MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: YoungEngineer on October 27, 2016, 10:19:14 AM
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I have a 1994 K1100LT with 92,000 Miles. The bike is reasonably well serviced has had a recent clutch, spline lube, rear main seal, FD Pivot bearings, TB sync, oil, filters, pads, plugs etc replaced recently.
I will soon be embarking on a 10,000 mile trip around Europe using the K11 to which I have been labelled as a madman due to the age and mileage of the bike. I have been advised to take a newer lower mileage bike instead which would be "Sensible" but this advice has been given to me mostly by friends who never keep a bike for more then three years before trading them in for newer models and seem to have an opinion that every vehicle older then 2008 is old and likely to explode into a ball of flames.
Anyway I am convinced that the K11 is still good and wont cause anymore grief then its more modern brothers, with the correct maintenance of course. I am looking for advice on the things that could possibly go wrong which I may have overlooked.
Since I don't have any service history its hard to know exactly what has been replaced and at what point. Based on the mileage of the bike It would be great if someone would be able to give me a list or breakdown of what components I might expect on failing soon.
Some of the components I am concerned about are the following.
Cam chain (No rattle but still unsure)
Fuel pump (Filter states 1998 so I can only assume the pump is still original)
Starter and alternator brushes?
Wheel bearings? (They seem ok with no play how long they would last Im unsure)
Oil/Water pump?
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clutch and throttle cables
brake hoses
coolant hoses
TB boots
it ain't too old! just reaching its prime!
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I would change the fuel filter and pay attention to the fuel pump housing for brittleness (They can dissolve too). That creates a mess floating in the bottom of the tank that can clog the filter. I wouldn't trust anything to work that normally should be replaced at specific intervals. Even a low mileage bike can fail if those items are neglected.
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Make sure you have Moto Bins and Motorworks phone numbers. Replace coolant and replace brake, fluid check brake pads and tyres. I carry spare clutch cable, throttle cable, clutch lever, front brake lever, spark plugs, fuses, fuel hose and clips,cable ties, insulation tape, 2 jumper wires, tie wire, silicone hose repair tape, tyre repair kit and CO2 bottles & small bottle liquid hand cleaner used for leak detection, old T shirt used to pack the stuff in the tail . First aid kit, insect repellant, sun screen, WD 40,OEM tool kit plus 1/4 drive socket set with two extensions and u/joint and knurled finger drive, test light, sharp pocket knife, extra tools you think you could use, photo copy of wiring diagram, spare key or keys, I also carry one ignition key in wallet. Credit card, hidden money or both. This all fits in the tail and under seat tray with the exception of the sunscreen a insect repellant. And I would ride my bike anywhere it is the most reliable vehicle I have owned, it always gets me home.
Regards Martin.
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Depending on your own experience with your bike including maintenance,I would go at the drop of my hat.yours will be the one that will be the most reliable.Be reasonable with any excessive demands and monitor things like wheel bearing heat if your concerned.
Maybe,take "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance"by Robert Persig along for the ride.Have fun!
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Maybe,take "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance"by Robert Persig along for the ride.
Take it if a temporary mechanical breakdown doesn't make you feel miserable enough. :giggles Anyway, Persig and his son were riding a CB77. That's why there's so little in the book about maintenance. :hehehe
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Any part you bring will guarantee you won't need it. Just have zip ties, super glue, duct tape, and vice grips handy.
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Make sure you have . . .
A few essentials I'll add to Martin's list:
Satellite phone
Flare gun
Choice of storm whistle, cowbell, or telescopic vuvuzela
Lightweight copies of The Old Testament, The New Testament, The Quran, The Book of Mormon, The Vedas
Bag of Milk Bones
Bag of Hershey's Kisses
Portable water purifier—First Need is excellent; Katadyn filtration systems are ok.
Lastly, if you haven't learned how already, learn to juggle.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm actually really quite surprised that everyone recommended such obvious items. I thought I would be pushed to complete a full rebuild just to be on the safe side.
So what I will do this weekend is replace the throttle cable (Already busted at the right angle leaving the switch gear) and the clutch cable and keep the old ones as spares.
All the other items are good ideas and worth packing. Certainly will be taking the motobins number too.
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The only things that I have used is the puncture repair kit on my own bike. However a couple of mates have used my tools, spark plugs, clutch cable, tyre repair kit, small torch which I always carry, cigarette lighter ( I don't smoke), electrical tape, cable ties, electrical tester and jumper wires, tie down straps, I sometimes think maybe they only ride with me because of mechanical support. :hehehe :dunno
Regards Martin.
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Any part you bring will guarantee you won't need it. Just have zip ties, super glue, duct tape, and vice grips handy.
+1. Have a great trip, and don't forget to post up pictures.
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Two questions: How many miles do you get before you've used up a quart/liter of engine oil? What condition are the drive shaft splines and universal joints in?
If the splines are good and you get more than a thousand miles per quart, I would say there is little chance of a major problem that would leave you stranded. Tim Tyler is just finishing a 3000+ mile cross country trip on a K75 with over 175,000 miles on it. Last July I did 7,000 miles in two weeks including a 24 hour 1500mile cross country blast averaging nearly 70 mph on a K75 with nearly 80,000 miles. 92,000 really isn't a lot for a K bike. You are riding a bike with a car engine capable of 250,000+ miles.
You might want to carry a fuel pump, monkey nuts, spare bulbs and fuses. A clutch cable, and spare brake and clutch levers. Things like plugs and fuel filters should be available almost anywhere you go. Throw some Techron in before you start the trip and make sure the coolant is topped up. Goes without saying you will be doing a complete fluid change, spline lube and mounting new tires before you leave. Check the brake pads bleed the system. I don't carry a throttle cable, just check it carefully for fraying at both ends before the trip.
Now get out there and get some yeehah.
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I would run the new clutch cable alongside old one, cover the end's so they don't get covered in crap and run the original to failure, then it's only a 10 min job to disconnect/ reconnect. Take a spare fuel pump and all the goodies others have mentioned. Ride. . . Enjoy
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Turns out in practice most of these spares,suggested, are redundant because most breakdowns arnt catastrophic if you are aware enough.You can limp towards help,one way or another,for instance,you don't need a clutch cable to change gear,throttle cables can be substituted for the idle speed(choke) adjusted to give you better than walking speed.The kill switch can be used to ultimately control engine breaking!(iced up throttle cables)
Where you plan to go you will have plenty of help and "kindness from strangers".This has been a very rewarding experience,for me at least....Triumph 650..Many a time riding on just one cylinder.Guzzi.
My K 75 has never ever broken down over a very high milage besides one or two punctures and a load shedding relay that the full moon helped with.(no lights)
Take it if a temporary mechanical breakdown doesn't make you feel miserable enough. :giggles Anyway, Persig and his son were riding a CB77. That's why there's so little in the book about maintenance. :hehehe
I had to read it twice to figure out his was a Honda.He went with a BMW rider and pillion wife,if I remember correctly?The book is bloody miserable,though.
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If you hang around here for any length of time you may come to notice that most of the threads here that deal with motobrick problems have two sources.
First, is the brick that is being put back into service after it has been abandoned/neglected for several years and suffers from corrosion in the wiring, fuel deposits from stale gasoline, and perished rubber bits. Once these issues are addressed they become reliable transportation.
The second is the brick that has had it's electrical system hacked up as part of a cafe project. I don't follow these threads that much, but assume that eventually they are made to work for what the owner wants to do with them.
There are other problems reported here, but most of them seem to be related to fuel pumps, the occasional Hall Effect Sensor, dirty starter, or ignition switch. A loose connector here and there will show up, especially for the tank.
Assuming that almost anyone with an old brick and an internet connection will find this place when they have a problem it's fairly easy to see that these machines do not have a lot of problems, even at their "advanced" age if they are maintained and used regularly.
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wish i was coming with you
i have a 92 k1100LT 85,000km and ride it hard with oil and filter changes every 5000km
i don't think you will have a problem with reliability
look forward to your updates of tour trip
good luck
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Two questions: How many miles do you get before you've used up a quart/liter of engine oil? What condition are the drive shaft splines and universal joints in?
Oil usage since I reverted back to 15W50 is very low, I would say 1L per 5000 miles but I have not had a trip long enough to confirm since the change the level is unchanged for the past 1000miles. Infact this could be due to the use of Amtech Engine restore but when I used 10W40 on long trips over 1000Miles at speeds greater then 90Mph I would notice around a liter per 1-2000 miles
You might want to carry a fuel pump, monkey nuts, spare bulbs and fuses. A clutch cable, and spare brake and clutch levers. Things like plugs and fuel filters should be available almost anywhere you go. Throw some Techron in before you start the trip and make sure the coolant is topped up. Goes without saying you will be doing a complete fluid change, spline lube and mounting new tires before you leave. Check the brake pads bleed the system. I don't carry a throttle cable, just check it carefully for fraying at both ends before the trip.
Now get out there and get some yeehah.
I was actually fearing the worst but shocked to see the clutch output splines as well as shaft and FD look brand new. All the bulbs front, rear and even instruments have been upgraded to LED so should last some time.
Coolant system I drained and refilled myself with quality coolant.
Tyres are brand new K60 scouts.
Yes they do despite overwhelming skepticism and comments from everyone I meet handle just fine but the bike does turn into corners slower so thus benefits from lifting of the back and dropping of the front forks and inch.
As for the breaks, I fully bled the system when I first bought the bike over a year ago as well and stripping the calipers and cleaning the pistons which now all move freely. As for the lines, since the ABS modulator is dead I am considering ripping the ABS out completely and replacing with direct braided lines all round as I don't really trust the 20 year old rubber.
I would run the new clutch cable alongside old one, cover the end's so they don't get covered in crap and run the original to failure, then it's only a 10 min job to disconnect/ reconnect. Take a spare fuel pump and all the goodies others have mentioned. Ride. . . Enjoy
Good idea, I might just do the fuel pump now to be on the safe side.
If you hang around here for any length of time you may come to notice that most of the threads here that deal with motobrick problems have two sources.
First, is the brick that is being put back into service after it has been abandoned/neglected for several years and suffers from corrosion in the wiring, fuel deposits from stale gasoline, and perished rubber bits. Once these issues are addressed they become reliable transportation.
The second is the brick that has had it's electrical system hacked up as part of a cafe project. I don't follow these threads that much, but assume that eventually they are made to work for what the owner wants to do with them.
There are other problems reported here, but most of them seem to be related to fuel pumps, the occasional Hall Effect Sensor, dirty starter, or ignition switch. A loose connector here and there will show up, especially for the tank.
Assuming that almost anyone with an old brick and an internet connection will find this place when they have a problem it's fairly easy to see that these machines do not have a lot of problems, even at their "advanced" age if they are maintained and used regularly.
Yes I did get that feeling. I've learn my mistakes from previous "Cafe" projects. This one will stay as original as possible. The wiring loom seems intact and unhacked to my great pleasure. I've taken the time to go through the entire electrical system cleaning all grounds and corrosion between connectors (Which there was not much of anyway)
Turns out in practice most of these spares,suggested, are redundant because most breakdowns arnt catastrophic if you are aware enough.You can limp towards help,one way or another,for instance,you don't need a clutch cable to change gear,throttle cables can be substituted for the idle speed(choke) adjusted to give you better than walking speed.The kill switch can be used to ultimately control engine breaking!(iced up throttle cables)
Where you plan to go you will have plenty of help and "kindness from strangers".This has been a very rewarding experience,for me at least....Triumph 650..Many a time riding on just one cylinder.Guzzi.
My K 75 has never ever broken down over a very high milage besides one or two punctures and a load shedding relay that the full moon helped with.(no lights)I had to read it twice to figure out his was a Honda.He went with a BMW rider and pillion wife,if I remember correctly?The book is bloody miserable,though.
Great advice.
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Your photos are too large, YE. Please resize them to 250mm or less, delete the current ones and upload the resized ones.
What size are the Scouts? Do you have them mounted on stock rims with tubes? How fast do you intend to ride them?
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Your photos are too large, YE. Please resize them to 250mm or less, delete the current ones and upload the resized ones.
What size are the Scouts? Do you have them mounted on stock rims with tubes? How fast do you intend to ride them?
They are 110/80/18 and 150/80/17 and yes on stock rims.
High speed performance seems good, I never really go over 90 so they are well within their limits.
BTW this forum should have a picture resizer, its a very simple and widely available extension to SMF.
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They are 110/80/18 and 150/80/17 and yes on stock rims.
You needed to use a tube type tire on the front but not the rear. Did the front take a long stem tube or regular length? Standard tube or puncture-resistant?
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I could not answer those questions as I left it to the tyre fitters. But the front does indeed have a tube, the type or details of I could not describe. Puncture resistant you say? I did not know there was such a thing.
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Attached photo's. (Resized)
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I could not answer those questions as I left it to the tyre fitters.
Depending upon how far off the beaten path you are traveling, you should consider learning how to repair your own tires, if you haven't learned already. Tubeless are easy; find the leak with the tire on the rim, plug it then move on and eventually find a replacement tire. Tube-type tires will require removing the tire and replacing the tube, so a spare tube or two is essential. Having CO2 cartridges at the minimum for re-inflation is also essential. but having a small compressor is better.
If you're traveling where there is likely to be plenty of service then there is no problem except waiting for it to arrive, or getting to it.
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Thanks for the photos! You did a good job restoring that bike.
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Its not something I am familiar with. In previous trips I always carried a can of emergency tyre sealant. Its the stuff in a can that contains compressed air as well as a sealant to clog any punctures as well as re-inflate. Infact it has worked so well for me that I have used it as a permanent fix to most punctures with the so called (Temporary) repair typically outlasting the tyre itself.
There exists a product which is poured into the tyre prior to any puncture which creates an instant seal in the event that a puncture occurs. I have not heard much about it I think its called Green junk or something.
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Its not something I am familiar with. In previous trips I always carried a can of emergency tyre sealant. Its the stuff in a can that contains compressed air as well as a sealant to clog . . .
You've used that on tube type tires? Which brand is it?
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(http://my.frooition.com/080026/images/slime8oznew.jpg)
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Used Slime in my enduro tires back in the day. Sealing was hit or miss with the lower pressures(~25psi) we ran our tires at. Not advisable to put it in tubeless tires, especially if you have your tires changed by someone else. As with those beads that are used for dynamic balancing it tends to make a big mess, and causes much anger in the people who perform tire changes.
Overall, it sounds like your bike is more than ready for the trip. Instead of changing it now I would carry the spare fuel pump along with anything in the way of tools and peripheral parts necessary to change it. It doesn't take up much room and just by having that stuff along you will be guaranteed that your pump will not fail.
Now go and get packed, get the kick stand up and start putting some serious miles on that fine looking beast.
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Slime...
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Used Slime in my enduro tires back in the day. Sealing was hit or miss with the lower pressures(~25psi) we ran our tires at. Not advisable to put it in tubeless tires, especially if you have your tires changed by someone else. As with those beads that are used for dynamic balancing it tends to make a big mess, and causes much anger in the people who perform tire changes.
Overall, it sounds like your bike is more than ready for the trip. Instead of changing it now I would carry the spare fuel pump along with anything in the way of tools and peripheral parts necessary to change it. It doesn't take up much room and just by having that stuff along you will be guaranteed that your pump will not fail.
Now go and get packed, get the kick stand up and start putting some serious miles on that fine looking beast.
Good advice, thanks again. First stop Elephant Rally, Germany.
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Have fun.
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There is a very good community of K owners in Europe.
I use a K100RT just now and have a K100LT. I don't go K1100 because too much weight for me.
The K100RT is 1984 and in 3 years has just put its 5th set of tyres on it and I get 10-12,000 MILES a set. In that time it has never let me down. I happily take it to Europe and have also done cross Europe runs in 20 year old cars. Every time I have been broken down it has been cars under 5 years old, never older ones. My son gets breakdowns on much newer bikes and cars.
From my own experience around here you have got some very good advice. I would never take a newish motor for a long trip.
Inside my tragkorb lids are stickers for Motorworks and Motobins, with phone numbers and web addresses. Sorted and you will get parts sent anywhere in next to no time. If you want even simpler you can also use an Amazon/eBay/PayPal account that you have set up so you can still get stuff if you lose your wallet!. Just set them up on a different credit card not travelling with you.
Clutch cable: put in a brand new one but use the genuine BMW one and not a pattern. At same time replace the nipple AND the sleeve that goes round the nipple. Then check the lever because it wears where the nipple sits and creates a ridge that stops the nipple rotating fully......and so it pulls the cable at an angle...SNAP. Lube only the nipple regularly. NOT the cable. Then throw the old nipple in somewhere safe. Snap a cable, spare cable is great but that's when you discover the nipple went too and that it doesn't come with the cable......
Throttle cable, same but also clean and lube up the chain mechanism......
Somewhere tucked away you need......spare clutch lever, front brake lever and spare gear lever. Why? Some fekr may knock the bike over and snap them. I have had it happen twice. And, take the old ones off and clean the splines/pivots and grease them up...so you know they will come off when you are away if they get broken. I have a spares bike and thought take that gear lever as a spare. No such luck, it won't come off. But if that happens up in the Alps your spare is no use.....
Fuel pump can be bought in UK for £50 and is correct fit.
Brake pads and tyres before you leave....
Alternator monkey nuts, brake fluid change, clutch rod boot.
One not mentioned, fuel hose. This perishes and hardens and cracks easily when disturbed. Replace them, cheap, use the BMW screw hose clips from the R series, they are neat and mean you can remove the gas tank if needed. Don't leave the old pipes, seen a lot of fuel leaks on Ks from old pipes. cheap. Then get 2 small off cuts about an inch long, seal one end with mastic. If you do have to take the tank off slip them over the spigots, keeps dirt out and no leaks.
Add some cable ties, electrical tape, some wire, Jubilee or worm hose clips, electrical connectors, spare bulbs. Spare brake pads, had friction material come off one of mine at a wheel change with only about 5k miles on the pads, seemingly not unheard of. Plus I have found my rear pads don't last as long as the rear tyre. Not caused by a bad disc, disc was new. On LT its easy to use a lot of rear braking especially touring and lots of weight on the rear. Lots of hills is harder on brakes.
Make a small list of contact numbers for people with access to workshop or K parts. Like some time back I got a panic call for a fuel pump. Had one on my shelf so the guy had one in a few hours. I let people take the parts and they order a replacement to be delivered to me but it means they don't have to await delivery. I send stuff to Europe and it generally gets there in 2/3 days on regular mail.
Get both wheels balanced too. In France you have a 130km speed limit as in 80mph and you will travel at that speed because that's what the traffic does. You will notice imbalance or low pressure. Important too is that one these roads it's a sustained high speed and its where the Ks really shine. Higher tyre pressures are normal for this, I use 38psi front 110/90/18 and 42-45psi rear 140/80/17 and it feels like on rails.
Some tyres while brilliant in dry conditions are less than perfect in wet conditions. Pilot Road 3 and BT 45 are 2 very common options here. I have tried most and now don't venture from the BT45 as I ride all year and would wear a set out over the winter. Excellent in the cold too. Lots of local K1100 recommendations though.
If you are going very soon don't go at anything major. Sounds like you have done most of the stuff anyway. The oil/water pump generally doesn't do a catastrophic fail but will start to leak giving you time to work out sorting it and to get parts if needed. I would not do it just a few days before going because it's one thing that can occasionally need a second visit. If working well leave alone for now. I went across Europe in a 20 year old car with a very minor coolant leak at the thermostat and was going to sort it and decided not to. I threw the parts in so I could sort it if needed but it was fine. Did it when I came back.
I have one of the tyre repair kits with the little gas cylinders. Never used it on the K but I have got others out of trouble with it so they do work and no slime. Essential travel kit in my book.
Sadly my tool roll weighs in at about 2.5 kilos or over 5 pounds weight. However I can do any task with it and it has been very useful.
Enjoy the trip and let us know if you will be making it to Ireland. I had a very pleasant evening two days ago with a K owner visiting from Surrey who wanted to sample some beer.
Because we live on an island ferry travel is our norm. So I bring my own tie downs for going on ferries. As in work out how the K will be tied down and have a cable tie to clamp the front brake to stop it rolling off the stand. Also have a tie from the stand to the front wheel. The second use is if you did need a recovery a lot of the recovery guys are clueless about bikes and especially about Ks. Lots of Mediterranean ferries from Italy across to Croatia and Greece etc etc.....Malta Corsica Sardinia and more.
A very useful thing is a bicycle type of lock, a long wire one with plastic coating. Run it through the carrier, tragkorb handles and across the pillion seat. When you go somewhere you can use it to lock helmet or bike gear through leg or sleeve or other stuff to the bike for a short time.
The advice about some small amount of oil is wise. On the motorway in Austria at a services I saw over €40 for a 1 litre oil. Lidl sell them for €5 and most places no more than €10. Depending on your packing a 500ml Coke bottle with oil in it is a very useful idea.
And don't use E85 gasoline....
If you get to Ireland be sure we get to see you. Very active K community here.....Safe travels too!
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Thank you for this truly epic write-up. I had to read through several times to make sure I caught everything. Sounds like you really spoke from experience. If passing through Ireland I will make sure I swing by. Same goes for you if ever in London.
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I had my first mechanical scare today. I have noticed for the past few days that the gearbox/clutch seemed to be noisier then usual. There defiantly seems to be the bag of bolts noise coming from the general area although you do have to listen closely. I started the engine this morning and after letting it warm for a few minutes noticed a huge puddle of oil coming from the clutch pushrod arm seal which was replaced less then a year ago.
I can't see any traces of oil on the swingarm or rear wheel so I can only assume this is recent.
I am hoping that this is just a case of tightening the clamp around the seal and that the lower level of oil in the gearbox has caused the increased noise but having said this i'm now pretty worried that there is some major internal damage.
Also to note that the leak stopped as soon as I turned the engine off.
Any advice or re-assurement's are welcome!
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2crvw93.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2hgx0lg.jpg)
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I had my first mechanical scare today. I have noticed for the past few days that the gearbox/clutch seemed to be noisier then usual.
Where was the gear oil's level when you measured it with your oem shock absorber adjustment handle, or other device that you made to measure it?
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I'm guessing you are talking about this thing? I've actually never used it, when I filled the gearbox I used a measuring cup and filled it to spec.
I'm guessing I push it all the way in through the filler and there should be some oil on the end?
(http://i67.tinypic.com/anosja.jpg)
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On the K75 there is a line scribed across that handle. That's where the oil level should be in the gear box. Is there one on that?
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Yes there is. Il report back on the level. At this point it may be better to drain and refill with new oil.
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Sounds like you caught it in time if you didn't drive too far with that noise. Tightening the boot may fix the leak.
Don't use a measuring vessel. Fill gradually, checking the level with the gauge periodically and stop when oil reaches the line. That tool's handle should hang into the gearbox with its shoulder holding it from dropping further. Don't force it in. Rotate it until it drops in.
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It goes without saying that the measurement should be made with the bike on the centerstand.
Before refilling with good synthetic oil, it might be a good idea to put some inexpensive oil in and run the engine for a few minutes. Drain that oil and look for any metal particles that may have come out with it. You might want to stir the oil with a magnet to get an idea of how much metal there is and what the particle size is. That will give you some idea of how much damage, if any, has been done and help you plan your next move. Clean oil will be very reassuring. And if there is any metal you at least will know it is no longer in there doing more damage.
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Appreciate the advice. I went back this morning to check on the bike, its in a underground car park in central london so it can be quite hard going down there with all the tools. There was allot more oil this time. I found a huge split on the top half of the seal. How could this happen in under a year? Could my clutch setup be wrong?
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How could this happen in under a year? Could my clutch setup be wrong?
Your clutch is still on the other side of the case, isn't it? :giggles
Don't worry about it; just replace the boot carefully. Tighten the clamp carefully. Fill the case carefully according to instructions here.
I thought you were parked a Caucusas village being regaled with goathead soup and vodka while waiting for the weather to clear. Carry on. You've got fish and chips and curry handy to sustain you.
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How is your clutch cable adjusted?
I am convinced that the cable adjustment is more critical to prevent damage to the(obscenely overpriced) rubber boot than to the proper operation of the clutch.
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Also, any time the cable is disconnected at the bottom arm, something MUST be provided to prevent the arm dropping down and tearing the boot. Tie the arm up with a bit of string or a cable tie or place a block under the arm. In any event, support that arm!
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In any event, support that arm!
And the right to bear it, too!
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Your clutch is still on the other side of the case, isn't it? :giggles
You know I just had a thought, this all started right after a tried to drive off whilst forgetting the rear disc lock, it was a very slow pull off but I'm concerned i've fucked something up.
I thought you were parked a Caucusas village being regaled with goathead soup and vodka while waiting for the weather to clear. Carry on. You've got fish and chips and curry handy to sustain you.
That I would not even mind, goathead stew sounds like a good time and the vodka would go down well.
How is your clutch cable adjusted?
I am convinced that the cable adjustment is more critical to prevent damage to the(obscenely overpriced) rubber boot than to the proper operation of the clutch.
I'm almost sure the clutch was badly adjusted, I just don't see how this could happen in such a short period of time. I can only assume that the clutch arm was pulling excessively on the boot. I've just paid £30 for a new boot and oil... Overpriced indeed. When I fit the new boot I will make sure its adjusted with minimum tension on the boot.
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And the right to bear it, too!
I don't think they have that right across the pond :D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I don't think they have that right across the pond :D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We do, we can own pretty much anything that you guys can in Comifornia :) No handguns however that's a big no no. But its pretty easy to get a license you just have to be a member of a shooting club. I have a few friends with M4's, Lee Enfields and other large caliber rifles. No full auto either but as I understand that's pretty heavily restricted in CA also.
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I don't think they have that right across the pond :D
They're restricting access and control of clutch arms, too? Lamentable!
California is the UK of the West.
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The clutch arm only needs to flop down once to tear that boot that is made from unicorn foreskins. DAMHIK.
Driving off with the disc lock installed? OUCH!!! You may be in need of first gear dental work. Have you drained the oil and checked it for metal particles?
What happens when you rotate the rear wheel with the transmission in gear? Try it in each of the 5 gears and neutral. Any binding? Weird noises? Can you start the engine on the center stand and run through the gears?
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The clutch arm only needs to flop down once to tear that boot that is made from unicorn foreskins. DAMHIK.
Driving off with the disc lock installed? OUCH!!! You may be in need of first gear dental work. Have you drained the oil and checked it for metal particles?
What happens when you rotate the rear wheel with the transmission in gear? Try it in each of the 5 gears and neutral. Any binding? Weird noises? Can you start the engine on the center stand and run through the gears?
The cable was not removed so the arm has not been left to dangle. But I will bear that in mind when fitting again. Its hard for me to try that as my rear shock is set to the max height plus the extra tread on the tires means that they always touch the ground even when on the center stand. I might try to put a piece of wood under it tomorrow and check again. I will go back and check when the boot and oil arrives hopefully on Monday. If i've managed to strip a gear I will be really upset. I've spent way to much time and money on this bike to let it go so I would replace to gearbox with a low milage one, I decided a long time ago that I'm riding it until it quits!
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You know I just had a thought, this all started right after a tried to drive off whilst forgetting the rear disc lock . . .
That would have been handy to have mentioned with the grinding transmission description. :giggles
It's a singular way of viewing priority, YE. It might be even more inconvenient if expressed as "I bet nobody is on the other side of this curve. I'll just cut through it to keep up speed."
How many feet did you travel in slow motion?
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The noise I noticed before the disc lock incident. When I pulled away I used no throttle just idle so that should give you an indication of the speed. It was less then 1mph. I heard a thud and stopped. I did not mention it as I thought it would be impossible for damaged to be caused at that speed but I could be wrong. What did happen was that the boot started leaking oil almost immediately after.
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What did happen was that the boot started leaking oil almost immediately after.
How's this sound?
When you failed to remove the disc brake lock and it jerked you to a stop, the excessive amount of gear oil you put in the crankcase because you didn't use a gauge to check its level exited through the rip that you put in the clutch rod boot when you either installed it carelessly or sliced into it when you opened its packaging while trying out the Corona machete you bought for your 10K mile expedition. Once the oil found a path of least resistance, it followed you around London where you had the appearance to onlookers of a public works employee testing a road surface crack repair device. Nobody intervened because the Mad Max color of your bike with its menacing headlight grill was intimidating. Meanwhile, the gearbox started whining from lack of lubrication, eventually growling with resentment and malice.
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Uncanny - almost like you were there - or have been there and done that... :hehehe
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How's this sound?
When you failed to remove the disc brake lock and it jerked you to a stop, the excessive amount of gear oil you put in the crankcase because you didn't use a gauge to check its level exited through the rip that you put in the clutch rod boot when you either installed it carelessly or sliced into it when you opened its packaging while trying out the Corona machete you bought for your 10K mile expedition. Once the oil found a path of least resistance, it followed you around London where you had the appearance to onlookers of a public works employee testing a road surface crack repair device. Nobody intervened because the Mad Max color of your bike with its menacing headlight grill was intimidating. Meanwhile, the gearbox started whining from lack of lubrication, eventually growling with resentment and malice.
Your imagination and choice of words are something to behold. Hehe, no but seriously you should have been on car talk with that kind of investigative imagination.
You know, I was thinking this morning when I saw that huge puddle of oil that it must have been overfilled, I mean surly there should not be a half Liter/Quart of oil above the upper half of boot? Either way I don't actually think that I rode around with it like that otherwise the entire swingarm and wheel would be covered but there is not a drop, hmmm.
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Hmmmm,mechanical advice needed?
When using a forgetful padlock to disable you're bike disc brake also use a reminder that you have done that.I am absent minded enough to warrant a solution for this.A dayglo rubber band around my brake lever to throttle twist grip is good for me.
I once rode off with the stearing lock engaged!That didn't go too well.'Never done that again.
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Starter brushes have surfaced as the the source of all sorts of tertiary electrical glitches in my 105k K75s cleaning and dressing the brushes seems to be a nessessary periodic maintenance chore
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They're restricting access and control of clutch arms, too? Lamentable!
California is the UK of the West.
Indeed it is!
We do, we can own pretty much anything that you guys can in Comifornia :) No handguns however that's a big no no. But its pretty easy to get a license you just have to be a member of a shooting club. I have a few friends with M4's, Lee Enfields and other large caliber rifles. No full auto either but as I understand that's pretty heavily restricted in CA also.
"Comifornia" lol! We do get to own handguns but yes, no fully autos
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So the new boot arrived yesterday, the swap was trouble free. I adjusted the clutch so that the boot had minimal tension and stretch which should prolong the life. I also topped up the oil using the dip stick so everything seems well.
A second issue has occurred.
My charging system seems to be damaged, the bike has had problems starting over the past few days. I've not ridden the bike but I noticed that when revving the lights would dim. After 15 minutes idling the lights where so dim that they eventually went off completely including the idiot lights. Eventually the engine also quit, impossible to restart.
I cannot remember if the battery light was on whilst it was running but if i turn on the ignition (Without starting the engine) all the other idiot lights are on except the battery light.
This all occurred after I fitted a phone charger outlet which involved fitting new terminals to the battery posts so my first thought was that I forgot to reinstall one of the cables. I checked this first and all seems to be in place. Two cables connected to ground and one to positive?
I would also like to mention that in my great wisdom I remember that I stupidly managed to short out the positive battery post to the frame when using a socket to undo the positive battery post. Yes I disconnected ground first and moved it away from the frame but just as I was working on the positive terminal it swung back and touched the frame causing a split second short/spark!
Oh dear, what damaged might have I caused? I've not had much luck and I'm due to leave for France in a few days. I'm hoping its something simple but again the fear has got a hold of me.
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I've just conducted a little background research and it looks like the battery/charge lightbulb is needed to excite the alternator into producing power.
In that case the first step should be to replace the lightbulb as it is clearly no longer working. I will do this now and hopefully that will resolve the issue, fingers crossed.
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Two cables connected to ground and one to positive?. . . just as I was working on the positive terminal it swung back and touched the frame causing a split second short/spark!
Oh dear, what damaged might have I caused?
A photo of your battery connections might clarify things. When adding connections to either terminal it is cautious to have both terminals disconnected. Check all your fuses for function.
Replacing the light might get charging back—a valid observation. Cleaning the Motometer plug connections before reinstalling the plug will help insure function. Replacing fear with mindfulness will help you check all systems when you're back in action.
Sparks happen. Sometimes they are warnings; sometimes they are judgements. This one might only have been a warning—no smoke, no blast.
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Is your phone charger on all the time? If so, it will drain your battery over a couple day period. You want to connect it to a supply that is only live when the ignition is on.
When you disconnected the battery did you disconnect the negative wire at the battery terminal or at the frame. The proper place is at the terminal. Then there is no way you could get a spark off the positive terminal if the negative terminal is not connected. If you got a spark with the negative disconnected at the battery there may be something else going on with your electrical system.
You need the battery indicator bulb working to get the alternator to excite. It is possible to have the alternator self-excite with residual magnetism in the rotor, but you need to revthe engine to more than 2500 rpm, possibly as high as 4000 rpm.
How old is your battery? Your problems seem to indicate that it may be a bit past it's prime, especially with the recent charging issue, and it would be a good idea to replace it before going on such a long trip. If it has sat for a week or two with no charge on it, there is the danger that it has lost a significant portion of it's storage capacity. Batteries do not like to sit with less than a full charge.
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Once you get this sorted out, and have replaced the battery, get yourself a battery tender.....and use it. Never hurts to keep it juiced up. Or ride more often!
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get yourself a battery tender.....
That isn't going to help because where he's going he will be eating goat meat from a walnut burl bowl deep in the mountains far from the comfort of electricity. Right, YE? :giggles
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He's going to Vermont???
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He's going to Vermont???
How did you get that impression, Gryph. I didn't mention double lattes with that. :giggles
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I guess I got thrown off by the goat meat in mountains far from the grid. Never saw a wood-fired espresso machine.
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I guess I got thrown off by the goat meat in mountains far from the grid. Never saw a wood-fired espresso machine.
Come on up when the road is dry in spring. They're part of the scenic vistas.
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It's on my to do list.
Next time I want to do the 100 when it isn't snowing. A very fun road.
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Ok so some good news and bad. I changed the bulb and it made no difference, bulb was fine. I went to check the output directly from the alternator and noticed that the single blue wire was disconnected, once connected the battery light came back on and voltage started being produced once again! 13.80v at idle, no noticeable drop with all lights and accessories on, good news. I took the battery out and fully charged also. The other news which could be good or bad depending on your view is that I believe that the bag of bolts noise i heard from the gearbox is in fact from the alternator. It defianatly sounds like a bearing on its way out, I suppose this is better then the gearbox.
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Pull the alternator. You should be able to get it out after removing the battery. There are rubber cushions in the cup on the drive end. These are the infamous monkey knutz that are often found to be worn out and cause quite a clatter. A set will cost about 15 pounds.
When reinstalling I have found that putting soap on the knutz and using a pair of M8x75mm bolts with the heads cut off makes getting things together infinitely easier. Use a lube on the threads of the bolts and don't tighten them so they are easy to remove after you have the alternator in place. A black mark from a Sharpie pen to show where the slot in the knutz is helps line things up with the drive dog.
Hang on, you're getting there.
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Thanks Gryphon. I shall do that.
No one told me that buying a K would mean becoming a full time mechanic :)
I suppose i've learnt allot :)
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Once you have it sorted they are incredibly reliable. In 19 years it has never left me stranded, even some of the Japanese bikes have done so. Stick with it and you will be rewarded. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin
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. . . No one told me that buying a K would mean becoming a full time mechanic :)
OK, YoungEngineer. Here is a quick quiz for you.
Identify the person who wrote the following:
I would think pretty much every K owner out there is a semi professional mechanic by now . . .
The correct answer wins you a free counseling session at MOTOBRICK.COM! :hehehe
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Haha, touche, touche indeed.
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A solid understanding of the workings of your mount is the most important piece of luggage you can take on a trip like the one you are planning.
Confidence in the fact that everything is going to work properly until your return runs a close second.
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Haha, touche, touche indeed.
It's a clear indication you need to talk to yourself more often. Martin does that and his bike runs really well. :giggles
A solid understanding of the workings of your mount is the most important piece of luggage you can take on a trip like the one you are planning.
Confidence in the fact that everything is going to work properly until your return runs a close second.
Once I'm on the road, denial is Numero Uno.
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When you have multiple personalities it is sometimes hard to get a total agreement. So we have a vote and the majority win, this saves a lot of infighting.
Regards from all of us.
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Thanks Gryphon. I shall do that.
No one told me that buying a K would mean becoming a full time mechanic :)
I suppose i've learnt allot :)
I'm in the same boat. I'm having to learn so much just to get mine rideable but I'm loving it.
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Me too but I will say that it has given me a huge amount of respect for the machines. That I was able to ride my one at all when I got it is bordering on a miracle!
It has been botched, hacked, ignored and messed up for 14 years yet it runs...
I am getting pretty close now so we will soon see if I have made the situation worse or not!
Fingers crossed
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I'm not sure if I'm becoming paranoid now but it seems that I am finding more problems. Today I noticed that the gear lever is becoming more and more sloppy. There was always some play when I first purchased the bike but now there seems to be an inch or more. I've already looked into it and it seems to be a loose grub screw which involves taking the gearbox completely out again? Pretty much the spline lube/clutch process which I just did less then 6 months ago. You have to be kidding me..
My question is how bad is this likely to get? Could I ride 10,000km without the gear lever becoming so loose that it stops me from shifting?
What a ball-ache.
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My question is how bad is this likely to get? Could I ride 10,000km without the gear lever becoming so loose that it stops me from shifting?
It can get to where you'll be stuck in one gear. If you could ride 10K km without shifting very much, you'd be good to go. Otherwise you'd better fix it and be thankful it showed itself in the comfort of jolly old England instead of somewhere in a gnarled and apocalyptic landscape bereft of sympathetic counsel and latte.
There is plenty of Internet video and textual information concerning repair of that transmission grub screw, and that's not counting what you'll get here.
:yippee:
Consider learning how to apply anapana when confronted by apparent adversity rather than dwelling on genital comfort. :yes
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Yes Il remember the open mindedness and about being at peace with the universe when I'm hauling all my tools over to the multilevel underground carpark in central London which is usually filled with drug addicts injecting heroin into their genital area. I shall practice Yoga and perform a spiritual chant whilst dropping the transmission for the second time. That should help haha.
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The grub screw on my first brick was the first thing I had to confront even before bringing it home.
If it is any consolation to you, the job took less than 8 hours start to finish working in my son's driveway. As I recall, it is all pretty straightforward and the hardest part of the job was getting the grub screw back in. I think I dropped it off the end of the Allen wrench about 10 times before I finally got it started in the shaft. Most of the time was spent carefully removing parts and putting things back together properly. Total time messing with the transmission was less than two hours. I could probably knock two hours off the total today, since I had never been in a brick before tackling the job.
My only advice is to have a box of zip loc sandwich bags and a sharpie pen to label the hardware as you disassemble things. It will make reassembly go a lot faster to have what you need all together. Since you will be dropping the screw into the transmission a couple times, you will need a means of getting it out of some tight places. A small retrieval magnet or very long tweezers.
Besides your tools, you want to have transmission oil, anti-seize, spline lube if you haven't done them recently, Blue Loctite, Brake Cleaner to degrease the grub screw and the shaft it goes into, some Permatex black gasket maker, and a couple rolls of paper towels for wiping things down. It would also be nice to have some sort of stand where you can have the transmission standing on end when you split the cases.
I suspect the screw has been getting loose since you got the bike, so you will be in for a pleasant surprise when you get it tightened up. The shifting will be so much more positive.
Keep your spirits up, you are bringing a neglected brick back from the abyss and soon she'll be repaying you with miles and miles of roads pleasantly put behind you.
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. . . when I'm hauling all my tools over to the multilevel underground carpark in central London which is usually filled with drug addicts injecting heroin into their genital area.
Maybe they'll loan you some to help ease the ache from needing to do this job. :giggles It sounds like this job is not only going to aid shifting but also tone your quadriceps and increase your aerobic capacity. :2thumbup:
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The grub screw on my first brick was the first thing I had to confront even before bringing it home.
If it is any consolation to you, the job took less than 8 hours start to finish working in my son's driveway. As I recall, it is all pretty straightforward and the hardest part of the job was getting the grub screw back in. I think I dropped it off the end of the Allen wrench about 10 times before I finally got it started in the shaft. Most of the time was spent carefully removing parts and putting things back together properly. Total time messing with the transmission was less than two hours. I could probably knock two hours off the total today, since I had never been in a brick before tackling the job.
My only advice is to have a box of zip loc sandwich bags and a sharpie pen to label the hardware as you disassemble things. It will make reassembly go a lot faster to have what you need all together. Since you will be dropping the screw into the transmission a couple times, you will need a means of getting it out of some tight places. A small retrieval magnet or very long tweezers.
Besides your tools, you want to have transmission oil, anti-seize, spline lube if you haven't done them recently, Blue Loctite, Brake Cleaner to degrease the grub screw and the shaft it goes into, some Permatex black gasket maker, and a couple rolls of paper towels for wiping things down. It would also be nice to have some sort of stand where you can have the transmission standing on end when you split the cases.
I suspect the screw has been getting loose since you got the bike, so you will be in for a pleasant surprise when you get it tightened up. The shifting will be so much more positive.
Keep your spirits up, you are bringing a neglected brick back from the abyss and soon she'll be repaying you with miles and miles of roads pleasantly put behind you.
Yes indeed. I think its just one of those jobs that needs doing. I think I will save myself the grief and do it once in France in my cousins garage.
I have another question to ask the experts here. I have always noticed horrible mileage when driving in town. I usually get 45 on the motorway but in town only 30-35. The fumes always stink. I've checked the error codes on the computer (Nothing serious, no sensor errors) I have synced the TB's as well as set the TPS to 0.370V (2mm slack on throttle cable) I also notice that even on the very most coldest day (-1c to -4c) I never ever need any choke this to me indicates running rich. I am wondering if there is any way I can tune the air/fuel mixture using the idle bypass without the use of an exhaust analyzer? Are there any fancy tricks out there to achieve this? I know about pulling the plugs but its pretty labor intensive to pull them, re-install and check again, there must be a shortcut!
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I also notice that even on the very most coldest day (-1c to -4c) I never ever need any choke this to me indicates running rich.
Your bike doesn't have a choke that enriches the mixture. The "choke" increases the starting speed using the throttle. All mixture for cold and hot conditions is controlled by the engine management system sensors. Those can be checked using the troubleshooting guide here.
Your tank vent might be clogged and that is why you smell fumes. You cannot expect good mileage in urban traffic like London's, New York's, Chennai's or Miami's what with all the stopping, revving up to impress various copulation prospects, downshifting to avoid staggering drug users falling into the street on their way to your car park, and so on.
Be sure the air cleaner isn't clogged and if you need other tasks to take up your time there are plenty to choose from in the troubleshooting guide. :yes
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I started on a Christmas practice run to France. I wanted to see my grandparents and a friend who recently bought a farm pretty much in the most remote part of France often viewed as a Redneck area by many French. The total population of the nearest village was 6! I thought given all the space and lack of Heroin addicts this was quite the luxury for me and would make a great place to tackle the famous Grub screw which was recently dominating my thoughts.
The job took about a day, I managed to find everything I needed in the nearest village (30 miles away). I found a dusty French encyclopedia from 1997 on a shelf in the farm which i used to figure out all the technical terms in case I needed to explain to someone in French what I was trying to do. To my great surprise the motorcycle illustrated was a K75 which I thought was quite suitable.
I built a jig from two ladders and a plank of wood which worked well. I then extracted the entire gearbox with the shaft and final rive still attached since I lubed all the splines less then a year ago and the final drive pivot bolt seemed to be completely seized requiring some heat which I did not have.
I could not source any Honda Moly but I did find some extremely thick and tacky Graphite based grease which I used on the clutch input splines which were now completely dry.
I removed the grub screw, cleaned out all the threads, blasted with brake cleaner, dried and reinstalled with Red loctite. I could see where the out side edge of the tapered hole was starting to wear for the screw being loose but it would not excessive. I would imagine that If one left this too long serious damage could be caused requiring a new shaft.
Bike is back together and shifts so beautifully you would think its a new gearbox :) How did I go so long with that horrible shifting.
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Good work! Thanks for the pics.
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Nice Job!!! :2thumbup:
The job wasn't too bad, was it? How many times did you drop the grub screw??? I must have dropped mine into the case at least ten times.
I'm really liking your red neck engineering, you did the job in a pretty decent amount of time. These bikes are amazingly easy to work on for what they are.
Did you fix all those nasty noises the transmission was making?
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:clap: Good job, what's the graphite content of the grease and how thick is it. It might be of interest to our European & Brit members.
Regards Martin.
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Nice Job!!! :2thumbup:
The job wasn't too bad, was it? How many times did you drop the grub screw??? I must have dropped mine into the case at least ten times.
I'm really liking your red neck engineering, you did the job in a pretty decent amount of time. These bikes are amazingly easy to work on for what they are.
Did you fix all those nasty noises the transmission was making?
Thanks, my inner redneck always seems to come in handy in these situations.
It was not bad indeed but having done the splines less then a year ago made the process allot easier and when I say it took a day I mean a full day, 9am to almost 11pm. But there were some significant breaks including one where I had to move two mules Into a truck. The phrase stubborn as a mule is no joke.
I'm not sure if I actually dropped the screw but it was certainly fiddly as anything, at one point I thought the loctite would go hard before I had got it in.
The noise i talked about seems to be from the alternator and not the gearbox. That's another job I need to tackle.
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:clap: Good job, what's the graphite content of the grease and how thick is it. It might be of interest to our European & Brit members.
Regards Martin.y
It may be indeed. I looked for a LONG time in the UK and found very little. Most recommendations seem to be for greases only available in the US. I ended up buying a moly based grease of very poor quality on my first spline lube which flung off within a few hundred miles as I notice shifting worsened.
I'm not sure of the Graphite content but it is some of the thickest grease I have used, it's like tar or nutella.
I will look at the pot tomorrow and see if I can figure out any more details, it's available at BRICOMARCHE one of Frances most popular diy stores, like Home depot in the US.
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Have you looked for "high moly assembly lube" on eBay? Another source might be a supplier to the aviation industry as I believe that molybdenum lubes are used extensively on helicopters.
Would have been perfect time to do the alternator when the transmission was out.
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Mercury Marine do a high moly grease, Honda & Subaru car dealerships do a high moly spline grease.
Regards Martin.
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Guys I just wanted to share with you my latest issues! Yes there are more. I finally got back to the UK after a 10 hour ride through France in a -5C fog storm. When I arrived at the ferry port at 4AM there were icicles hanging from the bike some almost an inch long, the front grill was so iced up that the light was almost completely blocked, I wish I took some pictures but by then I just wanted to sleep. The fog got so thick towards the afternoon that you could barley see the trees on either side of the road, it was hitting the bike (and rider) and turning into ice.
Both my fork seals had started leaking quite badly which caused me to loose about 80% of my front braking power, this was not ideal as my rear master cylinder seal had started weeping a few days earlier after bleeding my brakes removing all pressure. So I was pretty much using engine braking at this point and what was left of the front brakes.
Anyway despite the obvious dangers I ended up getting home safe. I removed the front wheel and brakes and cleaned off all the contaminating oil from the pads and discs and inspected the oil seals. It seems both the springs in the seals are broken, looks like they rusted out and snapped leaving them hanging around where the cir-clips are so they will need replacing, a job I'm happy to take on.
I also decided to fit fork gaitors just to minimize the oil loss for now.
I want to replace the rear master cylinder completely. I don't think at this point its worth repairing. The rebuild kits are bloody expensive and the brake line fitting is already stripped, I used loctite to repair it last time which has worked since but I'm not sure if it will take another repair. Has anyone here used a third party rear MC? I've seem some cheap universal Ebay ones with the same bolt spacing, I wonder if they might work?
I'm also going to remove my alternator and replace the bearings and brushes. I have found the front and rear bearings for under £5 total. Does anyone here know what size brushes are used on the regulator? I would like to save as much as possible and solder new brushes in rather then replace the entire regulator.
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I wish I took some pictures but by then I just wanted to sleep.
The pictures you supply are good enough to tell the story, YE. Thanks. That grill picture is impressive. Anybody who hasn't ridden or driven in freezing fog should appreciate that one. It can be a slide-a-thon and is not a place I want to be for sure.
As far as your brush issue is concerned, start with this thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6406.msg43147.html#msg43147). Other threads might have more specific options.
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Good to hear you made it back ok. Reading your description of your ride gave me the willies. Ice is probably the scariest thing to ride in.
it sounds like you are shaking out a few more bugs in the bike. Won't be long when it will be as good as new.
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Replacing the rear master cylinder is the way to go. I am guessing that because it's at the low point in the system, when the bike sits for an extended length of time water in the brake fluid collects there and corrodes the bore.
I have one on my K75RT that has leaked since I got the bike. I have honed the bore and rebuilt it twice and it still leaks no matter what I have done. All I have done with all the fooling around done to date is increase the already stupid price for replacing it.
Bite the bullet, get a new one and keep the brake fluid changed.
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Does anyone on here know anyone who has used a third party, I.E non original rear MC?
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So i dropped the bike this week, first time ever on the K11.
The instruments now look off to one side, my first thoughts were that the bars were bent but upon inspection it seems like the front end (Headlight and front fairing) have been slightly pushed to one side.
My thoughts are to strip all the fairings off and straighten the front steel frame that holds it all together but that is allot of work!
Anyone ever had this problem? Any shortcuts or other things I should be looking at?
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My RT went down last summer and pushed the fairing slightly to the left. One of the fairing mounts broke from the fairing, but was easily reattached with epoxy.
I tried to straighten the steel spider that holds the front fairing. Thought I had it, but after getting everything back together it is still slightly off center. I am at a loss as to how to gauge the "straightness" of the spider to know when I have it right.
Fortunately, it isn't bad enough that I can't ride the bike. Am debating whether I should get a used spider for installation next winter. There seems to be a fair number of them on eBay. Price for new is bizarre, but with used you don't know if it is going to be any better than your old one. :dunno
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I learnt me what anapana means today.
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Yes indeed. It seems as though it will take some trail and error. I think I will start by removing all the front fairings and straightening the front steel bracket bit by bit and gauging the straightness by eye.
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The problem I had was that the four mounting points of the spider are out in space and seem to define a plane relative to the steering head and the center-line of the bike's frame. That plane exists in three dimensions and has no easy reference points to the frame.
I tried measuring to points in the frame, to points on the floor and using a spirit level. I got close, but still had some error that while not noticeable to a passerby, is still there and shows up as uneven gaps around the side pockets and a visual misalignment between the instrument cluster and the center of the fairing when the wheel is straight ahead. That is not to mention the difficulty in getting all the mounting points of the fairing panels, lowers and radiator trim to line up.
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Yes true indeed. Maybe I should try a less technical approach and just drop it on the other side :)
Either way it does not need to be perfect, I suppose I will try once and see what I get.