Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on February 29, 2020, 07:20:33 PM
There's a disconnected brake hose by the forks that needs to be fished out; the ABS is bypassed and I'll consider hooking it back up (probably not). The PO said he didn't touch the final drive so I'll get in there and renew the old grease. The handlebars are the original Black Sabbath-looking unit (straight attachment bar with 90º welded grab bars)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-290220185453.jpeg)
like these. I will probably go on a hunt for C bars at some point but I'll get some miles on it first.
The keys are a little problematic. There's an original BMW flip key and a spare. Both operate the seat lock, steering lock and fuel cap with ease, but it's a fight to get the ignition to turn. I have to wiggle the key and pull it partway out to get it to work. The ignition switch was installed 90º out, with '"off" lined up with the "on"position in the dashpad so I'm thinking it's probably not the original switch. I talked to our nearly-local BMW dealer and as told they can't get keys for it. SO at some point I'll drop by a locksmith in El Paso that can cut steel keys and see if they can make one from the switch. Or just live with it. I might also try taking the switch apart to get at the tumbler leafs.
It's got a Luftmeister exhaust on it. The PO included the original muffler so gonna reinstall that once the header pipes arrive. If I like the sound of the stock exhaust I'll post the Luftmeister up here for anyone interested.
So that gets us started. I'm currently laid up recovering from surgery on my right hand so not much will happen quickly. In the meantime, once I get cleared to flying status again I'll get the R1100RT out and blow the collywobbles outta my hair.
Post by: K1300S on February 29, 2020, 08:55:43 PM
it is an S....keep the S bars. they are much better than the non-S options.
i would try to get the ABS working. the system is good when it is.
i have done a couple of threads on K75S revivals..they are pinned at top of the classic section.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on February 29, 2020, 10:30:42 PM
ignition most likely installed correctly. it is oriented not for the metal key direction, but for the arrow on the folded over original"flip" plastic key end. it should be 90 out from the metal key.Thanks for the reply, good info. Tomorrow and Monday are travel days,Tuesday has a 70% chance of frozen precip so I'll be back at it then. I want to get the gas tank off to see 'what LIES beneath'. I can see where the PO cut wires to install the aftermarket fuel pump, and I found some grommets lying on top of the transmission case on the left side that are a mystery. I'll report more later.
it is an S....keep the S bars. they are much better than the non-S options.
i would try to get the ABS working. the system is good when it is.
i have done a couple of threads on K75S revivals..they are pinned at top of the classic section.
Post by: caveman on March 01, 2020, 05:25:50 AM
I've got two 75s one with s bars and one with c bars on 2" bar backs. The s bars are great for shorter trips and mountain road riding but the other set up is much better for touring IMO.
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2020, 06:10:16 AM
it's a fight to get the ignition to turn. I have to wiggle the key and pull it partway out to get it to work. The ignition switch was installed 90º out, with '"off" lined up with the "on"position in the dashpad . . .Spray some silicone on the key blade. Insert it into the lock. Fold down the key when starting then turn it firmly. Cleaning the ignition switch of neglected motos is always good practice but disassembly must be done patiently.ignition most likely installed correctly. it is oriented not for the metal key direction, but for the arrow on the folded over original"flip" plastic key end. it should be 90 out from the metal key.
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2020, 08:15:49 AM
The handlebars are the original Black Sabbath-looking unit (straight attachment bar with 90º welded grab bars) like these.That bar is upside down in the photo. Right side up it isn't evocative of any Sabbath to me. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: K1300S on March 01, 2020, 11:47:28 AM
"it is an S....keep the S bars. they are much better than the non-S options."
I've got two 75s one with s bars and one with c bars on 2" bar backs. The s bars are great for shorter trips and mountain road riding but the other set up is much better for touring IMO.
everybody is different. S bars in the proper "master yoda" low angle position are perfect for all day riding for me. i can't stand the upright position of C bars or barbacks for any length of time.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 01, 2020, 12:08:25 PM
I'll look into patient disassembly of the ignition switch for a good internal cleaning, can't be much harder than the Honda and Yammy switches I've taken apart.
Onward. Had a little time this morning to remove the fairing bits and the gas tank. Prior to arrival of the bike, the PO sent videos of cold starts of the engine in 60º and 40º temps in which it fired right up with full choke, then none. It idled very nicely on the chilly South Florida coast.
Fast-forward to startup at 9000 chilly NM feet above sea level: fired right up after three weeks' hiatus, but stumbles at first chokeposition and dies quickly with the choke off. I did a quick sync with the Motion Pro but they weren't very far off. However, when the left side fairing came off I discovered this:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-020320085826.jpeg)
Left (return) hose is bent 90º. Hmm. Manual says it's a return hose. So it seems the proper routing is between the frame and radiator hose, under the fairing bracket. Clymers' pic is not helpful so I'll have to get it sorted once new hoses eventually arrive.
That's all for today, travelling here shortly. Good weekend to all, Happy Bricking (unless you gave it up for Lent, in which case: dayum)
Post by: volador on March 01, 2020, 12:43:12 PM
A great thing, forums...
Pic rotated but lower hose is bent 90º. Hmm. Manual says it's a return hose. So it seems the proper routing is between the frame and radiator hose, under the fairing bracket. Clymers' pic is not helpful so I'll have to get it sorted once new hoses eventually arrive.
That's all for today, travelling here shortly. Good weekend to all, Happy Bricking (unless you gave it up for Lent, in which case: dayum)
Yes they certainly are
OE hose has a 90º bend to prevent that 13 31 1 461 011 HOSE 0.09 1 $33.82
otherwise it's all in the routing of the aftermarket hose connecting to the top of fuel pressure regulator
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2020, 02:10:30 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-010320140008.jpeg)
Here's where it couples.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-010320140232.png)
Post by: Martin on March 01, 2020, 03:59:02 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: stokester on March 01, 2020, 04:55:14 PM
everybody is different. S bars in the proper "master yoda" low angle position are perfect for all day riding for me. i can't stand the upright position of C bars or barbacks for any length of time.112350
Post by: K1300S on March 01, 2020, 06:17:37 PM
Yes they certainly are
OE hose has a 90º bend to prevent that 13 31 1 461 011 HOSE 0.09 1 $33.82
otherwise it's all in the routing of the aftermarket hose connecting to the top of fuel pressure regulator
Yep. This is one of the places where the right answer is to use the factory part, not just plain hose. Factory part has two molded in bends that prevent the hose from collapsing.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 09:09:13 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-020320090127.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2020, 09:48:53 AM
Another pic of the wonked-up hose:It's all clear to me now.
Thanks for the translation, too. It seems a more effective Hispanic promotional name than naming an automobile Nova. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 02, 2020, 09:51:38 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 12:25:04 PM
Dang!!! I lived there for 2 years and never knew what El Paso meant. Ya learn something new every day!I’m here to help.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 12:27:54 PM
Post by: volador on March 02, 2020, 01:42:21 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 07:51:57 PM
That beauty looks like it don't need muchThe light's not great, you've had a few too many, getting close to closing time, beer goggles on... :laughing4-giggles:
She's just been neglected but not horribly. Just needs someone (me) to put some attention time in. The ugliest things I've found so far aren't bad at all - the bent-almost-closed fuel line, the damaged paint on the right fairing from brake fluid spillage, like that. Lots of dated rubber that will get replaced. I'm happy with her! :alien
Post by: billday on March 02, 2020, 07:59:51 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 08:00:51 PM
Keep 'em? Chuck 'em? Ride it first? Not sure if just moving the bars up and not also back will do much, except avoid smashed fingers.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 02, 2020, 08:03:52 PM
That color kicks butt.Thanks billday. BTW, if you live on Florida's Lost Coast, were born 1/2/53 and own a specialty shoe store, then you're my older brother and have been lying to me about liking motorcycles our whole life!! :rideaway
Post by: billday on March 03, 2020, 07:47:32 AM
Thanks billday. BTW, if you live on Florida's Lost Coast, were born 1/2/53 and own a specialty shoe store, then you're my older brother and have been lying to me about liking motorcycles our whole life!! :rideaway
That ain't me, babe.
Post by: natalena on March 03, 2020, 11:30:36 AM
Keep 'em? Chuck 'em? Ride it first? Not sure if just moving the bars up and not also back will do much, except avoid smashed fingers.
Everyone's weird in their own unique way, I'd ride it before spending coin, it may be perfect as is.
I went for the SW Motech (an up and back bracket) with the stock bars. It's works fine for now, but a new brake line with 1" more length are in order ... if I do that, I might as well change to BEP, grind the loop off, knock the front fender off, and make the brick a custom Millenial Brat Street Fighter Naked SCUD Trackster. ;)
* there should be a prize for "most tweaked fuel line", you'd be a serious contender.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 03, 2020, 12:21:15 PM
... if I do that, I might as well change to BEP, grind the loop off, knock the front fender off, and make the brick a custom Millenial Brat Street Fighter Naked SCUD Trackster. ;)Adjective King right there, my 4th grade teacher, Sister John Terrance, would be proud! :laughing4-giggles:
Got the ignition/key issue sorted. Through tedious and highly technical troubleshooting techniques here-to-fore unknown on this forum, I found that the key wasn't fully seated due to crud built up in the bottom end of the tumbler mechanism. A clean-out with brake cleaner followed by a mild lube with silicone spray (thanks Laitch 112350) and both keys go all the way in and turn with the proper detent clicks. Moving on.
The bent fuel hose in the above pics is, in fact, the original BMW item with a date of 9/92 on it. The PO just routed it incorrectly. New lines on order.
I'm installing heated grips; switch is installed in the dash pad, time to locate the receiving plug. Got fresh coffee, snow pounding down under a winter storm warning, let me see what else I can tear up.
:laitch
Post by: alabrew on March 03, 2020, 06:21:08 PM
Do you have the high altitude plug installed?
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 03, 2020, 07:15:18 PM
Do you have the high altitude plug installed?It arrived a few days ago but I'd already removed the tank and battery so haven't run it with it installed. I did jumper the receptacle but didn't notice any difference, I'm hoping because of the kinked return line. Lots to do before I get back to it, including mounting the OEM exhaust when the header pipes arrive.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 04, 2020, 06:59:00 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-040320185610.jpeg)
Post by: billday on March 04, 2020, 08:43:52 PM
Gonna replace the clamps with reusable types. The inside diameter is 40mm, that should be a close fit, yes?
McMaster-Carr.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 04, 2020, 10:27:26 PM
:idunno:
Post by: Martin on March 04, 2020, 10:42:01 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: volador on March 04, 2020, 11:28:03 PM
Gonna replace the clamps with reusable types. The inside diameter is 40mm, that should be a close fit, yes?
48mm Suzuki band clamp 09402-48208 for TB->bushings and bushings->air plenum connections
also mentioned are 46mm 09402-46208
Post by: volador on March 04, 2020, 11:38:56 PM
The infamous loosening gearbox grub screw. Refrain from riding it until it's tightened, as you can be unable to select gears. Gryph should chime in on the joys of remedying it.Don't know Gryph's story but this one deserves a grub screw nomination. LMAO every time
Regards Martin.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12520.msg110916.html#msg110916 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12520.msg110916.html#msg110916)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 04, 2020, 11:55:52 PM
The infamous loosening gearbox grub screw. Refrain from riding it until it's tightened, as you can be unable to select gears. Gryph should chime in on the joys of remedying it.
Regards Martin.
Yup, your grub screw is getting loose. It's a good reason to to do a complete driveline lube and clutch service. It's about a two-three day job, but gets a lot of otherwise time consuming jobs out of the way in one fell swoop.
Here's a list of things you can do along with that damn screw to make the job really worthwhile:
-Lube final drive and driveshaft splines
-Replace rear brake pads
-Service the starter brushes
-Service the alternator monkey nutz.
-Replace the rear main seal
-Replace the clutch o-ring
-Lube the clutch splines
-Check the clutch
-Clean and service the gear position switch
-Lube the swing arm bearings
-Clean and lube the center and side stands
-Service the clutch pushrod and drive shaft boots
-Service the clutch arm and cable
-Clean, anti-seize and torque everything from the engine back
-Service or replace the rear master cylinder and brake lines
-and a good inspection and detailing of the rear half of the bike.
These are all jobs that are very easy to do when the rear of the bike is disassembled and the transmission removed. Get all those jobs out of the way now and except for the drive shaft splines, you won't have to screw around in there for at least 4-5 years.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 05, 2020, 01:33:45 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 10:21:19 AM
In both my 75s acquisitions with bar backs the leads for the hazard flasher switch were discovered to be in tension and systematically tugging at the terminals with every bump.On bike #1 hazards were bump activated until I soldered in a three inch extension to those leads. On my current bike a 94,I have to push in to get the hazards to activate- maybe that’s a Deoxit switch issue instead? Anyway, like with brake lines you might want to lengthen the wiring harness to the switches on the impact plate.
Not knowing the term “impact plate” (and Laitch everywhere and ready to pounce😬😜)—I looked it up on the MAX fiche to discover two part numbers,but only one impact plate image. Curious. It must be the earlier version...My 94 has “wings” with slots for zip ties to attach to the bars. One is torn (bar backs render the mount points useless without a custom adapter in a Z shape)—so I cut the ties for repair, maybe with Gorilla Glue. It can be messy, but when it expands it pushes in to fill voids in the foam for a very solid bond. Lots of practice on R\C aircraft😉. Mlytle suggested something else - black auto interior cement maybe? I’ve hijacked your post Bon Jovi! Get well soon. And yes that is a lovely red 🧱. Again, congrats, a great find. I cant help but gulp at how long your resto list is growing. Stay at it, you will be amply rewarded with a jewel like Motobrick.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 05, 2020, 10:50:31 AM
Again, congrats, a great find. I cant help but gulp at how long your resto list is growing. Stay at it, you will be amply rewarded with a jewel like Motobrick.As long as the wife of 35 years come March 9th keeps getting real 'jewels' I am clear to proceed. Giving her this one on Monday, doesn't look greasy in the pic but sure will help grease my wheels!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-050320104806.jpeg)
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 11:38:07 AM
Congrats, one woman 35 years is a rare feat today.
The way you multiply motors like bunnies its even more impressive.
We discu$$ed her knee replacement co-pay this am...does that count? I’ll be the next to buy jewelry I spose.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 05, 2020, 12:34:47 PM
The way you multiply motors like bunnies its even more impressive.:motopopo :motopopo :motopopo :motopopo :motopopo :motopopo
Only six at the present, that's not a lot. I'm SURE others on this site have more than that. MBS still beats MWS I wreckin' :yar
Post by: Martin on March 05, 2020, 02:25:21 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2020, 03:14:11 PM
As long as the wife of 35 years come March 9th keeps getting real 'jewels' I am clear to proceed. Giving her this one on Monday, doesn't look greasy in the pic but sure will help grease my wheels!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-050320104806.jpeg)
don't be posting pics like that!!! if my wife of 36 years sees it, it is going to cost me!!!
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 05, 2020, 11:52:44 PM
Got the rear wheel off in prep for the driveline disassembly and found this:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-050320233641.jpeg)
Yep, three o' them. It's got a Battlax BT-45R, 140/80-17 mounted, that why? Bolts didn't release cleanly when I loosened them.
Oh, and does the 'R' mean it's a radial? Not much info about this tire on the Algorenet.
Post by: volador on March 06, 2020, 02:46:49 AM
Is the rear rim stamped Type A or Type B?
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 03:56:57 AM
Yep, three o' them.Extra spacers are likely either the result of some ersatz theoretician's attempt at wheel alignment, or the result of negligence. A 140 shouldn't be rubbing the swingarm with just one spacer installed, but maybe it was too close for comfort.
It's got a Battlax BT-45R, 140/80-17 mounted . . .
. . . does the 'R' mean it's a radial? Not much info about this tire on the Algorenet.
Apparently the news that manufacturers identify radial tires with an R preceding the tire's rim width in the size identification line on the sidewall has not yet reached the Land of Enchantment. I'm honored to be the messenger.
4265249878
The BT-45 is a bias-ply tire. There's plenty of information on the Goreweb for that one.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 06, 2020, 08:59:15 AM
Apparently the news that manufacturers identify radial tires with an R preceding the tire's rim width in the size identification line on the sidewall has not yet reached the Land of Enchantment. I'm honored to be the messenger.Thanks, always appreciate the info.
I'll take a closer look at the shims for I.D. marks but didn't notice any on cursing inspection last night. Full day today with doctor's visits and what-not but maybe this evening I can look.
Some parts coming today now that the 14" of snow we got Wednesday has been cleared away: stock exhaust header and I-22 for sure.
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 09:45:36 AM
Thanks, always appreciate the info.Break out your vernier calipers or micrometer. They're probably all the same because no other size seems to have been offered in the fiche. It's easy enough to determine if one is enough.
I'll take a closer look at the shims for I.D. marks . . .
Maybe the previous owner was trying to shim the wheel until the moto coasted straight without hands on the steering, not realizing that stomach and bowel contents position coupled with side case loads were really governing everything.
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 10:51:00 AM
Emeralds are nice. I’ll be the next to buy jewelry I spose.It's a challenge to make facets on Shoo Goo as well as can be done on an emerald but it goes with just about all ensembles. 112350RC see if you can get a tube of black Shoo Goo. It's well up to the job . . .
Post by: volador on March 06, 2020, 12:27:16 PM
36 31 2 312 920 SHIM - 3MM
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 12:49:26 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 11:39:24 AM
Now to go take some pics of the violated Brick...
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 07:31:55 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320192011.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320192143.jpeg)
Ignore the Camaro Green GL1000 lurking in the background!
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 07:43:24 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190651-28062442.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190658-28081495.jpeg)
Bought a small jack to use on the lift, and the handle was just the thing to pop off the stubborn pressure plate. Just took a small amount of leaverage in the right place!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190653-2806826.jpeg)
Couldn't really tell till I cleaned this up:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320194108.jpeg)
Chewed up and enough lateral play so I'm replacing it.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 08:06:08 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190706-2809303.jpeg)
The in-famous pilot shaft bushing in its unmolested position:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190709-28102324.jpeg)
Awaiting munkee nutz and starter o-rings:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190727-28131618.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 08:43:38 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190728-28131238.jpeg)
Yar, the wünderbar grub screw. It was maybe a full turn loose.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190735-2815729.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190736-28151545.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 08:48:30 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190736-28151545.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190746-28179.jpeg)
Actually able to get my sissy little girl fingers in there:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190756-2820381.jpeg)
Done. I did wipe off the excess Loctite.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190751-281977.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 09:08:51 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190756-2820672.jpeg)
Good thing I ordered a new switch assembly since it was cracked. It disintegrated when I unscrewed it:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190810-28231792.jpeg)
So all in all a lot accomplished today, even if no riding was involved.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 09:11:37 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190611-28012118.jpeg)
I'll post another when they're clean and ready to install. They're in pretty good shape, with a slight narrowing taper as you move front to rear.
Final drive splines in very nice shape:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-070320190606-2800252.jpeg)
Post by: Martin on March 07, 2020, 09:31:43 PM
I just pulled mine for a bit of maintenance clean and lube and the 20 year old Plasti Dip waterproofing was still fine.
Regards Martin
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 07, 2020, 10:12:16 PM
Did you change the o-ring on the output shaft? I guarantee it's dried out and is going to leak one of these days, and if you have even a tiny bit of bad karma, that oil is going straight for the clutch friction disc.
On the gear position switch, chip out all of the old broken up potting compound, be fussy and get every little bit out, then wash well with brake cleaner.
After it's good and dry, mix up enough epoxy(don't use the quick stuff, you want it to flow into all the spaces) to fill the end where the potting was. Work the epoxy into all the nooks and under the wires with a toothpick. Be careful not to get a lot of air bubbles.Let it sit until it's fully cured. Tip: Clamp the switch body in vise grips to keep it from flopping around while you fill with epoxy.
After the epoxy has fully cured, take the switch apart(carefully! there's some small springs and other easily lost stuff that wants to escape). Clean all the metal surfaces and bits in a rubbing alcohol soak, dry for a day and shoot everything with Deoxit. Then you can put it all back together.
When you install the gear position switch use allen screws. They are a lot easier to turn than the hex heads that are there now. A new gasket will help keep the crap out.
Post by: billday on March 08, 2020, 01:43:31 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 08, 2020, 03:24:08 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-080320151930.jpeg)
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 08, 2020, 10:37:44 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 08, 2020, 11:15:33 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-080320231158.jpeg)
Titanium: it does a body good!
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 09, 2020, 11:44:19 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-090320233446-2832306.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-090320233421-2830358.jpeg)
Yup, that's a screw top to a quart oil bottle, filled with epoxy. We'll see how it works.
Was the plastic collar supposed to come out with these? I bet that's where the o-ring goes...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-090320233437-28312402.jpeg)
New friction plate came, along with new coolant hoses and clamps, new clutch release boot, new seals for the starter, new munkie nutz for the alternator. All installed except the friction plate, waiting on the jeezuss nut that holds the clutch housing on. Spieglers should be here tomorrow.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 10, 2020, 08:44:41 AM
Is that injector cap still in the head? They aren't supposed to come off like that. There is a plastic ring that goes above the o-ring. Do you have it?
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 10, 2020, 09:47:14 PM
Looks nice with that cap. Were you able to get all the bubbles out of the epoxy around the wires? How much does the cap add to the height of the switch? As I recall, there isn't a lot of room between the switch and the swingarm.
Is that injector cap still in the head? They aren't supposed to come off like that. There is a plastic ring that goes above the o-ring. Do you have it?
The epoxy I used came from another project and mixes up nicely, no bubbles and flowed well into all the spaces. Clearance-wise, there appears to be enough, as I temp-installed the swingarm to see how deep the pivot pin goes in. I'm thinking the PO neglected to heat the pin up when he removed it and bollocksed up the threads where the lock nut rides. It jams right where it needs to lock the pin so gonna make it tres dificíle to get an accurate torque on it. Merde.
So yeah, all the injector caps stayed in the head. I'm conflicted on doing anything about it at the present.
Here's the epoxy I used for the switch:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-100320214402.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 10, 2020, 10:24:17 PM
I dug them out and replaced all of them with new ones. Now everything goes together easily.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 10, 2020, 10:59:33 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 14, 2020, 04:24:52 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 16, 2020, 01:27:54 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011547-2855553.jpeg)
Don't know if it will stay but noted the install date:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011512-28531336.jpeg)
Clutch installed and bolts torqued:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011542-2854678.jpeg)
Shaft lubed with Staburags, ready to mount:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011619-2856295.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 16, 2020, 01:39:30 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011708-28581176.jpeg)
New clutch arm boot, alternator and starter installed, clutch cable and actuating arm adjusted, battery tray snafu:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011706-2857852.jpeg)
Left footpeg plate, battery tray snafu unsnafued, coil cover, ABS blitzenmöter installed:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011757-28591068.jpeg)
Right ABS blitzenmöter , center and side stands installed:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-160320011800-28601585.jpeg)
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 16, 2020, 06:25:22 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 11:42:03 AM
Final drive installed
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-170320113531-2861897.jpeg)
Rear shock. Guess I should look for something newer to support my whopping 155 lbs:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-170320113614-2864279.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 01:16:22 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-170320131025-28651466.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-170320131159-2866446.jpeg)
I recall now the PO replaced this as part of the resurrection he did to get it running. At least it's BMW?
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 01:37:24 PM
Post by: Martin on March 17, 2020, 02:08:19 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 02:13:03 PM
112350
Post by: Martin on March 17, 2020, 02:26:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 17, 2020, 05:28:58 PM
I cut the tang off of mine and used a black cable tie to secure the boot. 12 or 13mm, I don't know what I have, all I know is they're gold colored and can trigger the ABS on dry pavement if I really lay into the pedal.
For $11-12 they are a steal.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 08:09:05 PM
Not much progress otherwise today, but tons of aggravation. I went back to the injectors to try and get the plastic caps out of the head but they're gutenshtück. If I booger them up can they be had in the marketplace? EME no gots, but I spose I could buy some ebay injectors to get the caps.
Worked on the wiring and hose routing on the right side under the coolant tank and by the footpeg plate. AND discovered one of the SPiegler hoses is about 3" too long.
:laitch
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 17, 2020, 08:15:30 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 08:24:27 PM
There are some remanufacturers if injectors. Also a guy people goto for sorting ABS modules. I have some extra injectors but they are unknowns from an acquisition- price is right too..Just wanting to know what I’m facing coz I’m pretty darn sure those caps are gonna not be reusable once I did them out. I’m probably gonna just wait till I get to ride the thing before tackling this issue.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 17, 2020, 08:55:26 PM
I just did the injectors on my 1988 K100RS.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 09:00:21 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1996-Ford-F250-7-5L-460-Bosch-EV1-Fuel-Injector-Rebuild-Repair-O-ring-Kit/312588994227?hash=item48c7c186b3:g:QNIAAOSw~oFXFpczThanks for the link, I’m on it.
I just did the injectors on my 1988 K100RS.
Post by: Martin on March 17, 2020, 09:07:08 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: johnny on March 17, 2020, 09:09:48 PM
16 each... f-that... i can getts 5 gallon for that...
[ Invalid Attachment ]
j o
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 17, 2020, 11:08:29 PM
Injector caps (pintles, who knew?) on order so I can get to boogering up the old ones now. Something to do tomorrow while it rains/snows. Yeehaw
:dk
Post by: volador on March 18, 2020, 01:50:04 AM
From what I read, the cheaper one [34 311 454 351] is for 16V/13mm bikes, while the high-dollar [34 311 458 142] version is for 8V/12mm bikes. Or it's a non-ABS/ABS I/ ABS II thing.the cheaper 34 311 454 351 13mm rear M/C was first introduced on the 1984 K100 later when 1986 K75 was introduced all was changed to 12mm
3 different rear M/C offered through EME with corresponding repair kits
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder351.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder351.htm)
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder867.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder867.htm)
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder142u.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmcylinder142u.htm)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 21, 2020, 09:08:51 PM
Spent most of today chasing a non-existent fuel pump issue as I didn't understand that it's not the same as the R1100RT, which spins the pump as soon as you move the kill switch to the run position. Decided to hit the start button and, omg, vroom-vroom-vroom.
:bmwspinn
Some pics:
Injectors reinstalled w/new o-rings:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-210320204129-28761509.jpeg)
Tie wraps cinched on, warrs and sech tucked away:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-210320204153-28771069.jpeg)
OEM exhaust installed after an appropriate amount of adjustin fussin n cussin:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-210320204235-2878168.jpeg)
My two pesos says BMW used a small skyhook to suspend the airbox, then built the bike around it :laitch (bet it goes together like a dream when the motor is sitting on a work bench). And the lack of space anywhere made it clear why they used those special-pliers-required minimalist clamps all over:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-210320204304-2880298.jpeg)
Now I'm waiting for the rest of the parts to rebuild the forks, which I shoulda ordered it all the first time instead of just the seals but didn't:
Be safe out there, never know when Johnnie might walk up and sneeze on you.
Post by: TommyT on March 22, 2020, 09:17:31 AM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on March 22, 2020, 10:18:55 AM
I have to ask am the only that can't see the pictures in this tread? Sounds like alot if good work that I can't see. I see do pictures in other threads.Photos are a funny thing on this website -- they will sometimes appear later or disappear spontaneously. Possibly it's a Quantum Thing. I also have challenges uploading photos to "my gallery" despite following the instructions, it seems that my category disappears between selecting and uploading. Not sure if that's why some of the OP's pics are visible and others aren't. From the ones that are visible, I am impressed with the quality of the work however, and it's an inspiration.
Post by: Laitch on March 22, 2020, 10:56:22 AM
I have to ask am the only that can't see the pictures in this tread?Check your computer settings. I'm viewing all of them on an out-of-date Mac.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 22, 2020, 12:51:04 PM
I also got the fuel line routed, turns out it was installed correctly, just wasn't pushed all the way on to the tank nipple, creating a bend that was causing a pinch in the line. Old:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-020320090127.jpeg)
New:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-220320123943-2881459.jpeg)
Now stop reading and go get your Brick on (those that have rideable Bricks 177381)
:k75s :motopopo
Weird, the 2nd pic took three tries before it would show on the preview. SPRING WHACKNESS!! :alien
Post by: Martin on March 22, 2020, 02:20:51 PM
Regards Martin.
Unicoil 1.jpg (4.78 kB . 140x105 - viewed 534 times)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 22, 2020, 03:23:27 PM
I tried to order the fuel return line to the tank from the FPR but was told a 6 week wait from Germany.Yeah, EME told me it could be awhile on the bump stops I ordered for the Instrument cluster, same reason: coming from the Land of Deutsche.
Regards Martin.
Post by: TommyT on March 23, 2020, 07:54:35 AM
Check your computer settings. I'm viewing all of them on an out-of-date Mac.I am using a tablet and Chrome browser. Don't see any setting that would seem to help. I can see Martin's picture in the latest post he did, but not Bon's new post. Go figure....I will just use my imagination!
Post by: natalena on March 23, 2020, 08:17:30 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 23, 2020, 11:21:33 AM
I am using a tablet and Chrome browser. Don't see any setting that would seem to help. I can see Martin's picture in the latest post he did, but not Bon's new post. Go figure....I will just use my imagination!I fought with this yesterday and got them all to be visible again, but as of now they're MIA. While I realize partly-nude Bricks may be considered porn by some of us, I don't think that's the issue. And I'm using the same posting procedure I've been using. Time for a webmeister to step in and see what's seeped into the site. I also got a new notification on a watched topic this morning that dates back to February. Whack.
Post by: Laitch on March 23, 2020, 01:10:22 PM
I am using a tablet and Chrome browser. Don't see any setting that would seem to help. I can see Martin's picture in the latest post he did, but not Bon's new post.If something had seeped into the site, it would most likely be affecting all of us. What is more likely is local ISPs are having intermittent trouble with capacity because more people are using their computers for work and shopping for necessities. I'm in a mountainous area with a DSL service that usually provides a reliable low upload and download speed but right now it's stalling occasionally. I'm still able to receive updated threads with photos but sometimes the service stalls and I need to take a second or third run at access by reloading the site. Other ISPs also might be intermittently congested and that causes stalling of access to information or late delivery. It's all part of Armageddon. Embrace it. :laughing4-giggles:I fought with this yesterday and got them all to be visible again, but as of now they're MIA. I'm using the same posting procedure I've been using. Time for a webmeister to step in and see what's seeped into the site. I also got a new notification on a watched topic this morning that dates back to February. Whack
If they haven't already, members should go to their Profile tabs then click on Notifications in the left column to choose whether to be notified of news or announcements. They also should check the Look and Layout section and identify which features they might want to obtain or exclude
El Comandante is likely already aware of security breaches, bug incursions and aberrant site behavior, or will be after reading this thread.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 23, 2020, 01:22:30 PM
If something had seeped into the site, it would most likely be affecting all of us. What is more likely is local ISPs are having intermittent trouble with capacity because more people are using their computers for work and shopping for necessities. I'm in a mountainous area with a DSL service that usually provides a reliable low upload and download speed but right now it's stalling occasionally. I'm still able to receive updated threads with photos but sometimes the service stalls and I need to take a second or third run at access by reloading the site. Other ISPs also might be intermittently congested and that causes stalling of access to information or late delivery. It's all part of Armageddon. Embrace it. :laughing4-giggles:Ah yes. I also live in a mountainous area with low-rate DSL and have similar issues, especially with four people streaming on multiple devices. And most everyone we know is working from home so bang goes the bandwidth. Only had 15 mb/s download and 1 mb/s upload RATED speeds anyway, which usually equates to 7 down and 0.3 up in practice.
If they haven't already, members should go to their Profile tabs then click on Notifications in the left column to choose whether to be notified of news or announcements. They also should check the Look and Layout section and identify which features they might want to obtain or exclude
El Comandante is likely already aware of security breaches, bug incursions and aberrant site behavior, or will be after reading this thread.
Armageddon: embraced! :rideaway
Post by: TommyT on March 25, 2020, 08:59:34 AM
I am using a tablet and Chrome browser. Don't see any setting that would seem to help. I can see Martin's picture in the latest post he did, but not Bon's new post. Go figure....I will just use my imagination!I found out what was wrong, I looked at the html code for the page and found the adress for one of the images. I pasted that link into and new browser tab and got a access denial message. So since I stay log in to the site I logged out and back in to the site and now I see the pictures. Not sure this some site problem or it is working as designed and requires regular sign in to see pictures.
Post by: TommyT on March 25, 2020, 09:03:24 AM
Post by: Laitch on March 25, 2020, 11:31:10 AM
now I can't see only the pics from Bon Jon Bovi again but I can see other post pics in this thread, even though I logged in again. Whack I guess.It seems like whack on your side, Tommy. Maybe you should consult a computer specialist. Consider consulting with your neighbors to determine if they're experiencing some whack, too.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 05, 2020, 06:54:12 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-050420185101-2952261.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 05, 2020, 07:03:12 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 05, 2020, 07:06:20 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 05, 2020, 07:12:23 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 05, 2020, 07:19:07 PM
Post by: herseyb on April 05, 2020, 08:46:24 PM
Post by: daveson on April 06, 2020, 12:02:58 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 06, 2020, 12:30:56 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-060420002829-29541963.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-060420002826-29531820.jpeg)
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 01:17:07 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 06, 2020, 01:25:27 AM
If you want to avoid future grief I'd be replacing the individual connectors with a good quality waterproof connector.I am in the hunt as we speak for just such connectors. 112350
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on April 06, 2020, 01:56:56 AM
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 02:11:26 AM
Regards Martin
Post by: volador on April 06, 2020, 02:37:57 AM
The 'C' clips which our downunder mate is referring to are located at petrol tank rear, hold the tank in place, clip around tank mounting pins which slide into frame grommets. Some omit those 'C' clips on belief that during an accident the tank mounting pins will be ripped free of the tank and commence to a sliding fireball.
The Gryphoon debunked that myth.
The pin youre pointing to is reversed, normally found on battery cover end. Someone did a nice job of mounting a bolt to the tail cowl and you must have a hole in battery cover where pin broke off.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5332-060420024207-29552165.jpeg)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 06, 2020, 02:45:48 AM
As for Martin's admonition about securing the tank, I put new rubbers in but cannot get the tank pins to go in far enough to get the clips installed. I live 5 miles from pavement up a rocky canyon road so lots of bouncing and bumping before I get to blacktop, not to mention the eventual return trip. Guess I better figure out how to get them darn clips installed.
Volador, thanks for the heads-up, did not occur to me that some bright boy rigged this up like that. My side covers have the pins as normal, so I'll see about removing those aftermarket stingers tomorrow. Thanks all, stay healthy out there.
Post by: volador on April 06, 2020, 03:00:04 AM
Davison, you are correct about the stingers on the tank. I am pointing at the stinger on a replacement tail piece I bought to replace the one I bodged through carelessness; the original S version has no stingers.
the grog is wearing off I understand now
your replacement tail section looks to be from a K1100 which has those posts/stingers normally that youre pointing to
good time to think about installing a Headlight relay
stuff if you chose to add one
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4962.msg30932.html
http://culayer.com/product/matchbox-headlight-relay/
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
Eastern Beaver site is a great reference for electrical connectors,plugs, etc...
I used the Sumitomo DL 090 for replacement 4-pin connector with extra pins and seals ordered
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 03:09:28 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: volador on April 06, 2020, 03:20:06 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 06, 2020, 12:18:58 PM
Correct again, the replacement tail piece is from a K1100RS. Being new to all things Beemer I was mainly ensuring the color was correct and didn’t see the stingers for the side covers. Or that it wasn’t drilled for the ABS computer bracket. Bolted right up however.
I'll hold off on the headlight relay. I've spent the last four, almost five months working on bikes and not riding. Time to ride.
:bmwspinn
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 04:39:36 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 04:58:14 PM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 06, 2020, 05:26:12 PM
Post by: Martin on April 06, 2020, 05:37:41 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 06, 2020, 08:35:53 PM
They not only make it easy to pull them off and keep from losing them, but the cable ties make good handles to make installing the clips, especially on the tank and the rear hinge on the seat, a lot easier.
Post by: daveson on April 06, 2020, 09:08:06 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 06, 2020, 09:31:17 PM
Now I'm going to sort the wheat from the chaff and go straight to the crux of the matter, those cable ties, what colour are they?
What do you think???
...it's the little things you gotta watch.
Post by: daveson on April 06, 2020, 09:34:12 PM
cause then you should be stretched out on a rack.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 17, 2020, 04:55:44 PM
The ride was pretty good, even with older Battlax’s on it. The 5 wt in the forks seems to be what it needs, and the stock rear shock rode well with my 175-ish lbs riding weight. Bike went where I pointed it, no head shakes, no wobbles, no notchiness.
On to the issues. The bike is VERY hard to start when it’s warm. I have to open the throttle about halfway, return to idle and eventually coughs and starts. Once running it settles to a decent 900-1000 rpm. And it may or may not be sluggish below 2500 rpm. Too new to me to know. About 3000 rpm it accelerates impressively.
The front master cylinder is spewing from somewhere. I replaced the cap but suspect a hairline crack that I can’t discover. I’ve got a new reservoir, baffle, and o-ring in my Max cart but I’ll take this one apart before ordering. The bike did have a run-in with my lift and subsequently the concrete a few weeks back, may be something cracked in the mount.
I reconnected the ABS I in the hopes of getting it operable, but so far no soap. And the symptoms keep changing. I could info dump here but I won’t till I look into it some more. I’m glad I just filled the tank since it’s gotta come off for troubleshooting and to keep the DOT 4 off it. Happy Spring all.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-170420161725-3008485.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-170420161727-30081051.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-170420161735-301087.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 17, 2020, 07:23:52 PM
Because of the MAF sensor, altitude doesn't really affect the fuel injection like a carbureted engine. I'm convinced the high altitude plug is just for the emission control.
Hard starting when hot may indicate an air leak. You might want to go back and check all the inlet connections and the breather z tube. Normally, a K bike starts at the first spark when it's hot. It shouldn't take more than one revolution of the crankshaft.
Have you read out the codes on the ABS? That will give you a pretty good idea of where to look when troubleshooting.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 17, 2020, 08:27:16 PM
I've been studying all the ABS stuff on the site and elsewhere basically since I got the bike. The code that was initially set on first check was "2", but it reset. Code "6" is the current code with numerous reset attempts of different times with different grounds. I pulled the ABS relay indicated by the code with no changes, swapped in another relay, same results. Now the ABS light won't blink but stays steady. As I said, lots of investigating in store.
I'll pull the tank so I can get eyes on the relay box, might be something amiss in there. Also a good sitdown with the schematics again this evening, see if maybe I left or pulled unplugged some connection somewhere.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 19, 2020, 08:01:25 PM
Unable to reset the "6" ABS code no matter how many times I try. It's for the ABS relay. I have two and both test okay. I have good continuity on the wires going from the control unit to the relay, the ABS switch works when used to make the ABS light go steady. I jumpered from pin 37 to 80 and when I do I have power at the ABS modulator plugs. The troubleshooting guide I downloaded is pointing to the ABS control unit.
Them's pricey, anyone got a spare for a loan program or outright sale? I'll pay shipping both ways if you want it back. Just need to verify my unit. 112350
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 19, 2020, 11:22:30 PM
Are you actually jumpering pins 30 and 87? I think those are the numbers for the relay's contacts.
Have you gone to Toshi's website for ABS brains?
http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/index.html
I seem to recall that he has posted the start up sequence of the system. It would be interesting to see if the brain is sending a test signal to the relay during startup. I would put a 12V test LED into the relay socket terminals for the relay coil(85 & 86) and see if it flashes when the bike is turned on and started.
A couple years ago, I had a problem with the ABS on a bike I bought throwing a brain fault code. No matter what I did it wouldn't reset. I think Toshi told me to unplug the brain and let it sit for a day or two and then try again. It corrected the problem and the ABS has worked properly ever since. He told me that he does this because people send him "bad" brains that are okay when they get to him in Japan. I suspect there is a capacitor in the unit someplace that needs to completely discharge to erase some faults.
I wonder if anybody else has had this happen to them.
Post by: volador on April 19, 2020, 11:38:10 PM
You have a link to your troubleshooting guide?
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 19, 2020, 11:45:25 PM
I've been to Toshi's site a few times already but will revisit. Right now I'm going to pop downstairs and remove the plug from the control unit and let it sit for a few days. Maybe that will do it. The circuit board inside looks pristine, no corrosion or loose solder that I could see.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 19, 2020, 11:47:01 PM
The ABS 1 diagnostic & testing guide has some different pin configurations for testing http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13450.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13450.0.html)The very one I was referencing, very useful I think. 112350
You have a link to your troubleshooting guide?
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 19, 2020, 11:51:58 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 22, 2020, 10:44:03 AM
I bought some Deoxit to use on the modulator connectors; Toshi says corrosion there may cause an unresettable ABS relay code, which is what I got. The battery is a fully-charged agm installed last June by the PO, but I'm going to swap in an extra that I have and try another reset.
We're off in a few on another fun-filled search for toilet paper and hand wipes. It's supposed to be made in this country still, but I reckon them aliens over in Roswell are abducting the stuff as it enters the state. Lots of reports of missing Wallyworld trucks going around... :thisplacewhack
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 22, 2020, 09:22:26 PM
I also swapped out the batteries and the ABS reset switch so multiple things done. There's no telling what actually worked. There might still be issues, as I'm not hearing the little chirps from the modulators that Toshi mentions. I can force them by jumping pins 30 and 87 at the relay receptacle, but don't hear them with everything in their normal running positions. I'll do a little more checking tonight but leave most of this till tomorrow. Anyway, progress :superhappy
Another win today, scored two 12-roll packs of toilet paper! :poo
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 22, 2020, 09:44:59 PM
Finally got the ABS error code to reset by using the mA setting of the multimeter as per Toshi's post.
I also cleaned the modulator plugs using contact cleaner from O'Reilly's while I wait for the DeoxIT to arrive in the mail; it caused the seals around the pins to swell but they are slowly shrinking back to size so no more of that stuff.
Great news on finally getting a reset!
Get rid of that contact cleaner. It has solvents that eat plastic and paint. If you use anything from the auto parts store make absolutely sure it is Electronics Cleaner and the label says "safe for plastics". CRC makes an Electronics Cleaner that I've used. It's safe, but only cleans off dirt and oil, it doesn't clean the connections like Deoxit.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 22, 2020, 09:49:26 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-220420214728-3073616.jpeg)
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 22, 2020, 09:54:33 PM
A lot of great images of Sir Stirling Moss this past week- just photobomb your mug in his place with the caption: Step aside Bricker Punk, ABS Master coming through”.
Progress! Bravo!
Ps: photo 2 is Moss in the - Cloudcroft Climb to Dizzying Altititude TP Hill Climb Run. And No that’s not a typo... Cheers.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 22, 2020, 10:21:39 PM
Ps: photo 2 is Moss in the - Cloudcroft Climb to Dizzying Altititude TP Hill Climb Run. And No that’s not a typo... Cheers.Invititational. You forgot Invititational. :nono2:
“Crumpets, invited too!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 22, 2020, 10:28:57 PM
Used this:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-220420214728-3073616.jpeg)
Wow, that's the stuff I use. Never had a problem.
Post by: volador on April 23, 2020, 05:12:10 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 23, 2020, 10:55:56 PM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 24, 2020, 11:24:48 AM
:threadjacked
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 05, 2020, 12:32:01 PM
Issue number 2nd is luggish throttle response until over 2000 revs, at which point the old gal takes off like I'd expect. I had found some vacuum leaks (loose clamps 4265249878) and fixed, TBs synced using the mixture screws. Removed the spark plugs; #2 was black with soot, 1 & 3 are not as clean as they should be but not really sooty. I found a sync procedure link here to the K100 site that has a way to check to see if someone has mucked about with the butterfly screws, but truthfully I haven't even looked at valve clearance or compression yet, so I'll start there. Avoided those since the bike only has 16k on it, and Chris Harris says he rarely if ever sees clearance out on 2-valve Bricks.
I couldn't find any guidance on initial setting of the mixture screws like the R1100RT has, although the K100 link suggested seating then one full turn out as a base setting. Doing that, #1 and 2 are within a quarter turn of each other, while #3 is at least half a turn farther out. TBs were removed and thoroughly cleaned while waiting for new plenum rubbers.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2020, 12:43:43 PM
Have you checked the throttle position switch, that may have some effect.
Throttle air screws are set to 1 1/2 to 2 turns from bottom. I set the last one that has the vacuum line for the pressure regulator for 1 1/2 and balance the others to it.
Did you have the injectors cleaned? If they are gummed up with old fuel, they might not work well at small throttle openings. If you haven't had them cleaned, get some Techron fuel system cleaner and run a half bottle through each of two tanks of no corn gas if you can find it. A little YeeHaa will help loosen things up.
Last, check the timing of the Hall sensors. It's unlikely to be off, but you never know. No need for a timing light. There is a cutout in the mounting plate that lines up with the case when they are in the right spot. The factory manual has a nice photo of how they should look.
Post by: Rcgreaves on May 05, 2020, 12:53:31 PM
Verify spark plugs- smaller number is a higher heat range.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 05, 2020, 01:06:08 PM
First, I think Chris Harris' comment on valves was regarding the 4 valve engines.Correct, sorry bout that. And no corn-less premium petrol round these parts, guess I'll try Techron. The injectors are 4-hole aftermarket units so don't know if they are gummy or not, but they looked pristine when I had them out.
Can't hear any clicking from the TPS, I'll have a look. And I'll pop the Halls sensors cover for a gander at that.
Clayton, bite me. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2020, 04:27:18 PM
Post by: Martin on May 05, 2020, 04:39:47 PM
Post by: volador on May 05, 2020, 05:36:25 PM
I'm not saying it's the problem, but the 4 hole injectors have orifices that are 1/2 the diameter of the single hole OEM injectors. That tells the pessimist in me that they are at least twice as likely to clog up. If the bike has been idle for a while, it's in desperate need of some run time with the Techron.
+1
Yo'all rubes must been daydreaming of the coeffiecient of MaryJoe's thighs during physics and chemistry class
What the fecking purpose of fuel filter?
Post by: Martin on May 05, 2020, 05:53:10 PM
Regards martin.
Post by: Rcgreaves on May 07, 2020, 09:23:17 AM
Correct, sorry bout that. And no corn-less premium petrol round these parts, guess I'll try Techron. The injectors are 4-hole aftermarket units so don't know if they are gummy or not, but they looked pristine when I had them out.
Can't hear any clicking from the TPS, I'll have a look. And I'll pop the Halls sensors cover for a gander at that.
Clayton, bite me. :laughing4-giggles:
No ethanol-free fuel in the high desert. Cain't breath, cain't brick. Sucks to be you. Like I says we'll just step back and observe. Four day weekend thanks to Covid19.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 11:14:43 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on May 07, 2020, 11:24:05 AM
Oh there's non-corn petrol available, just not the super bleifrei variety...
I guess Krautspeak ought to be expected. After all its a German machine. Here's my google search:
bleifrei. adjective. Benzin etc lead-free, unleaded. adverb. bleifrei fahren to use lead-free or unleaded petrol (Brit) or gas (US)
Bite me back atcha Day!
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 11:31:19 AM
I guess Krautspeak ought to be expected. After all its a German machine. Here's my google search:
bleifrei. adjective. Benzin etc lead-free, unleaded. adverb. bleifrei fahren to use lead-free or unleaded petrol (Brit) or gas (US)
Except for the addition of the word 'super' in front of that. Super we no gots here in No Cheemexico. :nono2:
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 11:44:19 AM
:popcorm
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 02:59:25 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520144801-3174181.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520144739-3173320.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520144629-31721085.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520144618-3171201.jpeg)
Is the bird nest standard, or the PO's attempt at an inlet filter? What about the wrap on the pump leads? It looks like the self-adhering orange neoprene stuff we used to wrap conduits on C130s. And the spigot with nothing attached?
Post by: volador on May 07, 2020, 03:54:21 PM
Probably have that black 'Scotch-brite' wrapped around the pump bottom inlet in lieu of OE sock strainer.
OE internal petrol hose is 8x13mm 16121180040
FYI- different 43mm sock strainers
Chicom version plugs into pump inlet. Martin can verify
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-070520170220-317729.jpeg)
OE has metal mounting collar 43MM sock strainer 16141341233
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-070520170201-31751513.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on May 07, 2020, 04:26:20 PM
The spigot/stub pipe you've pictured was part of an anti-cavitation strategy to protect 52mm fuel pumps and was used to allow air vapor to escape from the 52mm pump strainer basket into the vapor collector on the ceiling of the tank if fuel level was low. It was connected to a pipe molded into the basket. It was a case of over-building. Mine is disconnected with no problem but I don't allow fuel level in the tank to become drastically low.
Later model 43mm pumps use a fuel sock, as has been indicated.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-220219172759.png)
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 05:46:24 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 07, 2020, 05:57:19 PM
I guess I'm gonna take the damn thing apartGood plan. The perspective is so skewed I can't visualize location of the mounting platform for the pump holder. I should be interesting.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 07, 2020, 06:04:07 PM
Good plan. The perspective is so skewed I can't visualize location of the mounting platform for the pump holder. I should be interesting.You truly are. 112350
Post by: Laitch on May 07, 2020, 06:06:18 PM
You truly are. 112350I'm going to keep fishing for compliments. It's elevating my mood. 112350
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 07, 2020, 11:01:23 PM
As an aside, I only run the no corn at the start and end of the riding season now. In the fall, I run it to flush the corn out of the system before I put the bikes away for the winter. In the spring, I run a couple tanks with Techron or Seafoam to flush out any varnish that might have gotten in the injectors while the bikes were idle for the winter. The rest of the year I run regular 87. I can't see any difference in performance that justifies the extra 50 cents per gallon.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 08, 2020, 12:00:01 AM
Around here, no corn is normally 89 or 90 octane. Either one runs just fine in my bikes.Thanks for your insight, much appreciated.
As an aside, I only run the no corn at the start and end of the riding season now. In the fall, I run it to flush the corn out of the system before I put the bikes away for the winter. In the spring, I run a couple tanks with Techron or Seafoam to flush out any varnish that might have gotten in the injectors while the bikes were idle for the winter. The rest of the year I run regular 87. I can't see any difference in performance that justifies the extra 50 cents per gallon.
Emptied the tank by jumpering the fuel injection/pump relay pins. Got the pump out:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520235344-3178715.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-070520235346-31792067.jpeg)
Can't find an emoji that adequately covers this.
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2020, 12:18:55 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 08, 2020, 12:41:58 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-080520003717-3181750.jpeg)
And swollen, non-submersible fuel hoses:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/6807-080520003711-3180675.jpeg)
Some surface rust and what looks like charcoal bits sitting on the bottom, bits of disintegrating hose I imagine. The pump was not sitting in the holder and so it wouldn't pump all the gas out. Maybe a half gallon still in the tank.
Post by: volador on May 08, 2020, 02:02:40 AM
Got vinegar?
Post by: volador on May 08, 2020, 10:09:37 AM
OE 43mm VDO pump, plastic mounting ring & rubber vibration damper
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-080520093930-31861123.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-080520100241-3187945.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2020, 11:08:19 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 08, 2020, 11:38:46 AM
Soaking the tank in vinegar with repeated agitation has worked for members to remove the debris.
...and a light scrub with a red ScotchBrite pad will have the inside looking like new.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 08, 2020, 11:50:55 AM
We're making a lumber/chiropractor/grocery run today so cleaning vinegar was already on the list. It won't harm the level sending unit (gauge), will it? Or do I need to fashion something to block the mounting point off? Screws are pretty well boogered, looks like PO used blue Loctite to hold 'em in place.
I ordered what I need from EME in Denver, plus bits from MaxB. PO snipped the leads off the level indicator/gauge that go to the pump so I'll need to get some quality eye rings for those. Maybe riding by June? :idunno:
Maybe I just need to give all this wrenching stuff and go blow 18 gees on a brand-new F850GS... :rideaway
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2020, 11:57:32 AM
It won't harm the level sending unit (gauge), will it?No.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 08, 2020, 04:08:43 PM
As Laitch said, vinegar won't hurt the level sender, might even clean it up, just be gentle with it. There are some very fragile resistance wires in it. They're not cheap to replace. When the rest of the tank is clean, you can remove the sender and give it a soak and a very careful cleaning with a soft paint brush.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on May 08, 2020, 06:48:36 PM
Maybe I just need to give all this wrenching stuff and go blow 18 gees on a brand-new F850GS... :rideaway
I have a new (to me) F650 GS single and I've ridden it a bit while awaiting the parts for my K75. It's night and day. Although the F650 is intresting and fun in its own way, I would far prefer riding the K75. Except on "unimproved surfaces" that is.
Post by: Laitch on May 09, 2020, 08:41:56 AM
Maybe I just need to give all this wrenching stuff and go blow 18 gees on a brand-new F850GS... :rideawayA friend of mine bought one of those. It's a very competent moto on all surfaces but it does have engine vibration at highway speed that he found distracting. He sold it off then bought a 2014 R1200GS. He's happy with that all-around. It weighs about the same as the Brick. Maybe that's the way to go.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 12, 2020, 09:49:23 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 12, 2020, 05:34:24 PM
I'll need to source some submersible ring terminals to replace the Chinese clip. Anyone got a good suggestion?If replacement of fuel pump ring terminals were my task, I'd go to the hardware store and buy terminals that fit the posts then install them. The OEM terminals don't seem special to me. From the photos I've seen, they can corrode from chronic neglect. The environment inside the fuel tank of a well-used Brick is not one conducive to corrosion.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on May 12, 2020, 05:53:27 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on May 12, 2020, 07:01:12 PM
OK sorry :threadjacked back to your usual programming.