K75S Pissing tranny oil

[Ocelot]

My good buddy asked me to take a look at his 93 K75S, which would not shift freely. Clutch cable is adjusted all the way in, but still no free play at all. Tranny dry as a bone. Soon as you start up, that 75/90 w pisses out the bottom & onto the exhaust, making a billowing smoke when the pipes heat up. This is not your ordinary weeping gasket deal. This is a catastrophic everything pours out in a few minutes deal.

Q1: What could suddenly gape open & let all your gear lube pour out? These cases ever crack open? Warp? Blow out their gasket?

Q2: What kind of time do I have to invest to replace that gasket?

TIA

Go Eagles

[Laitch]

Q1: What could suddenly gape open & let all your gear lube pour out? These cases ever crack open? Warp? Blow out their gasket?
Q2: What kind of time do I have to invest to replace that gasket?

Your Aware doesn't seem Dull at all.

Q1: An input shaft seal. A drain hole missing its plug. A cracked transmission case is possible—depends on where you ride or who doesn't like you. Is this fluid coming from the weep hole beneath the bike? That's kind of an awkward reach to get to the exhaust.
Q2: Multiple, thankless hours, except it hasn't yet been determined what's leaking and where.

First you need to find exactly where it's leaking. Head to Walmart and pick up some 80w90. Clean up the mess, refill, run and observe.  Clutch cable adjusted all the way in evades my understanding. Adjuster wound all the way in at the lever, clutch release arm bolt wound down to its lock nut, both, or something else?

[Ocelot]

Your Aware doesn't seem Dull at all.

Q1: An input shaft seal. A drain hole missing its plug. A cracked transmission case is possible—depends on where you ride or who doesn't like you. Is this fluid coming from the weep hole beneath the bike? That's kind of an awkward reach to get to the exhaust.
Q2: Multiple, thankless hours, except it hasn't yet been determined what's leaking and where.

First you need to find exactly where it's leaking. Head to Walmart and pick up some 80w90. Clean up the mess, refill, run and observe.  Clutch cable adjusted all the way in evades my understanding. Adjuster wound all the way in at the lever, clutch release arm bolt wound down to its lock nut, both, or something else?

Yeah, both. Isn't that weird?

[Laitch]

Yeah, both. Isn't that weird?

It won't shift if something is seized in the gearbox guts from lack of lube, no matter what you do with those adjustments so it isn't too weird.

You'll need to find the leak. You'll probably need to remove the gearbox for one reason or another unless somebody forgot to screw in the transmission drain plug, screws it in and that solves the problem. I suggest getting your cable and clutch adjustments relatively back to spec before you proceed—even if you can't shift it.

If your good buddy is lucky and nothing has been deformed within the case, you'll all be laughing about this in a few years.  :yes

[kioolt]

That year bike has a side stand mechanical interlock that will make the clutch lever very hard to pull if the side stand is down.  Is the side stand up?  Also, when you say that the transmission is dry, how did you check it?  Do you use the BMW dip stick tool?  If you did, did you stick it all the way down until the bend in the tool is touching the transmission filler hole?  Other people have not used the tool correctly and overfilled the transmission which caused it to leak fluid when started.

[Ocelot]

That there is a genius tip. I forgot all about that idiot "feature". Years ago, when I scored my K75, first thing I did was yank the side stand cable, cause that feature sucks. I bet his is stuck. His side stand sure doesn't snap up when you pull the clutch.

As for tranny oil, I do not have a dip stick. So I prolly over filled it. How much is it sposed to hold? If I kludge up a home made dip stick outta the shock wrench from my Indian Scout, how far should it stick down? I could prolly use the shock wrench from my KLR too. Just need to know where to put the mark. If you over fill, where would it piss out?

TIA

[kioolt]

I don't know how long the dip stick should be.  I have seen drawings of it somewhere but I don't remember where.  If you have the original tool kit you should have it.  It is actually just the handle of the shock adjusting tool.  Remember the handle should be inserted all the way into the filler hole. 

[Ocelot]

I'll get him to hunt round his shed. I don't know anyone else nearby who owns a K75 and I sold mine years ago.

Thanks a mil for your help. Especially the reminder about that pull the clutch and snap your sidestand up and drop the bike cable.

[kioolt]

I found this on another site.


116 mm measured from the filler plug gasket surface.[/size][/color]

[Laitch]

I found this on another site.
116 mm measured from the filler plug gasket surface.

Couple of photos of measuring devices with measurements start at this post, Ocelot.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8019.msg59108.html#msg59108

By no free play you meant that the lever couldn't be moved at all? Intense! If that was the case, kicking up the stand must have brought excitement to old Dullaware.. :giggles

[Motorhobo]

I'll get him to hunt round his shed. I don't know anyone else nearby who owns a K75 and I sold mine years ago.

Thanks a mil for your help. Especially the reminder about that pull the clutch and snap your sidestand up and drop the bike cable.

I live not far from there an can drop by with the measuring tool. PM me if interested.

[kioolt]

Did you ever find out if it was overfilled and if the side stand being down was the other problem?

[Ocelot]

Not yet. Going there tomorrow morning. Hectic week.

[johnny]

greetings ocelot...

four years removed... good to see you back... even if its not for your brick...

id spray it down with greaser they use on concrete floors... spray it off at the quarter carwash... dont hit important stuff with high pressure... that can cause whack...

warm it up and drain that trans oil... fill it up with new trans oil... commence motobricking...

if it still leaks and leak aints be found... id getts some phosphorescence and put in there and put it under a black light...

ride dangerously...

j o

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Gotta be careful with the black light. 

+1 on the good washdown, then when everything is good and dry give the transmission a good coat of spray on powder and take it for a ride.  Any leaks will be immediately apparent.

[Ocelot]

You guys are funny, with your good washdowns and baby power! It was no mere seepage. It wasn't any slight sniffy sometimes dampage. It was a fire hose. It was a cow pissing on a flat rock.

So I went there this morning and dug that dipstick outta the boot and wound up draining a quart out. Did the trick.

There was a helluva lotta metal bits standing on their heads on the plug magnet. That can's be right. Loads of shavings.

And the clutch cable still has no free play whatever, adjusted all the way up. Real question is, why's the clutch cable so short. Clutch doesn't slip. But something ain't right.

[Laitch]

There was a helluva lotta metal bits standing on their heads on the plug magnet. That can's be right. Loads of shavings.

You want them grinding on the works? I don't think so. That's the magnet fulfilling its purpose. The shifting has probably been treated as negligently as the rest of the bike. It'll still be ok if attention is paid to it, probably.

And the clutch cable still has no free play whatever, adjusted all the way up. Real question is, why's the clutch cable so short. Clutch doesn't slip. But something ain't right.

If I were as baffled as you and this were my bike, I'd remove the cable then measure it. Eventually though, somebody should drop that transmission and inspect the clutch pack, splines and the rest of the linkage.

Cable length? Here's some data from the MAX BMW parts fiche.

[johnny]

greetings...

a strong and powerful stream...

a quart...

i can relate...


006_zps3c027602.jpg (115.33 kB . 768x576 - viewed 442 times)

got it...

j o

[Ocelot]

"If I were as baffled as you and this were my bike, I'd remove the cable then measure it. Eventually though, somebody should drop that transmission and inspect the clutch pack, splines and the rest of the linkage."

If this were your bike, it wouldn't have got this far. Somewheres along the way, when the side stand stopped trippin & the clutch thumbwheel nuts wouldn't cinch up any more & you bnegan to hear the throwout bearing, you would've looked into it. This guy is not the least mechanically inclined. He's more of a farmer and a writer. Detests wrenches.

Now, this is gonna upset you guys, & I understand that, cause you are brick enthusiasts of the highest order. But here's the deal: What are bricks worth? Not talking about their intrinsic worth; talking about what you could buy one for. I see fine looking K75Ses for sale for 1200, 2200, 2400. Sure, there's a handful of delusional beemeristas asking the price of a brand new CTX700. Pay no attention; that's just beemeristas. Truth is, ride this one into the ground & then score another. Never pay more for repairs than the machine is worth. Subtract from your considerations any pleasure you would get hanging in the garage bringing a brick back to life over Winter. That's not him. He's the guy would take it to Bob's BMW.



& Bob's would prolly tell him the same thing. I'd hope.

[Laitch]

Truth is, ride this one into the ground & then score another. Never pay more for repairs than the machine is worth. Subtract from your considerations any pleasure you would get hanging in the garage bringing a brick back to life over Winter.

That's what I call a realistic approach, adding with that good—not obsessive—maintenance the interval between needing to score another gets longer.  :2thumbup: