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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Motorhobo on September 28, 2016, 07:00:15 AM
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Bike fall down. Go f*&^%ing boom.
It was on the lift -- either tie-down failure or operator error, either way, it was some form of operator error, so chalk it up to s**t happens, dumbass. Anyway, it fell onto a work table placed next to the lift. The entire weight of the fall landed on the bar end of the handlbars, resulting in the whack shown in the attached pic.
My approach would be to put the front wheel in a chock, crank down the handlebar pinch bolts some, then use hose clamps to affix a crowbar to the bar at the best angle for prying the bent side back downward into shape.
If anyone has a better method or thinks that's a bad idea, let me know. I don't want to have to pull those bars off the bike because that's a huge pain in the ass. I have another set of bars but they're the stainless and have rust. Once concern would be that the handlebar clamp wouldn't hold the bars with that torque and would strip through -- but that didn't happen during the fall so I think that'd be unlikely with a more controlled, manually applied force.
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I'd be more worried about the handle bar "pinch bolt" mounts themselves not being able to handle the torque as they are mounted in rubber bushings, and in essence "floating", not really a rigid mount.
You won't like my suggestion, but I'll be the 1st to suggest that you get a new set of bars.
To properly straighten it, it really needs to be off the bike and stripped of all the "stuff" so you can really get it right.
By the time you go through all the disassembly to get them 'clean' you are exactly at the point to put all the stuff on a new bar set and be riding.
Good luck.
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Which style of bar is that, Motorhobo?
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Those look like the T style bars....also my 2 cents would be to change the bars avoiding any chance of problems with the Triple tree alignment. You don't have heated grips do you? If you don't, the exchange should be fairly easy.
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I'd be more worried about the handle bar "pinch bolt" mounts themselves not being able to handle the torque as they are mounted in rubber bushings, and in essence "floating", not really a rigid mount.
Thanks Scott -- that's what I needed to hear. I'll take a look at that before I do anything.
They are RT bars, and like I said I have another set but these are black and the other ones are stainless and I'd have to deal with the rust and paint them. Fortunately -- no OEM heated grips on this bike because swapping those out is a PITA of mammoth proportions.
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And....just to throw this out there.....I have a set of T bars that I could send you...just saying, [emoji4]
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So what are the T bars? According to the Lieberry, there are only 4 kinds of K-bike handlebars -- don't see a T listed.
Just curious -- thanks for the offer, though -- I'll just use the ones I have for now and maybe try to unbend them some other time.
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I'd be more worried about the handle bar "pinch bolt" mounts themselves not being able to handle the torque as they are mounted in rubber bushings, and in essence "floating", not really a rigid mount.
Thanks Scott -- that's what I needed to hear. I'll take a look at that before I do anything.
The bars isn't rubber mounted on the K75's........they're (to) smooth, so it isn't needed.
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So Inge, have you ever tried to unbend bent bars while on the bike?
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So Inge, have you ever tried to unbend bent bars while on the bike?
Not on a K.
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So what are the T bars? According to the Lieberry, there are only 4 kinds of K-bike handlebars -- don't see a T listed.
K75T was US only........a naked model with a lot touring extras, put together by BMW USA.
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Not on a K.
Hmmm...well, I'll take that to mean you have tried it on other bikes and it did work, or else you'd have mentioned that it didn't work :dunno
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Hmmm...well, I'll take that to mean you have tried it on other bikes and it did work, or else you'd have mentioned that it didn't work :dunno
That as on small bikes back in the stone age, the K bars seems more solid.
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OK, thanks everyone for your input -- I'll consider my options.
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Sorry, I mean I have a K75T....early unfaired touring model. From the picture it looked like the same bars. Tall bars that sit you in a more upright position. Mine are black and in good shape, just let me know if you want me to send them to you :)
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Thanks Brian -- I appreciate the offer, kind of mitigates the self-loathing from dropping the bike off the lift. Maybe I'll try to bend them back, and if I screw that up, you can send me a completely new front end :eek:
Let me think about my options and I'll PM you.
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Good luck with the bars. You probably already know this but it would be a good idea to re-align your fork tubes after all is said and done.
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i've bent S bars back straight while on the bike. They are much shorter with less lever arm than yours.
The trick is to use some long lever arms on both sides and loosen the pinch bolts so you don't break the top triple tree bar mounts. i think you will be surprised with how easy they bend.
Your bike should be easier since you have those long bare riser sections with which to use to apply torque without damage to grips, or if the bar ends are open you can insert a longish section of steel rod in each side and apply equal and opposite torque. The pinch mounts might hold but i wouldn't want to chance cracking one off.
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i've bent S bars back straight while on the bike. They are much shorter with less lever arm than yours.
The trick is to use some long lever arms on both sides and loosen the pinch bolts so you don't break the top triple tree bar mounts. i think you will be surprised with how easy they bend.
Your bike should be easier since you have those long bare riser sections with which to use to apply torque without damage to grips, or if the bar ends are open you can insert a longish section of steel rod in each side and apply equal and opposite torque. The pinch mounts might hold but i wouldn't want to chance cracking one off.
Ah -- torque to both sides -- that didn't occur to me. I guess for that you need two people. I probably would have just cranked it down and tried to bend the bent end down to match the other end.
I'll give it a try -- have to find something to stick in the ends. There are bar ends on there now but they unscrew easily enough -- at least no OEM heated grips to deal with.
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Good luck with the bars. You probably already know this but it would be a good idea to re-align your fork tubes after all is said and done.
No, I didn't know that. How do you mean? Aren't they aligned automatically once they're in the triple tree bores and the pinch bolts are tightened?
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No, I didn't know that. How do you mean? Aren't they aligned automatically once they're in the triple tree bores and the pinch bolts are tightened?
No, it is possible to twist the bars out of alignment during a drop. I first thought that had happened to you, but apparently one bar is bent.
An unscientific way to align them is loosen the pinch bolts and twist the bars straight. I have put the front tire against a post to do this.
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with the bike on the centerstand loosen the pinch bolts by the axle and the lower triple clamp. Sit on the bike and bounce the front suspension a couple times. That should let the tubes line up naturally and relieve any misalignment. I don't think you need to loosen the steering stem nuts but I could be wrong, or it may depend how much you tweaked the fork tubes.
PS: almost forgot, loosen fork brace also!
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my first choice would be to replace the bar.
last resort, take bar off bike to bend back.
I would not ever try to bend back while on bike and risk damaging something else in the process.
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my first choice would be to replace the bar.
last resort, take bar off bike to bend back.
I would not ever try to bend back while on bike and risk damaging something else in the process.
+1
And clean up all your switches and check/replace the cables while you're at it. May as well flush the front brake fluid too.
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+1
And clean up all your switches and check/replace the cables while you're at it. May as well flush the front brake fluid too.
Did all that before bending the bars -- including new brake lines. Hence the self loathing and teeth-gnashing.
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Mine got bent in an incident. I have the RT bars.
Motorworks sold me replacement for I think £15 and they were as good as new. They sent ones for heated grips but I just cut the end tangs off. Took very little to change them BUT check your connections after. My clutch switch connector plug under the tank got dislodged and I had a no start. I knew about his little risk and a quick check sorted it out.
If it was me I would not straighten them. I found a lot of internal corrosion in the old ones I took off, all down at the bottom part and would be concerned as to how well they would last.
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If you fit new bars, fill them with something like LPS 3 let it sit for a while them drain into a container for reuse. I do the same every few years with the centre stand. It stops rusting by leave a thick coating
Regards Martin.
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Finally got around to dealing with the bent handlebars, two years later. Yes, I've been riding with them bent but it's a sidecar rig and the only passenger is the dog and we only ride around this tiny hamlet we live in. Plus, the bike has had starting issues so it hasn't been ridden in nearly a year. So, time to deal with all this crap and get' her back on the road -- the dog isn't getting any younger.
Here's how I finally did this. Unless you're bike has a sidecar frame attached, make sure you have it tied down very good and the front wheel is chocked, because you're going to have to put a lot of torque on one side of the bar to get it to bend. I was surprised how much force it took.
Short story --
1) Get a long stiff breaker bar and use zip ties to position it below the bar that you want to bend downward.
2) Get some large hose clamps and clamp breaker bar to the handlebar.
3) Find something to support the opposite bar roughly parallel to the ground. I used a Harbor Freight roller stand but I probably would have been better off building something stronger wiith 2X4s since this HF thing is a piece of crap and wasn't really sturdy enough. Also, find a way to distribute the force between all the bits that touch the support instead of having all the torque concentrated at one point.
4) Make sure the front end isn't going to rotate when you apply the downward force. I used a long 2X4 between the fork tubes to neutralize that torque moment.
5) Push down on the breaker as necessary to bend the handlebar and check the system each time you do it because the breaker bar will shift around the handlebar. I had to adjust it three or four times.
It took a lot more pushing that I thought'd be necessary but it did bend back and appears to be fine. We'll see after I give it a ride once I get the starter issue sorted.
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bent my s bars rolling the bike out of my shed [forgot to pump up my brakes after a front wheel removal] I unbent them a similar way. removed the grip and slid a pipe over the bar. bent it right back. this is with heated grips too.
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I thought about sliding a pipe over the end, but that probably would have just bent the short end relative to the long end. Mine were bent down by the root of the bar, not twisted at the handle end, see the pic at the top of the thread. The only way I could figure to get the torque angle I needed was to extend the long pipe section of the handlebar by attaching a long lever to it so I could apply downward torque on that section.
Anyway, point being it's doable both in your case and mine, so for most folks probably new bars aren't necessary.
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greetings...
heat and leverage... do it... butts donts f-it up...
j o