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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: jc55 on July 04, 2016, 10:10:18 PM
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Hello, Guys. Thought I'd try and contribute since I've gathered so much valuable info here. I picked up a dealership serviced bike last week that had traveled around the country, but has been sitting for the last 5 to 6 years. This one has about 31,000 miles.
The fuel pump was locked up, fuel lines brittle, so I cleaned the fuel tank, ordered a new kit from Euro motoElectrics, and am replacing all of the fuel lines. I've stripped the outside of the fuel tank chemically, removed all fairings, entire ABS system, and alarm.
I've scoured the internet looking at every alternative to cutting out the downward slant of the frame tubes under the seat, and in my humble opinion, there is only one for the look I'm trying to achieve. I just hope that I can pull it off. I'm making the tank angle and rear upsweep of the frame, the same angle.
I'll weld the rear of the frame at this new angle after a single pie cut but BEFORE cutting off the rear hoop. Hopefully my pictures come up.
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Today, I finished up the welds on the kick up portion of the frame.
I broke out the JD2 tubing bender that I haven't used since 2006, and had to get reacquainted with it. I made a 180 degree bend with my 1" die, then realized that the radius is much too small for the rear of the K100 frame. I dug deep and somehow managed to make one piece, first try, starting from 2 different ends with 4 bends total. I think it ended up being two 70 degree bends, and two 3 degree bends. I wanted to follow the rough shape of the rear of the tank.
I TIG welded the rear bar, checking and rechecking angles and position 4,782 times, it seems. I positioned the end of the bar so that it sits just a hair past the rear edge of the brake rotor.
The next challenge will be building the rear tail and seat pan, which should take a while. I don't have an English wheel but I have a few ideas.
Renthal ultra low bars and non ABS brake lines are in the mail. Thanks for looking!
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You can always tweak the angle by lifting the front of the tank.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks Martin, that's a good point.
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the tank never seems to look right once the fairing is removed. Nice job bobbing the frame.
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I'm considering building front fairing pieces from either fiberglass or steel because I kind of agree.
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I've been trying to figure out specific mounting points and such and how everything will tie together. I made new shock mounting tabs and TIG welded them in. I decided to fab a bolt-in lower panel for the tail section. I made this panel out of 18 gauge for rigidity.
Next, I'm trying to lay out the tail and seat area. I don't have an English wheel so I experimented with a leather bag full of pea gravel. It seems somewhat doable so I may try a leather and sand. Worse case, I may go get an Eastwood or harbor freight English wheel, or find an old gas tank.
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Not much progress, but I did buy a $250 harbor freight English wheel. The same beat up panel in the previous post ended up looking like this after 20 minutes on the English wheel. Off to learn a new skill...
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That's some impressive work there to most of us home garage types! Keep up the pics. What do you do for a real job?
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+10
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Thank you, TrueAce. Actually, anything I'm doing here can be easily done by anyone who uses Google. I'm just your average blue collar natural gas plant operator/electrician.
It's always been a dream of mine to have a fully equipped hot rod shop so I've been buying tools all my life, and stumbled upon the opportunity to buy a really nice shop in a real economically depressed area. The Lord's been good to me and I'm blessed to be able to build everything from boats and model T's to my first motorcycle.
There's a lot of skill here and some really creative bikes that you all have.
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Well I finally had a day to work in the shop. Bike tails are so personal and 'artsy' that it's hard to know if you're nailing it or not. There is some awfully nice work out there.
I built a buck from plywood, hopefully getting the shape right. Like I said, it's just so tough because there's no real formula.
I hit that dog gone piece of metal for 6 straight hours today. I did the math...over 100,000 times! I used a piece of thick leather I had over a bag of store bought play sand. I then cleaned it up on the English Wheel, tapped some more, repeat as necessary.
I made a home made dolly for light shaping. There's a lot more work to be done, like welding in an entire rear strip. Duh, I should have used my shrinker.
Here's what I came up with so far...
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Today I had a couple of hours so I spot welded mild steel rod all the way around the tail from the inside. I welded up the back radius slits over a half round wooden buck so the the rear would be perfectly round. I'll use USC All metal or lead in this rod to create a natural looking radius all the way around.
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Today I had a few minutes for some more design stage work. I sat on the bike and it felt just a bit cramped. I decided to take the angle of the tank and match the tail for aesthetics. I left 3/8" of a lip after the cut. I used a pair of glass cutting pliers (an absolute essential metal working tool in any shop) to gently work the edge as pictured.
Obviously, this changes the shape by widening it. I placed it in the shrinker and now we have a really nice professional looking lip. This beats a welded edge. Makes me wonder if I should've done that all the way around the bottom.
There's a couple of extra mock up pics for ideas.
Thanks for looking!
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Spent some more time on the English wheel and used a contour gauge to get the last of any irregularities worked out. I've seen some really non symmetrical work coming out of pro shops online, so hoping for the best.
Before moving on, I had to figure out mounting. I want everything to be modular and easy to remove. I used some existing hardware for the rear mount and hemmed the edges of the strap for rigidity.
Now I can continue metal work from tail to tank and start thinking about getting a custom seat made.
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Looking good. Well done
Nice to see the panel work done in metal not fibreglass - quite a different aesthetic.
Questions:
what tubing do you recommend for the frame? Impressive tube bender.
I assume you've annealed the aluminum (if it is) before the hammer work. Is there a particular gauge / thickness of sheet you are using?
I do like the derelict look seen on some cars - without the excessive hot-rodding: understated but quality.
there are a lot of cafe racers appearing but it's the ones that look a little aged are my preference.
But each to their own.
Keep the pics coming
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Thank you Vespa, I appreciate the compliments. The tail was made from 20 gauge mild steel, not aluminum. It is indeed amazing how much it can stretch without becoming brittle and thin. I made sure I did most of the metal work before welding so as not to harden the piece. I also used my TIG instead of my MIG due to the softer slower heat. I don't believe I work hardened it over the leather bag, although metal over metal most likely would have. Still learning shrinking and stretching.
My tubing choices were limited because I really couldn't get my hands on the exact size of the larger tubing. The wall thickness of the 1" tubing I had laying around was .095" I believe. It's not really load bearing and I did not remove the rear cross member. It was a decent slip fit.
Please give constructive comments on the following design...I'm still unsure myself...And I'm gonna start back up in the morning
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Since I didn't get any critiques, I decided to commit to my original design. I made the seat mounting surface the same angle as the valve cover on the engine, for aesthetics. There was a lot of shrinking, stretching, edge rolling with my Niagara edge roller, seamer use, dolly and hammer and a little English wheeling on the side panels.
I bought this bike because I've always wanted to do a bunch of metal work on a bike. I notice that a lot of bikes end their side panels abruptly before the tank, and I wanted to tackle that issue.
I made a front mount which clears the fuse box and cpu under the seat in case I want to keep those. I really want to build a bike that I can ride, so I haven't made up my mind on a lot of particulars.
Here are some pics. I butt welded and ground the left side panel into the tail. I'll blend the tail beaded edge to match the forward bead on the side panel. As it stands, yes, they are different.
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Well, this was supposed to be a winter project but it's kind of clipping along. I added another support and started on the fiberglass seat pan. I've rebuilt a couple of boats lately so I had a roll of 1708 biax and some Fiberlay polyester resin. Everything starts with a poster board pattern, for me anyways. I used 4 layers of 1708. If you are a fiberglass amateur, You really shouldn't exceed 4 layers in one lay up. 2 would be better. The cure puts out an immense amount of heat. I wanted a chemical bond on all layers so I did it all at once.
After it cooled down, I trimmed the shape on the band saw, placed back on the bike, used a file to follow the contour of the tail, then used the D/A sander for a final contour while in place. The whole thing takes about an hour or so.
I'll have to figure out how I want to attach the fiberglass seat pan so that it's removable. I do have some ideas. Glassing in some stainless clips on the back maybe. Will have to trailer the whole bike and find a seat upholsterer who can put up with me, lol.
Here are today's pics....
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Excellent work on your build. You got skills in many areas. Just a heads up though to make sure you can remove the tank with the seat and tail in place. That lip on the seat pan will prevent the tank from lifting unless you have a release mechanism for the pan or the tail.
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Thank you RBM, that means a lot. Especially coming from you. I can only hope that I can be in your good graces come "gauge time" :2thumbup:
I'll design the seat so that it is removable on it's own. After that, both the tank and the tail will be removable independently.
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Looking forward to watching this project progress - I think it's going to be great - really impressive work with the tail piece!
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Nice work, I wish I had all the tools that you have.
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Thanks Guys. I was actually very unhappy with the tail. It's been keeping me up lately, lol. It's just a hair too long and it's too flat on the upper leading edge.
Today I pounded on it for another 3 hours on the leather bag, and ran it through the English wheel. I'm a lot happier. It's such high stakes to get this far then start beating on it again. Hopefully I'll quit posting tail pics and get on with it. I checked on some Amish upholsterer today, so we'll see about getting the seat done.
Ordered some clip ons also, so it's either those or the Renthal ultra lows.
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You have the most professional build for a cafe K, equal to the K1 build by our amigo in Mexico City. The quick-release seat is very important I am still working on seat retention/release on my K scrambler. So many different ideas for K's, you have to do another, right?
Thanks for taking time to share pics of your work.
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That's awfully kind, TrueAce but I've really done nothing more than beat a piece of metal with a plastic hammer. The true story is that those dog gone RnineT commercials kept coming on over and over lately. I looked them up online and realized that at $15k, There had to be an affordable alternative(for me anyway). That's when I found out how customizable the K100 is. You're right, there are many build options for sure, but I will most likely only build this one! My Goldwing is what I ride everyday(below with my daughters)
I think that a 4 wheeler seat latch would work great on a scrambler. We had a DRR50 that had a neat latching system. Do you have a build thread?
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Not trying for an exact copy. Opinions? Fiberglass or steel metal? Like the attack angle?
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That's a fine GoldWing! And beautiful daughters.
I recognize the design influence of the RNineT, fixed up one for my son to ride. My K build doesn't hold a candle to your cafe! Keep building & posting!
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Whoa man! You know what you're problem is??? You are wayyyyyy to humble!!! Those bikes rock, ALL of them!!! Nice clean and simple K100! That rninet is kind of rocking the color scheme I was thinking. And not to get too sappy, but you seem to encourage people in every post. The world needs more people like yourself.
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I had a couple of hours today(working midnights). My shop is 12 miles away so I have to be pretty deliberate when I go.
I made the poster board template above for a custom belly pan. Here are a couple of pictures of my progress in 20 gauge sheet metal. I cut it out slightly larger to hem all of the edges. Making this in sheet metal does two things. I can use the metal version itself or use it as a plug for a fiberglass version.
I cut out the shape with a cheap air nibbler, marked and rolled the pan in my slip roll. Then I started hammering for exhaust clearance and used the English wheel to make a slight bulge in the button. This will be a pretty intensive piece, but I hope it comes out right...
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Still working the custom belly pan. Lots of metal shaping work to get it to start taking shape. I'll either use this one or use this as a plug to build a fiberglass one. I'll start building an attaching sub frame tomorrow and front section hopefully.
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That is truly awesome! If you can avoid the glass, you may have the first all-metal body K that we've seen. Clearly you aren't challenged enough, so how about a K-1 style streamlined fairing out of aluminum? You make metal work seem easy, amazing.
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Thanks, Ace. I've only started metal 'shaping' this year, so any real aluminum fairing would be beyond my skill level. Someday maybe. I still have a roadster to finish and it required lots of metal work. The hardest part is making something in its mirror image right to left. NOT :easy:
Lots of pics this time around. I made two custom brackets out of 14 gauge with captive nuts to hold the belly pan. This allows a 100% rubber/shock mounted system which works pretty slick. The third mount is a stock fairing mount flipped upside down. Belly pan touches nothing but the mounts.
I used my MIG on this. Much faster. Also English wheeled out a lot on imperfections and shaped her up a little bit better. Thanks Ace for the suggestion of leaving it in steel. I'm also not going for an exact copy. I want it to have a "racer prototype" feel. I can always add removable front inserts for variety. I thought of maybe a big, yellow, round, flush mounted fog lamp off to the side or a screened grill. Might just leave it solid?
Engines are cooled by radiators NOT airflow, so I see no problem with whatever I decide.
I've used a lot of body tools from my grandfather and even have a couple from my great grandfather.
For grinding I listed the following.
4" grinder with flapper disc for rough hogging(never a stone...too impacting to work)
air sander, 35ish grit
90 degree die grinder with roloc sanding then scruffy pad(name?)
D/A sander with 80 grit
On one of the pics I've annotated some of the angles that now kind of work together.
QUESTION, if anyone is out there...Where can I get weather proof, stick on heat shield for inside the belly pan? Kind of like what is under the tank?
pics...
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I'll be taking a little break with work and vacation.
Here are my exhaust plans. The stock collector is a cleverly engineered piece and I'd like to keep it along with the center stand...
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Excellent presentation! You have really done a nice job with your angle lines, and gives it a clean, flowing look, unlike the jigsaw puzzles of too many K-mods.That belly pan is just awesome........You could sell those! As for insulation......I have used some sticky back aluminum insulation for wrapping hot water heaters, tanks, HVAC,, usually found in the plumbing section..............but why does the belly pan need insulating, containing the engine heat to flow on the rider? Vibration control on the belly pan might be a concern, but I would worry about it. Those offset headlights on a number plate panel with screen or louvres seems to be a trend. You could make one easy.
You are doing a fabulous job.........You must be a third generation coach builder. How about Bugatti inspired K-Bike next!
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:clap: Congratulations you have a good eye and have managed to blend all the angles sympathetically. The K tank is hard to blend, but you have managed to pull it all together. Best one I have seen.
Congratulations Martin.
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Another look, another thought. The angle of your pic appears to accentuate the forks, making them proportionally seem a little tall. Consider dropping the triple tree an inch, if that doesn't mess up with handling. Also, have you looked at those 4-in-1 collectors made by BSK..........that might expand your exhaust choices. Another idea would to reduce the stock exhaust in length to a shortly, as some deal's on here last year......looked cool. Whatever exhaust you decide, use a strap or other support , not just hanging from the headers cause it will crack at the header pipes without it. What color are you thinking for the bike..........this bodywork needs the right color to show that unique work you've accomplished!
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This is really inspiring work, I can't wait for the next update!
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Than you for the compliments Martin, TrueAce, and HersheyB.
On the forks...The P.O. was a shorter fellow, so he installed a lowered Progressive spring on the back. I have some clip ons coming so the only problem I have lowering the front is the ground clearance of the belly pan. But the rear is indeed lower than stock. Man, I hope there's enough ground clearance. Maybe I can ratchet strap it down on a trailer to see where it will bottom out.
On the exhaust, I'll build the collector myself is needed(bragging rights :) ), but I'm not wanting to cover up the back wheel with the exhaust for the look I'm going for. I'm hoping to build or buy a short baffle for the shortest exhaust humanly possible. Basically, I want to make the collector the actual muffler. That's what I did on the Goldwing above. I have a 4" baffle packed with steel wool under the stainless tip.
Thanks for the source on the heat shield...I just want a little on the header side so that the paint stays intact on that side :)
Color...I was thinking of a light color to accentuate the lines. Probably an actual BMW Z3 or Z4 color. I painted the Goldwing this spring in the largest metallic flake silver made by Nason, in a BC/CC and it came out great. I was think about maybe an off white metallic color. Something bold but different at the same time, embracing the fact that it's a BMW. I could use opinions there. Or just clear coat all the sheet metal?
Thanks for the input.
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Wire brush stipple pattern and the clear coat, like the spirit of st. louis!
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The tank is aluminum so it won't rust, but the other parts will. I would go for the off-white shade, with tasteful.pinstripe or airbrush accents. But cut off those useless holes under the tank, Blacksmith!
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I literally just finished stripping my tank, I love the brush look from the paint removal disc I used on my grinder. Just made sure to keep moving in the same direction.
(http://i.imgur.com/I47YTRB.jpg)
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My tank was stripped with a chemical remover, and then mercilessly wet-dry sanded for 16+ hours MOL. Tried a clear coat but thought it too dull, so it just gets heavily polished. Can't leave steel bare unless you want that rusty patina.
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But the tank on a brick is aluminum? I just wiped it down with some wd-40 to keep the oxidation and fingerprints at bay. Plus wd-40 smells good.
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Put a magnet to it and watch.
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Ace either you've been into the Moonshine again or you have a very very rare steel tank on your bike. :dunno
Regards Martin.
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Oh,no, I meant that my tank is aluminium...........magnets won't stick!
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You, sir, have a proper eye for lines and shapes. I am very much appreciating your work right now. :euro
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JC - nice builds on both the Honda and K100! I'm looking forward to your exhaust build. I'd like to replace the stock exhaust on my k100RS - I was thinking of using the BSK collector but am interested in what your approach will be. BTW - what type of exhaust is on the bike, as shown in the earlier posts?
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Thank you frankenwing and robp for the compliments.
I've got a lot of other irons in the fire right now trying to rent out properties and moving stuff around. I've taken a short break until maybe next month. Got a real run around about getting a seat made. I may actually do it myself because it seems like people just don't honor their word or take pride in their craft these days. Sorry for the negativity. I'd like to have a finished seat before starting on the body work this winter.
Rob I want the stock exhaust collector to contain the baffle wrapped in packing if possible. I'm partial to having the rear wheels exposed on bikes. Especially since I'd like to showcase the single sided shock design .
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Got my seat back today, could not be happier!!!
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Sandblasted my rims recently and ordered an Acewell 2853. Had a couple of hours today to fab up an aluminum bezel which will be black, and welded in some stainless "speed" grille. Hope it looks cool. Haven't had much time for the bike lately.
On a side note, I had another project that needed some plastic molded panels. Someone turned me on to Kydex. If you Google Kydex, you can make some pretty trick panels out of it. Might utilize it on the "K".
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That is some really nice fabrication you are doing. It's hard for me to get excited over most custom jobs, but yours definitely has my interest. The craftsmanship is excellent.
One caution, your belly pan looks like it is blocking a lot of the airflow over the oil pan and the pumps. When you get the bike running you might want to keep a close eye on your oil temperature. I would also be very careful to run a high temperature synthetic oil to avoid oil damage due to high heat.
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Thank you very much for the compliments.
I also thank you for the input on the airflow. I will definitely monitor the oil temperature at your suggestion. I'm assuming that the radiator should do it all for the most part, but maybe not. Those inlets total 16.5 inches so I'm hoping that most of the heat will draft out the back while riding.
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Hopefully everything is fine
Maybe some sort of air ram or fan if not (version 2?)
Very impressed with the fabrication. An example to the rest of us.
Am interested in a single cafe style seat that can be easily modified to become a two seater - feel a little selfish if my wife (or kids) can't come along for a ride when they want to. Something where the back is easily unscrewed to remove the tail section by removing 4 screws under the seat.
Well done
Guy
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Awesome Fabrication of the Belly Pan jc55. :clap:
I'm new to bricks and riding and i was wondering to myself how hard it would be to do one?
i was thinking of integrating some engine guards aside from the pan itself... since i expect to be falling down a lot before i figure that out...
soemday...
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since i expect to be falling down a lot before i figure that out...soemday...
If you fulfill that expectation, you'll have neither the money nor the mobility to continue riding, bmwpyro.
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I agree with Laitch. Falling down shouldn't be an option when you have put a lot of work into a bike. Then again if I were truthful, I would admit that I've already knocked the bike off of the stand with no tires and rims on it... wasn't pretty. Luckily, someone walked into my shop right then and helped me.
I still have my crash bars if anyone needs them.
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If you fulfill that expectation, you'll have neither the money nor the mobility to continue riding, bmwpyro.
i am actively working to prevent that possibility, but the probability is still there. :eek: just finished MSF... at least i didnt fall :yes
some low profile integrated guards would hopefully lower the cost...
that pan is certainly beautifully crafted. i can look at it the all day hoping i can do it someday.
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I just took my motorcycle safety course this past summer. I'd rather build than ride I'm finding. :mbird
Well, thank you. If I get a picture in my head, I can't afford, or find someone to make that picture come to life, you learn what you need to learn to make your vision come to life.
If you pick up some books and watch some custom shows, you'll start picking up some of the tricks. For instance, a nice set of used eBay glass breaking pliers is one of the most frequently used metal shaping tools I have.
An old friend taught me to build everything in poster board first. When I first started tinkering with metal, I'd scab a bunch of pieces together to make shapes. That's how I got better at making my welds "disappear". Then I noticed that the pros made complicated panels from a single piece. That's the real challenge. If you can make it out of poster board, you can make it out of metal.
I picked up a 27 Ford roadster this year and did a bunch of metal work to get the metal body back to straight and solid. Having done a few cars, I've noticed that building motorcycles are about 1/10th of the work and cost, and the sky is the limit. Motor bikes are a lot more fun than sanding on a car for a few hundred hours!!! Lol.
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If you pick up some books and watch some custom shows, you'll start picking up some of the tricks. For instance, a nice set of used eBay glass breaking pliers is one of the most frequently used metal shaping tools I have.
When I was in the sheet metal trade, a similar tool was called flanging pliers. They come in varying widths.
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Absolutely, Laitch. Got a set of those seamers as well.
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I just took my motorcycle safety course this past summer. I'd rather build than ride I'm finding. :mbird
i kinda know what you mean.
Well, thank you. If I get a picture in my head, I can't afford, or find someone to make that picture come to life, you learn what you need to learn to make your vision come to life.
If you pick up some books and watch some custom shows, you'll start picking up some of the tricks. For instance, a nice set of used eBay glass breaking pliers is one of the most frequently used metal shaping tools I have.
An old friend taught me to build everything in poster board first. When I first started tinkering with metal, I'd scab a bunch of pieces together to make shapes. That's how I got better at making my welds "disappear". Then I noticed that the pros made complicated panels from a single piece. That's the real challenge. If you can make it out of poster board, you can make it out of metal.
I picked up a 27 Ford roadster this year and did a bunch of metal work to get the metal body back to straight and solid. Having done a few cars, I've noticed that building motorcycles are about 1/10th of the work and cost, and the sky is the limit. Motor bikes are a lot more fun than sanding on a car for a few hundred hours!!! Lol.
Really Nice. :2thumbup: i dont have much in time nor opportunity but i'm working my way towards building things myself.
Thank You for the tips. poster boarding will be quite useful.
i have acquired some tools and books but i realized that without a garage, i cant really do much. so thats the build i need to do first.
i have read many vw restoration threads and i understand what you mean by sanding... not looking forward to it myself :yes
but rebuilding a bike first could be a good step for me.
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Hopefully everything is fine
Maybe some sort of air ram or fan if not (version 2?)
Very impressed with the fabrication. An example to the rest of us.
Am interested in a single cafe style seat that can be easily modified to become a two seater - feel a little selfish if my wife (or kids) can't come along for a ride when they want to. Something where the back is easily unscrewed to remove the tail section by removing 4 screws under the seat.
Well done
Guy
Take look at this build from Shaka Garage. http://thebikeshed.cc/2015/08/31/shaka-garage-silver-gills/ (http://thebikeshed.cc/2015/08/31/shaka-garage-silver-gills/) They were able to fabricate a cowl that can be removed when a second passenger would like a ride. Definitely a good looking bike and interesting exhaust which I was wanting for my build but no luck since it'd be a bit difficult fabricating something to still keep some sort of back pressure.
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Nice bike pablooo. Thanks for posting it.
Okay, tonight I cut the muffler apart along the weld. So excited!!!
I want to start by saying that the factory K collector is luscious. What a well engineered and beautiful piece of art. I was pleasantly surprised to find a solid baffle welded in place. I will wrap that baffle in exhaust mat and add a mandrel bent 90 degree custom tip.
I was going to weld a turbo v band clamp for a removable tip, but the collector end is square. I need to do some math and figure out what 13" in circumference equals in pipe diameter to make a round tip "square".
What do you guys think? Giving up the center stand was not an option.
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Spokeless wheels - now THATS a design statement!
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Spokeless wheels - now THATS a design statement!
Modifications to the alternator and wheel result a powerful magnetic centering force providing cushiony ride for the vertebrae-impaired.
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Yup, linear motors with earth magnets. Each tire weighs 1800 lbs!
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assuming some magnetic leakage,
each 100mi should net you an average 1kg of metal debris from the road that you can sell to the local recycler and bike would pay for a tire change each over time.
Genius!
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Good one, bmwpyro!
Went to Summit Racing and got a 4" stainless, mandrel bent 90. It's 16 gauge. Got some muffler packing and stainless ties. Worked the mating surface square which took quite a bit of work. Man, that stainless steel has some serious memory. Tacked it temporarily, and used a sander on it for photos. May polish, may ceramic coat it. I don't know.
Going for wicked nasty race look..
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Nice! Good work with the muffler.
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Thanks Boxermann, gotta let you V-twin types know we're there, sitting next to you at the light :wave: :2thumbup:
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I media blasted my wheels (which took hours) then shot them in a Nason epoxy primer, then a Nason single stage gloss black with hardener over that.
I decided not to block sand or remove the casting lines since I'm not detailing the engine. I was really nervous about painting these complicated wheels but I always pray before I start and I kept the wheels moving while shooting so they came out great.
I'll tape the wheels before mounting the tires.
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The paint had sagged on the rims in places by the next day. I had put the black on too heavy. Fortunately, I did not run the epoxy, so I color sanded the black and reshot them. This was a new learning curve for me since I usually get it right and refuse to use rattle cans on anything. Wet sanding with 320 grit and reshooting did the trick.
Reinstalled the tires and new valve stems myself with lots of tape protecting the rim. (painters tape twice, then duct tape over that) Taped up the tire tools and used c-clamps to mount the tires pretty easily. (I tried the zip tie method but that was laughable). I managed to put a little nick in the paint but I'll just touch it up. I learned a lot for next time.
I also decided that now was a good time for doing the splines...yawn. Took about an hour to pull everything off and all of the splines looked great. This was a meticulously dealer maintained bike, supposedly, but it WAS time to do them.
For documentation purposes I'm adding all of the pics. There was a piece of snap ring near the final drive when I removed it. I'll look into that before reassembly.
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I greased all of the splines with Honda Moly 77 after cleaning up the tranny and final drive.
Today I painted the frame with Nason 2k single stage with a flattener. Well, so far, its not flattening. Might end up with gloss black.
I installed the exhaust matting and welded up the exhaust.
Oh, if anyone wonders if you can weld two pieces of stainless together with an aluminum rod, the answer is yes. Yes you can. Ground out the spot weld and re TIG welded with stainless...Duh!!!
Polished up the exhaust. I know it might be a little radical for some, but with the color I picked out, it should be absurd. I may add a screen in the tip.
I have 2 or 3 more tricks up my sleeve so we'll see how those go. Rearsets came in today so I will be building my own linkage and mounting plates.
Now I can start replacing all of the hoses, clean as I go, and hopefully start her up before the acewell and RBM's awesome speed sensor/neutral board. It hasn't ran in 6 years.
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Shiny! Exhaust looks great.
Looking forward to see how you solve the mounting plates and linkage for the rear sets. I'm planning to do the same thing.
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I'm putting the bike back together and wet sanded the too glossy frame repaint with ultrafine scotchbrite and it came out perfect.
Here's how the rearsets went today...
I ordered indexable rearsets from Dime City Cycles for $150. They are TOP NOTCH. Unbelievable machine work and attention to detail.
3 heim/spherical rod ends (1/4-28) $9 each from NAPA (1/4" steel rod as well)
$12 worth of 1/2" aluminum, 6" wide
The first thing I did was machine down and thread the stock master cylinder rod to 1/4 -28 threads and bought jam nuts. This isn't an easy task. I have lathe and mill access but did everything by hand.
With poster board templates that were pleasing to my eye anyways, I settled on a design.
Cut out the brackets, matched/shaped them to be exact twins, found a good rearset position, drilled for that, champhered all holes, tapped the rearset tab for 1/4-20 as a secondary safety, mounted the stock master cylinder with spacers I made, and most importantly I machined a stop block. This stop block is absolutely imperative to not pull the push rod out of the master cylinder and get yourself killed.
I didn't want my master pointing up in the air so I went with this layout. I need to swap out all of the fasteners for nylock, stainless, etc. and polish everything.
The shifter side is almost done and I'll used the stock muffler mount and weld it to my custom exhaust, then bolt to bracket. I may mill recesses for my bolts but kind of don't want to lose thickness of the brackets.
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After about 5 hours of hand sanding, applying 3 coats of clear to the rear set brackets.
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Sub'd. Awesome project, so far!
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Thanks MarauderS!
Well, love 'em or hate 'em. Functioning rearsets for $200 total. Front and rear abs to non abs conversion done and bled.
Rear fill tubing will be battened down before launch. Mounting the m/c this way does create a possible issue in that that supply tube dorks itself towards the tight heel.
Wasn't planning on a rear brake light switch but if I want one later, I can add one later. Especially when I upgrade to stainless lines. Thanks for looking.
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That's awesome work! They look great and you certainly saved a bunch of $. Really looking forward to seeing this bike when it's done:)
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Thanks man. If it looks half as good as yours, I'll be happy.
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Today I cleaned up the cruddy sender and made up a new wiring harness for the in tank fuel pump. In the process I'll be replacing the sender o-ring and leak checking.
Wanted to check bike post ABS harness delete
I ALWAYS label everything I disconnect. Apparently when I removed the starter, from the time I disconnected it until I grabbed the marker and tape, I labeled the battery positive terminal as, 'starter'. So after troubleshooting no power to ignition switch and coil of starter relay...I figured it out...doh!
Used a syringe to put fuel to the throttle body vacuum ports, and she fired right up and ran. Yay!
I need to test the fuel injectors using the fuel pump, then it's paint, body and custom wiring mods.
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Yesterday I used RBM'S procedure to flip the fuel sender board and set it for 0-100 ohms.
Also bench tested and cleaned the injectors. After starting the bike on the new fuel pump.
The tail had a little 'hook' to it so I cut 1/2" off the back and re streamlined it. (Nerve wracking this late in the game)
I fabbed up a bolt on tail light and removable licence plate bracket. I really want to build a 'hugger' rear fender and mount the plate in front of the rear tire, but I'm not gonna complicate my life right now.
Made an articulating aluminum bracket for the acewell so that I can move it around.
Cut the fender down and modified it to mount lower over the front fender.
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Mixing custom colors today...blah!!!
IU
I wanted Jeep 'anvil' blue gray but bike of the year is using that. :falldown: don't want a safe color like black, white, silver, bare metal, etc.
I considered Subaru desert khaki, Chrysler's anvil, Toyota's concrete, but settled on 2013 dodge dart Laguna blue.
Well, that was a mistake. So here's 3 custom sprayouts using Laguna blue and a metallic secret blend. The second pic is ultra bold. The first pic on the tank is the one I'm leaning towards. It's more of a BMW Z3 style of blue gray metallic color.
Plus then no one can copy the color.
Opinions please!!!
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I like the second pic - but I'm sure they would all look good - tough decisions!
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Opinions please!!!
Thanks for asking. :giggles
The first panel—a color I'd call What You Lookin At Grey—has a certain five o'clock shadowness and penitentiary hue bound to create a stir among night-dwellers. The second—East Wing Blue—strikes me as hospital recovery room decor—not a particularly desirable association. The last I'd call Long View Arctic—the view from the cockpit before being catapulted from the deck of USS Carl Vinson over the Bering Sea. I like the chill.
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I like the color in the first one. I think the grayer blue would look sweet on your bike
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Lol, Laitch. Spent quite a bit of time on carriers myself.
I really appreciate the opinions. I usually take the easy way out and this isn't easy for me.
Yes, the last one is super bold, almost something you'd see on a Subaru. I like it but it's a big commitment and I don't know if I have the guts.
The first one is a little classier. It will make the bike look more expensive and tasteful.
Thanks again! :2thumbup:
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Yes, the last one is super bold, almost something you'd see on a Subaru.
First time I've seen the words bold and Subaru together. Old? Sure, especially up here where every other person has one, or parts of one. :hehehe
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Have you ever seen a Subaru owner upset? It's like George Mcfly meets Bernie Sanders...very bold!!! :hehehe
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Have you ever seen a Subaru owner upset?
I've got my binoculars and that's now on my Life List right after I spot a Ruffled Tightarse.
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Hahaha
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I know there's usually a big mystery behind paint and body generally, so I'll be documenting that. There are many ways of doing it, of course, but projects seem to disappear from the forum only to reappear completely painted and finished.
Panels must be clean! Here are some products I use below.
Filling holes in plastic and fiberglass, I drill out the hole one size to remove any paint, clean, then mix epoxy with SM fairing compound. The compound makes it thick and easy to sand. 24 hours to cure, and tape or plastic over holes to eliminate sag. I've had the best luck with this method in the past.
As much as I would like to do perfect metal work, I can't. I use USC All Metal for roughing in gaps, and welds. It's a catalyzed aluminum filler. Light media blast, then applied and sanded.
After roughing in the body work, D/A sand with 80 grit, I cleaned, then everything gets a coat of epoxy primer. All panels must acclimate, along with the paint to follow the tech sheet. You can't bring a 50 degree panel into a 75 degree room and start painting. I use a temperature gun to make sure everything is up to temp.
Filler first or second is a big argument, but I want my metal sealed first.
Everything will get a complete skim coat of body filler next.
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Thank you!
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At the 24 hour or so mark, I used 150 grit to roughen up the epoxy primer. If I top coated it yesterday with high build primer in the recoat window, I wouldn't have had to do that. It's still debatable at 24 hours, but it gives it more 'bite'.
Fixed a couple of small imperfections on the tank and front fender, cleaned, tack clothed, then I shot 4 coats of high build primer. I will start the block sanding process later.
The tail and belly pan get an entire skim coat of filler after roughing up the epoxy primer with 150 grit. I used 80 grit initially on the filler, then was able to do most in 150 grit.
A little trick I learned is to start sanding before it has fully cured. It makes knocking it down so much faster.
The tail is 'roughed in' again. There is a canister of dry guide coat there on the belly pan. It's basically a black powder for guide coating low spots. Sooooooo much better than spray can guide coat imo.
I also found a project box and drilled for a grommet to enclose the neutral indicator board.
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Still at it. 320 grit blocking on the fender, and scotchbrite to blend the edges.
Started with 220 grit on the tank.
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Still in the land of block sanding. I forgot how much work this is.
Not doing this everyday requires extra steps that a pro would skip.
- several applications of filler and sanding with 150 grit on tail and belly pan
- epoxy primer again on tail, light blocking with 220 grit, 4 coats of high build primer on tail and belly pan, light glazing where needed, block sand with 320 grit, 4 more coats, 320 again, two more coats and final sanding before shooting.
Getting close, a couple of small spot glaze areas, then hopefully shoot color Tuesday. Looking for everything to flow, the flares on the tail pan are just too much work to get perfect.
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Jc55,
Build is looking really good, I don't know how you got the seat cowel looking soooo good, wish I had skills like that to complete the most daunting part of my project!
What are your plans for your brake light switch on your reassess? I was thinking about something similar but didn't know what to do with that.
Thanks! Looks fantastic!
-Ben
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Thank you, Ben. The seat/tail is made out of 3 pieces...I have no idea how it turned out like it did either, lol.
I did some reading and decided to skip the rear brake light switch.
1) I can add a hydraulic line switch later
2) the front brake switch alone will suffice, I live in a super rural area
3) no rear brake light means I can scrub speed without police attention
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Well, it's like a bad shot at the doctor...it's over phew! After final detailing of imperfections, shot high build one last time, sanded with 400 dry, then 600 grit wet.
Shot the Nason base coat that I concocted then had the paint store duplicate it. They tried to scan and find a color in the book, but I insisted they mix mine so this one IS mine.
3 coats and a mist due to the high metallic, then 4 coats of clear. There's a lot more blue than the pictures can reveal. Next to black, it really pops.
It came out great. I never cut and buffed before. I have everything to do it, I'm just afraid of screwing it up.
I left the tank tabs on there purposely. I know there are varying opinions, but I'm going for a factory prototype look. That may seem strange but I see it in my warped mind. The tabs will allow me to add more bodywork later if I want also.
Thanks for looking, on to wiring which is more of my specialty.
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On to the wiring. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive to glue the tail light to the bracket and it's still curing. Everything is completely modular and the wiring runs through o-rings and is protected by OEM style cloth tape.
I used a 6 pin weather pack connector for the rear harness. I'm not getting brake and turn signal voltage so I think I need to investigate the bulb monitor module. I cut 3 wires when I eliminated the ABS system.
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As a teaser, I'm including one pic of the painted tail pan on the bike. All I can say is that it is just wicked insane. I am so stoked that it's keeping me up at night.
I've learned a few "nice to know" items on this wiring system:
1) The load shed system seems to affect circuits...well, basically all of them!
2) Fuse 1 power (Green/black wire) is switched by the kill switch
3) All imported LED tail lights are junk
I had a turn signal perfect storm. Right handle bar switch works, but right rear turn signal light doesn't light. Left handle bar switch didn't work, left rear turn signal light worked. That took a few minutes :dunno2: Ordered more tail light strips.
I wired up the Acewell 2853 and the TGPI 4.0 board to the green/black wiring on F1 and they work great! Spin the wheel, speedo works. Clutch in to crank, and neutral light on to crank work great.
Can't get enough RPM to test the MSD 8918 install to interface with the Acewell, but did see it jump once. May add fuel to the throttle body vacuum ports with a syringe to get it to fire for testing. Still open to using the yellow acewell tach wire connected to pin 16 of the gauge cluster which runs to the RPM wire from the coil - with a resistor in series, opinions welcomed.
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Tail pan looks awesome! Looking forward to see the tank mounted.
Thanks for the wiring info. Will return here when I get there with mine.
Have you checked out TruFLEX led strips? I've read some good reviews about them.
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Thank you for the link!!! I found one that is a close spec for $60. If I have another issue with the ones I have coming, I'll order one. Cheap flexible LED strips dislike two things. Any pressure applied to them, and too much flex. I put blue LED's all over the inside of my boat and I had to be super delicate with them.
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Thank you for the link!!! I found one that is a close spec for $60. If I have another issue with the ones I have coming, I'll order one. Cheap flexible LED strips dislike two things. Any pressure applied to them, and too much flex. I put blue LED's all over the inside of my boat and I had to be super delicate with them.
For what its worth, my Radiantz LED strip that I bought from Cognito Moto works great and was straightforward to wire up.
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+1 to what Mike just said. The build quality of the Radiantz is a lot better than the Chinese one I originally got. Definitely worth the money.
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It doesn't look like Radiantz has integrated turn signals, which I need 😞
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It doesn't look like Radiantz has integrated turn signals, which I need 😞
Is this what you're looking for? http://www.radiantz.com/Turns-and-Brake-Z-Flex-strips-p/470x-xxxx.htm
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It doesn't look like Radiantz has integrated turn signals, which I need 😞
It does have integrated turn signals, that's what I have on my bike.
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Is this what you're looking for? http://www.radiantz.com/Turns-and-Brake-Z-Flex-strips-p/470x-xxxx.htm (http://www.radiantz.com/Turns-and-Brake-Z-Flex-strips-p/470x-xxxx.htm)
Thank you for the link, and thanks Mike. I just ordered one.
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I ordered a different one from Dime City but I don't think its super quality (the wire gauge was annoyingly tiny) but it has worked no problem so far is only $35 if anyone else needs one
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Whoops forgot the link: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/flexible-led-integrated-tail-light-indicators.html
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Thanks for the link Markus.
I'm starting to get into, 'just throw it together' mode. Running out of steam and I don't want to spend a whole lot of time on details I can upgrade later.
I made a bunch of rubber washers to start mounting items like the fender, gauges, etc. I wish the dash looked a little more world class like some of the builds on here but maybe next winter.
Added an incandescent generator and water temp light, the original LT water temp gauge, and lowered the fender to about 20mm off the tire.
Mounted the turn signals on the radiator. I need the new tail light, a radiator reservoir, and a place to mount the ignition switch.
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Looks like it's all coming together - keep up the great work!
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In the immortal words of Nina Hagen, "future is now." You've been doing a great job, don't get too discouraged now! Everything looks great. Thoughts on a little cowling in front of the gauges?
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Thank you Hershey and Markus. You're right Hersheyb, the future is now. Thanks for the push! I don't think I'll go with a cowl for now, but I did lay the gauges down to flow a little better. I don't like the two red nipples staring up at me...but I'm do close!!!
I also relocated the ignition switch using the original rubber crash pad and mounted the tank. I used 3m 5200 marine caulk on the switch mounting. I had a power inverter glued to a fiberglass console and even using heat I destroyed the case on the inverter prying it off the fiberglass. It's great stuff when it cures.
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The ignition mount looks great! The dash/gauge mounting is a challenge on these bikes but I think it looks pretty good so far. Keep it up:)
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Thanks man! Installing the battery and computer in the tail today. That lithium battery blows my mind!
I finally captured this ever changing paint in its darkest hue on camera. Sometimes it's light blue, sometimes silver but this is my favorite...
Also installing stone guard on areas that are susceptible to possible rubbing and chaffing...on the bike, that is.
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Here's a video of the exhaust. My speed sensor is jumping around, exhaust has oil in it, and choke is on, but it sounds just as I'd hoped. Quiet, yet throaty.
https://youtu.be/YxdENrwU7cQ
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Sounds great! Thanks for the video.
Glad to hear the battery works!
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Just a couple of loose ends but pretty much done.
New 15 weight fork oil, and an extra 12cc per tube. I reinstalled the factory rear spring, raised the forks back up, and have 5" of clearance at the belly pan.
Added some foil to the hot side of the belly pan to protect the paint.
Wired in the new Radiantz tail light and mounted the tail pan. Everything is modular with rubber isolation, nylon washers, stone guard, etc.
Under the seat is completely vacant. I want to have a removable bag made to fill that entire area along with a tank bag, and a tail bag with custom mounts for light touring.
Going for a factory racer look without it being over done. I'm looking to stay away from the cafe racer stigma and wanted the bike to embrace being a BMW.
My dad has built a couple of replicas of the Gottlieb Daimler first wooden motorcycle, one of which is in a museum and went on the centennial ride in Anaheim in 1985. 105 years of German engineering difference, I hope to get a photo side by side.
I have a couple of old buildings downtown including a storefront, so I'm going to have my wife photograph the bike, then I'll be riding the wheels off of it, commuting to work and the 12 miles to my shop. I think I'm really gonna love this bike!
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Wow it looks great! Really like the colour as well. Keep up posted as you finish up the last details:)
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Looks awesome! Love the paint job!
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Looks awesome! Nice work! You've inspired me to get mine done and on the road
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Thanks guys. I took it out today for literally 3 minutes. People were slowing down, pointing, and checking it out. this is Harley country so I have to learn to stop waving now, lol.
The exhaust note is ON POINT! Changed the circumference on the acewell 2853 to 2090mm and the p001 to p006 pulses and the speedo was steady, the tach was steady. I gave it gas and she's quick!!! What a change from a naked '77 Goldwing!
I keep looking for the foot pegs instead of the rearsets, and I'm still a little wobbly with the clip ons.
The town I have my shop in is a little run down. I parked it into my storefront youth center to get a photo session.
I also painted my tank tabs black using 3M fine line tape and some trim paint. They are there but invisible
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It looks fantastic- what can I say except if BMW had planned to make a cafe version of the brick I am sure that is what it would look like. Great job
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Thanks buddy. I went to the BMW dealership the other day and they have the new R 9 T racer version coming out. I almost needed a moment alone :yow It's good to see the OEMs taking the custom scene seriously.
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Which lithium battery did you get? how did it work?
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I got the Shorai.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Shorai-LFX14L2-BS12-Lithium-Iron-Extreme-Rate-Battery-14AH-12V-EQ-quot-L-quot-2-/351934738544?txnId=873392173022
It's so tiny that it fit in the tail with the computer. Cranks great and seems to have plenty of power when I was purging the fuel system to start the bike.
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JC55, your bike looks great!
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Thanks Mike. That means a lot coming from you. I was studying your build and some of the bikeExif articles and am really impressed. You've got quite a few performance mods along with your bike looking great. I like the stance and the shorter rear cowl in particular. Well done!
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Thanks!
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What sort of wheels and sizes are you running? How are you liking them?
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I'm not sure pablooo. Stock I guess. 130/90/17 on the back and a smaller 19" on the front I think. It still has the touring tires from the previous owner.
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Just wanted to take some final pics before it's trashed out by riding it. Can't wait for the snow to stop.
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Fantastic job! Looks great.
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Wow - it really looks fantastic!! Great work and happy to see you're getting to enjoy riding it. Seriously beautiful bike:)
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It looks awesome! Great work!
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How is the battery working out for you?
I put mine in the Harley so I have to buy a new one for the beemer. I'm just a little unsure if I should buy the same or go for a bigger size.
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I only rode the bike twice but have cranked and cranked for various reasons of testing systems or having the key on and it seem to be great. I left it for a week and it was still at 13.2 volts.
My Goldwing by design has literally no cranking reserve. The batteries are small and the charging systems are weak.
with the beemers fuel injection it should be fine.
As an update, I'm trying to get into a metal shaping class in Massachusetts next month. I hope to fabricate a front race fairing like the new R9T
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jc55, you inspired me to ditch my much larger Shorai battery for the same one you have. I'm making a new tray/plate for it today, but looking forward to a more hidden battery setup than what I have now and dropping a tad bit more weight from the bike. I'm relieved to hear that it has enough juice to fire up the bike and crank it over several times if need be.
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I think it was Boxermann that kicked off the whole mini Shorai battery craze :2thumbup: I hope it works out
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JC55
This link might be useful for a fairing shape. I apologize that it is only the cover of the mag, but if you track it down, the fairing was arguably the strongest element on the bike. I had the mag but gave away.
https://image.issuu.com/160715001002-577f58e7ee1fa67012d28f3b4f73fa17/jpg/page_1.jpg
There are of course some beautiful bikes, but there is also the stench of 20-something hipsters parting with a stack of cash without getting their hands dirty ... the lifestyle thingy. Not enought technical info in the mag for me.
Think I'm sounding old, ugly and jealous (and unhip)
G
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Wire forming the front fairing ...
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Front fairing fabricated from two pieces on an English wheel...
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That looks awesome! Nice job
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Excellent progress and standard of work - an inspiration to the rest of us.
That's one hell of a shed - major jealousy here (single car garage at saturation point)
Looking forward to the end result
Best regards
Guy
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Actually, this is a 4 day metal forming class in Massachusetts.
Thanks for the compliments!
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That was a missed opportunity - if you had told us that it WAS your shed, forlorn tones of inadequacy would have rippled across this forum for some time.
Fairing looks good. If I get the magazine back from my brother-in-law, I will post the pics for others' reference.
G
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Lol. My own shop is in all of the build pics and it's still awesome lol
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Fairing looks awesome. That's some serious craftsmanship!
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Just a quick update. The bike has been holding up great. She's been getting a lot of ridiculous attention, and is a blast to ride. Parts of the digits on the Acewell 2853 are starting to disappear, had to sort out the rear set linkage geometry, muffler packing is long gone, but the paint and mechanicals are holding up wonderfully.
A small confession. I wanted an airhead originally. Due to the rising prices, that just wasn't possible. So I grabbed what I knew would be the next classic while the prices were down(K100). I'm so grateful for that actually, because I would've missed out on the fact that the K-series is such a superior bike in everyway(at least to me). :riding: (I'm also a fan of motorcycles with unique engines).
At any rate, I found an '81 r100 for $1400. She runs good and has great compression. This one was driven regularly but stored outside for 10 years and never washed...ever. I've never seen anything so oily!
She's my next project. I power washed, put in some new fuel, strapped a battery to the back and took her for a ride around town. Lol, a very geriatric ride imo, but I couldn't stop smiling. I hope to get into the more intricate restoration aspects such as re-plating harware and complete disassembly. Here she is, and off to the land of airheads with myself...
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I'd like to see what you'll eventually do with the Airhead. I've always loved and wanted one. Too expensive. Share some pics every now and then.
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Thanks, they are expensive. A scrambler just sold on eBay for $8500!