MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: iiXioM on May 06, 2016, 10:57:51 AM
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Hello all.
I've posted here long ago with help on this same bike. It was a friend's and has since been out of my hands and he let it go downhill. I've essentially inherited it off him and would like to begin restoring it. I would like to go through it and bring everything back to factory-level functionality. I'm unsure what model k100 it is. I do have the saddlebags for it, hopefully that denotes what submodel it is.
Here's the breakdown:
125,000 mi on the odo. Gears broken, no idea actual mileage...
Nearly no fairings
No blinkers. The ones on it were put on by my friend, wires never run.
Tail light doesn't work off the brake levers (previous owner put in some sort of bypass with a spring and piece of string)
It was turned into what it looks like now (no fairings) by the owner previously before my friend got it. I'm not too much of a fan of the cafe racer look.
Needs new tank
New Tires
It has an ignition bypass on the side of the bike that cranks the starter without the key in. won't start without key set to 'on'.
New seat. Badly. (will replace with at a minimum, a corbin)
..mirrors...
So I need advice, where do i begin? I already plan on the usuals, drain -all- fluids, replacing tires. From where, where would i go? Should i start on wiring real blinkers? Should i tear the whole thing down? Should I just get the splines out of the way first? The bike did work before it sat up for a few year, so i know the motor isn't seized. Is there somewhere I can find exploded views of...everything? lol.
(http://i.imgur.com/U6riQH2.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/g4rBvY5.jpg)
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wow, Kudos for attempting to revive it. I'd drain the tank and clean it first. Then go to The workshop/no start here and figure out the starting issues. Hopefully the wiring not too whacked out. Check the splines, if they're bad it may not be worth bringing it back.
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Are splines expensive to replace? I'm no stranger to taking this thing apart so I'm not worried about the labor involved in getting in there.
The wiring is completely cracked out. The previous owner before my buddy hacked it to hell and back. The buttons on the dash are stuck, there's black electrical tape over a the constantly-on hazard light, etc. All sorts of things here and there.
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Splines can run $400 to $1000, maybe less if you can find some used ones. 85 K100's had different splines than later ones, along with wiring harness and other sundry pieces. On the bright side, looks like the bike is protected by a guardian bell :yes
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That does sound pricey. Can I still buy "new" splines from BMW or are they no longer manufactured? I'm hoping the splines are ok on this one. Highly doubt it, though. The wiring harness is what's going to drive me batty to get everything working correctly.
And yeah...i gave my buddy that bell. somehow it made it back to me. So I gave myself a guardian bell. lol..
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If you haven't got a manual yet, you can download one from the Motobrick Technical Library It covers your bike's model and year, among others. Exploded diagrams are at MAXBMW (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51747&rnd=07012015).
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Clean it and then try and do an assessment of what needs to be done. Then try to price the parts needed, and when you have a figure, double it or possibly triple it. A gutsy effort, start a post and keep us updated. Congratulation for even considering a rebuild.
Regards Martin. :2thumbup:
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Well, I ordered a PC680 to replace the crapped out battery that's currently in it. I tried to pop open the gas cap to assess the inside (water leak, gunk, etc) aaanndd...snapped the key in the lock. Luckily it was a dupe and not the original key with the hinge. Got 2 keys made today at a local locksmith. Sprayed the lock hole with liquid wrench, hopefully it'll help me unlatch it.
Talked with my buddy the other day and he reminded me we lubed (heh heh..giggity) up the final drive splines with honda moly a few years back. he hadn't put too many miles on it since (less than 5k) and the splines werent chewed up. I'm hoping the other splines are good to go. I plan on regreasing the final drive as well.
In everyone's opinion...Does this bike look like it can be salvaged, or even worth it? Aesthetically speaking, i know it looks like a neglected step child, but it worked prior to sitting up.
So far this is what I'd like to do:
Get bike to at least start (priorities, right)
clean/degrease all the things
drain and replace all fluids
Replace all hoses
redo wiring
tires
lube (giggity)
replace all brake pads (front ones were replaced by me ~3 yrs ago, better safe than sorry)
fix instrument panel (plastic gears in it are basically gummies)
I believe from here it'd be a matter of fairings and other nonessentials, right?
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greetings...
id put the iconic 22 liter on the bung and ride it... postpone the nonessentials after you know you can getts some yeeehaaaa...
j o
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I'd either part it out or put it on Craigslist for $400.
That bike looks like it will create unending headaches for you.
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I'd either part it out or put it on Craigslist for $400.
That bike looks like it will create unending headaches for you.
What makes you say that? It was working (mostly) fine before it was left sitting up.
greetings...
id put the iconic 22 liter on the bung and ride it... postpone the nonessentials after you know you can getts some yeeehaaaa...
j o
I've still got the side bags and the top trunk. They'll definitely get thrown back on there.
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Try and get it running and assess what it will take to then make it reliable . Seat is no big deal.
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It's so (visually) far gone that the muttering has started
But treat that as a strength - don't worry about cleaning it up other than to get the parts working ... a rag and kerosene keeps the patina.
These bikes are well engineered so it might respond with some TLC ... and money
Some parts are expensive. But if someone is breaking up a bike you might get items cheap. A good second hand spline for an 84 K100 cost me $50, final drive $70... Also put the call out for parts. Everybody here is hoarding.
Consider it a puzzle / challenge. Enjoy the journey.
Some quality time ahead - good music in the background, cold beer to hand, the smell of mechanics and little victories. And if it goes to shit use the parts on another bike.
Re: tank. See my post... soak the innards in white vinegar and wipe. Repeat repeat.
Better than pouring coins through the slappers (pokies) or throwing it away on lotteries.
Keep the updates coming.
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Noble goal to 're-build, but the down-side is that could be very expensive with undetermined miles in excess of 125,000. I agree with TimTyler that the time and expense will be excessive.............fuel pump, brake master cylinders, brake calipers, possibly brake discs, shock, relays, clutch, forks rebuild, electrics.......You know.......all before any cosmetics. Maybe a running lower mileage would be a less challenging project......just sayin' a LOT of work. This bike is representative of a " new life bike", aka cafe or scrambler, rather than restoration.
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It's so (visually) far gone that the muttering has started
But treat that as a strength - don't worry about cleaning it up other than to get the parts working ... a rag and kerosene keeps the patina.
These bikes are well engineered so it might respond with some TLC ... and money
Some parts are expensive. But if someone is breaking up a bike you might get items cheap. A good second hand spline for an 84 K100 cost me $50, final drive $70... Also put the call out for parts. Everybody here is hoarding.
Consider it a puzzle / challenge. Enjoy the journey.
Some quality time ahead - good music in the background, cold beer to hand, the smell of mechanics and little victories. And if it goes to shit use the parts on another bike.
Re: tank. See my post... soak the innards in white vinegar and wipe. Repeat repeat.
Better than pouring coins through the slappers (pokies) or throwing it away on lotteries.
Keep the updates coming.
Yeah, that's exactly it really. I'm looking forward to wrenching on it every few days with some tunes in the background. I'm in no rush to take it outside for a hundred miles tomorrow or anything. I'll use it as therapy until im able to actually get it safely on the road again.
Noble goal to 're-build, but the down-side is that could be very expensive with undetermined miles in excess of 125,000. I agree with TimTyler that the time and expense will be excessive.............fuel pump, brake master cylinders, brake calipers, possibly brake discs, shock, relays, clutch, forks rebuild, electrics.......You know.......all before any cosmetics. Maybe a running lower mileage would be a less challenging project......just sayin' a LOT of work. This bike is representative of a " new life bike", aka cafe or scrambler, rather than restoration.
I definitely know it's going to be a lot of work, but im actually looking forward to it. The money thing...i know it can get pricey but I'm hoping fleabay and the forums could help with some of that.
So last night I got home and tried the new keys I had cut. Neither of them work. In the tank (wont slide all the way in) nor in the ignition (just wont rotate). I still have the original hinge key but im worried about breaking it if i put too much twisting torque on it. Which way is the key supposed to rotate to pop the top? Counter-clockwise, right? How hard is it to get new sets of locks?
Also, looks like the PC680 I ordered from autplicity is back ordered. I found some on Amazon but with 170CCA as opposed to the 220. Will the 170 work?
Thanks for all the advice guys!
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Small interesting update:
I managed to finally pop the gas cap open. It was super sludged out. hit it with copious amounts of WD-40 and cleared all the nasty gunk. I'm able to get into the tank with no issues. The inside of the tank is clean but the gas is definitely useless. No rust or dirt inside at all.
I had a lawnmower battery sitting around so I wired them up to see if I can get power to the electrical system and if it cranks over. I turned the key (which i also had trouble getting to switching to "ignition" position). I got power! Decided to see if it would crank over, and the bike churned out a few spins. The battery was crap but at least I know it's not seized, starter works, and it puffed out some smoke. It's definitely going to live again very soon. Now if I can find a damn battery somewhere...
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Change the oil. No point trying to run it with bad oil.
You should go through the basics and clean them first - drain bad fuel, oil, coolant. Injectors might be reluctant to come out. Maybe new 95 or 98 octane might let you dodge this ... forcing the injectors out might dislodge the pintle cap and damage lower o-ring... then it's service time at approx $30 each.
What is the brake master cylinder like? Mine was seized and ... bought a new one. Should have reused the old one until the bike was ready to return to the road. $193 for the piston and rubbers only(complete unit). Welcome to BMW pricing (admittedly some things are acceptably cheap). Hope a brake fluid flush will work. If brake lines are blocked, they might clear with some tie wire pushed up the line. My front master cylinder to steering head was beyond reuse but the others cleared easily.
See my post on cleaning the fuel tank ... vinegar wipe repeat rinse
we will be interested to see if your creature from the black lagoon gets back on the road.
Regards
Guy
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Change the oil. No point trying to run it with bad oil.
You should go through the basics and clean them first - drain bad fuel, oil, coolant. Injectors might be reluctant to come out. Maybe new 95 or 98 octane might let you dodge this ... forcing the injectors out might dislodge the pintle cap and damage lower o-ring... then it's service time at approx $30 each.
What is the brake master cylinder like? Mine was seized and ... bought a new one. Should have reused the old one until the bike was ready to return to the road. $193 for the piston and rubbers only(complete unit). Welcome to BMW pricing (admittedly some things are acceptably cheap). Hope a brake fluid flush will work. If brake lines are blocked, they might clear with some tie wire pushed up the line. My front master cylinder to steering head was beyond reuse but the others cleared easily.
See my post on cleaning the fuel tank ... vinegar wipe repeat rinse
we will be interested to see if your creature from the black lagoon gets back on the road.
Regards
Guy
I'm sure the injectors need to be cleaned up and tuned.
The brakes are definitely not seized. They definitely do need to be flushed though. I doubt they've ever been since my buddy got it.
Creature from the black lagoon...I'm going to have to stamp that on the bike somewhere. Or call it Gillman once it hits the pavement!
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'Nother nice update:
Had a few min and decided to tinker. I popped off the gas cap and proceeded to empty out the tank. The gas in it was very watered down since the gasket was essentially useless on the cap. Surprisingly, the inside of the tank was very clean. A few rust spots here and there but very similar to Vespa no more's second image in his fuel tank cleaning here: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg62911.html#msg62911 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg62911.html#msg62911)
I did buy a bunch of vinegar (Gotta love sales) which I'll use for rusted screws/cleaning other rusted parts. Do ya'll recommend I run vinegar through the tank anyways? If so, should I pull the fuel pump out? The actual fuel line inside the tank looks great, but I will replace it anyways.
Also, great news! I got this thing to turn on! Testament of BMW reliability. After I drained the tank, dried it, I threw in some fresh 93 octane gas, played with the starter and choke, and started it. As you can see here, it was sort of happy to start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7f-J6qWS_0& (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7f-J6qWS_0&)
So i've noticed two things:
The starter does the spinning thing. I remember seeing something about a fix for this somewhere, so I know that's repairable.
The somewhat pinging sound that can be heard, would this be associated to the the gearbox like this?
(http://i41.servimg.com/u/f41/16/61/73/02/shaft_11.jpg)
Thanks for all your help guys. This forum definitely helps a lot!
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Did you yell IT"S ALIVE if so you can call it Frankenstein well done.
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Did you yell IT"S ALIVE if so you can call it Frankenstein well done.
I yelled it out, and then proceeded to cackle like I had a frontal lobotomy. Or a bottle in front of me. I can't remember which. Muahahahaha! It was definitely exciting. I plan on tearing it down soon, hopefully the inside inside isn't too bad. This'll be the first motor I ever really crack into. Should be fun.
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Congrats
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I plan on tearing it down soon, hopefully the inside inside isn't too bad.
Why are you tearing it down—low compression values or what?
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I am with Tim Tyler. Part it out. I had a 85 that I worked over, but it was running, good, no smoke, gas tank good. Spent $2K getting it back to good shape, not pristine by any means, just reliable. You will spend a lot of money on that thing and you can buy them in PNW for $100-$2500 in great running shape. Cut your loses. Just my Opinion.
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Looks like it came out of a swamp. And on this basis be careful what you clean - if you want to keep THAT look.
I hope you changed the oil. False economy not to.
The pinging maybe the antibacklash spring but let the bike get to operating temp first. It is not a small job. Turning the silver idle screw (yeah the one with blue loctite on it) to increase revs to approx 1000 or 1100 may lessen the noise (record how many turns you did for later). I saw someone with a microphone go round the motor and measure the noisiest section (ie output shaft behind alternator) which is best method I have seen.
The whine is normal.
Best to flush the tank. Once dry, I vacuumed mine to remove grit. replace fuel filter - doesn't need to be BMW brand. Check this forum for alternative BMW parts.
Clean and gap plugs (0.6 - 0.7mm), check the fuel lines for cracks and replace (inside tank needs submersible hose not standard fuel hose). The fuel in under pressure - don't want any leaks and fires. Check and clean air filter (mark the outside edge and top before removing. Easily put back in wrong).
Allow to get to operating temp and check that fan comes on. The bearing in these is a bush I believe and can go bad. Haven't had mine out.
injectors are probably dirty but check you can check the spray from each by removing the FI rack and keep injectors in place. This is not accurate. Also check on youtube for others' suggestions. Caution: injectors may be hard to get out. Clean the area around them. Crud will build up around body and may significantly hinder removal. Some spray might help (WD 40 et.al) but don't then let it fall into cylinders. Use a air compressor to clear beforehand. Vice grips (or similar) can be used to grab the metal body (quite robust) as I had to on number 1 injector. O-ring and pintle cap may be damaged and require servicing ... see post on 4 hole pintle on this forum.
Anyway your bike seems to be firing on all cylinders ... maybe leave well enough along for the next week. Just change that oil. And don't rev the shit out of it (up and down up and down) when cold - build the revs gradually and give it a chance to settle and come up to temp. Once the fan comes on then rev it if you must. As we all know motors don't mind being used - just not abused. And this is the huge appeal of K bikes - that quality motor. Look after it.
A manometer is a useful item for balancing throttles - assuming all else is fine... unlikely because rubber hardens as it ages (dehydration??) and air-tight seal is accordingly compromised.
You might have fluked a bike that under the dried green slime / residue might be quite roadworthy (something we are all unlikely to agree on - 'cept that it needs to be safe)
Keep the pics coming
Regards
Guy
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I plan on tearing it down soon, hopefully the inside inside isn't too bad.
Why are you tearing it down—low compression values or what?
I figured tearing the bike down for a nice cleanup, wash off the surface rust and have parts repainted so the bike does look like it was driven by someone in the Mad Max movies. lol. That, and see if theres any maintenance needed inside the engine block itself. Maybe replace many of the seals, gaskets, etc etc. hardcore maintenance stuff.
I am with Tim Tyler. Part it out. I had a 85 that I worked over, but it was running, good, no smoke, gas tank good. Spent $2K getting it back to good shape, not pristine by any means, just reliable. You will spend a lot of money on that thing and you can buy them in PNW for $100-$2500 in great running shape. Cut your loses. Just my Opinion.
I hear ya on that. Thing is, i got this bike for free. My buddy went and had a family and kids so the bike was neglected, so now its in my hands. It was reliable when he used it nearly daily. I'm fine with dumping a little bit of money into it since i inherited it, and it gives me a side project to tinker with. By no means do i think i'll be able to tour across the country with it (unless i really get into all the innards.) All else fails and the motor is trash, it looks like i can procure new ones on ebay for about $200 with 40k or so miles.
Looks like it came out of a swamp. And on this basis be careful what you clean - if you want to keep THAT look.
I hope you changed the oil. False economy not to.
The pinging maybe the antibacklash spring but let the bike get to operating temp first. It is not a small job. Turning the silver idle screw (yeah the one with blue loctite on it) to increase revs to approx 1000 or 1100 may lessen the noise (record how many turns you did for later). I saw someone with a microphone go round the motor and measure the noisiest section (ie output shaft behind alternator) which is best method I have seen.
The whine is normal.
Best to flush the tank. Once dry, I vacuumed mine to remove grit. replace fuel filter - doesn't need to be BMW brand. Check this forum for alternative BMW parts.
Clean and gap plugs (0.6 - 0.7mm), check the fuel lines for cracks and replace (inside tank needs submersible hose not standard fuel hose). The fuel in under pressure - don't want any leaks and fires. Check and clean air filter (mark the outside edge and top before removing. Easily put back in wrong).
Allow to get to operating temp and check that fan comes on. The bearing in these is a bush I believe and can go bad. Haven't had mine out.
injectors are probably dirty but check you can check the spray from each by removing the FI rack and keep injectors in place. This is not accurate. Also check on youtube for others' suggestions. Caution: injectors may be hard to get out. Clean the area around them. Crud will build up around body and may significantly hinder removal. Some spray might help (WD 40 et.al) but don't then let it fall into cylinders. Use a air compressor to clear beforehand. Vice grips (or similar) can be used to grab the metal body (quite robust) as I had to on number 1 injector. O-ring and pintle cap may be damaged and require servicing ... see post on 4 hole pintle on this forum.
Anyway your bike seems to be firing on all cylinders ... maybe leave well enough along for the next week. Just change that oil. And don't rev the shit out of it (up and down up and down) when cold - build the revs gradually and give it a chance to settle and come up to temp. Once the fan comes on then rev it if you must. As we all know motors don't mind being used - just not abused. And this is the huge appeal of K bikes - that quality motor. Look after it.
A manometer is a useful item for balancing throttles - assuming all else is fine... unlikely because rubber hardens as it ages (dehydration??) and air-tight seal is accordingly compromised.
You might have fluked a bike that under the dried green slime / residue might be quite roadworthy (something we are all unlikely to agree on - 'cept that it needs to be safe)
Keep the pics coming
Regards
Guy
I don't think im going to go for a nasty new orleans swamp monster look. I think after i get it working well I'll get it painted a nice clean white, with a powder coated frame black so it looks very fresh and BMW-esque. I may pull off the front end and turn it into a naked k100 standard, or go up to an RS. Leaning towards the naked bike as far as look.
I didnt change the oil when i got it cranked, so i only let it run for a few minutes. I full plan on draining all fluids and replacing before leaving it running for any extended time that will allow the whole block to warm up.
Hopefully in a few weeks I'll get around to cleaning the hell out of it. I'm not entirely sold on getting into the motor itself for advanced maintenance, but i know it may have to be done. I definitely want to do the basic stuff though. And i've got a local BMW moto shop that is very popular (not dealership) who said they'll clean up my injectors. They'd definitely have the capability to deal with that more than i would.
I also noticed today that the front brake lever is essentially shot. no feedback at all, so ill probably be cleaning up some brake parts soon.
Thanks for all your help guys, its definitely much appreciated. can't wait to run this brick on the road again. It's been a while since i have.
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Please start a Projects thread with this adventure. It doesn't belong in the Maintenance category and currently there is no section for "Dream Work."
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Here's an applicable vid showing testing technique.
Testing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgLR5qv7F8I)
Here's the [whole enchilada, patio style, for your delectation. Yours has one additional cylinder, so how much harder can it be?
Rebuild (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKrbjMhZCAE)
If it were my bike, I'd start with dishwashing detergent and water, compression and vacuum testing, then proceed like this.
Refresh (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7810.msg55909.html#msg55909)
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I do have some parts you can have at for a price :deal:
- 13mm Front Master-Brake Cyl with the accelerator thing (I need my coffee okay!?!) also comes with a grip too incase you want.
- Triple-trees/Forks etc.
- Front rear snowflake rims
- Front Calipers
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Dismantle the brake master cylinder, free and clean the piston. Not a hard job. .Clean with brake fluid (probably the only time old fluid is useful - normally thrown out)
Don't buy new (previous post with offer of parts noted) until you have inspected bore, rubbers and action.
And don't waste time looking for new piston rubbers - couldn't find them anywhere (well here in SE Aust)... $193 later... Buggered My Wallet ... Bruised My Will (to live)
Has anyone found rubbers to put on front master cylinder piston??
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Has anyone found rubbers to put on front master cylinder piston??
Beemerboneyard has a piston with new seals and washer. 50 USD
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https://www.motobins.co.uk/mobile/bmw-parts3.php?bikeref=K100&P=3&model=K%20Series&M1=89&M2=15790
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https://www.motobins.co.uk/mobile/bmw-parts3.php?bikeref=K100&P=3&model=K%20Series&M1=89&M2=15790
That's even better!
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Vespa I bought two kits from the Beemer Boneyard for less than one from here, and that included freight. I find it cheaper most times to get OEM parts from Beemer Boneyard, or from UK Motorworks or Motobins. I only buy local when I need parts in a hurry.
Regards Martin.
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Yeah yeah ... rub it in.
I suppose I thought that I "would have it on the road very soon" and needed the part NOW!
and went local (insert unhappy face here or anyone of Laitch's pallet (nay ... WAREHOUSE) of imogees)
So now I've got a good second hand piston which I WONT bother to put for sale.
The internet has totally undermined the captive audience / market ... if you've got time (and know it)
Took my bike in for road registration attempt 2. Leaking fork seal (which I knew about and forgot to wipe before he looked at it). Either I go elsewhere and wipe or I change it this weekend. Fork slide is a bit rough and the seals are old. Bandaid solution to be employed.
Will keep you posted and hopefully pic from somewhere exotic ... like broken down somewhere isolated. Will stay local for a while so I can call my wife to bring the ute (pickup) to collect.
Guy
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Try Johnnys homemade fork seal cleaner worked well on a mates bike. It's posted. I have an advantage a mate bought about 1 1/2 K75's in bits but missing all bodywork and I can borrow bits while I am waiting.
Regards Martin.
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I suppose I thought that I "would have it on the road very soon" and needed the part NOW!
and went local (insert unhappy face here or anyone of Laitch's pallet (nay ... WAREHOUSE) of imogees)
I cannot take credit for them, Guy. The credit belongs to the world famous MOTOBRICK.COM's creator and the stewards thereof.
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take it apart learn everything you can about it clean clean clean put it together and bring it to life dont be afraid os so many on here of doing the work its all worth it when you hear it run and say TADAAAAAAAAAAA I DID THIS AND IT IS GOOD good luck and best wishes and safe fun riding miles to you
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I do have some parts you can have at for a price :deal:
- 13mm Front Master-Brake Cyl with the accelerator thing (I need my coffee okay!?!) also comes with a grip too incase you want.
- Triple-trees/Forks etc.
- Front rear snowflake rims
- Front Calipers
I'd like to know more about the 13mm Master you offered up .... including the grip!
Email or post pictures, I could use some spares to compare.
Don in Nipomo
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take it apart learn everything you can about it clean clean clean put it together and bring it to life dont be afraid os so many on here of doing the work its all worth it when you hear it run and say TADAAAAAAAAAAA I DID THIS AND IT IS GOOD good luck and best wishes and safe fun riding miles to you
That's my thoughts on this project. I have no problem taking this thing completely apart and cleaning it. I picked up a ton of vinegar and baking soda to use for cleaning all the grime off the aluminum. Next up, I need to get a roll of wiring so I can fix up the electricals too when work begins (hopefully very very soon).
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So I've been reading a lot over the past few days and I've noticed the general consensus is to check compression and check/adjust valve clearance. If compression is low or bad, then tearing the motor down is needed to fix valves or piston rings. I don't have a compression tool handy so I will order one. Are these one size fit all sort of things or is there a specific adapter I'd need for this test?
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Some just have a tapered rubber bung on the end which you press into the plug hole and keep pushing while you check the compression. The better ones have a range of adaptors which screw into the plug hole. Take an old spark plug with you and make sure you get the correct adaptor with the gauge. When you check the compression you need to have the throttle wide open. Readings should also be even between cylinders give or take 5- 10 Psi.
Regards Martin
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Sweet that points me in the right direction. Time to hit up Amazon. Thanks!
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You will probably need a separate adapter for the compression tester. Most of them don't have the correct thread for the special size BMW plugs. Not a big deal, they only cost a few bucks.
I don't think you need to take the time to do a tear down of the engine. Beyond all the fluids, splines and plugs just check the timing chain, valve clearance, and all the rubber bits for cracks and holes . Drain the oil and do a flush with a new filter(an AC Delco PF53 is cheap and works well), three quarts of 15w 40 oil and a bottle of Seafoam. Run this in the engine for 20 minutes or so and do another oil change and filter with synthetic and you're good to go.
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I got mine as a set about 10 years ago it didn't have the right adapter. I made one out of an old spark plug. However a mate scored one from a flea market, new in a box for $5.00 with a correct adapter. Unfortunately not branded. I missed it, he scored.
Regards Martin.
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M12 x 1.25 is the adaptor needed.
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I just picked up this one from amazon, has a 12mm, 14mm, and 18mm adapter. I figured one of these would work and I guess i was right with the 12mm!
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-Compression-Tester-Piece/dp/B000EVU89I?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
score. Either way I'll be tearing the bike down to get the frame powder coated and i noticed i do have the old center stand with the open ends. It's definitely going to have to get replaced. Time to read up on valve adjustments.
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Gotta love amazon prime. Got the compression tester in today and just couldn't wait. Got everything up and ready and tested the compression on all cylinders. Cyl 1, 3, and 4 got above 130psi, and cyl 2 is at 125.
Yesterday i went ahead and checked the oil, it was near empty. filled it up and ran it for a few minutes. it seems to be burning oil and smoke is coming out bad out from under the bike and near the exhaust. it seems i have sprung a bit of a leak. the entire underside of the bike is caked up in oil gnarly oil. Looks like I'll be checking the timing chain, valves, and plenty of gaskets. Oh, and a new gas cap....i couldnt get the cap reopened and somehow stuck...so i ended up getting angry and using two flathead screwdrivers and a knife and shattered the inner plastics of the cap. Now i have to watch beemer boneyard like a hawk for one.
Go figure. lol
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Hmmmm...........you coulda drilled a 1/4 hole half inch forward of the key slot, stuck a skinny screw driver in to trip the retention arm.and the cap pops open. Then just bung the hole. Your compression numbers are good, though, and you can pressure wash the gunk off with details-gunk. You are on your way!
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Hmmmm...........you coulda drilled a 1/4 hole half inch forward of the key slot, stuck a skinny screw driver in to trip the retention arm.and the cap pops open. Then just bung the hole. Your compression numbers are good, though, and you can pressure wash the gunk off with details-gunk. You are on your way!
Yeah, i probably could have drilled a hole into it..but i hulk-raged a little bit. No more of that, though. Raging gets expensive! lol
I was always told not to pressure wash these bikes as they could introduce water into the electrical equipment. Is this true?
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I was always told not to pressure wash these bikes as they could introduce water into the electrical equipment. Is this true?
It's likely to do what you were always told, iiXioM, but why should you believe me? I'm just another member of the Always Tellers society.
Whether you do a refresh like Marshall's or a total frame-off, into-the-case restoration, you'll have plenty of room for wiping down parts as you go. A brush with soapy water and a low pressure rinse on the case is good enough if you're putting it on the road right now (once you replace the fuel cap assembly) or trying to clean it enough to find leaks; otherwise, just thoroughly hand-spray it with Febreze.
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On the other hand, j o has a differing outlook and cleaning tips here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8356.msg63464.html#msg63464). Unfortunately, they're only for pirates engaged in couples therapy.
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My approach to using a pressure washer is to use it only for the bottom of the engine block, with copious degreaser to eliminate most of the accumulated grime on a bike bottom. No where else....well, maybe wheels.
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Run the bike for awhile before you worry about oil burning. they can settle down with use.
Regards Martin.
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So random question relating sorta to the pressure washing:
Not only can you get water in the electrics (for me it's not something I would worry about) but in the final drive and gearbox due to the breather caps.
On a GS however I am told there is some sort of tube that is connected and located higher up on the bike to allow fjording (sp?)...
Has anyone modded their k100 this way?
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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On a GS however I am told there is some sort of tube that is connected and located higher up on the bike to allow fjording (sp?)...
I wonder if that's for absorbing the impact after plunging off the cliff.
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Have you seen how Johnny washes his in the car wash?
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As far as cleaning goes, to the parts that are accessible:
I would buy (and this is what I have done), the citrus cleaner (gunk-out?). Its the most basic and non harsh engine cleaner you can get. Also get some hard plastic brushes. Anything more abrasive (steel or brass) will leave marks. The plastic doesn't and cleans everything up really nice!
Take a look at my build page to see some examples on the before/after.
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So progress is currently slow going due to work and school taking my time. It probably won't be street ready till the fall at the least but hey...its a process.
I managed to pick up a replacement gas cap with key from beemer boneyard. Took it apart to clean it and replace all the gaskets with my rebuild kit I originally bought. The latch piece was a bit corroded so it's taking a nice vinegar bath to clean it up a bit. All pieces were cleaned and degreased to get packed with new fresh grease. A video I saw online said pack with vaseline. Can I just pack it with a normal automotive grease like lithium or honda moly? Any negatives in doing so?
(http://i.imgur.com/mfFutTl.jpg)
As far as cleaning, I ended up getting some Simple Green Industrial Crystal Cleaner. Supposedly it's safe for motors/aluminum, and boy does this stuff do the trick. I don't have before and after pictures of the specific sides, but you can safely assume the entire oil pan looks like the first image, the wreckage of the Titanic. Second pic is after leaving the cleaner on for 10 min and hitting it with a hose. I cleaned the entire motor with this yesterday and it made it shiny. I really need to take more pictures.
(http://i.imgur.com/45zhbgP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/pPRAqmb.jpg)
I'm going to have about 5 days of free time in two weeks, so this thing is going to go from assembled to pieces very soon. Can't wait!
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Also, I've been keeping an eye on seats on ebay. I tried looking up info on how to get seats from post-'86 onward on a '85 bike. One place I read that it's easy to do just need to replace the rear cowel to have the grab handles. Is this true? I tried doing a quick search but not finding much info.
Thanks!
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I tried looking up info on how to get seats from post-'86 onward on a '85 bike. One place I read that it's easy to do just need to replace the rear cowel to have the grab handles. Is this true?
If this is the source (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5746-how-can-i-tell-which-year-k100-seat-i-have#76832) of your information, it is a good one.
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If this is the source (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5746-how-can-i-tell-which-year-k100-seat-i-have#76832) of your information, it is a good one.
That's the site I came across. It's really that easy? Just replace the rear cowl and i can fit most post '86 seats?
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That's the site I came across. It's really that easy? Just replace the rear cowl and i can fit most post '86 seats?
Maybe you should start a poll.
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So I had some free time and wound up hitting most of the bike with some light degreaser, car soap, and a bunch of water. Let the frankenturd dry out in the nice 105+ degree New Orleans weather, and managed to get it inside. This setup isn't idea but I don't have a garage, and a heart condition says I'm not going to deal with the heat. Anyways. Pictures!
(http://i.imgur.com/YpUFAG2.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UN6raOf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0iU4VCC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6msoybB.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/PYSPcSL.jpg)
Getting the headlight fairing was a complete pain in the ass. It was stuck on there with 2 inch headless screws and half a dozen hex nuts. I forgot to drain the final-drive oil hence the bottle of Milo's sweet tea. Hoping in the next few weeks I'll have the bike broken down enough to check valves, cam chain, get the frame off and powder coated, and then building back up (unless there's something else I should check). Local BMW shop is going to sync the throttle bodies, and i'm wondering if i should send the injectors to get cleaned by mrinjector.com. Ordering a small spool of wire to rebuild some of the harness and some pirelli sport demons with the next amazon order. Still need to rip out all the old rubbers as well. Did i miss anything? Lol.
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Hey!Nice to see you've got the original tool roll and with most of 'em still there.Mine crumbled some time ago from overuse syndrome.
I changed my cam chain,guides and crank sprocket at around 200,000km,service record.(K75)Only the guides needed a refresh.Cheap and it was slightly smoother running,maybe.I was paranoid it snapping or grinding through my thrashed motor.Could've done another couple of hundred thou no worries.....mostly used the best oils I could afford,mind....just saying.
Keep going.All the best.
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Well, I am of the mindset that this could be a very decent bike with some elbow grease, as long as it has good compression. These bikes are very resilient. If the bike has good compression, and after a fresh oil change that smoke in the video we saw disappears, you are good to go. These bikes only need fluid changes and armorall- lots of it, to preserve all the plastics AND to help the wiring harness to remain pliable.
1. Change all fluids, including brake reservoirs and fork. Be careful of the fork plugs- these take very little torque to damage the threads..
2. While the tank is off to change the coolant, take the time to CLEAN the wiring harness and rub it down with armorall to help preserve it. You could even take the time to check all electrical connections and lube them with carbon conductive grease.
3. Wipe the inside of the tank down with paint thinner to remove varnish.
4. Pull the pump and change the basket filter.
5. Change the fuel filter.
6. Change the plugs.
7. Change the air filter.
8. Add the proper amount of seafoam treatment to the tank. Let the bike idle until you hear the fan come on- then you will know that is good.
9. Check the clutch cable adjustment.
10. Grease the side and centerstand pivots.
11. Get new tires.
12. Get new roundels.
13. Clean however you can and SATURATE all rubber and plastic with armorall.
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Sorry- I posted the above before reading everything. I would now suggest you go all the way on this, and really, not much further than you are now, and take it down and have the frame powder coated. Then, you would be assured that every minute you put into it will result in a bad pass bike. If you don't, you might wish you had later. This will also give you further knowledge about the bike in whole, allow you to further inspect and clean. C'mon- we are cheering for you....
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Dude, That tool roll is a life saver. Can't even count the number of times I used that kit. Even on my F650GS or my Ninja 250. Is the cam chain and guides difficult to replace? I've seen short videos here and there of people taking it apart but not much info on replacing it. I always add the best oils into my vehicles so no issue on that front.
Brahma, Good point on the armorall. I'm going to have to grab a bottle of the stuff. I was unhooking cables yesterday and the coatings on the cables were rock solid. At this point, i've had my hands in this bike since 2011. I'm definitely just going to go for it and bring it back to life. A once over on everything and doing it right the first time.
I would like to convert it to an RS, but the plastics would break the bank. I'll figure out what I'll turn it into aesthetically after the beast is cleaned up and in tiptop shape. Steering way clear from the cafe racer. I plan on taking this thing up to the Dragon or Cherohala skyway.
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Dude,Is the cam chain and guides difficult to replace? I've seen short videos here and there of people taking it apart but not much info on replacing it. I always add the best oils into my vehicles so no issue on that front.
I would like to convert it to an RS, but the plastics would break the bank. I'll figure out what I'll turn it into aesthetically after the beast is cleaned up and in tiptop shape. Steering way clear from the cafe racer. I plan on taking this thing up to the Dragon or Cherohala skyway.
Chain sprocket and guides were easy enough to replace,but I'm loath to disturb anything which is still serviceable for fear of introducing "gremlins".You might remember Honda cam chains in the eighties and nineties.That's why I thought mine must be chewing its way out through the side by the thrashed milage I'd done.
Lot of weight in the beautiful RS fairing,money too.You could consider bodging a K75 S fairing on instead.I think they are even more aesthetic.I've seen one K100 made up like that on this site recently and,well,I just couldn't help myself...Still, your R 90 S fairing look alike with round HL ain't bad either.(prolly a bit floppy?)
Yeah,keep going.
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I'll definitely check the chain once the frame and all the other parts are off the motor. Hopefully it hasn't chewed the inside of the case and I don't have to change it but...who knows. Now that I got the front fairing off, I'm going to start ripping out the back-end and for the splines first. Hopefully they don't like like mashed potatoes.
The bubble front fairing is cool on an old bike, but on the kbrick i'm not much of a fan. That, and the previous owner hacked up a bunch of metal plates to get it mounted. It rattled and shook hard when riding. That, and it's worn down and cracked in multiple places. I don't want plastic shrapnel flying at 60mph+. At the very least i'll just mount the circle headlight using some proper clamps, and go from there
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I'll definitely check the chain once the frame and all the other parts are off the motor. Hopefully it hasn't chewed the inside of the case and I don't have to change it but...who knows. Now that I got the front fairing off, I'm going to start ripping out the back-end and for the splines first. Hopefully they don't like like mashed potatoes.
The bubble front fairing is cool on an old bike, but on the kbrick i'm not much of a fan. That, and the previous owner hacked up a bunch of metal plates to get it mounted. It rattled and shook hard when riding. That, and it's worn down and cracked in multiple places. I don't want plastic shrapnel flying at 60mph+. At the very least i'll just mount the circle headlight using some proper clamps, and go from there
Chain and guides is easily done,motor in the frame.Cover off and check for peace of mind but it's a good safe design,anyway.Your compression's still good so it won't be too crucial.
Yeah, go for a blast first and sort a fairing from there.
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Slowly working on it from here on out. Got about 30 min into it last night. P/O bypassed the rear brake light with some sort of pull switch that engaged the light when pressing down on the pedal (which caused the switch to stretch, engaging light). Unsure why this was in here but I will sort out electronics after.
Removed a good 3-4 feet of 'aftermarket' wiring: a button that was attached to the frame that ran directly to the starter/battery. Another bypASS for unknown reasons. Pulled the 12v socket that didnt work, come to find out the previous owner wired both leads to nothing. Literally, it was attached to a grounding point and nothing else. Pulled some inline fuses that were dangling from the battery terminal. Total fire hazard on two wheels.
Pulled the side cap that covered what looks like where the spark plug cables go. Not sure what this is called. Distributor? lol.
Things learned so far: Never underestimate what you'll find on an old bike. I found bungee cables, a few burned wires, what seems to be a porcupine quill, SAE nuts/bolts mixed in with metric, and maybe a portal to Narnia.
Picture of left-sided nudity. Planning on pulling the exhaust and right Z bar today.
(http://i.imgur.com/e4y6Iiv.jpg)
I'm trying to figure out the best course of action to pull the frame off. Do i need to pull all the wiring before i can remove the relay box? Do i pull the forks/triple tree off befor or after? Should i pre-drink a few beers or is this a post-work beer job?
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You could always do it like this. That yours is a K100 shouldn't matter much. Pre-beer would be preferable unless you're a functional alcoholic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrFQVD9ikPU
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This video helps immensely. I may do a variation where I pull the front end off since I'm trying to get to the frame, and due to limited space. Thanks for the pointer here!
And fortunately or unfortuntely, I've never been drunk as I very rarely drink any alcoholic beverages. With all the craziness in the world, though, it may drive me to.
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I was looking up stainless steel brake lines earlier and thought about brake line length. Then it dawned on me, my brick is an RT, but the handlebars are definitely not. Can anyone ID what I may have? Also, yes i know, my workspace is terrible...but it's air conditioned...and with temps reaching 110+ where i am...I'll deal with it, lol.
(http://i.imgur.com/5n2zJzl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jsZ7W2h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aLgAxVc.jpg)
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An old K100 is a gift that keeps giving. Picked mine up two years back. When I flinched after seeing the receipts, my wife said, "I'll buy it, now git outta here!"
The last dealer inspection noted compression at 170,80,160 and 175! Go figure? WTH, bought it anywho. Got a new meter last week, tested it hot today.., 161,153,156and 156! Go figure?
Checked it twice, can't believe the dealer numbers. Same with valves. Way outta whack. Hellova bike these old Ks. There's a lot to do, at 84k miles, made in '84, congrats on the effort.
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These things are pretty cool once cleaned up and running. Mine definitely needs a good bit of work and time, but it'll be worth it in the end. Gives me something to do to clear my mind, almost therapeutic.
Didn't get very far since last week. I pulled the exhaust off finally. And by pull, i mean I really had to pull to get the nuts off the flanges. The underside is definitely gunky. Can't wait to clean this sucker up and make it sparkly.
Next up is the part i'm not looking forward to: pulling the front-end off. I was weary of doing it, but watched a video last night and seems fairly straight forward. I haven't decided what im going to do about the front forks yet. Should i replace the springs? do i need to? What about the bearings? The steering doesnt feel notchy at all. I'm sure I need to replace the fork oil. I think the seals are alright since theres no leaking, but it's got boots on them. As you can see, the front end gets me a bit up in arms. I had a F650GS with a leaky fork seal that just wouldn't stop spewing, and had a fork crack on me.
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Slow progress is still progress, right?
Finally got the triples off. The bearings are magically in fairly decent shape. There are traces of some sort of grey lithium smelly grease. The top bearing looks like it was replaced, the bottom looks like original. I'm replacing both either way.
I pulled about 3ft worth of roasted cables that looked like they went to the front blinkers, heated grips, and possibly an extra 12v socket. Cleared all screws, plastic, rubber, and other bits from the frame, now i just gotta find a reputable and reasonably priced powdercoating place, then the madness can begin!
(http://i.imgur.com/VfC61lu.jpg)
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Impressive
I haven't been on the forum for a while so it was pleasing to see you taking it all on. Hopefully there are no major financial issues lurking around the corner. I hope you are enjoying the process and look forward to more pics in the future.
If the rest is getting sprayed, you will have some of the best before and after pics.
Regards
Guy
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Impressive
I haven't been on the forum for a while so it was pleasing to see you taking it all on. Hopefully there are no major financial issues lurking around the corner. I hope you are enjoying the process and look forward to more pics in the future.
If the rest is getting sprayed, you will have some of the best before and after pics.
Regards
Guy
Hey Vespa. I'm definitely enjoying the teardown and work. It's definitely therapeutic, even if it doesnt turn out well in the end it was fun.
So far no overly expensive parts to replace other than basics, such as rubber hoses and such. I think the most I've spent so far are in cleaning supplies and the battery. I'm going to get my hands into the splines hopefully this week, and i'll find out how bad off i am. I got the bike for free, so i figured if it's mostly functional and i drop maybe a grand or so to get it into good condition/restored, its better than dropping 1k to 2k or more for a mystery on two wheels.
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My bike is an 84 K100RT
In doing some research, I ran into youtube Chris F-Bomb Harris. Splines were "a deal breaker etc etc" but managed to get a good second hand one for about $50. they are out there so don't let that put you off (too late now obviously). Don't forget to do the other end of the spline.
I look at some bikes online and they are clean and sorted. Too much so. My bike is still sporting a 30 year patina - something I like (and loathe). But they are the best of puzzles (never could do the rubics cube) when finished they don't just get packed away into a wardrobe.
I can see you cheering once into your first proper ride.
Keep the posts coming
good luck
and remember "all mechanical problems are finite"
GF
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Watching Mr. F-Bomb's video on getting to the clutch splines were a huge help, and always comical. His videos coupled along with this forum and its assortment of helpful people are a goldmine of information, and highly appreciated. With that said...Updates!
I decided to go all in and pulled the final drive, drive shaft, swing arm, and transmission to get to the clutch/splines. Obviously to no one's surprise, there was absolutely no lube on the clutch splines. On the other hand to everyone's surprise, the splines seem to be in near perfect shape (from what I can tell, anyone want to chime in?). I don't see any 'mountaining' effect, no metal shrapnel, etc.
The side of the transmission that connects to the clutch is extremely dirty and you can tell in the pictures below I started to get through the grime. Nothing a bit of water and some apple cider vinegar can't get through. I'm making sure it doesnt get to any seals though. I don't think vinegar will eat rubber but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Again, sorry for the messy place...No garage and I'm working with what I can. it's normally 100+ degrees outside and heart condition inhibits me from working in such heat.
Final drive and drive shaft is pulled!
(http://i.imgur.com/AA3Q8kF.jpg)
Drive Shaft
(http://i.imgur.com/BbMhizG.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hk9DaN2.jpg)
Decided to drop the motor on it's side for clean-up and getting to the oil sump underneath in the near future
(http://i.imgur.com/hcuAv4v.jpg)
Clutch!
(http://i.imgur.com/pORP9S5.jpg)
Splines
(http://i.imgur.com/FmRHXbN.jpg)
Grimy Exibit A
(http://i.imgur.com/ZQwlL0l.jpg)
First pass at cleaning off the dirt/grime/clutch dust. I didn't know it was actually grey underneath...
(http://i.imgur.com/fdECMpO.jpg)
I just ordered a container of blue magic metal polish, some 0000 steel wool, and a few other cleaning materials. Once I'm done cleaning the transmission piece, onto the engine block itself. Hoping to get to the throttle bodies and injectors. Any tips on cleaning those?
Thanks all!
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What a glorious mess. Married? If so she seems to be understanding. Probably knows there's a great ride ahead.
If you want to DIY the injectors - check on youtube - there are a few suggestions there which might work. See my response earlier re: removing injectors (or type it into search). A service for 4 injectors cost me $120 dollars (Australia) - so that's probably uhm... $15 each in USA.
Re: splines: to me, it looks like the teeth at 7 & 8 O'clock are stepped. Hopefully not.
Is anybody else out there alternately cringing, silently cheering this project on as well as watching - interested in the spillage of "K" viscera? Remember the first few pics of this bike - swamp monster. Keep it up. Would love to think you get it on road without any major issues apart from cleanup and perishables.
Regards
Guy
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Negative, not married as of yet. Though all of this work is being done at my parents' house (my dad has a ton of tools).
I read about Mr Injector for the injectors and fairly cheap so I may go that route.
I rechecked the splines, they don't have any mountaining effect to them.
It's definitely a beautiful disaster right now, but it's going to start ramping up soon. I dropped off the frame to get powdercoated, should be done by next week. Went to maxBmw and made a huge wishlist of parts i need to either get or replace (all rubber components essentially) which hit a fairly high price range (pfft. bmw...) but i'll more than likely order soon. Currently researching options to get all the nasty grime off the engine block itself and going from there. Can't decide on if I'm going to bother painting it or not.
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Once you have the injectors clean it pays to run a bottle of Caltex Techron through your fuel system once or twice a year depending on mileage. I run half a bottle per full tank twice in a row. It's one of the few additives that seem to work.
Regards Martin.
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Seafoam always seems to make mine smoke
Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk
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Negative, not married as of yet. Though all of this work is being done at my parents' house (my dad has a ton of tools).
I read about Mr Injector for the injectors and fairly cheap so I may go that route.
I rechecked the splines, they don't have any mountaining effect to them.
It's definitely a beautiful disaster right now, but it's going to start ramping up soon. I dropped off the frame to get powdercoated, should be done by next week. Went to maxBmw and made a huge wishlist of parts i need to either get or replace (all rubber components essentially) which hit a fairly high price range (pfft. bmw...) but i'll more than likely order soon. Currently researching options to get all the nasty grime off the engine block itself and going from there. Can't decide on if I'm going to bother painting it or not.
Let us know what you decide about the grime. My brick has an unpainted engine, tranny and swingarm that's pretty heavily oxidized.
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Been a few weeks since I got my hands on the brick. Time for a small update. Warning! Picture heavy!
I've decided to not paint the brick or motor parts. A thorough cleaning gets most of the grimeout. Industrial Simple Green, Dawn, and tons of elbow grease makes parts halfway decent.
I finally finished cleaning up the transmission and got my hands on the actual motor. First order of business was to remove the air box and throttle bodies for cleanup. Nothing some Dawn detergent, Simple Green Industrial, and a wirebrush can't handle. As expected, the rubber parts are all falling apart. There's a local shop that will sync the TB's for me so I got lucky there.
(http://i.imgur.com/UKYYhoF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/b8lzQ1bh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VDRMBVsh.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/vr7AxM3)
(http://i.imgur.com/auwHvMEh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sXT9AExh.jpg)
As a bonus, I got my frame back from the powder coaters. It looks amazing and picture doesn't do it justice....
(http://i.imgur.com/8kbzJhkh.jpg)
I've also decided to restore/convert this bike into an RS. Thanks to Revrdmark for the entire set of plastics. Complete with peace-skull on the tail piece.
(http://i.imgur.com/sd8o4Q4h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vS78s7Nh.jpg)
When i pulled the TB's off, the top of port 3 seems corroded/crusty yellow. Anyone have any clue what it may be from? Perhaps water? I'm going to take a picture of it the next time i get my hands on it. From here, i need to pull all old rubbers, clean all the things, order replacement parts, and put it all back together! The forks will be fun to deal with but I think i can manage.
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Yeah!! glad they showed up ok! I hope my blue painters tape "tab A fits in slot A" system makes a little sense :dunno2:
I think i used every packing peanut in Spokane to ship that thing! The guy i bought the bike from was a retired military airplane mechanic and not the type i would have associated with the "peace skull" sticker but it takes all kinds huh? Great progress on the bike buddy!
- Mark
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So I haven't posted in a while (damn the whole life thing and trying to finish school). Bit of progress has been made since August. Throttle bodies have been cleaned, all rubber boots/hoses/worn pieces replaced. All splines lubed and transmission/final drive bolted back up. Threw the frame on, painted the center/side stand with some cheapy rustoleum paint. Currently in the progress of figuring out the wiring and getting blinkers/brake/head light functioning as it's supposed. PO fried all the cables so I'm stuck recovering what i can. Wheels are at a local shop to get tires and front bearings replaced, and the bottom race of the triple tree removed. So much muck and grime cleaned off this thing!
(http://i.imgur.com/phGXghol.jpg?1)
Old clutch boot/worn spring vs new
(http://i.imgur.com/9nl0ahO.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/iOd95jE.jpg?1)
Powerrrrr!
(http://i.imgur.com/hGH0hYL.jpg?1)
Issue I'm running into right now is all wiring, but the open road is in sight!
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Still working on this! Everything is starting to come together and nearing completion. Snagged a nearly new tank off Ebay and hooking up brake lines.
Speaking of brakes... I have stripped one of the threads on the yoke tube/brake tube that goes from the steering lock nut and splits into two. I figure this would be a good time to upgrade to stainless steel lines. Does anyone know if there is a kit that skips the tube? Will i have to replace the tube anyways if i got stainless lines? I can't seem to find any info on this.
So this is how the Frakenturd sits at the moment:
(http://i.imgur.com/ETcj8nr.jpg)
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Still working on this! I can't seem to find any info on this.
You can rig it like a K75S maybe—a line from the brake lever to the right front caliper, a metal brake line bridges from the right caliper to the left caliper. Grommets in the two-piece fender of a 75S damp vibration of the metal bridge. Look in the K75S Brake section of MAX BMW's parts fiche.
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Well, I ended up snagging a fairly cheap brake tube from Ebay for $50, along with 2 very good condition brake calipers. Win-win for me here.
Now I'm running into a new yet weird issue. When I put in the throttle cable its short by like...half an inch or so. I was putting in a new cable so I thought i got the wrong cable. I compared it with my old cable and they're the exact size. Any insight on what is possibly my fault? Would it be a routing issue? I have messed with the adjustment on the cable to allow the most slack. It's almost as if the cable isn't long enough from the holder-notch thing on the throttle body, to the actuator. Hope this makes sense.
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Check the alignment marks at the throttle, there are marks under the cover. Or the chain could be snagged.
Regards Martin.
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Are you installing the cable on the actuating cam chain on the handlebar control first before installing it on the throttle body cam?
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There is a definite sense of joy once machinery runs properly (speedo aside - love how the speed climbs as the revs do). But what is that whine? Mine does it... they all seem to do it - normal apparently.
Looks like the tank has been bogged up along the bottom edge. There are frequent tanks available so you might want to trade up.
What's the accent? Kiwi? Brit?
Enjoy riding it - maybe to the tune of "everybody's talking" (Harry Nilsson) seeing you are in Florida.
Regards
Guy
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The whine that K bikes are famous for is probably from the gears that drive the output shaft of the engine combined with their anti-backlash spring.
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That makes sense... As, to me, it sounds exactly like a small block V8 with a geared timing set... AKA - sans chain..
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Now I'm running into a new yet weird issue. When I put in the throttle cable its short by like...half an inch or so. I was putting in a new cable so I thought i got the wrong cable. I compared it with my old cable and they're the exact size. Any insight on what is possibly my fault?
The throttle cable have been changed two times...first version have a adjustement sleeve ~halfway length,
second version have a black plastic collar at the lower end...third version have a white plastic collar.
All inner cables have different length and a different lower bracket.....which can't be mixed.