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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: White Dog on September 07, 2016, 09:37:41 PM
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In the few months I've been on this forum, I remember a post on how to change something inside the gas tank to delay or speed up when the low gas warning light comes on. Mine seems to be about 50 miles early. I've calculated mpg almost every fill up and I should be able to go 180-200 miles before the light comes on. Yeah, I know. I can leave it alone and just go by the odo but I am curious to know how to correct this annoyance. have not been able to find the write up. Can someone point me to it?
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One suggestion was light bending the float rod down a bit.
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. . . I remember a post on how to change something inside the gas tank to delay or speed up when the low gas warning light comes on. . . . Can someone point me to it?
Is this (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender#109294) it, White Dog?
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Yep. That's the one. It was "over my head" when I first read it and it still is. Note there are no instructions for actual removal of the sending unit from within the gas tank. I also recall reading somewhere how to remove the sending unit but could not find it, either. Me thinks I will just rely on the odometer reading and try to ignore the low gas yellow light glaring at me. The tank is listed as 5.2 gallon capacity. Using 4.5 gallons as reference divided by a conservative 40 mpg, I should be able to travel 180 miles before getting concerned about refilling the tank.
One thing I failed to mention is last night, the light came on at 132.5 miles but went off at 132.7 miles, so that tells me I cannot depend on the light. I did fill up--took 2.85 gallons. Of the 3 cycles I own, the BMW is the only one without a gauge to view and with an inconsistent low gas light, I'm thinking a piece of black tape over the light is an easy fix.
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There are four screws on the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel sender in place. Remove those screws and the sender will be able to come out the filler cap opening (once the filler cap is removed; four screws there also).
Once you have it out, check that the float bulb is still intact. Your inconsistent readings might be due to the bulb having a hole in it that is allowing gas to leak in. I'm pretty sure you should be able to find a substitute bulb if your's has gone south.
The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you.
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Yep. That's the one. It was "over my head" when I first read it and it still is. Note there are no instructions for actual removal of the sending unit from within the gas tank. I also recall reading somewhere how to remove the sending unit but could not find it, either. Me thinks I will just rely on the odometer reading and try to ignore the low gas yellow light glaring at me. The tank is listed as 5.2 gallon capacity. Using 4.5 gallons as reference divided by a conservative 40 mpg, I should be able to travel 180 miles before getting concerned about refilling the tank.
One thing I failed to mention is last night, the light came on at 132.5 miles but went off at 132.7 miles, so that tells me I cannot depend on the light. I did fill up--took 2.85 gallons. Of the 3 cycles I own, the BMW is the only one without a gauge to view and with an inconsistent low gas light, I'm thinking a piece of black tape over the light is an easy fix.
Ahhh....0.2 miles is not inconsistent. Gas is a liquid. It moves. The level changes with lean, acceleration and decel. The sensor is a float. It moves with the level. It is reliable.
You dont need to take anything apart to adjust. Just reach in and bend the arm.
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Just because the tank says 5.2 does not mean it is all usable. The fuel pump will loose suction long before 5 gal are used.
If you manage to use 4.5 gallons, you had better be sitting in front of a gas pump refilling. ...
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Ahhh....0.2 miles is not inconsistent. Gas is a liquid. It moves. The level changes with lean, acceleration and decel. The sensor is a float. It moves with the level. It is reliable.
You dont need to take anything apart to adjust. Just reach in and bend the arm.
So you agree that the arm should be bent down? This would lower the float, resulting in the light not coming on until there is less gas in the tank?
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You don't have to bend the arm to adjust the float arm. There is a toothed wheel which you lever around with a small screwdriver.
Regards Martin.
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There are four screws on the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel sender in place. Remove those screws and the sender will be able to come out the filler cap opening
Impossible....as the mounting plate is mounted on the outside of the bottom of the tank, and is is much
bigger than the hole in the bottom of the tank.
The pot.meter, arm and float have to be pulled out through the bottom hole.
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You're right inge. It's been a few years since I pulled the sensor from my tank. Poor memory.
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I have mine apart, here's a pic maybe it will help you send where to bend it.
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Thanks for posting the pic. I'm guessing the longer rod which has the bulb on the end should be bent down as it lays in the pic?
If I have to remove the unit in order to bend the rod, I might as well do what several have mentioned and turn the wheel counter clockwise to lower the bulb.
In either case, I currently have a full tank of gas and can't do anything until I run the tank almost dry.
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***Yes (with disclaimer) If you plan to leave it in the tank and bend it, I would remove the 4 screws on the gas cap base and remove it, this allows you to get your hand in the tank, then you can feel the rod and lift it up and down (similar to the movement of gas) allowing you to figure which direction it rotates, then bend the rod between the bulb and the first bend in the rod.
***I've owned a BMW bike for about 1 week and it does not run therefore you may want to get a second opinion :hehehe
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Use the wheel, that's what it is for. :nono If you use the force you will go to the Dark side.
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Anytime I read the posts on this forum regarding fuel quantity indicators I have to smile. I have been a pilot for 45 years and the last gauge any pilot ever trusts is his fuel gauge. This applies to my motorcycles. The K75S I own has a gauge, I use it for reference only. When I leave on a ride I check my fuel visually and reset my trip meter to 0. I know my estimated range on the fuel visible in the tank and when I have reached the half way point I look for fuel. Seems to me alot of time and effort is expended on a rather useless indicator. Just my two cents worth. Craig
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Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)
I just dry fitted it back in the tank to see how it sits, If it doesn't read right when I'm done, a visual is always best.
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I know my estimated range on the fuel visible in the tank and when I have reached the half way point I look for fuel. Seems to me alot of time and effort is expended on a rather useless indicator. Just my two cents worth. Craig
+1
Bricks are too heavy to push far.Ive never run out....
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Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)
To which screw are you referring, Mwilson? Or is it the toothed wheel you can't find?
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Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)
I just dry fitted it back in the tank to see how it sits, If it doesn't read right when I'm done, a visual is always best.
From an earlier post above.
"The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you."
I presume if you turn this adjuster wheel, you should see the bulb rise or fall. If it falls, the indicator light would not come on as quickly. I personally do not know how much the adjuster wheel should be turned to delay the warning light coming on. The Clymer manual states how to R/R the sending unit but NOT how to change the wheel setting (which the book says the light comes on with 1.3 gallons left. Adjustment of the wheel (and pictures) is in the first post by Laitch. Bending the rod seems risky, as the book and these guys say "Don't do it."
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Laitch, Sorry, I missed the link earlier showing The disassembly and refurbishing of the unit. Now I see it, looks like a great project after I get this thing running but take it back apart if I decide to do a repaint.
For now, I'll just clean it up and start to get this thing back together.
Thanks!
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I chased up a picture of the toothed wheel. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.
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From an earlier post above.
"The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you."
I presume if you turn this adjuster wheel, you should see the bulb rise or fall.
No the bulb doesn't move--the adjuster just moves the electrical contacts inside the sensor that signals 4L remaining.
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No the bulb doesn't move--the adjuster just moves the electrical contacts inside the sensor that signals 4L remaining.
How many teeth should be moved to delay the light from coming on at 1.3 gallons left? My light comes on with 2.3 gallons still in tank. That would be about 40 miles on my cycle.
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AAAAAARHG!!! 23 post to bend a stupid rod. (or turn Martin's screw) Bend it, screw it, ride it!
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Bend it, screw it, ride it!
Do all three. Take no chances. Prevent apoplexy in Ohio at the same time!
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They were never meant to be that accurate, get someone to follow you around with extra fuel and forget about the light. Chaos or Laitch might volunteer, unfortunately I'm too far away.
Regards Martin.
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They were never meant to be that accurate, get someone to follow you around with extra fuel and forget about the light. Chaos or Laitch might volunteer . . ..
I volunteer. Come on up here and I'll follow you around—you provide fuel, container, cappuccino and pizza. Mondays and Wednesdays are open.
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What no profiteroles :lets-eat: Hold out for the profiteroles.
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What no profiteroles :lets-eat: Hold out for the profiteroles.
Too dangerous, Martin. I nap when I eat those.
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Had to google that. surprised it didn't involve Fosters
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Chaos you are a
Barvarianoops barbarian, you've never had profiteroles. Laitch what going on, I expect you to educate our brother Chaos on the delights of profiteroles and their close cousin eclairs. Brother Laitch go forth and educate this poor soul.
Regards a disappointed Martin.
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being unpretentious salt of the earth types here in the heartland we drop our haughty ways and call them creampuffs. this episode could have been avoided had you used our terminology. Of course, laitch probably calls maple syrup "acer nectar" or something baffling.
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Chaos I'll let brother Laitch educate you on the differences between profiteroles, eclairs and the poor old cream puff.
Regards a sorrowful Martin.
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. . . the differences between profiteroles, eclairs and the poor old cream puff.
The main difference is that profiteroles can't be left in a croaker sack while you're fishing because they're usually filled with ice cream. Nonprofiteroles are given away.
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AAAAAARHG!!! 23 post to bend a stupid rod. (or turn Martin's screw) Bend it, screw it, ride it!
Chaos, That's funny! You haven't seen anything yet. Go over to the CB1100 Forum and do a search for "RLETS."
As for the final repair, bending the rod seems to be the easiest and quickest to do, but maybe not the most accurate. But as I read on subsequent posts, the low gas warning light is not gospel--only a guide.
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Well since i have an empty tank sitting around waiting to be repaired i'll crack this loose.
Here's what the sensor looks like when looking down thru the fill port, a side view to see the little teeth in the circuit board, and how to insert the screwdriver from your tool kit between the lever tabs to move a tooth fore and aft.
This is what i reckon would accurize this thang: you could run it low on fuel, then put it on center stand and remove the fuel line at the forward end of the fuel rail and pump out all the gas (jumper rear terminal of fuse 4 to front terminal fuse 6) until the pump can't reach anymore. Then reinstall fuel line and pour in 4L or 1G, or less if you are sporty. Turn the key to ON and kill switch to RUN such that IC lamps come on. Insert tool kit screwdriver as shown in photo and lever the gear tooth fore and aft such that the fuel lamp just flickers and goes off.
Pulling the free end of the screwdriver toward the front turns the lamp on, and pushing it towards the rear of the tank turns it off. This be the action of the lever.
Now when you're ridin and the fuel lamp comes on you will know exactly how much fuel you have left before you have to push that heavy lump.
p.s. notice how clean that sucker looks from May of 1986...
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Here's what the sensor looks like when looking down thru the fill port, a side view to see the little teeth in the circuit board, and how to insert the screwdriver from your tool kit between the lever tabs to move a tooth fore and aft.
Thanks for the helpful photos, kennybobby.
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You're welcome--when i heard about the adjustment feature i had to find it and see for myself...
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AAAAAARHG!!! 23 post to bend a stupid rod. (or turn Martin's screw) Bend it, screw it, ride it!
Still good info for my archives...
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Kennybobby, correct me if I am wrong. The sending unit is mounted on the outside bottom of the gas tank and must be removed from the bottom. You lost me when you were talking about making the adjustment to the wheel inside the tank, but your pics appear to be of a sending unit out of the tank. If I put 4L or 1 gallon of gas in the tank, the sending unit has to be mounted to the tank--correct? (Otherwise, the gas will run out of the bottom of the tank.) I'm just a tad confused on the instructions.
BTW, I cannot see the sending unit inside the tank looking thru the fill hole. Yeah, I could take the filler cap assembly off the tank but won't now, because I just filled it on my way home Thursday night.
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i removed it to take pictures to show the gear and adjustment features. The adjustment is made while it is in the tank. When it is almost empty there is plenty of room for your hand to reach in there.
You have to remove the fill cap to see this toward the rear of the tank.
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Makes more sense now. Thanks for your help.