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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Idonthaveaclue on December 19, 2016, 11:36:57 PM
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Hi all- just chronicling the progress of my BMW K75S as I learn and try to have a clue. Kind of new to wrenching, but getting better!
Start:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/ee15a294dcb03009e69e0700ee50071e.jpg)
Also have two hard bags in rough shape.
This is going to be fun!
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Splines:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/7d0f1172ad1fdcf3c1da240e1e74660f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/c9c26803660b50aa89491eac9dfb2308.jpg)
Look ok - wasn't really expecting a mess. It has under 30,000 miles on it. The engine seems to be covered in oil, but the belly pan was dry. Also slapping some Shinko 230s on her and we'll see where that gets us.
Hover bike:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/24b8afa56066f51ab161c8d662c1c93a.jpg)
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Trade ya splines :yes
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For being new to wrenching, it seems like you've made a good start. Many people can go their whole life without getting both wheels off a motorcycle at the same time. Just for peace of mind, you might consider some sort of support at the front and/or back to prevent unwanted tilting.
Are you going the rest of the way in so you can lube all the splines?
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tragkorbs can be refurbished, cracks can be plastic welded, and scratches can be buffed out. With deep scratches start with medium grade wet and dry progressing through to fine and finish off with fine cutting compound and plastic polish. I finish it off with 2-3 coats of Forever Black bumper and plastic restorer followed by a couple of coats of Surf City's Black Max. Trace oil leaks by cleaning the engine with degreaser then once dry spray the area with spray on talc. If needed start the engine the leak will show easily through the talc.
Regards Martin.
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Scud: The clutch felt great and it shifted fine. Plus these spline actually had grease on them. Maybe the next tire change?
Martin: That's a great idea.
Any secret to cleaning the grease off the splines?
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Degreaser and the wife's toothbrush, clean it before you put it back.
Regards Martin.
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Re: Wife's Toothbrush
Definitely clean it AND RETURN IT
I got busted on this. Cleaned the carb on my Ford whilst living in a share house. Chose the tattiest toothbrush in the bathroom. Worked a treat until...
Where's my toothbrush?
"OH F#*K... Uhmm (etc etc)... I was going to buy you a new one"
Lots of swearing.
Mate saved me by finding another.
And the footnote?
Car went better
We got married.
So if this is a share house hold - chose carefully and don't return
If already married: Tread carefully
G
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Go get'em! Yank the DS out all the way and grease the other end too.
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Go get'em! Yank the DS out all the way and grease the other end too.
Mlytle- do I use pull it out? Or do I have to remove the swingarm? Does it just slide back on?
I'm recently engaged, not brave enough to flirt with death....
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161221/683da8c497dce233a547617de7d0d8b5.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161221/bd8368908641af1bab6e720f625691ac.jpg)
Just waiting on fed ex to get here with my Clymer and Moly grease.
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Clamp vise grips on the shaft as close to the end of the swing arm as you can get and either pry the shaft out or give the vise grips a good whack with a heavy hammer.
Getting it back in, get the swing arm horizontal, slide the shaft in and get it started on the transmission splines. It should slide back a little once it's lined up. Then a good whack on the end of the shaft with that heavy hammer will push it down past the locking ring. When it's in all the way, it won't easily slide out when you pull on the shaft.
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I was refering to pulling DS out of swing arm. Yes, it just pops out. Grab end with channel locks, then tap pliers with hammer.
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What's in a name?
The Mighty Gryphon: "...vise grips a good whack with a heavy hammer."
mlytle: "...tap pliers with hammer."
:hehehe
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Hey! I want full credit for calling them two different names....channel locks AND pliers!
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What's in a name?
The Mighty Gryphon: "...vise grips a good whack with a heavy hammer."
mlytle: "...tap pliers with hammer."
:hehehe
Sometimes ya just gotta let 'em know who's boss...
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Drive shaft came out pretty easy, thanks fellas.
Finally took it for the first ride. Smoked a bit, and then again after getting gas. Valve seals?
However I've never rode a bike that's so smooth!
So the odometers broken and I found a very suspect fuel line....
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/2d695e90d7403c79186c9d3dab869df4.jpg)
Added a battery tender pig tail for heated gear and trickle charge.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/61152cdb535c63d427be4d75c7751ba1.jpg)
Not bad for a 30 year old! (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/7f638d0df8d83c72cb8aabfa4a075901.jpg)
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Congratulations. It's electric-smooth, right? :clap:
I'd put new fuel lines (3 required) at the top of the to-do list if I were you. IMO, it's worth it to buy the pre-shaped, BMW one that goes from tank to behind throttle bodies, but you can easily use standard fuel line (off the roll at the auto parts store) for the other two.
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I'd put new fuel lines (3 required) at the top of the to-do list if I were you. IMO, it's worth it to buy the pre-shaped, BMW one that goes from tank to behind throttle bodies, but you can easily use standard fuel line (off the roll at the auto parts store) for the other two.
YES! next immediate task is replace all the fuel lines. that one in the picture looks bad. probably original. like scud said, get the bmw one for behind the TB's. heck if you are ordering, just get them all from BMW.
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At $136 from MaxBMW I didn't bother to replace the one to the TB's but maybe I will revisit that since everyone says you should.. let me just get Turkey season out the way first - the fact that I pay 50% extra in shipping and tax has made this an expensive project - I think I could have got a 2008 K1200 RS and have been riding for the last eight months for less money.
There again where is the fun in that???
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Finally took it for the first ride. Smoked a bit, and then again after getting gas. Valve seals?
Probably not. Some of them just like to smoke, and yours' is legally old enough.
So the odometers broken ....
Pretty common, the plastic gears tend to go mushy and literally fall apart. Somewhere there is a link to a place you can get replacement gears but they're pricy
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price is not a good reason to not replace an ancient high pressure fuel hose. fuel lines are a safety issue. replacing every piece of rubber anywhere on a 25+ year old bike is an expected cost of owning old stuff....
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I agree. The fuel hoses were one of the first things I got. The whole thing has moved on a lot since then so yes - in January new hoses are on my list...
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Give the brick some time to settle smoking may settle. A mates brick that had been left sitting was a prodigious smoker but with miles under it's belt now smokes only if left on the side stand or after sex.
Regards Martin.
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I'd put new fuel lines (3 required) at the top of the to-do list if I were you. IMO, it's worth it to buy the pre-shaped, BMW one that goes from tank to behind throttle bodies, but you can easily use standard fuel line (off the roll at the auto parts store) for the other two.
Ok - newbie question. I can only find one "pre-formed" fuel line on MAXBMW.
Part # - 13 31 1461 077 ($27.93) This is the cracked line shown in the photo to the fuel rail.
What are the other three? And the hose that goes from the crank to the air box?
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51745&rnd=12082016 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51745&rnd=12082016)
:dunno2:
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1. tank to fuel pressure regulator (pre-formed)
2. regulator to rail
3. tank to rail
4. crankcase (z) breather hose
5. caps on throttle bodies
6. union of throttle bodies to intake
7. vacuum line from pressure regulator
ALL RUBBER IS SUSPECT! :bmwsmile
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Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.
Put your bike's model and year in your profile so it will show up in every post; if you do that, responders won't need to backtrack to find out. How many miles on the seized odometer?
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Agreed, all the rubber is suspect. Some failures are bothersome (oil from a breather line) others are potentially catastrophic (gas fire).
Here's how to avoid buying the pre-formed line to the pressure regulator - by using a spring to help the line make the bend without folding. I did it when time was of the essence. You can see that the fuel line still has a small fold in it. I plan to replace it next time I'm in there (which requires removal of airbox.)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4208.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4208.jpg.html)
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1. tank to fuel pressure regulator (pre-formed)
2. regulator to rail
3. tank to rail
4. crankcase (z) breather hose
5. caps on throttle bodies
6. union of throttle bodies to intake
7. vacuum line from pressure regulator
ALL RUBBER IS SUSPECT! :bmwsmile
8. brake lines
9. coolant hoses
10. monkey nuts
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Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.
Put your bike's model and year in your profile so it will show up in every post; if you do that, responders won't need to backtrack to find out. How many miles on the seized odometer?
I think I broke the odometer some how - it was working when I test rode the bike. 29,700 ish.
1. tank to fuel pressure regulator (pre-formed)
2. regulator to rail
3. tank to rail
4. crankcase (z) breather hose
5. caps on throttle bodies
6. union of throttle bodies to intake
7. vacuum line from pressure regulator
8. brake lines
9. coolant hoses
10. monkey nuts
The list is exactly what I needed - Thanks Fellas!
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I think I broke the odometer some how - it was working when I test rode the bike. 29,700 ish.
The list is exactly what I needed - Thanks Fellas!
it is everything i replaced in my thread....:-)
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click on the project thread link in mlytle's signature. Read through that and you will be able to decide what you'd like to do - and get a sense of how it's all done. You will definitely have a clue after reading that.
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click on the project thread link in mlytle's signature. Read through that and you will be able to decide what you'd like to do - and get a sense of how it's all done. You will definitely have a clue after reading that.
Then click on this (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm) to clue yourself into the system's parts and their relationships.
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Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.
These are inside the tank...
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Found a local that fixes speedo/odometers and he's a K bike guy. Thinks he can repair the gears. Fingers crossed. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/84f6788bc758cfa44db26afc1dd5fb0a.jpg)
Also how is this suppose to be routed? Through the middle? Or around the side? And the grommet goes where?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/9b58e836239b243e0c367b46707f4df4.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/34e06b093f1c4bf88f9e1db97720586f.jpg)
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It's routed like this:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4166.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4166.jpg.html)
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It's routed like this:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4166.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4166.jpg.html)
Perfect - Thanks a bunch Scud!
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All back together and no extra parts! The guy cleaned in up a bit, but didn't have the 3v lights it needs inside. What's the suggested route? Also the little parking light inside the headlamp. Where should I get one of those?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/5b59d3077ed27cd25d29b429cf7d488e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/9c5c977110b274c51639550144705fc9.jpg)
Just wanted to say this forum has been super helpful - and has some great information. Really appreciate y'all.
If you're ever in the Atlanta area -look me up I owe y'all a beer.
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What's the suggested route? Also the little parking light inside the headlamp. Where should I get one of those?
If "suggested route" means "where do I get the bulbs", you can get them from MAXBMW or Pandora using their microfiche sections. The parking light bulb you should be able to get at an auto parts store. Take it with you.
The Riders Manual lists the bulb types. If you don't have a manual you can download one from this site. Your gear position indicator looks wonky. You can deal with that later but there is information on repair in the Technical Library here, if it needs it.
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If "suggested route" means "where do I get the bulbs", you can get them from MAXBMW or Pandora using their microfiche sections. The parking light bulb you should be able to get at an auto parts store. Take it with you.
The Riders Manual lists the bulb types. If you don't have a manual you can download one from this site. Your gear position indicator looks wonky. You can deal with that later but there is information on repair in the Technical Library here, if it needs it.
I haven't had much luck finding it local, and it was an empty socket when I got the bike..... I like the idea of switching to LED and they seem to be much cheaper. Which base does the bulb have?
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For my K100 it is BA9s and it looks like it is the same for your bike - btw the fiche you posted is for a K75 not a K75S like you have - not a big deal in this case but be sure you have the right model selected when ordering parts etc.
Not sure of the price is the US but when I got a replacement bulb like you need here in Costa Rica it cost me less than 20 cents so cheaper is probably going to be hard to find!
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Your parking light is one place where an LED probably isn't the best way to go. Most LED's have a pattern where all the emitted light goes axially straight out. You need a bulb with 360 degree radial pattern.
Some LED replacement bulbs can have their diffusion improved slightly by lightly scuffing the clear part of the lens with 600 grit sandpaper. Still, a regular bulb may be the way to go.
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So, went on a longer trip than usual. I've found that the rear shock is "sticking" in the compressed position.
Is it time to Ol' Yeller it? Or can we revive it?
(http://i.imgur.com/UFRmKsj.jpg?1)
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Scrap it. The stock shock can't be re-built.
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RAD shocks in Brisbane does rebuild OEM shocks . I am currently running one and it is apparently better than OEM. I would assume that someone in the US would be doing them.
Regards Martin.
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Contact Works Performance:
http://www.worksperformance.com/
They claim to be able to rebuild and tune anybody's shocks. They also have a line of shocks designed for K bricks.
They should be able to tell you what to do.
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For a budget replacement, I put a new Progressive shock on my K75s - I think it was a little over $200. It was great improvement over the dead stock unit. Then I found an Ohlins (on another bike) and paid dearly (close to $500) for it to be rebuilt. Now it is so superior that I will have to invest in the front end.
So... it's about whether you want reliable transportation or whether you really enjoy an upgraded suspension.
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I didn't know anyone was rebuilding the stock shocks. I have run Works, Progressive and Fox shocks. I prefer the Progressive.
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I didn't know anyone was rebuilding the stock shocks. I have run Works, Progressive and Fox shocks. I prefer the Progressive.
Ok Progressive also seems to be the cheapest. What model? Can I adjust for luggage/ my old lady?
For a budget replacement, I put a new Progressive shock on my K75s - I think it was a little over $200. It was great improvement over the dead stock unit. Then I found an Ohlins (on another bike) and paid dearly (close to $500) for it to be rebuilt. Now it is so superior that I will have to invest in the front end.
I'd like a better ride - and figured the front springs needed love too. But 5 hundo seems excessive.....
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You own a Beemer, you're rolling in cash... :hehehe
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A premium shock with a reservoir and remote pre-load adjuster starts at probably about $1,200 and goes up to as much as you feel like paying. Suspension can get expensive.
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I am 52 and am using the brick to introduce my wife to bikes for the first time in a central american country where the horn is a far more important part of any car than the brakes.
I have chicken strips a mile wide lol.
I have no need for a $1200 rear shock.