Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 04:22:51 PM
I bought my '85 K100 this past July. I was looking at a couple of different ones that were for sale. Went with this one because it was closer, and because the other one that was available close to me was an '83 and I thought I would be better off avoiding the first model year. Probably wrong thinking but that's what my thought process was in selecting this one. Here she is...
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Hmmm... the attachments are coming up as invalid for some reason. Will need to figure that out.
I've really been enjoying riding her. A few little things I've had to deal with so far...
The clutch cable broke on me about 2 miles from my house while I was getting gas. Just finished filling up and the lever end of the cable popped off as I squeezed in the clutch. Couldn't picture myself pushing her home, although someone somewhere said it isn't your bike until you push it home from somewhere. After a feeble attempt at reattaching the cable end (the barrel was gone) I decided to just push, put it in gear, start her up, and ride it home without stopping. Ordered a new cable and got it replaced. My first repair!
Was riding it one morning and heard this God awful screeching when I applied the rear brake. Turns out the rear caliper came loose! Bought some stainless steel replacement bolts for both front and rear and got it torqued back to where is should be.
Was on my way to work, first (7L?) fuel warning light had been on. Started hearing a clicking sound from around the tank. Thought it was the engine. drove a bit further. Suddenly started losing power... luckily it was right in front of a gas station so I rolled in. Filled up. Sound was gone. So I figured the 4L (or whatever it is) bulb was burnt out. Bought a set of LED replacement bulbs for everything in the cluster from someone on one of the forums. Turns out the fuel warning bulbs are yellow and red. So what I thought was the first warning light was probably actually the second and final warning light. I have yet to verify both bulbs work... haven't run the fuel down far enough but probably should so see if the yellow light ever comes on.
I have plans for the bike but want to ride it as much as I can before doing anything that will take it down for more than a day. I've jimmy rigged an LED tail light (that I really like!) to improve the very dim tail and brake light. I had to pull the bulb check relay and add some jumpers to get it to work. This light also one strobes when the brake is first applied. I'll post a video one of these days. I've also JUST put change the real wheel/tire to the 3 spoke 4.5x18" wheels and a 160/60 R18 tire. Love the look of it! Nice and grippy too. There's a story behind this that I'll share at some point and the story isn't over.
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Thanks it for now. That's for all the posts and info I've pulled from this site already!
Bob
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 04:31:24 PM
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In this pic I was trying on the 4.5x18" 3 spoke wheel... part of the wheel story I'll tell later :bmwsmile
Post by: johnny on October 06, 2019, 04:34:21 PM
that is a fine looking brick... dont let anybody tell you the gas cap is on backwards...
what is that sticking out the bung... some kinda new kind of gerbil apparatus...
is that a 1200 wheel...
j o
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:05:02 PM
greetings...
that is a fine looking brick... dont let anybody tell you the gas cap is on backwards...
what is that sticking out the bung... some kinda new kind of gerbil apparatus...
is that a 1200 wheel...
j o
Thanks, Johnny...
Not a gerbil... that's my new LED brake light! I'll be replacing the seat and rear cowl at some point, and the easiest and quickest way I saw to mount that light was to attach it to the existing brake light.
The wheel laying no the garage floor is from a 1200 (part of the long wheel story). Not sure where the wheel that's on there in the picture came off of. It's the 3 spoke 4.5x18. Got the tire wrangled on last night and I'm wanting to take her out for a spin! But need to get it balanced.
Post by: Laitch on October 06, 2019, 05:07:51 PM
Hmmm... the attachments are coming up as invalid for some reason. Will need to figure that out.Don't worry about the invalid tag. As I hope you have already figured out, the photos will get posted anyway and be seen.
Started hearing a clicking sound from around the tank.
The noise might have been return line check valve ball vibrating from air pressure when the fuel flow stopped.
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:12:05 PM
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:13:53 PM
Oh, I should add that I had read many posts about going to a larger tire. So in anticipation of center stand issues, I bought a center stand from a K1100 like everyone was talking about. To my disappointment, the 1100 center stand also hit the tire. I was in a hurry because I had to meet my brother for dinner so pushed the bike into the garage, leaned it against a pole, and dealt with it later. Ultimately I just removed the center stand and she sat on the kick stand last night. I read somewhere that I need the actual stand mount from the 1100 as well, while others have said you just need to trim the hell out of the left leg of the stand. comparing the old vs the other old I'm thinking the mount isn't the issue but I need to sort that out.
Thanks Laitch! Would that have been brought about by the low fuel level? It hasn't made that noise since that last fill and I've never had it that low in fuel since either.
Post by: johnny on October 06, 2019, 05:20:49 PM
your photos show oe snowflake wheels... why you wanna mess with other than oe wheels...
j o
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:26:43 PM
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Ended up putting it up on Craigslist. A guy from Vancouver, BC traded me a pistol for it. Swore this project was going to be different so went with a bike that I could actually ride. Then pick away at it over time, over the winter. I don't remember ever seeing a K bike before. Lot of the R boxer engines of course. So when I saw the K bike, I started looking at pictures and loved what people were doing with them. Loved what people weren't doing with them! It's just a cool looking bike!
Post by: Laitch on October 06, 2019, 05:27:37 PM
Thanks Laitch! Would that have been brought about by the low fuel level?That is indeed what I was implying; furthermore, that assembly can start rattling under any condition. Many riders have removed them when that happens. Maybe the previous owner already removed it and the buzz was from something else. Anyway, the later models didn't need a check valve to prevent fuel spill when the return line was disconnected. The return line extended to the tank's ceiling and returning fuel dropped into the tank from there.
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:30:59 PM
greetings...
your photos show oe snowflake wheels... why you wanna mess with other than oe wheels...
j o
I have tire envy whenever I see a bike with a bigger tire than mine. I'm justifying my decision to stray from OE by telling myself radial tires are going to be better than the old bias plys.
Post by: Laitch on October 06, 2019, 05:33:55 PM
This is my first bike, ever and I LOVE it! It's been so fun to ride! Look forward to those days when the suns out so I can ride it to work or ride it on the weekend. Those are getting fewer and farther in between unfortunately. OK, I lied... it's not the first bike I've ever owned. I had another project bike that I bought back in 2011.Have you had any riding instruction at all or do they just hand out motorcycle endorsements on operator licenses by request, like condoms to high school students?
Post by: johnny on October 06, 2019, 05:35:58 PM
why not go directly to car tiors if you want wide...
you can put radials on those oe snowflakes...
here is the tior thread... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5480.0.html)
j o
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 05:47:25 PM
Have you had any riding instruction at all or do they just hand out motorcycle endorsements on operator licenses by request, like condoms to high school students?
Ha ha... yes, I did. Took the safety/certification class a while back. I've played around on motorcycles before so I knew "how" to ride but didn't really know how to ride. It's been a fun experience. When I first got it I just rode around the neighborhood at night... under the cloak of darkness. Didn't have a helmet so didn't go but a few blocks. Once I got my helmet I ventured out a little further but it was scary going faster then 25mph! Felt like the bike was going to fly out from under me when I accelerated. I'm a bit more confident now but still a bit afraid of the freeway. I went through a phase where cornering to the left was way easier than to the right which developed into a mental block with going to the right... very strange. Happy to say I'm over that. I love riding it!
Post by: volador on October 06, 2019, 05:52:42 PM
Oh, I should add that I had read many posts about going to a larger tire. So in anticipation of center stand issues, I bought a center stand from a K1100 like everyone was talking about. To my disappointment, the 1100 center stand also hit the tire... comparing the old vs the other old I'm thinking the mount isn't the issue but I need to sort that out.
Sharp looking moto!
46522311150 Center stand supporting bracket is same used by K100 & K1100
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&diagram=46_0114&partnumber=46522311150
This thread may be of some use showing the added left leg mod needed
somewhere around page 3
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2713-wider-wheels-radial-tyres-on-a-k100
Good riding
Post by: volador on October 06, 2019, 06:07:01 PM
Notable differences of the pre-85/86 K100 are the seat pan design with matching tail cowl section, the water/oil pump design changed, throttle cable design and fuel tank/fuel level sender/fuel return check valve.
Your '85 may have the European "hotter" cams known as "Finest Year K"
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3653.msg56782.html#msg56782
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?4534-Why-is-the-85-K100-the-quot-Finest-Year-K-quot&s=66f149b3cadea44550d51fbf0b9ee793&p=42512&viewfull=1#post42512
The pre-1985/86 has molded pillion handles as part of the seat pan, metal or plastic seat pan.
Post-1985/86 removed handles from seat pan and added handles to the tail cowl section.
http://www.bmwkbike.dx.am/CLseats/kbikeseats.htm
Water Pump
pre-1986-87? original design old style impeller 11411461177
Superseded by 11412325850 design change the shaft with gear Z=32 teeth, shaft- 11411461183
Superseded by 11417676366 same shaft with gear Z=32 teeth
latest design 11517676371 design change shaft with gear Z=19 teeth, shaft- 11411461793
Throttle cables have 2 versions and lower brackets. Cable lengths vary with handlebars.
#1 version- have a adjustment sleeve approx. halfway down length
2nd version black plastic collar at the lower end or a white plastic collar
Pre-1985 fuel tank has a rear mounting tab later removed.
Early fuel lever sender is a thermistor type later is a float type.
http://www.kforum-tech.com/how-to/Modification%20for%20early%20gas%20tank.htm
Check condition of the inside of fuel tank. Lowest portions are prone to corrosion when moto is left sitting for some time.
Not many 85 tanks left around in this condition
ebay 85 Tank (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-Blue-Fuel-Tank-Gas-Tank-Cell-Petrol-Tank-1984-1988-K100-K100RT/121699402509?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D138bbb6debaa48cc8f9a08d64897c137%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D273672570818%26itm%3D121699402509%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 06:28:03 PM
Sharp looking moto!
46522311150 Center stand supporting bracket is same used by K100 & K1100
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&diagram=46_0114&partnumber=46522311150
This thread may be of some use showing the added left leg mod needed
somewhere around page 3
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2713-wider-wheels-radial-tyres-on-a-k100
Good riding
Thank you for the help, Volador!! I'll check that out.
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 06:36:48 PM
That 85 is a one hit wonder. Here's some added info
Notable differences of the pre-85/86 K100 are the seat pan design with matching tail cowl section, the water/oil pump design changed, throttle cable design and fuel tank/fuel level sender/fuel return check valve.
Your '85 may have the European "hotter" cams known as "Finest Year K"
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3653.msg56782.html#msg56782
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?4534-Why-is-the-85-K100-the-quot-Finest-Year-K-quot&s=66f149b3cadea44550d51fbf0b9ee793&p=42512&viewfull=1#post42512
The pre-1985/86 has molded pillion handles as part of the seat pan, metal or plastic seat pan.
Post-1985/86 removed handles from seat pan and added handles to the tail cowl section.
http://www.bmwkbike.dx.am/CLseats/kbikeseats.htm
Water Pump
pre-1986-87? original design old style impeller 11411461177
Superseded by 11412325850 design change the shaft with gear Z=32 teeth, shaft- 11411461183
Superseded by 11417676366 same shaft with gear Z=32 teeth
latest design 11517676371 design change shaft with gear Z=19 teeth, shaft- 11411461793
Throttle cables have 2 versions and lower brackets. Cable lengths vary with handlebars.
#1 version- have a adjustment sleeve approx. halfway down length
2nd version black plastic collar at the lower end or a white plastic collar
Pre-1985 fuel tank has a rear mounting tab later removed.
Early fuel lever sender is a thermistor type later is a float type.
http://www.kforum-tech.com/how-to/Modification%20for%20early%20gas%20tank.htm
Check condition of the inside of fuel tank. Lowest portions are prone to corrosion when moto is left sitting for some time.
Not many 85 tanks left around in this condition
ebay 85 Tank
Holly crap!! How long did it take for you to acquire all that K bike knowledge! You're wealth of knowledge is impressive and I very much appreciate you sharing that with me!
My gas tank has the mounting tab on the end like you were describing. First time I went to remove the tank (I had to replace the cooling fan) the underside of the tank was nothing like what I was expecting. I've seen many photos and videos with tanks coming off but mine didn't look like that on the underside. The float mechanism didn't unscrew from the bottom. In fact, there was nothing to unscrew. no foiled insulation. I just had the two fuel lines and a connector which I couldn't figure out how to take off. Looked like it unscrewed but it didn't unscrew easily so I left it in place and just moved the tank around enough to where I could access the radiator filler cap and fill with coolant. I think that connector just unplugs but I haven't tried that.
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 06:41:13 PM
greetings...
why not go directly to car tiors if you want wide...
you can put radials on those oe snowflakes...
here is the tior thread... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5480.0.html)
j o
Too extreme... the 160/60's are perfect! What are you running on your machine? That is one awesome looking moto!!
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 06:55:56 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2713-wider-wheels-radial-tyres-on-a-k100
Ahhh... I've spent many a night reading thru that thread. Found the pictures... I'll get the grinder out. Looks like there was some welding done as well but maybe not critical if parking on sold ground.
Post by: volador on October 06, 2019, 07:39:14 PM
The thermistor type fuel level sender is no longer available and rare as hens teeth on the interwebs.
Round connector ends power the fuel pump.
The photos are from DJEwen's '85 build http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10875.375.html
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12340.0.html
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071830-1164451.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145754-13302312.jpeg)
This pic is from the web shows a newer 43mm diameter fuel pump with sock strainer as opposed to the older 52mm pump
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GHEAAOSwkGldWbsS/s-l1600.jpg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-200719225631.png)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-200719225724.png)
Good Luck with your moto
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 10:12:36 PM
Go about tank removal carefully.
The thermistor type fuel level sender is no longer available and rare as hens teeth on the interwebs.
Round connector ends power the fuel pump.
Yup, that's exactly what mine looks like. Thank you for sharing that!
Good to know replacing that sender may be an issue if it goes bad. So far, at least, I know it partially works. I'll let this next tank run down until the red (4L?) warning light comes on. Hopefully the yellow bulb was broken before I replaced it so that it'll light before the red.
And thanks for the link to that other build... I'll spend some time looking thru that. It's a good looking ride!
Post by: bobvans on October 16, 2019, 11:37:57 AM
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Post by: bobvans on November 24, 2019, 02:52:54 PM
After many hours looking at pics on the internet, I've come to really like the classic look for the old K bikes. In particular, the RS. There's something about the squared off fairing that appeals to me. So I've been looking around on what it would take to add that fairing to my bike. Lots of parts on ebay but I'm sure there are a million little parts that I would need to pull this off that aren't as obvious as the fairing pieces themselves. Just so happens I stumble across this '85 RS that some guy on Facebook was selling for pretty cheap. So I figured if I could get the whole bike cheaper than what the fairing parts would cost me, I'd be that much further ahead. Plus I'll know where alll the parts go and how they're held together. Made the guy an offer and got the bike (delivered) for $300. The bike itself sat for years and isn't in the greatest of shape. It had the fuel pump pulled to get another bike going. So here she sits... not at my house yet but hopefully this week. My tentative plan is to swap the fairing over since my bike runs and runs well.
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Post by: johnny on November 24, 2019, 03:01:10 PM
the rs motobrick... the worlds most eloquent moto... excluding the hd pan american of course...
j o
Post by: bobvans on November 24, 2019, 03:30:29 PM
greetings...
the rs motobrick... the worlds most eloquent moto... excluding the hd pan american of course...
j o
Yes... I wish it was in much better shape. It supposedly ran before it sat for years but it would take some effort to get it running again. Maybe not for some of you Motobrick experts :-) Sitting out in the elements wasn't kind to it,
Post by: Texer on November 30, 2019, 05:44:58 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 30, 2019, 09:59:20 AM
So I've been looking around on what it would take to add that fairing to my bike. Lots of parts on ebay but I'm sure there are a million little parts that I would need to pull this off that aren't as obvious as the fairing pieces themselves. . . . My tentative plan is to swap the fairing over since my bike runs and runs well.You probably should take onboard what is written in this post (http://www.k100-forum.com/t7409-frame-fairing-compatibility), especially the reference to rubber frame mounts and consequent vibration which could affect the fairing if it's mounted on your naked Brick without them. The frame part numbers differ for the K100 and the K100RS and the frame to engine tightening sequences/shim clearance points are different, which might have implications on fitment.
It's a challenging project and others are likely to learn from your experience.
Post by: bobvans on November 30, 2019, 02:08:54 PM
You probably should take onboard what is written in this post (http://www.k100-forum.com/t7409-frame-fairing-compatibility), especially the reference to rubber frame mounts and consequent vibration which could affect the fairing if it's mounted on your naked Brick without them. The frame part numbers differ for the K100 and the K100RS and the frame to engine tightening sequences/shim clearance points are different, which might have implications on fitment.
It's a challenging project and others are likely to learn from your experience.
Thank you for the advice. I will definitely read thru the post you suggested. Didn’t realize the frames are different. That could be a potential issue. But you know, the more I’ve been thinking about this, the more I like the idea of trying to get it running. Once I get it (hopefully this weekend) I can take a closer look at it. Supposedly the PO pulled the fuel pump to get his other bike running. Makes me wonder why he wanted that bike running vs this one. So maybe just the fuel pump and a battery
Post by: bobvans on November 30, 2019, 02:13:49 PM
That’s a good parts source for the price - and - you get your fairing and attachment hardware. If you have the storage, you are pretty set up.
Yes, that’s what I’ve been thinking too. Althiugh now I’m leaning towards trying to get it running. That way I don’t need to take my good bije off the road and can tinker on the new one as I have time. We’ll see how it goes.
Hey, I see you’re from WA state. Where abouts? I’m in Vancouver, down by Portland.
Post by: bobvans on November 30, 2019, 03:16:23 PM
Thank you for the advice. I will definitely read thru the post you suggested. Didn’t realize the frames are different. That could be a potential issue. But you know, the more I’ve been thinking about this, the more I like the idea of trying to get it running. Once I get it (hopefully this weekend) I can take a closer look at it. Supposedly the PO pulled the fuel pump to get his other bike running. Makes me wonder why he wanted that bike running vs this one. So maybe just the fuel pump and a battery
In reading thru that post it seems the challenge is more with the later, 16V versions of the K bikes. So hopefully the earlier ones are more similar in design. I guess I'll find out soon enough :bmwsmile
Post by: Martin on November 30, 2019, 03:34:01 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Laitch on November 30, 2019, 05:29:24 PM
So hopefully the earlier ones are more similar in design.It's the vibration effect on the fairing—if any—generated by your moto's frame missing the rubber mounts that are on the RT and RS that will be useful for some owners to know. Please post photos as the project proceeds.
Is the rear of your moto's tank bolted to the frame, or pinned into grommets?
Post by: bobvans on December 01, 2019, 02:44:10 AM
It's the vibration effect on the fairing—if any—generated by your moto's frame missing the rubber mounts that are on the RT and RS that will be useful for some owners to know. Please post photos as the project proceeds.
Is the rear of your moto's tank bolted to the frame, or pinned into grommets?
My running bike, the red one, has the old style tank... with the mounting plate ate the rear. Not sure about the blue one I just bought. It’s in my garage now so will take a look.
Post by: bobvans on December 01, 2019, 02:55:12 PM
Bob to cheer you up a piccie of a K100S. Dream and you can sometimes make it so.
Regards Martin.BMW K100s 2.jpg (107.4 kB . 768x576 - viewed 947 times)
Thank you for the motivation, Martin. That's actually the color I had in mind!
I was out looking at the RS this morning and I'm getting more and more excited to get it back on the road. I did a real basic look over and here's what I've found so far...
- Missing battery (no surprise)
- Missing Jetronic controller (a surprise)
- Shifts up thru the gears ok, at least standing still
- No ignition switch that I can find, so maybe the PO just hard wired it? No, that would leave the lights on. Hmmm don't know.
- The little "dashboard" where the ignition switch would normally be mounted is missing
- Some missing bolts and screws
- Missing the gas cap assembly
- Fuel pump is present (was supposedly pulled) but wires are disconnected so maybe the bad pump from the other bike was put in there? Fuel filter is missing.
- It has the old style tank, with single rear mounting bolt, same as my other bike
- Flat front tire
- Front wheel hangs on rotation (warped rotors?)
- Back tire rotates fine
- Front break supposedly works but you have to pull it in completely to the handlebar if it does.
- Starter button broken
- Throttle extremely hard to turn
- Right mirror/signal not on the bike. I have it. It's missing one of the clips and the connector on the bike end was ripped off/missing
- Clutch appears to work
Post by: bobvans on December 01, 2019, 04:14:05 PM
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Post by: Martin on December 01, 2019, 04:34:30 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bobvans on December 02, 2019, 01:42:21 AM
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Tank is in need of a cleaning...
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Post by: Martin on December 02, 2019, 02:00:44 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bobvans on December 02, 2019, 02:20:53 AM
You don't have to sell a kidney to get a fuel pump OEM copies are around $36.00 Au. I've been running one since July 2017 and it hasn't missed a beat, even in 40C+ heat on a three day trip. See here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg85798.html#msg85798.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin. Good to hear the cheaper options are a good way to go. I will definitely go that route.
Been reading about how to best clean the inside of the tank. I think I'll start with a water rinse or two to get all the yard debris out and go from there. I've read about people using things like carb cleaner, baking soda and water, and vinegar. Not all at the same time of course.
Post by: bobvans on December 02, 2019, 02:31:07 AM
http://bimmer.work
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Post by: E30_Crazy on December 02, 2019, 02:32:26 AM
Post by: Martin on December 02, 2019, 02:56:20 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 02, 2019, 09:24:43 AM
Be sure to remove the fuel level sender before you start. If the arm doesn't move don't force it. I did and it cost me some large bucks to replace it. I don't know the best way to free it up if it's rusted solid, maybe a week or two in vinegar followed by lots of penetrating oil(not WD40).
Post by: bobvans on December 02, 2019, 11:08:34 AM
Post by: bobvans on December 02, 2019, 10:27:18 PM
Scotchbrite, Dawn detergent, and white vinegar were my best friends last summer when I did the tank on my "new" K100RS.
Be sure to remove the fuel level sender before you start. If the arm doesn't move don't force it. I did and it cost me some large bucks to replace it. I don't know the best way to free it up if it's rusted solid, maybe a week or two in vinegar followed by lots of penetrating oil(not WD40).
That sounds like a good combination and I happen to have both of those. I have the older tank config so no float to contend with... although it does have the old style 7L/4L level sense that tends to fail at some point and replacements aren't to be had.
Tank Diagram.JPG (52.18 kB . 768x541 - viewed 869 times)
Post by: bobvans on December 03, 2019, 09:53:38 PM
I had thought the rear brakes worked but based on this picture I'm going to change my position...
Rear Brake Tank.JPG (40.15 kB . 768x576 - viewed 854 times)Picture of the area behind the alternator. Hooking the battery up should be pretty straight forward...
Alternator.JPG (77.66 kB . 768x576 - viewed 873 times)This is the red LED that the PO mounted where the ignition switch would have been if the dashboard was still there. Not sure what it's for? Maybe to indicate ignition is turned on? I suppose it could be several things if the lights from the instrument cluster don't work...
LED.JPG (82.33 kB . 768x576 - viewed 773 times)This is what was in the storage compartment. Some CO2 cartridges to fill patched tires, a mouse nest (no mice), and some other misc stuff...
Rear Cowl.JPG (73.29 kB . 768x576 - viewed 825 times)As I was walking away and glancing at this bike and my good bike I started thinking of how much easier (and cheaper) it would be to just move the fairing parts over :twothumbsupp
Oh, almost forgot to mention that I didn't see the ignition switch anywhere. Will need to put in a concerted effort to locate it or at least the wires that would go to it.
Post by: volador on December 04, 2019, 01:47:38 AM
Post by: bobvans on December 05, 2019, 12:03:13 AM
You got a good shop vac and a bottle of Clorox bleach?
I've got a decent shop vac but no bleach. I have a knack of splashing that onto my favorite colored clothes so don't trust myself with it.
Post by: volador on December 05, 2019, 01:34:30 AM
I've got a decent shop vac but no bleach. I have a knack of splashing that onto my favorite colored clothes so don't trust myself with it.
5BSISYPHEAN BEN & JERRYS HAZ MAT SUIT.jpg (12.97 kB . 307x576 - viewed 1311 times)DuPont Tyvek 400 TY122S (https://www.amazon.com/Individually-Disposable-Protective-Coverall-Attached/dp/B00FU68QW8/ref=asc_df_B00FU68QW8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071691282&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=485848664570208266&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004335&hvtargid=pla-364516440175&psc=1)
Post by: bobvans on December 06, 2019, 12:24:53 AM
DuPont Tyvek 400 TY122S (https://www.amazon.com/Individually-Disposable-Protective-Coverall-Attached/dp/B00FU68QW8/ref=asc_df_B00FU68QW8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071691282&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=485848664570208266&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004335&hvtargid=pla-364516440175&psc=1)
That's a great idea!
Post by: bobvans on December 06, 2019, 12:35:44 AM
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I didn't like what I saw in the relay box... lots of spliced wires.
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Post by: bobvans on December 06, 2019, 12:40:42 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 06, 2019, 09:44:10 AM
Second, get a bottle of S-100 motorcycle cleaner. They sell it at your friendly Hardly Dangerous dealer. Along with a couple of sponges and a 75mm paint brush you can get the bike amazingly clean which makes it a lot more pleasant to work on. Once you've washed the bike, take the bottle to a laundry tub where you can clean individual parts when you remove them.
Post by: bobvans on December 07, 2019, 01:30:41 AM
Two suggestions: First, I would trace the wires spliced into the relay box. They look like they may be attached to the start relay.
Second, get a bottle of S-100 motorcycle cleaner. They sell it at your friendly Hardly Dangerous dealer. Along with a couple of sponges and a 75mm paint brush you can get the bike amazingly clean which makes it a lot more pleasant to work on. Once you've washed the bike, take the bottle to a laundry tub where you can clean individual parts when you remove them.
Great suggestions. I've got to find that ignition switch... it's got to be somewhere.
Post by: Nine80seven on December 09, 2019, 10:00:54 AM
Post by: bobvans on December 11, 2019, 03:02:18 AM
Looks like the black one next to yer blue one has a Staintune can. Grab it if you 'can'. The blue looks like a repaint job. I'd clean it up. Blow all the crud off and out. Should have a higher rear gear than the standard. Not to mention all the various bits common to '85s. Like 16 splines. Starter relay looks hot. High bars, looped Speigler. Somebody's been tinkering. Fix/ride the one that's in the best shape. The red standard has parts that are NLA. In fact, '85s all have parts NLA.
Forgive my ignorance... but what's a staintune can? The muffler? It does look different than all the other early K exhausts.
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Yea, the starter relay looks like it got a little hot. Might explain why the ignition was messed with.
I've been enjoying the red standard a lot! My plan is to keep it running (not use it to swap parts back and forth to get the blue one running). I've got a new fuel pump and associated parts on their way. I need to get a gas cap... those are spendy, even the used ones. I found one on ebay for about $100... may be my best bet. Hope to be able to get the engine running. If so, then hopefully the rest of it will come together relatively easily. We'll see.
Post by: natalena on December 11, 2019, 08:58:55 AM
Post by: volador on December 11, 2019, 09:50:06 AM
Nice Ohlins damper on the blacky
PM sent
Post by: Nine80seven on December 11, 2019, 10:28:02 AM
Problems are these have been sitting outside, very bad. Can't imagine why people do this to their stuff. So so so sad. So much work, time and cash. And the the titles? It's nice and not to see this stuff, thanx.
Post by: Nine80seven on December 11, 2019, 11:31:04 AM
Post by: bobvans on December 12, 2019, 01:17:37 AM
Yup, I got a Staintune too. Very light weight. NLA. The black one is a standard too. It's got the stainless brake lines on the front. Front fork brace, Telefix. Got a k75c fairing which works nice, not easy to find these days, I put one on a red standard back in the day. The Ohlins, very nice. Parts parts parts. Standard body work is hard to find. Got a little driving light. Someone set up that K100 real nice back in the day.
Problems are these have been sitting outside, very bad. Can't imagine why people do this to their stuff. So so so sad. So much work, time and cash. And the the titles? It's nice and not to see this stuff, thanx.
It's so cool that you guys can look at those pictures and start picking out all the things you see. I did notice that Ohlin shock.
I'm sure I can pick that black bike up for another $300 delivered, maybe even a little less. I like the parts parts parts but not sure I like the idea of having another bike in the garage. That said, I would only need to pull a couple of parts off that bike to break even.
Post by: bobvans on December 12, 2019, 01:45:27 AM
Here's my first K100 thirty years ago set up like that black standard, except with a Supertrapp. Wish I'd kept the red standard. At the time had too many bikes.
That's a gorgeous bike! Thanks for sharing that picture!
Post by: billday on December 12, 2019, 08:37:13 AM
Here's my first K100 thirty years ago set up like that black standard, except with a Supertrapp. Wish I'd kept the red standard. At the time had too many bikes.
Great photo, thanks.
Curious, how did your fender come to be a different color?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 12, 2019, 08:58:08 AM
Great photo, thanks.
Curious, how did your fender come to be a different color?
I was wondering the same thing. With the natural finish forks and engine covers it looks really good!
Post by: Nine80seven on December 12, 2019, 09:52:34 AM
When doing anything always save all parts whatever, with all appropriate fasteners in labeled baggies. If not you'll leave puzzle for yerself, later. Yer red standard has what appears a beautiful standard exhaust with seldom seen chrome cover. Definitely keep that for when the law demands stock configuration. Although '85s are already classics in most states. As much a hobby as it is a ride. Take care.
Post by: bobvans on December 14, 2019, 11:20:59 PM
I have a dash with ignition switch coming... thank you, Volador, for your assistance. Now just need a battery and a fuel cap, although I might try to wire things up just to see if the turn of the ignition gets me fuel pump action.
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Post by: bobvans on December 14, 2019, 11:35:41 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwgWOyVn3fA (love watching the speedo climb once he get's on her)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezT9zJV0pFE (I skip to near the end where he starts her up)
Post by: bobvans on December 15, 2019, 11:39:09 PM
Before rinse
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After rinse
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Post by: bobvans on December 17, 2019, 11:12:51 PM
Dashboard.JPG (89.31 kB . 768x576 - viewed 814 times)
Post by: bobvans on December 27, 2019, 10:28:23 PM
Two different styles of gas caps...
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The gas cap on my red bike is like the one on the left from the bottom view but like the one on the right from the top. The key hole looks a little banged up on the one with the recessed key hole so will see if I can use the other.
Post by: Martin on December 27, 2019, 11:55:31 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bobvans on December 28, 2019, 03:08:20 AM
Use the later one on the right. The flap arrangement can be removed.
Regards Martin.
Thank you, Martin. I was just reading about how moist take that flapper off.
Is there a gasket ring that goes between the fuel cap assembly and the tank? I was looking at an exploded view and it looks like I may need item number 8...
Tank Assembly.JPG (32.09 kB . 509x383 - viewed 762 times) Gasket Ring.JPG (15.67 kB . 512x182 - viewed 674 times)
Post by: Martin on December 28, 2019, 03:26:08 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on December 28, 2019, 07:26:43 AM
I was just reading about how moist take that flapper off.Moist?
Post by: bobvans on December 28, 2019, 11:55:08 AM
:twothumbsupp BMW: 16 11 1 453 690 is the cap to tank gasket.
Regards Martin.
Thank you for confirming that, Martin!
Now that I look at the two gas caps I have, they both do have a "hard" rubber gasket around the bottom. I'll go ahead and get a new one on order.
Post by: bobvans on December 28, 2019, 11:58:29 AM
Moist?
All? :bmwsmile
Post by: Laitch on December 28, 2019, 01:15:53 PM
All? :bmwsmileMoist, mist or must?
Post by: Martin on December 28, 2019, 01:23:38 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: volador on December 28, 2019, 08:36:33 PM
probably add to your parts list Gasket set Fuel Tank 16119062461
save the trip to the locksmith http://www.kforum-tech.com/how-to/open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock.htm (http://www.kforum-tech.com/how-to/open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock.htm)
and rekey the cylinder yourself
K Bike Keys (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2572.0.html)
How to "Rekey" K-Bike Locks (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,494.0.html)
Capital Cycle Neinman GKS Keys 51251233554 (https://www.capitalcycle.com/Key-Blank--Straight-Metal-_p_4625.html)
K-Bike Folding Keys 51251453659 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW-K100-R80-K75-Motorrad-R-K-Bike-Folding-Blank-Key-51251453659/263585213173?epid=1823455024&hash=item3d5ee72af5:g:O3gAAOSw94NcqdY5)
eBay Capital Cycle (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Flat-Steel-Key-Blank-R65-R80-R100-R60-K1-K100-K1100-F650-K75-R1150/291821153390?hash=item43f1e56c6e:g:0XMAAOSwdzVXi7mc:sc:USPSFirstClass!04073!US!-1)
eBay Keys 4x (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R65-R60-R100RT-R80-R90-R75-K1100LT-K1100RS-airhead-4-key-blanks/232321953181?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item361777ad9d:g:y1EAAOSwBahVYkvQ)
eBay Keys 2x (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Key-R65-R60-R100-R80-R90-R75-S-RS-RT-K100-airhead-1970-1995-blanks-X-2/174051245823?hash=)
Post by: bobvans on December 29, 2019, 05:58:50 AM
Moist, mist or must?
Ha ha... I see what I did now! Doh!
Post by: bobvans on December 29, 2019, 02:14:59 PM
I had a hardened gasket on a spare cap. I tried soaking it in ATF which didn't work. I then tried oil of wintergreen which after a couple of weeks soaking it softened up. However once removed from the wintergreen it soon hardened back up.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin... yea, I think I'll spring for a new one. I think I'll replace the gasket on my red bike as well.
Post by: bobvans on December 29, 2019, 02:16:44 PM
save the trip to the locksmith and rekey the cylinder yourself
Thank you for those amazing links! You guys have done it all!
Post by: bobvans on December 29, 2019, 02:20:29 PM
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Post by: bobvans on January 02, 2020, 10:54:00 PM
IMG_1621.JPG (43.95 kB . 768x576 - viewed 712 times)I gave the tank a good rinse and figure I'll continue to work on getting the junk out and not worry about the surface finish. Seems as long as the lye is out of there it shouldn't do any harm having a dull, rough finish. Anyone see a problem with that approach?
Post by: volador on January 03, 2020, 02:03:30 AM
I gave the tank a good rinse and figure I'll continue to work on getting the junk out and not worry about the surface finish. Seems as long as the lye is out of there it shouldn't do any harm having a dull, rough finish. Anyone see a problem with that approach?
Look on the bright side you've created the perfect surface finish should you ever consider a tank liner like Red Kote
Post by: Laitch on January 03, 2020, 05:49:01 AM
I gave the tank a good rinse and figure I'll continue to work on getting the junk out and not worry about the surface finish. Seems as long as the lye is out of there it shouldn't do any harm having a dull, rough finish.The chemical reaction of aluminum to lye has degraded the protective surface coating of aluminum and made it less resistant to corrosion by water—not a desirable effect when using hydrophilic fuel like gasohol, or subjecting the moto to periodic idleness that could produce condensation. You might seriously consider coating the tank's interior.
Vinegar has been a popular choice here for breaking down and helping to eliminate goo and varnish in Brick fuel tanks. It works well.
Post by: bobvans on January 04, 2020, 03:02:54 AM
The chemical reaction of aluminum to lye has degraded the protective surface coating of aluminum and made it less resistant to corrosion by water—not a desirable effect when using hydrophilic fuel like gasohol, or subjecting the moto to periodic idleness that could produce condensation. You might seriously consider coating the tank's interior.
Vinegar has been a popular choice here for breaking down and helping to eliminate goo and varnish in Brick fuel tanks. It works well.
I'll give the vinegar a try to get rid of the remaining contaminants... thank you!
Post by: alabrew on January 04, 2020, 12:10:06 PM
Post by: bobvans on January 09, 2020, 11:08:14 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PByahTfKHTU
Post by: bobvans on January 25, 2020, 06:31:08 PM
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At first I thought this flip up latch was some how holding the front fairing on but now I'm thinking it's just to protect the head light adjuster?
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Post by: mw074 on January 25, 2020, 06:37:45 PM
Post by: mw074 on January 25, 2020, 06:45:50 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 25, 2020, 06:57:05 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-250120185448.png)
Post by: bobvans on January 25, 2020, 09:54:23 PM
To expand on mw074's post, here is the description from the k100 rider's manual downloadable from the site.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-250120185448.png)
Ahhh, that makes sense! Thank you for clearing that up for me!
Post by: bobvans on January 25, 2020, 10:25:04 PM
IMG_1669.JPG (93.32 kB . 768x576 - viewed 617 times) IMG_1670.JPG (62.53 kB . 768x576 - viewed 629 times) IMG_1679.JPG (75.83 kB . 768x576 - viewed 584 times) IMG_1677.JPG (61.1 kB . 768x576 - viewed 599 times)Not quite sure if I have the handlebars in the right place... I left the handlebars loose, put the RS dash on, and positioned the handlebars to line the control clusters up with the dash extensions. Then removed the dash and tightened up the bars. Had to adjust the banjo bolts for the brake lines to allow the dask and the reservoir/controls to sit in the right position.
IMG_1671.JPG (84.25 kB . 768x576 - viewed 601 times)I've been wanting to get heated grips mounted so waiting until I had those so that I could do it all at the same time. Ended up going with the Koso Apollo's because I liked the integrated switch.
IMG_1685.JPG (52.2 kB . 768x576 - viewed 610 times) IMG_1687.JPG (56.88 kB . 768x576 - viewed 619 times)Something else that happened over that past few weeks... there was a break in the weather so decided to ride into work. Temp was high 30's but it was dry so thought, what the heck! I must add that before that day, the bike has been feeling a bit more loose when I went over the tar snakes and creases in the road. As I was turning off the freeway, the front tire looked a little weird as I was going around a slow long corner. Tire was FLAT! I've actually never checked pressure in the front tire because the one time I tried I wasn't able to get the air hose (with pressure gauge) onto the valve stem because of the rotors. Bee lined to the tire shop for some air. Guy said to watch the tire because the side walls were cracked. Checked the internet for possible tires. I've got a 160 Michelin Pilot Road 5 in the back on a K1200 wheel so wanted something close to the same. There's not much selection in the 100/90R18 so checked the forum and learned the 110/80R18 is a good alternative and found many more options. Closest match was a Michelin Pilot Road 3. The local bike shop had two and he made me a good deal on them (old inventory) so I bought both. Got it mounted and balanced but didn't have a chance to take it out until now. WOW! She turns in super easy now that I have a nice firm tire! The smaller handlebars may also be contributing to this. It's going to take a while to get used to this.
IMG_1680.JPG (91.89 kB . 768x576 - viewed 602 times) IMG_1681.JPG (75.58 kB . 768x576 - viewed 601 times)Here's a picture of the old handlebars for reference...
IMG_0860.JPG (89.84 kB . 768x576 - viewed 629 times)Post by: Laitch on January 25, 2020, 10:50:59 PM
Not quite sure if I have the handlebars in the right place... I left the handlebars loose, put the RS dash on, and positioned the handlebars to line the control clusters up with the dash extensions. Then removed the dash and tightened up the bars. Had to adjust the banjo bolts for the brake lines to allow the dask and the reservoir/controls to sit in the right position.There is more than 100mm difference in the length of an RS master cylinder hose compared with an RT master cylinder hose. I suggest replacing the hose with the correct size. With a moto that old, it's good practice to replace all the brake hoses anyway.
Put your red moto's model and year in your signature, too.
Post by: bobvans on January 25, 2020, 11:48:56 PM
There is more than 100mm difference in the length of an RS master cylinder hose compared with an RT master cylinder hose. I suggest replacing the hose with the correct size. With a moto that old, it's good practice to replace all the brake hoses anyway.
Put your red moto's model and year in your signature, too.
The PO had replaced all the brake lines but that's a big difference in length. I didn't like the big bend I have in there right now so good suggestion to replace it.
One thing I forgot to mention is that after I got the new handlebars loosely held in place, I noticed that I had the choke cable pinched in the bar clamps. I didn't think it damaged anything but my choke light now stays on whether it's on or not so I need to sort that out.
Post by: bobvans on January 26, 2020, 02:47:38 PM
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Post by: alabrew on January 28, 2020, 01:32:17 PM
No doubt, not having air in the front tyre is going to make for some heavy steering and a new tyre ALWAYS feels SO much better that that "piece of crap other brand" you took off.
I find quite the opposite between the Standard bars and the RS bars.
I find that the RS takes more counter steering pressure because there is less leverage with the shorter bars.
Post by: bobvans on January 28, 2020, 10:23:48 PM
"WOW! She turns in super easy now that I have a nice firm tire! The smaller handlebars may also be contributing to this."
No doubt, not having air in the front tyre is going to make for some heavy steering and a new tyre ALWAYS feels SO much better that that "piece of crap other brand" you took off.
I find quite the opposite between the Standard bars and the RS bars.
I find that the RS takes more counter steering pressure because there is less leverage with the shorter bars.
I totally agree with the RS (shorter) bars needing more pressure. I've read where others have said the same... the shorter bars result in less "responsiveness". I guess riding with that low/flat tire has given me an incorrect sense for what the taller bars feel like :laughing1:.
Post by: bobvans on January 28, 2020, 10:38:02 PM
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Unfortunately only the left side grip was getting warm. I waited and waited but while the left got warmer and warmer the right didn't. I was so bummed. Thoughts of how I would need to now uninstall them to return them, or what I could do to avoid or minimize removing and reinstalling. Some of the reviews I've read for these grips did mention one side not getting warm or that they heated unevenly so I ended up with one of the bad ones.
Decided to just lift the tank back up and see if anything obvious jumps out at me. This is what I find...
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Took the controller with cables to work and found that the terminal was never crimped around the insulation to provide any sort of strain relief. Not even sure if the wires were even crimped to the terminal because there were no broken wires in the crimp. I ended up removing both terminals, soldering the wires to them, and crimping the terminal to the insulation. Reinstalled the controller/cables and now both grips get warm. Yay!! icon_cheers
Post by: bobvans on January 28, 2020, 10:48:22 PM
IMG_1705.JPG (49.47 kB . 768x576 - viewed 732 times) IMG_1706.JPG (48.39 kB . 768x576 - viewed 701 times) IMG_1707.JPG (49.56 kB . 768x576 - viewed 730 times) IMG_1708.JPG (48.38 kB . 768x576 - viewed 710 times) IMG_1709.JPG (46.52 kB . 768x576 - viewed 689 times)Post by: alabrew on January 29, 2020, 12:27:12 PM
Go back and change those zipties...black is what you want. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Laitch on January 29, 2020, 03:43:07 PM
Post by: johnny on January 29, 2020, 04:10:19 PM
white zyptyes have privilege... even in canadica...
j o
Post by: bobvans on January 29, 2020, 10:26:08 PM
Go back and change those zipties...black is what you want. :laughing4-giggles:
Ha ha... I almost made a special trip to the hardware store to get some black ones but then figured they were under the tank. I may still go back and swap them for black. :laughing1:
Post by: bobvans on January 29, 2020, 10:27:22 PM
Post by: bobvans on February 02, 2020, 10:24:52 PM
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Post by: Laitch on February 02, 2020, 10:51:32 PM
Post by: bobvans on February 04, 2020, 10:51:31 PM
IMG_1719.JPG (51 kB . 768x576 - viewed 628 times)Took some time this morning to get the right hand switch controls swapped out. First obstacle... how the heck do you get the main connector apart! Ended up cutting open the protective sleeve to see what I needed to push. Found the two catch releases on the two sides and managed to get it apart.
IMG_1721.JPG (34.6 kB . 768x576 - viewed 633 times) IMG_1724.JPG (35.46 kB . 768x576 - viewed 605 times)Next challenge was how the heck to get that big connector past the forks and out from behind the headlight assembly. I didn't see a way to do this without taking the headlight assembly off (at least partially)
IMG_1725.JPG (36.69 kB . 768x576 - viewed 619 times)Took the headlight shroud off to access the four mounting bolts that hold the headlight assembly to the forks/triple tree.
IMG_1726.JPG (65.23 kB . 768x576 - viewed 616 times) IMG_1730.JPG (53.64 kB . 768x576 - viewed 605 times)I just loosened the two bolts on the bottom and the top right (looking at the headlight), removed the top left. This gave me plenty of room to get the cable out.
IMG_1734.JPG (44.57 kB . 768x576 - viewed 657 times)While I was at it, I got the switch for the four way flashers installed. Mounting the switch to the dash pad was pretty straight forward. Followed the old wire to the connector on the main harness and plugged the new switch in. Only thing is the new switch doesn't have the third wire (and I assume no light) to light up the switch. Not a big deal since it's pretty obvious that the four ways are on.
IMG_1736.JPG (76.38 kB . 768x576 - viewed 639 times) IMG_1737.JPG (58.05 kB . 768x576 - viewed 637 times) IMG_1738.JPG (60.78 kB . 768x576 - viewed 629 times)I'm not happy with the wire/cable routing around the handlebars... will deal with that when I swap out the left hand switch controls (coming from ebay) and the shorter brake hose. Swapping out the cables for the short RS ones is probably something I should consider as well.
Old vs New... on my red bike
IMG_1742.JPG (54.93 kB . 768x576 - viewed 612 times)The old ones I can put on the blue bike cuz those buttons are in bad shape (assuming I get it running).
IMG_1744.JPG (49.72 kB . 768x576 - viewed 631 times)Post by: alabrew on February 05, 2020, 11:57:30 AM
The M&M's are only $60 with a free throttle cable!
Post by: bobvans on February 06, 2020, 02:11:20 AM
The M&M's are only $60 with a free throttle cable!
That's hilarious!! I've got enough bags of m&ms from them to open a candy store! Ha ha... not really. Only 6 or 7. It's nice to have a source or two like them for parts. I've got short cuts for Max BMW and EME and have given both of them a bit of business.
Post by: bobvans on February 10, 2020, 02:47:17 AM
One thing I've been noticing for a while now is the smell of something getting hot somewhere. Well today I found the source. It started with the speedometer needle fluctuating back and forth. It would move up as speed picked up but the needle wouldn't be steady. So I check the forums and a few talk about spraying contact cleaner into the fuse sockets and sliding the fuses in and out. So I did that. But while I was at it I noticed a long brown wire that was loosely coiled up next to the battery. It was connected to the engine but the wire insulation was showing signs of being overheated.
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Glad that I found the source of the smell. Will see where the wire goes and replace it with something more substantial and shorter.
Post by: volador on February 11, 2020, 12:44:35 AM
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm)
Post by: bobvans on February 11, 2020, 11:00:10 AM
upgrade with BATTERY CABLE KIT (4 GAUGE) - BMW K BIKE; NEG 61 12 1 244 577, POS N/A / ENDURALAST available from EME
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm)
I've seen that cable kit from EME while looking for other things. Didn't think I'd be buying one (or two) :laughing4-giggles:
Thank you for the suggestion, Volador!
Post by: alabrew on February 11, 2020, 12:45:29 PM
That is what the ground cable on the RS looks like too, big flat connector rather than an eyelet.
Post by: bobvans on February 11, 2020, 11:25:41 PM
When we needed a ground cable for the R65, my FIL just went to Napa and bought a pre-made one, I'm sure it was much less than $30. Just looked - $7.
That is what the ground cable on the RS looks like too, big flat connector rather than an eyelet.
So is that brown wire in the picture which ties into the transmission housing the primary ground cable? I haven't checked to see where it leads just yet.
Post by: Laitch on February 11, 2020, 11:44:57 PM
So is that brown wire in the picture which ties into the transmission housing the primary ground cable?We don't know where that brown wire connects. What we do know is that screw at the transmission is the usual point of connection for the cable from the battery's negative post.
Post by: bobvans on February 12, 2020, 12:02:20 AM
We don't know where that brown wire connects. What we do know is that screw at the transmission is the usual point of connection for the cable from the battery's negative post.
I'll have to dig around and see what the PO had going on. I'll report back.
Post by: bobvans on February 12, 2020, 12:31:53 AM
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Positive terminal goes to the alternator and the relay box (I'm assuming the starter relay)
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Post by: bobvans on February 12, 2020, 12:43:26 AM
upgrade with BATTERY CABLE KIT (4 GAUGE) - BMW K BIKE; NEG 61 12 1 244 577, POS N/A / ENDURALAST available from EME
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm)
Too bad the EME wire kit comes with black tie wraps... was hoping for white :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: volador on February 12, 2020, 12:47:13 AM
Yup... that little brown wire is the only thing connected to the battery's negative terminal.
shorten wire and crimp new ring connector, you be good to go
matches the rest of the earth tone wires
Post by: Laitch on February 12, 2020, 09:51:14 AM
A compact and secure method for attaching the positive and negative cables is to remove the post screws that protrude upward from the battery then attach L-brackets to the battery to receive the battery's ring terminals, or attach the ring terminals with screws directly into the terminal blocks but I would consider this battery ready for recycling. Do you know its history?
The battery's hold-down plate is installed upside down and reversed; that should be corrected.
Post by: bobvans on February 12, 2020, 10:18:40 AM
The electronic control holder shouldn't be resting on the battery posts. Inspect the holder; its rubber frame mounts might be missing.
A compact and secure method for attaching the positive and negative cables is to remove the post screws that protrude upward from the battery then attach L-brackets to the battery to receive the battery's ring terminals, or attach the ring terminals with screws directly into the terminal blocks but I would consider this battery ready for recycling. Do you know its history?
The battery's hold-down plate is installed upside down and reversed; that should be corrected.
Great observations, Laitch!!
The PO had told me the battery was new and that it was too short for the hold downs so he put a piece of wood underneath it.
I’ve read of others who flipped over the battery tray because the battery was too short or too tall, can’t remember which. I’ll get in there and sort that out.
As for the holder sitting on the terminals, that was me... I was trying to get the holder/tray out so that I could see the battery better but It was bumping into the seat support so decided to get the picture from the side. But in moving the tray around, the round bumper stopper fell out so the tray was sitting lower when I tool the pics. I was only able to find one of the rubber bumpers but got it back in place. Not sure the missing one was ever there because I didn’t see that one falling out. will look a bit more. May need to get a replacement.
Post by: Laitch on February 12, 2020, 10:50:19 AM
Post by: bobvans on February 13, 2020, 11:15:09 AM
Raising the battery by use of the wood platform is a better means of stabilizing it than defeating the design of the hold-down. When the moto isn't being used, the battery ground cable should be disconnected from the transmission after the battery has been fully charged; otherwise, the battery needs to be fully charged then maintained on a trickle charger. To do neither will result in a faulty battery.
That's good to know... thank you! The bike came with a trickle charger but I've never used it. Should the moto be on the trickle charger pretty much at all times then?
Post by: billday on February 13, 2020, 11:24:45 AM
Funny story. When I bought my 1985 K100, the ground strap from the battery was connected to the frame under the cross piece that the tank mounts to (again, this is an '85). Many a time I've gazed at that mounting point on the left side of the transmission and wondered what it's there for. Now I know, so thanks, Bob.
Post by: Laitch on February 13, 2020, 01:50:40 PM
Should the moto be on the trickle charger pretty much at all times then?If your charger is the type that shuts down when the battery is fully-charged, then you could leave it connected except when starting and running the engine for maintenance and diagnostic reasons.
Post by: bobvans on February 13, 2020, 11:22:57 PM
Autozone has a nice assortment of ground cables (including some roll-your-own kits) in their battery department.
Funny story. When I bought my 1985 K100, the ground strap from the battery was connected to the frame under the cross piece that the tank mounts to (again, this is an '85). Many a time I've gazed at that mounting point on the left side of the transmission and wondered what it's there for. Now I know, so thanks, Bob.
Glad someone was able to learn something from my trials and tribulation posts :laughing1:
I'm hoping the improved ground I get will fix my speedometer problem. The needle bounces around quite a bit. I must say that it didn't do this until after I switched my handlebars but I don't see how the two can be related. Actually, the other thing I did was add the heated grips but can't see how that would affect the speedometer either. I tried cleaning the fuses and spraying with deoxit like some recommended... the fluctuations may have gotten a little smaller but it's still fluctuating.
Post by: Martin on February 13, 2020, 11:41:06 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bobvans on February 14, 2020, 11:13:11 AM
Bob speedo needle bounce can be cause by a dirty speedo sensor at the final drive or a dirty connection where the sensor plugs into the harness.
Regards Martin.
I'll take a look at that, thank you! Also read cleaning the 3 pronged connection inside the instrument cluster has fixed this issue for others. I'll try the easy things first.
Post by: bobvans on February 14, 2020, 11:56:36 PM
Post by: Martin on February 15, 2020, 12:14:06 AM
Post by: bobvans on February 15, 2020, 12:24:35 AM
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Post by: bobvans on February 17, 2020, 10:22:46 PM
Post by: Martin on February 17, 2020, 11:44:10 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on February 18, 2020, 12:29:16 AM
Post by: bobvans on February 18, 2020, 11:08:05 AM
Try tweaking it again at the plug and if that works go buy a waterproof two pin plug.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin... I'll give that a try this morning. The bike did get rained on a few days ago and I drove home on wet roads. I was also thinking that if the connection is loose that it may have just vibrated to a point where it wasn't making good contact again. Will give an update tonight.
Post by: bobvans on February 18, 2020, 11:11:45 AM
Considering that relic looked like it had been pulled from a moldy hay mow, consider disconnecting the plug from the speedometer itself, cleaning all the connections and checking their tightness, too.
Ha ha... yea, that blue bike is in not so good shape. It's actually been preventing me from wanting to work on it. That and the garage has been cold. Plus I've been wanting to ride the red bike (this is the one with the fluctuating speedo) every chance I can get. Excuses, excuses 44271
Post by: billday on February 18, 2020, 11:18:06 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 18, 2020, 11:52:19 AM
Plus I've been wanting to ride the red bike (this is the one with the fluctuating speedo) every chance I can get. \Please put the red moto's year and model in your Profile's Bikes: list, too. Consider posting about your work on the red bike in a separate thread within Motobrick Workshop so you don't confuse the chemically/hormone distracted or elderly here. That might be just about everybody. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: alabrew on February 18, 2020, 04:07:41 PM
They were Gore-Tex. You can buy small Gore-Tex patch kits at camping stores to make new ones.
Post by: bobvans on February 18, 2020, 10:13:43 PM
Thanks, Martin... I'll give that a try this morning. The bike did get rained on a few days ago and I drove home on wet roads. I was also thinking that if the connection is loose that it may have just vibrated to a point where it wasn't making good contact again. Will give an update tonight.
Tried wiggling things around but no improvement. Took the female terminals out and crimped the ends closed a bit to better mate with the male ends. It was a bit tough to mate the two but I'm pretty confident they're making good contact. Still no improvement. Has me wondering if I have a bad wire. I'm going to try swapping out the pick up sensor from the blue bike to see if there's any difference. I've also read where people have fixed this by tightening the interconnect inside the cluster. I want to calibrate the speedo so will have it open and can try that then. In the mean time, I'll try a few other things.
Post by: bobvans on February 18, 2020, 10:16:49 PM
Please put the red moto's year and model in your Profile's Bikes: list, too. Consider posting about your work on the red bike in a separate thread within Motobrick Workshop so you don't confuse the chemically/hormone distracted or elderly here. That might be just about everybody. :laughing4-giggles:
Yea, I was thinking of that myself. I'll post more specific topics like "fluctuating Speedo" or something. Thanks for the suggestion!
Post by: bobvans on February 19, 2020, 10:45:12 AM
Bob, after 1985 they made some major improvements to the instrument box -- went from 7 screws to 9 holding it together, and added a couple of circular vents on the back with fabric "screens" that supposedly let moisture out but not in. Thanks to the Kafe Kraze, later-model bread boxes are available and relatively cheap. You might want to consider finding yourself a replacement.
That's a really good suggestion! I'm a big fan of changes that lead to improvements. I could even try the cluster on the blue bike. Thanks for the idea!
Post by: volador on February 19, 2020, 10:51:23 AM
Post by: Skunky on February 19, 2020, 04:23:44 PM
Post by: bobvans on February 20, 2020, 10:52:24 AM
Just a thought. Have you disconnected cleaned and refitted the ground cables under the tank. They tend to get mucky and a little rusty and then all sorts of weird stuff happens (like fluctuating speedos).
No, I haven't. I'll add that to my list of things to do when I go to replace the melted ground cable. Thanks, Skunky!
BTW, I was looking at your build last night. Nice work!
Post by: Skunky on February 20, 2020, 01:30:55 PM