards to the bars, you have given good info, and I will check that out. I am also looking at S bars. Has anyone done that with a bile like this?

This bike is my short ride bike, but as I get older, I'd like to ride it more...

 

   


95 k75 bars iii.png (262.27 kB . 271x492 - viewed 423 times)

[duckhawk]

I do have access to a master welder that rides Harleys. That could be my easiest, cheapest option.
If anything, If I didn't get it right the first time, I could do it again....

until the bars were 13" across!! :riding: