MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: DJC on June 18, 2016, 06:59:13 PM
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Hello fellow brick heads.
I've been lurking here for a while, thought I'd post some progress photos and notes on my build to give back to the community.
I'm a serial project guy, I've always got something on the go. First one was a GSX 250 Cafe Build.
But I yearned for more.
I needed a brick in my life.
So, I bought my K100 a few months ago. Here she is
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iAA-rZ52JcHqM4XhAfR3XSpRrJMDT_BClsZjCsnjl4eaU2_4uElcvcl1HXTvMro3pvD1fHbcJVAIkEZPXp1FH81ng-kaqXTQZzPm_dveK2BWHg0wwOC8rbpfvC8clTYyGa3737M3UJG4LkYp5W_Ukb2_3b8JnPWirI9tPtV9hKeQOOsp2W9kWPznem23Kqw2c9x1Mf_A9PnDO7YfM397_r7BDTaUEkw1hYQvVw1I-ipqjqdTl907ZNk1KW_KmdpFWPU2SiHBf4yPjmUFo0cSQOvFi2oUKemRE0yZmCu7aqUk3BvCsEUuoZywrXJJ3vW7Y7G6PJHycnwD2Xs627yK6NxSpfeZWrON8XuurksmEuGCOwghV2qV2WK9-oiZ8xbj3VS_Bpci9ZQ-MF9biBYQD2R8euNh--2fWNcIpaK35ouiyWI8F2Hg2gReDY3oy43q641wJVlUPGJVe0S_59fcDmQQb4c4UZkKknHdCQTUwQSvftrQADVbS7R4Mw-aG29eeft7A5GPEGEyLRJ4kaahxe2AiB8nmDYCXM8cKETZbg74sfm7X-OmeBrDWi3pI94gjTBGVPP7qXyg_wiucPBnzZ7sXsFTpUgv=w960-h720-no)
And i promptly started to disassemble it with little to no idea of what the hell I was doing.
Here she is all cleaned up and unnecessary items removed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dbH1iIPH9TeAqkP5i8xJXM1UFyqETNid89hZ7GFoStMDzmGOyLbq3h2wbrlfKPi_9zzXKICTq5H6d1NAZge_GbnxXE1RuI7r_Y1zDsMuAdJYLrMQKSQ1-mYwsUTFZbRksash05NH03TODRNWij7fT2anc3Kqd7uahn3bN5-7y1p-Gb40oWlTbCpv4QyRomtClyfQ0BXjYEIFTH2KYCl7fPaMBeekQ5CQYxAMF6RQH75psZmoSpuggOEb3J4UK-6XNgA6EiseAiuq2ZNA5Mkde2JfsPnHCSavgxv3nRMUybd5Ba2KJpkSDrMDMSldMSVa4goDk7USO_zuw2nKOP6hQvN21k71eGtxUGPes8NLK3I6bgpq4VwzpsWceYd2UvOqqJZWKsJlnLtK01HXVx3Qj7Pr5ssWK8A0C0wN1vCLIrO2XWkU8sDz1Qx7KSp6rn9dH6iw0STjx3hMPnevgQNXj7k9LPmSSMtkvywT-aJb3zR2BDLmnu5HOq1FHl_Riln7EuBj29QYMN9-X_ldLIFIoOUL-If-mmt1ueF_FUdqEW8Ph_DJnzrcP9M_gQkIlFehGYOP8ufSG0DB1QajnN_svhNwNBHa-o18=w1625-h914-no)
The plan is to go for the street tracker/scrambler style. Something i can use in the post apocalyptic world, so want to be able to easily add some form of custom luggage racks/tragkorbs.
The plan:
Shorten tail loop and go for custom seat.
New head light/tail light and indicators. All LED units.
New levers/hand controls.
New handle bars
New rear suspension (if $$ allows it)
Motogadget M-unit with M Button for all the controls and switching (Has anyone used this before?? I may need some assistance)
New rearsets
New Mirrors
New Speedo - went with the Acewell 4353ab
Paint wheels
Paint misc parts
Clean EVERYTHING.
Clean EVERYTHING AGAIN.
This here is the current progress.
Seat removed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xK_wj91uMhNTOtOOJlIExPt6VAGiQz-JgFtLhu_ZoIGQW0ftQI2XIwIcX002Io9DPXB_yI34mnNB9whL8kkFd4fLopvOMVQf6yoyLdsR--nXVsYbv41XZW6LfHcp3iaESHSQ5mv3gcK1srUy6cRAe3x_tWXW8zuidrPpa1uTVuoJD13jswtzlRH-Hq7URyI8aWWaU_mT5FgreZYAutTGbXoCwmb1NofrSomEMx1edMLBwH5XO7wAg88lkqhzVLNaelgQYdrf3bfxQXpUZeoGQAVl-_3oL_q0hsS5AxMKIkJMUvKxIusNeo_orpxwdPPDkyhtoZiuEGZsH8WTNTryQ_beH0XezWH5UavyBYupqReOWKcuiwqMz_HDUjdPMl0hunA1puMcjvz8lpsXw74fsrgtOBcIXvleYCyCH2Beg4apmWVtmBi1l7jB62l0DhPsNR_dZzJad8R9s1sQjadFe6XqUG3zOcbI-1kIRiJ05FQFE1_clWATvOlK7OaW0slDvHbGJJ9nPqudGEemjPqTFTBcNPEEnxc7o_SLx4Zo8TMgQfiVnEJlr8gQO1girpZDjDIUVTnSLB9dsx9ZhLT4RJslF5OIXgoo=w1470-h828-no)
Trying to figure out how much to chop off the tail loop.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kZuEzlv0FocP4ecMOcEu4y08_Ibzv5Qh65WzlxUCnnOj99U0Gh32OyEhatqZ2-S85O9kGCW-njxaYWyiN3Qo7jFEBvX3Ij-5Vx1NBFTMLgCt156htKqOVjvy1vTZ8NwTm7dQBbvRba3Ejq0xYimk2cK5MlcuphtUd5-nQq8_RA2687VD9Bh1cMi8LZKxo__mRsT6WLFJX8y8RWsA1l58VAJcTBs-lC5svnjqcFIfT1U0AGdslTRl53Ww215lOaRivyATC6JZNxSqP5M40tYsyLRJJkrE3_GlZE2igZsv01IDwwGiYJHU3L9cdlDctgDPDtuljaWAUrjlNTRbUO4yT2ag7Mc3eeTs5V_LP0m6ZO1glJv3GV4iAOhPAvkf4wmaCHk0fVaCXpYYBAMd4VexHVtWQIB8YyApUNe4uSoH2GjQwmNQfyd2H4w3qgKMLWp4ovjWbCHCMXgcu4gtBeIEAa4y7dwccSckoV55pr0boqjFLGb_Bh3y6CcchZOrN40esr23l48zNkw2gSPwfLl-rGotiZXO8IJJ_fSlzsWby6WKb2zOQU-rJ6jraTdIoW_hMNWwZnMfX3GSkqxuHDjKVGkM0olPviNj=w478-h269-no)
Dash and lights off
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xZBUR7h5Ivh0fl_auKnyGZYSEC3Mq50hPwWYDYOp8BSB93syZZONmLqZcuferU0BT2ySCGxt2F5F7wZU8t8WtoVG8slVNE-b7TBv0oG37bFAaJUu0LGPyBNdOA2SsDXp-Qpaq2fGCu7r_8WIwFFGeBsA_Reo9kBS31JCOPxBz6NmOccVkiSowmc4SLfbG0TPkEu7-SX9lhrgpO55VaxaVyuKQrJKgG7FKVTYcHOKkiMlj5k5VEacWYqDMVuXqy14RSSR_nhljpsctQ-f4j_l_GjITqEfQ-dH_LJo_w3rC1Y9F1W0BQdZGOS1EQCVjSzf9Qr5WeDqI-bnikZxJRdM2I_t6nKMhIcics2f0N4mOnZV1A1NYuxtMymTDQmwLYD3AOYkHFTjqyKEIG5pBSgVt-qBfjysD9snHoeeboAtXHo3lmz_qJ67HC9tWzQ4pP4TNTJpsyPfSr4k5OalLtHooffXzf59NBoHIHzwAhmowvo_9EoD91acrU8FzyhAvr8HjymUL3kRvqpZOsdwW4wgUdxOxdSCJY34vQHz8cgvEPKO6XmNHz5RpHRa62WcA_ZGopvDSvLPOPks6kvRNz7dQJfp_qnlpUne=w1625-h914-no)
Headlight and speedo mocked up:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kJchfv_I4A5cpg8U1b4QLIR4qL90A0_y_pM_fUdVoLBoWzEX7E-AsP764FU3YLpvRrLlFG5fyQ4Gqe4FYW9DXQYtb9m0RhvXL0yvrDJI6OJP4hb5thO9NwsCWJJLSq_3UGyTQ0kzkPuRu5zAPzoOj0Hst2wKdJBezisT6n3n-r4MOoYgPe1zAjuo_APJ2BxThGObzwtWwOWEunoiC34h0F0I95U0AXsuIcoyQpqGKuz20Yl7tfhgLjtX-hlqO3n4JDYr4-JXzAzVIQ9nFpp1jq2e8jWgCzIFUtHpIf1w92DHqiYJHde9HdhZgrU3bklBBzYkXGr5oAY1xOkYD9XyNpCW3A14iIaKag7QnRrOet2nFEvVkm_s9SikSNAo9ou3rxul9F-QHqeyectpCNfFVnGTq8BaXEi_owVSKAI-uCQuCTwNzmMRifylYw-_6rtRbkK-PLZK8iuckTEsVnyAQvOnaMuRK9cL4IBMWnhHV72SCtCuS6vlyzzpHN1XafJ16gVtMzFDEh2hBG4MjnNteE3clcjFpkf4Z1N4jD3OS-bZ9VXaapXdhKcvHflKEJkcvj_avH0SVJeCIbU_a7wImxsu_3sQv7LP=w1625-h914-no)
Tank removed - manual out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HSCqdFNZKqwFiKdNIA-bzSoRViR40FL8FGV_VTGlfeJt40Jb289sD2IWaCclXIT9u56HHisH6czLsvIJHQfQeeDEO-KB9IvwrOt2VTW8tV8S19r4Mfs_2AqJb5kgnYHYa_u5k8tc7J5V2U7kZfP0XjrVMKhdm68wZkgesQmi0h8clnE_VjIwIpddw32d6C7qxbpExNWuf35c5o4G-CaADCcfJEY1g9glRKkWKtRPc3w58bR1g9G9gExIzXqXmWsew1lYQFhT-s1Avso6BVQ2tVat50jX5xentewRGt3cScUVxMVMN_RywnQuIEqacvaMByPCLVos9ErkRcqkfvz_2xNEGRqKyZpVe_oZu_hR6tvZFDUleFaXdawwLS8MCy3w94xxVmUSf_UMZQXxvVxpc1f5Yp--R9WrEBSmdD1FRoTd1iEnILz1CVf4-A6YVIzw2rIgf5A-2EYF4OwZ5O-yV5CkSZsvLBSfgyiTScq-_d0rcq3ccDdl-5fbuBz69UIb4bLFCJmoUB1kQxGhF9dqhlPggIICHXMwfJ412WGeQR6SG-47YNV1G0K-DRPR74snTcQDadAA98QPQsVm40qq83lkQ1q3emQV=w1625-h914-no)
Trying to figure out whether or not i can get rid of all these relays with the motogadget m-unit.
Anyone shed some light?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IOHLRc7xHQ2mnbbl2ifPXNsH04GV2R6Bb6qXMKKNr4l-Y0rRwIjlqxRCcBaqElof-EUxNYxv7oE2IOokTuVdlWr_-cfFLJCJLHnC0_hNBXf0-w3C0qul01BuqBpRrWOwmmJMCSshcKZSJiXBVYsquoNqxp1ycL9Vlx0amiEEvhc0Ra-0ee27ZxsFyRgeIMPsbf8GCRxpiWECmbZZw-Sc1b9QXZca09HBh1WeDCooF0zYkIbllXLCdeANsbcbala5n-Hj47pA-GgBdvDpYpfOfWiMPaDWUMcDdN5YJ1JSxe75XISLviJblXh4nzOeNLufunO-Sv3NkOpIjPNNJh8Za6Hmdd0yk46L5hkNWHBhrrqJWpjOtgwHMGbaUFtktJJNSGpy1MHZLCKLhn84G90bsJq4DKlsEFACH5qzBje1_szeNCyuvgdZ2ZdX9okUufpethGiFQDh_1pwqqEB_FNWmI7bXT2hipzIbKk4UdqV5eAHcRiNUofaN4z3aNTkqbcIRQRI58dgAgnoyu9ZTEgp7nvEyGEReG_yDOGgDIyWPV7pGuIdJuvM2HIJUHSXSJGT2CVvVWSttbQMk4XQKGSIEAq0ZJbx6sD-=w1625-h914-no)
That's all for now.
I'm still waiting for the M-unit to come so i had to pause the electrical work.
I got distracted by removing the battery and now im cleaning the 30years of muck in there and trying to get the stains off the alloy.
I've found that WD-40 and a green scouring pad works great with a bit of elbow grease.
I'll keep you all updated.
Stay tuned over the coming months.
DJC
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All I see is ...
Edit: Fixed. Tanks ...
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All I see is ...
Looks like an 85
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Sorry, just noticed it's from down under :hehehe
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Trying to figure out whether or not i can get rid of all these relays with the motogadget m-unit.
Anyone shed some light?
Doubtful.
FI relay - no
Load shed - no
horn relay - yes
flasher unit - yes. Will require major modification of the controls.
BMU - yes
temp switch- no
start relay - no
And then at the end of all this, you're still left with the K100 wiring harness mostly intact because the m-unit won't allow you to replace the Jetronic system wiring and components.
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I'm fairly certain the world wants to know the make model and size of both the front and rear knobbies, DJC.
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Thanks RBM. Somethings to consider there.
Laitch, they are Mitas Enduro E-09s.
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Finally got the swing arm off to inspect and grease the splines today, I had almost given up as one of the bolts was pretty well seized (I had already checked the final drive and internals of the drive shaft).
But, persistence pays and I got the little prick off. Gave the arm section a deep soak in degreaser and scrubbed for a good 45mins with WD-40 and a scotch brite pad. Came up brilliant.
Will post photos layer when I get the chance.
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It's great to see a bike wrung out like that one was. Good luck with your project!
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Welcome to the asylum from QLD.
Regards Martin.
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Got the Lights and Horn outputs all wired up from the M-Unit to the new lights and old Horn (not sure where to locate the horn yet).
Need to figure out how to connect the Start output from the Mu-Unit to the Start relay.
I'm reading the circuit diagram in the manual however i'm still a bit confused.
Has anyone done similar ? I assume that i will need to do something along the lines of cutting the original switched 12+ that triggers the relay and use the M-Unit output from that.
I'm removing all the original hand controls and installing two of these
(http://chop-it.de/media/images/org/Motone_Aluminium_Lenkertaster_chrom_1.jpg)
They will be able to do L-Blinker, R-Blinker, H/L Beam, Horn, Start & Kill (Start and Kill are through pressing a combination of buttons.)
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Have you seen the Stuntexclub video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv-VI3WRYzM
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That's great thanks mate.
You're a prolific contributor RBM. You're a gentleman and a scholar.
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Is there an English version?
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Is there an English version?
Click on CC at the bottom right of the screen, Elipten.
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Duh! And thanks
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Back at it.
(yes my garage is a fuckin mess. i am aware and ashamed.)
Had a good stab at it over the past few days.
Got the Acewell wired up (sort of)
Things that are working on the unit.
>Blinker indicators
>H-Beam Indicators
>RPM (sort of - very jumpy at the moment, may need to build the filter that others have talked about)
>On/Off
Things that aren't working
>Speed (i have removed Motometer thingy from the original dash unit. However, it doesn't seem to work) Can anyone shed some more connection info on that?
> Neutral indicator (i remember a memeber making pre-made units for this - are they still available?)
>Fuel - not sure how to get this one to work at all...thoughts?
>Water temp - not going to use this
> Warning light - might hook this up as an alternative.
Half done with the Motogadget M-Unit. wiring is a mess, but at the moment its functional for the front half of the bike - rear lights yet to be installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UbQo5SeI-irLQRZpjXFbwUu37AEo_Y3xA8i1XL-kki6ZUC2v8HCi6nOwv3Ssb1D-KhwwsCLd1phmieweZ2Em0JviBXNUbzllV0Dg4QQCLLXfVQqe_hq9UKlWkg6dgsNyOQlNDaE-zLZrC5VmA46SaRTQopOBSIY7JPAZw7HvqISxIYVgTMcUK-T05A3Pwx6Schmm6elvbPGzJRCvQOWq4kNsHfr1a6NEsAIq6-apqRtVhFoSUrYux7Ka3i6AnoTZ2VuO4jZpESiDElOTunhuqR9tCMxSnOGkF-UYDpz270E6h8lVkLc7bBqX2Z0XqEwdQ6cfmlY7K0KtK0ad5qgPtXGlndIeBRs-JmGtok1UecRcRA5o2phCEAebdPcMrKjA-isr3EyT_fKGD4TacF1WXoStQP1zsr4n99lYhZE03x4EvbMqzGcnYRSiHxqPhZXIzbAj3yW5fC6VxX7-mFMmrhMzzdbrXMUN99YW3Df0Vyo8Y72N7MTSobeKF7uo2GSGdXDrcacMhjYF3KTjUJ4ZCdeM1OB6iZcrqwegTJUbfVECtrptQztSMc82RgYgyhpNij-ma0__DXdJSYeJXqr6NBR8UArgJ8VW=w1625-h914-no)
Will need to shorten a bunch of cables and tidy up some of the connections when its all complete.
Installed the new bars, still a bit so-so on them. Not sure i like them.
Mocked up the new clutch, front brake, throttle. Nothing is connected yet, just mounted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NZ5ObDu6Bx2-9n4T_neer6VZKUTJGuVPxtmPOTdteMM1knCg2emqpzUcAnj6R3nf2UCuefduuVoIqDknLFAGKM5CWBkkZKeSWLglSyw7ytMBiFsz0Z6Tzo-rRTbaMPLLEwAEAdpjaBAjon6kLYkt272DYcY85VRpbS8z6MEpi_BDrClBsa6cgcfzgg8okksh_Uj27liZ8U1f3rNRaNDJ38RHFSmtPxHyXRNtutpLC5K2NozyN_nA1-IM8phXAXU1Jt7gyBcD9M18ldspA44o3J7Wvlm2laIeajtw6MVs-S4Os9RlDuT6juSTGFRv-ReMVX21rRjQhX7mqiEzECAv06ZdKHvsZiNaDx-vR6O_2rRw9ugOFPmSbuwpfVGAiwIg1yfNy9VS98bWXtSChsVe0pDr_TVI96aswrbjfCM19N2oJ7aQRVWdyfU24BMxhLglcFGzOTUyBDS-qRU370fC5KmAJf5YnZo3wIRHgrxip-9hm0ekmK6jll_3IzElQWkhnrjA9DbS7ALzOvh0vMwC2StkyQtbbhL1wuifeux6uJzZXnYOcOrTjK5eweGdgOqrRH63HMV3DjoapvIA6rhDiJzm1sZXecA=w1625-h914-no)
Also mocked up where i want the EFI/computer thingy to go. I'll need to make a bracket to sit it under there.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pENmOl_PBO9OM_1K80RTmrR_I6eyB05aK4RUWnjn9GXIEtc8hAhJCJMEk3MGsr50NOpOeNjuXaSMNWw9kTXZgxyE8Tokg1PmJZINlgnBuPzA4XqCm9b5dCncws_aaOCEU2Zr02v_ha_9_cPciOD1mVs7h928dkMjncsOOMeWEM_p42HIycfM63ik5pcZTUQIdxKOTH8FmMJBKKLKwS1BaLbcFO-qzigqFHM5rWFMrOtgSmAYw6kASCJ4r3CgPRYwDqmrzeIMk61_m5ELZGMAWFaL7V_Ka1Xhhr9x_-pbWXPA36fH0NIUKXlbi5al6s1jyZCppV6AHdTqyvRbUHFhQq3_TDB_3qr0a3oh6tA7vx2G_byfiZ2yImzeR0zDQBrxS5Ua4NDOB-2AdPLW5Flr7HfJBJ99V2CEQNy1g7-et75arzArNEefkHbBYn50wuRUJvf96fEkR6w6lxVTsd1LcxK3SbUtMvmNG0mA6dBTWtA1YdWhOHYh3b-sV-AfCgGv0Pm97YUDHKD1turxN221oHz2HHju3JqozNa-sOFt8Ydum4Gdc3pHpLdgzP-tPc2ZSPu5UHJmaI8TlxCRO0m1oh8L0CWkP5ZV=w1625-h914-no)
As you may be able to see in some of the photos, i've cut the rear part of the tail section off. Waiting for the new tail-loop to come. Its going to be a long U-Shape that will come all the way up to the tank. Not just a small U-Shape that will connect to the cut-off part. I want it to sit on top to get the angles right.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TvyxB-TC0g_8_2QRf2Dk-DThKpvy9NWXy34E_6xv3gNtjP7ft-p7AeuqwW0oKCFCmiIf0HSJxTebIm6auNlZnFyIzgaqq5SeZd9Q2Pa6KKGTezSbDebaPppt-CLi-nkM7aKolhWTXVfbGlNvj8itkr4hNuiVnZUxUbRv2CsiEJCc9kwHCD8-jy9wj5b3ZnTXkDjHdf_dfUQ0fYs14X0kpvO2ywwW3oJz6nnCyWn6EIPYkz5gLmcF9ERcqbeQyRaD3KHbdixXnzthk7d9UciyR2VlQ5Cp60jUF31Cmjy2yvdc_lM1OpwO743LGbfc8qXEmDWj3rf9w7UEVVS2iflr56YRO6ze6pEc9O1JdrEGROAaJfLZMNOf-FyOmixU0FbDObBvqlpYhl--U5z5EGcOapMK03lFG9_HXzc-QOzKlkLpF2Pzv-GHM2bf6vfXbYOOAqh_eFv6wXKjLewTtrw77cRTok1mvSbrUNDLsDSMVZgpi2wWCSgsMMdbg4EkqWrxe5SkgC9r4pSAjfIafgN8kNLagO5DP0xvrFUgzAKV8NeZ-r2PRje1KRchxfi3idSsww3ixkrZcgMSljHvnNmOn592P42nqa0p=w1625-h914-no)
Next steps while i wait for more gear to arrive are:
Clean up cabling.
Properly connect the clutch/brake/choke.
Install the bar switches for lights/start/stop etc. (waiting for the switches still).
Figure out why the speedo isn't working and make the Tacho work properly - very jumpy.
Has anyone relocated their choke? i'd rather not have it on the handlebars, maybe just a small lever where the connection point is or something.
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Could I see pictures of your mounting of your acewell please.
I was going to mount mine to the handlebar bolt...
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Not mounted properly yet.
Initialy I had it on the risers, but it stuck out too far. I'll need to make a bracket that sits a bit lower.
But I'll probably keep it bolted to the riser.
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Installed my left hand switch block m-switch.
Also cut and shaped the front fender which was surprisingly easy with a bench belt sander. Will need to give it a coat or two.
Writing and updating while on the phone so, sorry for the formatting.
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Also I followed the instructions on another thread
about using the stock motometer circuit board and using this for the speedo/acewell input.
But I'm just getting a solid 6v output I haven't taken it out for a spin yet because it's not rideable but I've vigorously spun the wheel and then tried turning it on while on the centre stand and putting it in first to get the wheel going. But still no luck.
(Further info on how I mated stock speed sensor to aftermarket gauge (BMW to 5v Digital)
This method worked for my 93 K1100LT (ABS 1/early model year version), proceed at your own discretion.
1) Remove your stock gauge cluster.
2) Open it up to reveal the back of the important bits.
3) You will see that there are a couple small circuit boards placed in plastic clips. You are looking for one that is approx 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide and 2 1/2 to 3 inches long. It is readily accessible. It will say in printing " blah blah part #, MOTO METER, blah blah part #." I can long longer read those off my board before you ask. Another visual indicator is that it has 4 female connections in a row on one end.
4) Remove the board.
5) I removed the 4 female stab connectors and put in terminal connections. Each connection point is labeled with other a single or dual letter combination. I can no longer read mine.
6) When looking at the top (front) of the board and the MOTO METER is correctly orientated the connections are as follows:
Left to right
Speed sensor + (yellow wire) (from final drive)
Ground (brown wire from speed sensor AND another lead to vehicle ground)
Digital Signal Output + (any color you like) (you need to identify which lead from your new speedo is the POSITIVE SIGNAL IN)
12v + (I used switched power from something that I removed)
7) Package it up to prevent shorts, use the new speedo tire diameter to adjust and calibrate.
Note: This circuit supplies 6 (six) 5 volt + signals for every rotation of the wheel
Has anyone else successfully used the old motometer board? I'd rather not admit defeat.
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I recently bought a Motogadget M-unit & M-button & am about to remove what seems like a ton of relays on my '88 BMW K100RS & find myself intimidated a bit w which relays to remove safely. Before I go past the point of no return, I'm trying to determine which, if any of the relays associated with engine/ fuel management & that computer need to remain before I completely butcher everything up. Any advice or additional photos would go a long way.
Thanks in advance,
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Don't worry. I was just as hesitant.
You'll need to keep the starter relay, the load shed relay and the temp switch.
The rest I pulled out.
Then relocated the remaining relays all to one side of the box the m-unit slides in neatly.
My wiring is in no way neat at the moment.
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We'll try to get you going. No need to admit defeat.
Board Schematic
(http://www.k1100lt.de/files/flybrick/DKTK/Bilder/56.jpg)
Board Connections
(http://www.k1100lt.de/files/flybrick/DKTK/Bilder/81.jpg)
In this photo, the pins are:
"+" - Power input (usually Green/Black)
"BA" - Speed signal output to Acewell. BA stands for B-ausgang or B-output.
"-" - Ground (usually Brown)
"BE" - Speed sensor input (yellow) BE stands for B-eingang or B-input.
Make sure you have attached the Brown wire from the speed sensor to a ground connection on the bike. BTW, it should be six 7.5V pulses per revolution, not 5V pulses. The 7.5V Zener determines the output amplitude.
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You're a bloody legend. I'll try this on the weekend and update.
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Alright so it turns out that my Motometer unit has been fried.
Disappointing.
Looks like i'll have to mount the reed sensor that comes with the Acewell.
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Too bad. That looks to be a result of wiring up the board improperly. It's repairable for anyone who has some electronics skills. It looks like the BE input got burnt so it would mean replacing the IC and looking at repairing the traces.
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Yeah i think i might have shorted something out when wiring it initially.
Only noticed it after i loomed all the cables nicely and soldered on the terminals - go figure.
Yeah - i MAY be able to repair it, looks like the track has lifted though. I'll take a better look at it and see if i can get replacement parts.
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Hey all,
Quick update on the bike.
I spent a few hours this weekend cleaning up the headers.
Lots of WD40 and a couple of green Scotchbrite scrubbing pads from the supermarket.
I also used a wire brush attachment on the more heavy set rust and grime. Came up a treat.
(yes, one of the pipes is missing.)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8BYuwHwv7nYHgMFv56vo98BsweTUNbQO4ENTX-yVisNZ9le9UUsk4oGNcU4h_lwzCDWL_lUuLEuwspa10Rv3dCkzSSb0tRPHptwMe4fyM2b8FEG-P2KY_9HuUrN5vGEV14-OYk01__YC2Nwiex8Mkx7Eah8G3N8PkSUXz9yt0Ztezg4KeWVIUQ5PDwERnj-yuWnOca68JaDKnpBSAsp71V2DUk5CHPtTa-qZfT0rUsYmajrPblkD6fMBiH_6c9XTHaDUzEjzqMjzwVjJHfgLkE0Ltx3hB6TOaEJvyYcTkFD7xK-bwbnA_D9PKTrnuzpyb3BNuZHOxIcSyK2K63euNXuBRQQ3YlP40QOust9YTQnHZKnwzJ4u6jzJnrrLM4Xs60PIHgYppD12HQk1GVCbQcc_17fSt7uh-ZlEE_DefVOIO0vHEXCXFPklSwWEY8AYX1gEOQlVIJZNXfjPyfac2zuHjicLv5Be_wjQA5MpWPMih9behQCcNFlvaaabyoPNcNc9aGQHDXkNFjRa83s75FjRH8gmgD_HYnGq-a_ZYZZ6fRLTlsEe8XWeRGn9Z2NthaWrbg0REaM646oMC_Wh--XWdynuhqpX=w718-h404-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JI-ElYh1GapcuE16PpErNFoM3b4FcdLrnfdKD5L4kuOVY9WAu9liDsGnPKH44yoO7kdi7r4QVaBRCb5NAGXYRuuxGwlIBrbDT8r3mqVDiHN3FkeVr2mne45ke7hy998DgEdOoY-iasxCCvoJE0Q2gjsPeJZ1cBUBZU2QAJUKnpDAe-R4PNZ0AFaUn0ifckQpaSZyqsQcq-EnNlfjiWj8VVmLm34lnLku7O4cSSpKEjwhuFmEVbAOLpiMJWLi7bZ8uRAjyDcHXp3S8szThss-TxXOAvIixu8f-3sKtp8mkgc8ACmOIelFIemsX7JLUOT-YAGuym7dGqvmazU0ci3oD8Sd3uPmzaEwUvgTSDXbIALwmFDAvcZJ7s17AvdVXG-6gPmW4eHVG3yVJNJQOd3I_L_LSUIsd48LijSkW1q9POO6F3amgF4c9gmZFctJvQVH5Bzo2BjlHNzOPmFITY8DBm9mntNZw0Fd1A8L8x3cu_V8utuUdUXymoEY1dSyc9MyrjditF3Xj-wmbW2EC4TwfZh5hylgWRaUoh1_zGXLTvD30lMtUPSxMLg97Eet_w4Wwi21lEgkbns8ZLpK4a7tqr4hk46A7VFO=w1716-h965-no)
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Hey your images aren't showing up. I'd like to see, because maybe one day I'll care enough to tackle my headers.
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Hey your images aren't showing up. I'd like to see, because maybe one day I'll care enough to tackle my headers.
Sorry mate - try now.
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Also - I had a look at the post that RBM made on the K100 forum about modifying the fuel sender.
I was about to start this, but i have found that my gauge can be configured to read reverse resistance if required.
So, my question is now - what pins/colour cables do i need to connect the Acewell to?
I read somewhere that someone else connected it to the "Yellow on the OPTIONAL ACCESSORY plug" but if i take a look at that diagram. it connects to the headlight and headlight switches.
So, now i'm confused.
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If you have a later model K100 with the float arm fuel level sender, then this electrical diagram you posted above is the incorrect one for your model bike. That one applies to early model (=<1985) You need the later model one (>1985).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1rWHlMbC01eGtwR1U
This will have the correct wiring and you'll be able to identify the right plug. It will be on the right side of the frame under the tank, near the relay box end and will look like an old style PC hard disk power connector.
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I have a 1983 model.
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Hey Folks,
Time has come for some professional intervention.
Shipped her off to get some surgery yesterday.
Shes off getting a new tail loop section and seat put on. Can't wait to ride - it's getting close.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IB07aJl-1OWKl6sEzC8dKprlyw5QwzdIQgFWJ7EehMXoS_gtIWmc4Ol-mp-sMmRUdtLl5YKLmzwRfqK9Rn_ms9FivSDOqaBfW2-slKj84pp_0F4LaWFvl8Nhv4YToiXll5qkn-5A8smpbNO_825Bmw4TOFaY7TADTH6uDn4cQ0jTw7SC66xtWlsq-c-tvEOuDgjxn-EZsm4VLQcPmf-l31JauWqGREGv55Rxz9s6IdFjx-ftkVtR0oCE6IzCQql0K5EUYExocg69VFZh5xJAOYpa2NXug1J9_IUrw9OjsYQLyrmEzKVoD1wuUQDdse4dI5BFrvqZYFmhdFL9Dsu5zYwOiXryh0NhEk8sErJJLHXa7UGJmZ1yk_YpKWw_bDZNQHMAbo-PR_g7F6tci4acnsGgO1suunJkrMaTFOdVs3k6WWUgOmu-1C5HiuLnrRizDt0T5_tLTVNkM9JDycMASUREvnNzKD2SE-l9Bt1rbi99O2pC2IsJLwGRFIVaEX1lSM-sQJSJIffATN4njENxOFzCYIJx3ZvzcKU-Rw3rKDex2ykKkiLwARu1Q7O61dJza3DqqGzblgCxRDL1tnv-6l2zqgMVKJ3a=w1716-h965-no)
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Gents,
Has anyone made up a bracket for the Acewell Speedo reed-switch setup? Pics or sketch?
It looks like its going to be tricky.
//OR//
Anyone have a spare dash that they can pull out the motometer thingy and i can buy it off you?
Bike is still in the workshop - the builder has a lot on at the moment. Hopefully i'll get it back within a couple of weeks.
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If you have a later model K100 with the float arm fuel level sender, then this electrical diagram you posted above is the incorrect one for your model bike. That one applies to early model (=<1985) You need the later model one (>1985).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1rWHlMbC01eGtwR1U
This will have the correct wiring and you'll be able to identify the right plug. It will be on the right side of the frame under the tank, near the relay box end and will look like an old style PC hard disk power connector.
Hey RBM,
Any thoughts on how to get the older style Fuel Level sender working for mine? Seeing as its an 1983 model?
I read somewhere that it uses self-heating thermistors. Would that mean that there is a variable resistance as the level varies or is it a variable voltage?
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Hey all,
Any thoughts on creating the attached for the fuel sender?
looks like i can just trigger two relays to put various resistance into the fuel meter on the acewell which can be configured to take a 0-500Ohm signal.
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She's got a new tail and exhaust.
So close.
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Try prototyping this circuit to see if it works:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rpFgGOVdndVj6Gc0QT7X00hVbwdZ5l_b0o5GWTwqSuTG-0NGjRYu8HfUXhHvlDSO-HvPirexyyFRfi7cNlQBFwW-uL66kU6YVpSo45QtERtke0oRzfmw-AiPF4UIWWPoQh6GSAN6sARP1cZMO3wgQqshuH6x3PFeclqfCEoJVqO_nuhgNdm1fJeCi4MEQ5E43_aKHZn4rusislC8EeeXas6Y1PbCrYec3Y_oJJs756ctwO5OtWMDAyftnhT_pKakPG1mrjMO3446cebUSTiddx2-gtBo-0dh0FxynROZGxRj3CTvSbWw_CUxn2N-zOESk_L-bW8GIMeIqakzhUIwxAbkPUsiS71GuSEvqguf5Kd6PeRktl6h52mZ8qsgmbHEbUXSIvCiI3U7s25t2gz__WOtof5ofMIu_o5GzUerj4TeJ_hh9DymkTHik1U5YaCBc3tm0nUDRVY8bzGPkJaO2lJHAojzDcBXwfGttbcEzEvnPAmiJg0Cdzd0LFVZ9I-UE6TfioEze8zrAllvoKaDIIq6XpjwTXSJnxQT-wPMU5j-uSK1ayCnUAFCHFkF6i8w0_KX4_jPkXb6pxjBm_vttWudY2778UDvTT-DjpWdfFMGApWz=w614-h648-no)
I'm assuming you've kept the OEM fuel level circuit board from inside the BMW cluster and the outputs of that card are being used to drive the relays.
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Okay, I was under the impression that the thermistors inside the tank spat out a +12V signal when NOT exposed to fuel.
I haven't snagged the unit out of the old dash yet. Is it as easy to remove as the speedo board?
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The NTC resistors in the tank sensor are part of an electronic system which must have the circuit card from within the OEM gauge cluster present to work. It is easy to open the gauge cluster and remove the card.
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Thanks RBM, do you know where I can find a diagram of the internals of the cluster to find what card to remove.
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Dieter's K-tacho Kompendium (http://www.k1100lt.de/files/flybrick/DKTK/index.htm)
https://flic.kr/p/qGzzPe (https://flic.kr/p/qGzzPe)
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Okay, looks like it's probably an L shaped unit in one of the corners. I'll check it out tomorrow and see what I can rig up.
Thanks.
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RBM,
The unit looks the same as this.
http://www.k1100lt.de/files/flybrick/DKTK/Bilder/73.jpg
I can see a + / - / C / A .
Thoughts on what the C and A mean?
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Also, here is an update of what she looks like.
Took it for a quick spurt on Sunday - the weight loss is definitely noticeable
I know this photo may offend some purists.
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Also, here is an update of what she looks like.
Pretty slick, DJC! What size and make of tires and tubes, front and rear?
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Slick?oh well.Nobblies and high zorsts imply mud and river crossings.Cut down mudguard implies shit hitting the fan!
Yeah, I think form follows function but there will be a lot of fun to be had on your bike DJC.and that trumps everything.It made me larf not barf.
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MITAS ET09 are the Tyres.
Not 100% sure on them yet. Might go for something a bit more suited to the road with a little bit of knobbly-ness.
Yeah Dude, you're not wrong, jeez its fun.
But yeah I'm going to get a radiator guard set up and probably larger guard when i take it off-road. Don't want stones through my radiator.
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Cut down mudguard implies shit hitting the fan!
:clap: It's a certainty and might even lubricate it!
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I don't think that's the correct board. There's to few components and connections on it; there should be a couple of adjustment pots, a couple of BD240 transistors, a couple of BD877 Darlington drivers and I don't see them. Did you trace the circuitry from the external connector to that card to verify that it is the correct board?
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Here we go.
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Yes, that's it!! The schematic for this card is attached to this post.
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So, T1 and T2 look to be the thermistors.
The four pins at the base are Gnd, +, T1, T2. Diagram suggests that those two T1/T2 pins are the thermistor inputs. Top right two pins are the +12V for each corresponding thermistor.
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None of the components on the card are thermistors. The thermistors are on the inside of the fuel sensor in the tank. Here is a cross-sectional photo showing the insides of one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F-NtlNxowm36mzNrLYMhEEKybZBaMIqnxZ0rt7mEuOJLg6y-SX84Dtj_ZuHufgTKm38N4aFO7RP7q0SEvlSQT6wZwzy6mpOKyLeHNFvGeWeZFaJ6JJAKWpMoJD2VNhGFS-Jkj0cJ2MtiFuwPhIIxQHX04nQAjyUo1GBIA23bd6Pyp16DZYaAoaqgIs3ozQkjkRkDQ6jxcLyCwK3GIXdLRHRyvFzllkTGbs2k7eVzywzdcx1GJ3wEJPPgvNSGwitaU88ThEtsz0vV_NlD82yBL5WWNGvYDTT1SsvtR2fzEVX3KKsvSql9ZD1h448HDNdFsLS9uAZWTGTCHIz5MhyhhUTE-4ujEV_mKgHurTuUy8UmfRQUL5oANUJGkz_L7KGwopq5Hb2NK_WcNgPVydrhThm2fnHyS7XZSiYta3nFV-MYFgpmZLcrXKEDkMsNSjz0thhHfq87ktJOAoiI7Ff9AMwkaYOhNrkw7wRdkGWBpJHf5wmHXaMEoJ40CRfzQoIUniu6ec-sWBd_WX9MxfAZEpvB5woZ3d4Nmg37kHPxLNDCkiuXlrdN86CwG7Xi2GeBngrpgpZ7gj0f8pamxFVrIldzgK9bsOuPmL4pzP5XS--2ONNp=w400-h300-no)
Check the schematic I posted against the board and carefully trace out the circuitry to make sure you have the correct connections. My guess would be that the four connections at the bottom of your photo are the thermistor inputs from the sensor and the power connections. The two connections at the top of your photo are the 4L and 7L outputs given their proximity to the two power transistors ... but that's a guess.
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Yes, apologies. That's what I meant.
The T1/T2 pins in the four block are the thermistor inputs from the tank.
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So what happened w the M-unit & that install?
Can you post a few pics & a write-up?
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M-Unit is in and sorted.
The wiring at the moment works. Its not pretty and has all the redundant old wiring harness still.
Next project is is clean the wiring up, use nice plugs etc.
At the moment it's all in the original relay box under the seat.
I need to get/make a wiring diagram of what is needed from the EFI unit / temp and all that. Then strip all the old wiring out.
If you want an easy installation, 100% go the BEP from Maru Labs.
I only went the M-Unit because I wanted new hand switch controls to clean the handle bars up and I'm a bit of a twit.
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None of the components on the card are thermistors. The thermistors are on the inside of the fuel sensor in the tank. Here is a cross-sectional photo showing the insides of one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F-NtlNxowm36mzNrLYMhEEKybZBaMIqnxZ0rt7mEuOJLg6y-SX84Dtj_ZuHufgTKm38N4aFO7RP7q0SEvlSQT6wZwzy6mpOKyLeHNFvGeWeZFaJ6JJAKWpMoJD2VNhGFS-Jkj0cJ2MtiFuwPhIIxQHX04nQAjyUo1GBIA23bd6Pyp16DZYaAoaqgIs3ozQkjkRkDQ6jxcLyCwK3GIXdLRHRyvFzllkTGbs2k7eVzywzdcx1GJ3wEJPPgvNSGwitaU88ThEtsz0vV_NlD82yBL5WWNGvYDTT1SsvtR2fzEVX3KKsvSql9ZD1h448HDNdFsLS9uAZWTGTCHIz5MhyhhUTE-4ujEV_mKgHurTuUy8UmfRQUL5oANUJGkz_L7KGwopq5Hb2NK_WcNgPVydrhThm2fnHyS7XZSiYta3nFV-MYFgpmZLcrXKEDkMsNSjz0thhHfq87ktJOAoiI7Ff9AMwkaYOhNrkw7wRdkGWBpJHf5wmHXaMEoJ40CRfzQoIUniu6ec-sWBd_WX9MxfAZEpvB5woZ3d4Nmg37kHPxLNDCkiuXlrdN86CwG7Xi2GeBngrpgpZ7gj0f8pamxFVrIldzgK9bsOuPmL4pzP5XS--2ONNp=w400-h300-no)
Check the schematic I posted against the board and carefully trace out the circuitry to make sure you have the correct connections. My guess would be that the four connections at the bottom of your photo are the thermistor inputs from the sensor and the power connections. The two connections at the top of your photo are the 4L and 7L outputs given their proximity to the two power transistors ... but that's a guess.
Hey RBM,
Whats stopping me just plugging one of 600Ohm thermistors onto the speedos input itself?
Granted i'd only have two states - full and empty, but it will only be 1 less stage of "full-ness" than with the board/relay/resistor setup we talked about.
Or will the tank thermistors just not function at all if they don't get the correct voltage fed from the board..?
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Your latter statement is the most correct one... "will the tank thermistors just not function at all if they don't get the correct voltage fed from the board..?"
Both thermistors are supplied a 95mA current by the circuit to heat them up. They sense the presence of fuel because the thermal mass of the liquid cools the heated thermistor and the thermistor assumes a given resistance. When the fuel depletes and the thermistor gets exposed to the air , the resistance changes and that shift in value registers in the circuit. You need that special circuit board to sense the change and switch on the indicator light (or in your case, switch on the relay).
Hooking up the raw thermistor to the fuel gauge will not work at all, period.
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Right. I thought that might be the case.
Give a couple of weeks and I'll test the rig and report back.
As always. You're the best RBM.