Author Topic: Temperature Light  (Read 5747 times)

Offline alabrew

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Temperature Light
« on: October 24, 2017, 01:48:51 PM »
Turning my attention to the '85 K100 Standard


Since coming into my garage, it has been rather hard to start when cold. Even at 80 degrees F I have to use the choke and the idle is VERY low ~300 rpm until it produces some heat. When in the 70's F, I have to hold it on the second position. Once warmed up, runs great. When I got it, I replaced the pump, filter and injectors to get it running as it had sat outside with fuel in the tank for a few years. Has a new battery.


This weekend, while fooling around with getting all the bulbs to light in the cluster, I noticed that the temp. light does not come on with key on. I traded out a known good bulb but it still did not light at key on.


Should it light with key on like the '91?
Could this be an indicator (sorry for the pun) of the cold start issues?
  • Birmingham, Alabama
  • 1985 K100, 1991 K100RS
Also:
2005 K1200LT
1979 R65
200,000 miles on BMW motorcycles

Offline Laitch

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Re: Temperature Light
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2017, 03:21:17 PM »
Should it light with key on like the '91?
Could this be an indicator (sorry for the pun) of the cold start issues?
No. The bulb can be tested for proper function though. Explanations abound on this site.
No.

What color are the spark plug tips after it has been run, or when it balks at starting? Are they wet or dry? Have you ever cleaned and tested the coolant temperature sensor or tested the injectors? How many miles on the bike when you bought it and how many have you ridden it?

At least it runs well when it gets going. It seems like many newly-initiated '85 K100 owners struggle to achieve that plateau. Ride it a couple of hundred miles tomorrow and see how it starts on Thursday.  :yes There's no time like the future. :giggles
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline K1300S

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Re: Temperature Light
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2017, 07:32:03 PM »
It is not a choke.  It is just a fast idle.

Unless the bike is fully warm,  gotta use it every time.   Cold start,  no matter what outside temp, needs position two for me.
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Offline alabrew

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Re: Temperature Light
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2017, 05:34:02 PM »
It runs fine once I get it moving, just a low (cold) idle.


Yes, I'm aware it isn't a true "choke" but that is what the switch has written it  :dunno2:


New (refurbished, Mr Injector) injectors


20k on it when I got it, about 2k ridden since.


I'll look at the coolant sensor...Fan does run, no light, especially when stopping after a ride at 95+ degrees. '91 RS does the same, K12 must have a larger cooling system as the fan rarely comes on.


Never had much of any problems (water pump seal, gauge cluster) with my first '85, but it never sat. IIRC, it only needed "enrichment" when colder than about 60.
  • Birmingham, Alabama
  • 1985 K100, 1991 K100RS
Also:
2005 K1200LT
1979 R65
200,000 miles on BMW motorcycles

Offline Laitch

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Re: Temperature Light
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2017, 07:51:38 PM »
I'll look at the coolant sensor...Fan does run, no light, especially when stopping after a ride at 95+ degrees. '91 RS does the same, K12 must have a larger cooling system as the fan rarely comes on.
This is an old bike. The mileage tells us that it has probably been neglected. You're already aware these bikes should be ridden plenty to work well.

The overheat warning light won't come on while the fan is working unless the coolant level is critically low, the thermostat is seized closed or the whole cooling system compromised by corrosion and degraded coolant. The bulb isn't lighting probably because the fan is working as designed. It's cooling. You've got to do more than "look at that coolant temperature sensor" though. You've got to test how well it works in gradually heated water by using a multimeter. The instructions are in the K100 troubleshooting manual. You can always check the bulb to see it it lights.

This neglected machine has maintenance needs that should be rendered asap. The crankcase Z-hose should be checked. The intake manifold rubber couplings should be checked for leaks using methods available on the site. The valve clearances should be checked and adjusted if necessary. After that, if the air filter is clean, the throttle bodies should be balanced, the correct idle should be set. The coolant system should be flushed then new long-life coolant without nitrites should be mixed with the correct proportion of distilled water for your climate and added to it.

The bike sounds as though it's usable as is but taking care of these task eventually and in their proper order should make it run optimally. Like your first '85, my bike only needs the choke in first position below 60ºF and then only for as long as it take me to get into second or third gear. Then, it gets shut off and the bike is ready to shift up shortly thereafter. The choke's second position gets used at 40ºF or below. It's not a "choke" but like you pointed out, that's what BMW calls it except in one workshop manual it might have been called a starting speed adjuster. That is just too much effort for a lot of people to remember and update their Facebook pages at the same time. "SSA"? That's a possibility. :giggles

The coldest temp I've ridden this fall so far was 28ºF.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline beemrdon

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Re: Temperature Light
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2017, 01:09:14 AM »
Fuel, air, spark.
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  • 1996 K1100 LT SE, Aspen Silver - Now with 159,xxx miles.

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