Is this water/oil pump salvageable?

[lilau3]

I have seals and the new style impeller and spacer on order but it looks like there is some significant pitting in the face the water impeller runs on.

Question is does this pitting matter on the water side?

Also does the oil pump shaft look usable?

Thanks


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[caveman]

The pitting on the shaft would concern me.

[lilau3]

The pitting on the shaft would concern me.

yes, it's all looking pretty sad, even the cover was very badly corroded.


Just bit the bullet and ordered a new one from Motobins ($$$ :( ), ordered a new cover too, ah well, at least I will not have to go through rebuilding the whole thing.


Given the bad corrosion are there any other parts I should be checking or looking out for?

[Martin]

To save further grief use only a good quality compatible coolant with distilled water. Never use tap water.
Regards Martin.

[lilau3]

To save further grief use only a good quality compatible coolant with distilled water. Never use tap water.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin, will do. I've dropped a few liters of water through it to and it seems to be fairly clear now.


I was thinking once it's all back together again I'd fill it up with normal water, run it until the thermostat opens then drain it again, then I'll fill it up with proper coolant.


I use Motul Motocool Factory Line in my Vespa GTS, not sure if that would be suitable for the K100?
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/motocool-factory-line

[Martin]

For some weird reason I can get OEM coolant at a reasonable price. If you have sign of scale or gunk in your radiator it might be worthwhile using a flushing agent. Gryph had a really badly scaled up radiator and I believe he remove the radiator and filled it with white vinegar to clean it out.
He'll probably enlighten you on this. A clean functioning cooling system is critical to the well being of your Brick. The cooling fins should also be cleaned out and carefully straightened where needed. Do not use compressed air or high pressure water as this could cause further damage. A fin straightening tool can be had on Ebay a strip or piece of plastic can also be used. Take care not to damage the fins and just use low pressure water to flush out the fins.
Regards Martin.

[lilau3]

For some weird reason I can get OEM coolant at a reasonable price. If you have sign of scale or gunk in your radiator it might be worthwhile using a flushing agent. Gryph had a really badly scaled up radiator and I believe he remove the radiator and filled it with white vinegar to clean it out.
He'll probably enlighten you on this. A clean functioning cooling system is critical to the well being of your Brick. The cooling fins should also be cleaned out and carefully straightened where needed. Do not use compressed air or high pressure water as this could cause further damage. A fin straightening tool can be had on Ebay a strip or piece of plastic can also be used. Take care not to damage the fins and just use low pressure water to flush out the fins.
Regards Martin.

OK I’ll try the flushing agent first up.

Fins all seem to be A OK thankfully. I’ll give them a degrease though.





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[Martin]

The only problem with flushing agents is that they can sometimes make things worse if there is a lot of scale present. The scale that the agent loosens up can sometimes cause more blockages. These can sometimes be removed by reverse flushing. To stop pushing and compacting any scale you should only reverse flush.
Regards Martin.

[lilau3]

The only problem with flushing agents is that they can sometimes make things worse if there is a lot of scale present. The scale that the agent loosens up can sometimes cause more blockages. These can sometimes be removed by reverse flushing. To stop pushing and compacting any scale you should only reverse flush.
Regards Martin.

I’m not familiar with that process @Martin. I assume it means pumping water from the bottom of the hose that connects to the water pump (and out through the filler)?


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[gazman]

Mate  I'm pretty sure he's talking about the fins that make up the radiator, not the ones on your engine  :yes

[bizzaro]

Mate  I'm pretty sure he's talking about the fins that make up the radiator, not the ones on your engine  :yes

Ditto on that. And if the fins are not really damaged much, my vote would be leave them alone as you could potentially cause a leak trying to manipulate them.


Also, yes, back flushing is simply reversing the flow the water normally takes. So Really you want to flush both ways till it appears clear.  And as stated, if you loosen junk up in there, flush both ways multiple times till it comes out clean and runs clear. Then rinse it with distilled water. I would run the bike with just distilled water for a bit, drain and repeat. And by the looks of your pump, a thermosthat may be in order. Definitely have a look at it and check it in a pot of hot water and make sure it is opening smoothly at the proper temperature.  When you are certain it is clean, and have rinsed it with distilled water, mix you desired coolant with distilled water and you should be good to go till the next time you refresh your coolant.

[stokester]

To save further grief use only a good quality compatible coolant with distilled water. Never use tap water.
Regards Martin.

Yes, very important and do it regularly.  Although probably more often than necessary, I do mine every two years following Bob Fleischer's procedures and recommendations. -> [size=78%]http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/k-coolant.htm[/size]

[Martin]

Flush from the filler neck back out of the top hose. The top hose is the one that connects to the coolant pipe stub that also has the coolant sensor on the left hand side of the engine.  If you have the radiator out you can connect from the thermostat housing  and exit at the top hose and leave the filler cap and hose connected. So as not to damage the core do not allow the pressure to go over 10-12 Psi if pressure flushing as you can damage the core. It can often take a quite a few flushes to clear it if the scale is bad. You might even have to resort to white vinegar. I'll see if I can get you a diagram tomorrow.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

NEVER put tap water in your cooling system for any reason.  Distilled only.

Flush dirt from the radiator fins from tha back side it means you have to remove the radiator, but that will let you do a good clean and flush of all the hoses and other stuff in the laundry sinks.  A gallon of white vinegar for a couple bucks will do the job.  These bikes are old enough that a good cooling system cleaning is probably overdue.

To clean the fins just put the radidiator in a pan of dish detergent and water overnight.  Next day put it face down and pour water from a bucket through it from a height of about two feet.  Do that until the fins look nice and clean.  To clean the innards, tape up all but one hose connection and fill the radiator with the white vinegar and let it sit for a half hour and dump it out.  Then run distilled water through it until it comes out clean.  That should only take about gallon.  Same vinegar soak for the hoses.

Distilled water doesn't have to cost a lot.  If you have a dehumidifier you have an unlimited supply of distilled water for free.

You've been into the pump, that's the hard part, might as well do a good job and pull the radiator too.

[Martin]

Either flush in from filler neck or  thermostat housing and water out at hose No 1.
Regards Martin.

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[lilau3]

You've been into the pump, that's the hard part, might as well do a good job and pull the radiator too.

Yeah might as well take the radiator off and give it a good flush. Fins look in good condition (at least from the outside).

[Martin]

Make sure any flushing agent is aluminium compatible. I've had my Brick 21 of it's 26 years. It's always been run while I have owned it on OEM coolant with distilled water changed every two years. Two years ago I decided to flush the whole cooling system to see if any nasties had been accumulating. The whole system was scale free. I also think that as an added benefit running OEM and distilled has lengthened the life of my water pump. Maybe I have just been lucky but now have 160,000 K's.
Regards Martin.

[lilau3]

Make sure any flushing agent is aluminium compatible. I've had my Brick 21 of it's 26 years. It's always been run while I have owned it on OEM coolant with distilled water changed every two years. Two years ago I decided to flush the whole cooling system to see if any nasties had been accumulating. The whole system was scale free. I also think that as an added benefit running OEM and distilled has lengthened the life of my water pump. Maybe I have just been lucky but now have 160,000 K's.
Regards Martin.

Hi Martin, so I assume I can get this coolant from any BMW Motorrad outlet (e.g. Southbank in Melbourne)? Do they only carry one type or is there a spec I need? Thanks

[Martin]

You don't necessarily have to use OEM coolant, it's just easy for me to pick up a couple of litres every couple of years. last time I paid I think $16-$18.00 Au for 1.5 litres of concentrate. Some coolants come premixed and you are paying for the convenience of not having to mix it. As long as the coolant conforms and is free from certain additives. For a better understanding read the link Stokester posted.
Regards Martin.

[lilau3]

I have removed the radiator and all hoses in preparation for cleaning with vinegar and distilled water.

Strangely the seal on the thermostat seems too large!




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[The Mighty Gryphon]

The good news here is that your thermostat looks pretty clean.  How do the hoses look inside?  You might just need to pour the vinegar through the radiator to give it a quick clean. 

Concentrate on the fins.  Dawn dish detergent is the best stuff for cleaning them.

[lilau3]

The good news here is that your thermostat looks pretty clean.  How do the hoses look inside?  You might just need to pour the vinegar through the radiator to give it a quick clean. 

Concentrate on the fins.  Dawn dish detergent is the best stuff for cleaning them.

Turns out it’s hard to take photos of the inside of hoses..... here’s the main three.





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[Martin]

One of my mates bikes radiator seals had the same thing happen. Both seals go onto the actual cap the one shown should fit up into the cap.The two new seals were still available for under $10.00.
Regards Martin.
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[The Mighty Gryphon]

Did you happen to get any oil in the coolant when the pump failed?  A lot of the seals in cooling systems are made of a plastic called EPDM.  Good stuff, it's soft and sturdy over a wide temperature range, trouble is, it is destroyed by oil. 

[lilau3]

Did you happen to get any oil in the coolant when the pump failed?  A lot of the seals in cooling systems are made of a plastic called EPDM.  Good stuff, it's soft and sturdy over a wide temperature range, trouble is, it is destroyed by oil.

The pump didn’t fail as such, it just had the usual oil leak from the front so I knew it would need at least a rebuild. Turns out it was too far gone.

When I drained the coolant I don’t think there was any oil in it, but it was the green coolant which I believe shouldn’t be used on alloy blocks.


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