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21
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: New K owner in the Maritimes
« Last post by BikerBayman on September 15, 2026, 02:52:59 PM »
Thanks Laitch - will do.

I like that you can just remove the filler ring and get your hand right inside the tank.
This is my first BMW.  It only has 58,000 KM (36,000 miles) on it so not even broken in by motobrick standards from what I read.

Looking forward to getting it on the road.
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: New K owner in the Maritimes
« Last post by Laitch on September 15, 2026, 02:23:58 PM »
Welcome to the site! Thanks for the photos.

Remove the fuel cap assembly and look for varnish, crud, and a rotted rubber fuel pump damper within the tank. Good luck with your project!

23
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / New K owner in the Maritimes
« Last post by BikerBayman on September 15, 2026, 09:27:48 AM »
Hi All,

I've just picked up a 1987 K75C.  It appears to be in really good shape for it's age.  Hasn't been started or on the road in 8 years but was stored inside.  Of course the battery was dry so have  new one on order.   Have to drain the old fuel, change the oil and install a new battery and see if it will start.  I'm not planning on putting it on the road until next spring, as it's almost the end of riding season here in New Brunswick and I'll be away all of October.  I plan on replacing all the fluids (brake, forks, coolant, final drive....) and greasing the spline before it goes back on the road next spring.  I'm sure I'l have  few questions along the way.






Cheers - BikerBayman
24
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Greetings from Manchester (The original one in England)
« Last post by steel999 on September 14, 2026, 11:56:52 AM »
Hi all

I have a 1992 K1100LT which is about to undergo some major fettling ( a fettler was a person who kept machinery going in the old Cotton Mills round here) after reaching 90,000 miles and getting rather tired and in need of some love.

The plastics became so brittle that me hitting the horn button caused cracks, the lowers split in half and the top box fell off in shock at 30 MPH, coming to rest in the road, the kindly truck driver coming behind sheilding me from oncoming traffic as I ran back to get it to relative safety.

So I've decided to slim the old girl down and remove all superfluous knobs and excressences to make her svelte  ( and a lot lighter).

Anyway, I've owned it for several years and ridden it for many miles in all weathers.  If anyone is familiar with the BBC Comedy "Only Fools And Horses", this is the 2 wheeled equivalent of Trigger's Broom. ( He is a none too bright roadsweeper who praises his sturdy broom having owned it for 10 years and in all that time it's only had 4 staves and 6 heads.....you get the picture)...replacements of just about everything over the yeras from a fan, thermostat, fork springs then forks, rear shock, seat, clocks blah blah blah....

The fairing has now gone to the great dumpster in the sky, the tragkorbs and other parts have been sold, and I'm about to change out the airbox for some K and N type filters. The ABS went South years back, and the calipers were sent off for refurbishment with the addition of braided steel lines on their arrival back here. Several Northern England winters of road salt later and it all needs doing again. Paint on the swing arm is a mess, and the whole wiring loom is in need of thinning out to remove all the excess branches for the ABS, screen motor etc.

I also ride an ex-Police R1200RT-P, and have a 2000 K1200LT SE in the garage, so I'll be good for the winter commute.

Looking forward to learning as much as I can about how to fettle up a very eldelry K-bike.

Best regards

Andy
25
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K1100LT Paralever looking intresting
« Last post by Laitch on September 13, 2026, 12:01:29 PM »
Welcome to the site, Ender!

To help you get acquainted with your Brick, you should have at least two manuals if you don't have them already: The BMW K1100 LT/RT Workshop Manual and the K1100 Rider's Handbook. The Rider's Handbook explains the Brick's controls, features, and basic maintenance procedures. The Workshop Manual explains how to do major repair or replacement like engine disassembly, clutch replacement, drivetrain removal and other essential tasks.

Download each manual from the list at this link. Good luck with your Brick!
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K1100LT Paralever looking intresting
« Last post by Garfield on September 13, 2026, 09:07:59 AM »
Indeed, the paralever looks perfectly normal, just as it should be !
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K1100LT Paralever looking intresting
« Last post by Scott_ on September 13, 2026, 08:59:08 AM »
For your knowledge, you have an early K1000 as identified by the ABS1 module on the side.
The paralever looks normal to me.
Where the rubber boot is, it is bent as there is a pair of bearings/bushings at the pivot point, and inside is the drive shaft with a u-joint and a sliding joint to allow flex as the suspension flexes. There is another pivot point and u-joint behind the plate where the foot pegs are mounted.
You will find that the original shock is 'less than ideal' for a smooth ride. Some like that, others have replaced it with aftermarket. I will admit that as these bikes continue to age, the choice of aftermarket options is declining.
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The Motobrick Workshop / K1100LT Paralever looking intresting
« Last post by EnderD02 on September 13, 2026, 04:21:15 AM »
Hey!
I just bougth a K1100LT and am in the process of getting familiar with it. I noticed that my paralever looks intresting like if something was broken inside… I have never had a bike with a driveshaft let alone a BMW bike so I am a bit helpless. Is it normal to look like this bent? In the uploaded picture it is on its kickstand without anyone sitting on it or any of the hardbags. I didn’t take a picture of it when it is on middlestand, but when it is, the paralever looks bent at the rubber part the same way like in this picture, while the rear wheel is in the air, not touching the ground. So what is aour opinion? Is it fine or does it have some problem?



1992 K1100LT (metallic blue), Hungary
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Project Classic Motobricks / Re: My Second $500 K75 Project
« Last post by Smudgemo on September 12, 2026, 09:50:07 PM »
Saturday morning rolled around and I decided to start taking the bike apart and figure out what's wrong.  BMW was right, it is a pretty easy bike to work on.  Sure is nice to have access to the shop manuals and online knowledge as opposed to something newish that a dealer is required for help.

I got things stripped down pretty quickly so I could figure out what went wrong.


* Block.jpg (102.06 kB . 767x576 - viewed 37 times)

As far as I can tell, the head gasket had a breach at the bottom of #1.


* Cyl1.jpg (81.87 kB . 767x576 - viewed 38 times)

Once I got it cleaned up, it looked like the casting was questionable.  Like the surface area in this spot was minimal, so maybe the overheat event didn't take much to create the problem?  I don't know, I'm spitballing.  I never opened up one of these engines before, but this looks pretty iffy for QA.


* 20260912_225651801_iOS.jpg (59.61 kB . 768x504 - viewed 35 times)

I was also concerned that the head was warped, and maybe it is, but I have a granite surface plate in my shop, so I glued down a sheet of 1000 wet or dry and gave it a look.  Not shown, but I painted the surface with Dykem just to see.  It looks pretty good other than where some corrosion occurred.


* Head.jpg (74.33 kB . 767x576 - viewed 32 times)

Everything else I took apart looks good, so I'm going to order the new head gasket and the pump rebuild kit, and see what happens.  I didn't notice any damage to the cam journals or the cylinder walls.
30
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1994 K75C Fuel Tank Compatibility Quastion
« Last post by Laitch on September 12, 2026, 05:16:37 PM »
Quote from: 3dachshunds on September 12, 2026, 10:03:23 AM
AI says 1993-94 model year has 130 mm distance between front mounts, whereas older ones (I am specifically looking at one from 1991) have 90 mm.
I'm unclear about what is being measured here. Anton Largiader of Virginia Motorrad indicates on his site that it is the widths of the tank's frame mounts (the "paddles") that changed from 90mm to 130, not the distance between them. Please read the data in the last paragraph on his tech page and help me to understand. VM K75 fuel tank specs 
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