Rear lights won’t go out!!

[rodsurbina]

Hey everyone. Working on some lite wiring and I think I messed up...


The goal, initially, was to replace the hazard and ABS switches with rocker switches and mount them on the left side fairing/battery cover. After I moved them and tested successfully, I took a ride and everything was good.
Replaced all the fuses the next day (because they all looked ancient and one or two had blown)


Now the issues:
- As soon as I put all the new fuses in the tail light and rear blinkers stay on, even without the key in the ignition. They will not turn off so I just took the fuse out. Brake light still works like normal.
- When I use a turn signal, or even the signal cancel button, all the blinkers stay illuminated until I let the button go. Essentially they’re momentary switches. The new rock switch still works normally. The fuse keeps blowing.


Questions:
- Any thoughts on why these lights won’t turn off?
- Would this rocker switch be cause the fuse to blow?
- Anyone tried replacing and relocating the dash buttons before?


The ABS has not given me any issues with the new switch




Thanks!

[Skunky]

It Sounds to me like you have a short circuit between the switches. My Suggestion would be to find the Wiring Diagram and then make sure everything is wired as it should be. There's a reason that 1 or 2 fuses were blown!.
Disconnect the switches one at a time and then put the fuses back in to eliminate each switch.

[Skunky]

You will find the diagrams here

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11026.0.html

[Laitch]

It Sounds to me like you have a short circuit between the switches. My Suggestion would be to find the Wiring Diagram and then make sure everything is wired as it should be. There's a reason that 1 or 2 fuses were blown!.
Disconnect the switches one at a time and then put the fuses back in to eliminate each switch.

+1

A photo of your wiring to your switches, and their new location would be helpful.

[Inge K.]

Are you shure you haven't pulled the key when the ignition is in the park position?
...that would leave the tail lamp on (and the front park lamp).
Pull the flasher relay and see if the fuses still blow.
Which of fuses blow?

[rodsurbina]

Thanks for all the responses.


I've been poking around and it looks like, yes, the switch I installed is what is causing the short. The turn signals seem to work fine until I turn on the hazard switch. Then they all crap out. I guess theSwitch I purchased is the wrong...amperage(??). Anyone know what amperage the stock ABS and hazard switches are?

It Sounds to me like you have a short circuit between the switches. My Suggestion would be to find the Wiring Diagram and then make sure everything is wired as it should be. There's a reason that 1 or 2 fuses were blown!.
Disconnect the switches one at a time and then put the fuses back in to eliminate each switch.

As for the switch wiring, I just cut the OEM switches off while keeping the stock wiring harness, so there shouldn't be a wiring issue.

Are you shure you haven't pulled the key when the ignition is in the park position?
...that would leave the tail lamp on (and the front park lamp).
Pull the flasher relay and see if the fuses still blow.
Which of fuses blow?

I have made sure I've removed the key completely but, after thinking about it, I think that fuse was blown since I've had the bike and maybe never noticed.


Fuse 7 is the one that always blows when I use the hazards, and as soon as I install fuse 2 the tail light and rear blinkers stay on.




Thanks again.

[Inge K.]

How have you wired the hazard switch?
Have you done any mods on the ignition switch connections+

[rodsurbina]

How have you wired the hazard switch?
Have you done any mods on the ignition switch connections+

Yes, the switches have been wired up. They are two pole on/off rockers, 20A 125V 15A 250V SPST 2 Terminal Pin ON/OFF.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Ignition has not been modified, only moved to the right side of the bike. [/color]

[Inge K.]

How have you wired the new hazard switch?
To activate the hazard function the contact "W" (yellow/violet wire) should be connected to ground.

I still put a coin on the ignition switch, try to disconnect it and the insert the fuse.
That tail and rear flashlight lights up at the same time could be a bad ground in the tail
(or some mod a PO have done).

[rodsurbina]

How have you wired the new hazard switch?
To activate the hazard function the contact "W" (yellow/violet wire) should be connected to ground.

I still put a coin on the ignition switch, try to disconnect it and the insert the fuse.
That tail and rear flashlight lights up at the same time could be a bad ground in the tail
(or some mod a PO have done).

I cut the wires from behind the stock switch which were a yellow/violet wire and a brown wire. I connected the yellow/violet wire to "on" and the brown wire to "off."
Sorry for my ignorance but I don't know if that was correct.


Yea, the lights will come on as soon as the fuse is installed. I'll have to take a look at it all once I completely remove the tank and seat.

[rbm]

Can't help with the problem.  Have to say, though, that it is imperative to have a good understanding of how the electronics function on the K-bike before starting to clip wires and replace OEM parts with aftermarket ones. The electrics work as a "system", all contributing to total functionality and seldom in isolation from one another.  There are some parts on the K-bike that are specially-built for BMW and for which you will never find an aftermarket equivalent.

It's really hard to debug a mistake on electrical mods unless you are able to draw an accurate schematic diagram showing the final configuration of switches, wires, fuses and components.  Are you able to produce this for your project and post it here please?  If not, it's hit-and-miss if you get sound advice on how to eliminate the problem.

[rodsurbina]

Can't help with the problem.  Have to say, though, that it is imperative to have a good understanding of how the electronics function on the K-bike before starting to clip wires and replace OEM parts with aftermarket ones. The electrics work as a "system", all contributing to total functionality and seldom in isolation from one another.  There are some parts on the K-bike that are specially-built for BMW and for which you will never find an aftermarket equivalent.

It's really hard to debug a mistake on electrical mods unless you are able to draw an accurate schematic diagram showing the final configuration of switches, wires, fuses and components.  Are you able to produce this for your project and post it here please?  If not, it's hit-and-miss if you get sound advice on how to eliminate the problem.

Totally true. Once I get the tank off I'll have a better idea of whats going on and what the PO did. There are random wires hanging out all over the place so I think I'll have my work cut out for me....