K100 newbie project

[Fraje]

hi guys!
Been looking for answers online, mailing distributor and producer (nothing). Now I'm putting my faith in you guys!


Bought a k100rt -86 with <60 000 km. A good project to work with. Have lost the "dead weight" such as fairings, side panels etc. replaced the dash with a Koso db-01r. To make it work smoothly I put in a Bep 3.0.


When I had the original dash connected and using led turn signals I got the flash rate under control using resistors. But once the Bep and Koso was connected the hyperflash was back. Bep provides some manual on how to reduce the flash speed. Don't really understand what goes for the 3.0 version, got the perception that it would work as-is. but then my German is poor, so poor...
Any input to share?


Another issue is that the high beam idiot light shines up as rpm goes north of idle. Why??


soon I'll get started slimming down the rear as well. More challenges to come. ;)


Cheers!

[rbm]

To address your signal light problem, have you read and followed Maru's instructions to modify the flasher relay module to make it compatible with the BEP 3.0??


http://maru-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Blinkfrequenz_verlangsamen.pdf


As for the other problem, I can't help you.  Have you tried contacting Maru directly through email for support?

[Martin]

Put a multimeter on it and see what the charging voltage is at idle and when you rev it.
Regards  Martin.

[Fraje]

@rbm yes, i have seen that instruction. Been asking for an English version (if anyone has seen such please let me know). The last sentence in the PDF. What does it mean? Guessing google translate might be skipping a few parts or that I need to read the entire doc to understand.

 
"Durch die BEP3.0 ist Euer Blinklichtrelais sowieso im „zustand 1“ und das Blinklichtrelais kann ganz normal arbeiten."
   

[rbm]

I ran the document through Google Translate and massaged the text to make sense.

[Fraje]

Thanks @rbm!
Beeing no electrician it seems a bit fiddling to solder on the circuit board. And I don't really understand the description. Resistor in parallel by soldering it between 3 and 7. In the pictures there are markings to another part (that small square part). So where should it go?
Perhaps I should go back to bulbs instead.  :falldown:

[Fraje]

Martin how do you mean, charging voltage in general at the battery or do you mean the voltage to the idiot light?

[rbm]

What works for many people is to not use resistors.  Rather, what most people do when adding LED signal lights is to cut the trace to Pin 7 on the U243B IC.  This disables the hyperflash feature and brings the flash rate back to normal.  I would suggest you (1) ditch all the ballast resistors, (2) follow the instructions for stopping the hyperflash, and (3) just let the BEP 3.0 deal with it.  FYI,  This thread has pictures of another type of flasher that is found in K-bikes and how to modify it.

What Martin is hinting at is to measure the terminal voltage at the battery when (1) the bike is off (2) when the bike is idling (3) with the engine at 3000 RPM.  This will tell you if there is charging going on.  We'd expect to see (1) 11.8V - 12.4V (2) 11.9V - 12.5V and (3) 13.5V - 14V.  This is normal.


Another thing to check if you haven't yet done so is to make sure the starter has been serviced.  Weird electrical problems result if the start motor is dirty or if its brushes are too short.  Have you done that service yet?

[Martin]

+1 RBM