Bmw k75 adjusted clutch bolt, no more gears :(

[Arredondo1]

Today my new clutch cable came in for my 88 k75c and I installed it via chris haynes youtube adjustment video. I tested it out afterwards and shifting into 1st does nothing, it feels the same as neutral. I let go of the clutch and it doesnt die. When I was adjusting the clutch bolt near the transmission the clutch arm went down for a bit and then never moved again. I can turn it in all the way in or all the way out and the clutch arm doesnt move at all. The clutch lever still raises the arm though. So what did I mess up this time?

[rbm]

Follow the clutch play adjustment process as outlined on pages 00-34.0 and 00-35.0 in the BMW factory maintenance manual. Make sure to precisely measure the exposed length of cable at the clutch engagement arm end (75mm +/-1mm) and don't forget to set the clutch pushrod adjustment screw on the other end of the clutch engagement arm.


If you can change gears by manually moving the gear shift lever while simultaneously jogging the rear wheel, then nothing is wrong with the transmission and drive train.  Try the above process and report back if you still continue to experience problems.

[Arredondo1]

Thanks rbm, im going to get back to it right now.

[johnny]

greetings...

make sure there is nothing between the lever and the swingarm... i once gotts a rock lodged under there and thought my clutch was gone...

j o

[Arredondo1]

Thanks rbm, followed the guide and I got it, I really thought I had messed something up haha.
Just to clarify, i ended up removing the entire throttle cable and seating it with a 3 inch gap at the end. Then made sure there was enough play on the clutch lever, supposed to be 10-12 mm. I taped it all in place.


Then i took the adjustment bolt on the clutch arm all the way out. And made sure the lock nut was all the way out as well, I believe that was where I messed up last time.


Next i put the bolt back into the clutch arm and bolted it in slowly, once i felt pressure I stopped and put the lock nut in place. I removed my tape and the measured everything again. The gap was a little under 2.9", I turned on the bike and engaged the gears. Then drove it up the block and its good now. [size=78%]actually getting to drive a project for a few minutes is always fun :D.[/size]

[BrickMW]

The 10-12 mm 2mm (+/- 0.5mm) measurement should be the last thing you set... this is the distance required (by the clutch lever) before the adjustable bolt w/ locknut contacts the clutch piston. When you ran the bolt in till you felt pressure, you should then back it off until you achieve the 10-12 mm. 2mm (+/- 0.5mm) By your description, I'm afraid you have it set too tight, and it only gets worse with wear.
TBH.. I was somewhat confused by the shop manual on this procedure, and didn't fully "get" it until I watched ..

[The Mighty Gryphon]

10-12mm?????

75mm cable free length, 2mm free play at lever.

I notice that Chris Harris has different procedure for adjusting free play from the factory manual.  Both methods are okay. 

On my K75's, the 75mm dimension results in the arm just hitting the muffler when the lever is allowed to snap back.  I adjust the free length to just not hit the muffler which is about 73mm on my bikes.  At 75mm the arm rattles on the muffler when the engine is running at idle and it sounds like something is bouncing around inside the muffler. 

[BrickMW]

10-12mm?????
 

IDK.. thought maybe he was measuring the ball end of the clutch lever..?? :dunno :giggles


+1 on 75mm a tad too long for some mufflers. Mine rings the bell if I let it snap back when set to the full 75mm also.