Post by: Quiltzig on March 16, 2019, 06:08:41 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 16, 2019, 06:30:05 PM
Post by: Quiltzig on March 16, 2019, 06:42:41 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 16, 2019, 06:52:14 PM
Post by: rbm on March 16, 2019, 07:03:34 PM
Post by: Quiltzig on March 16, 2019, 07:17:32 PM
Post by: rbm on March 16, 2019, 07:21:50 PM
I believe the source side of the fuses are on the left, so check both sides of the fuse for voltage to determine if the contacts in the fuse holder are not loose.
Post by: Quiltzig on March 16, 2019, 07:31:58 PM
Post by: alexg on March 16, 2019, 11:26:11 PM
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 12:01:01 AM
Post by: Scott_ on March 17, 2019, 06:56:18 AM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,536.0.html
Post by: rbm on March 17, 2019, 07:39:12 AM
The implication in your first post was that there is an electrical problem that is preventing the fuel pump from working, but your 10th post confirms all the pump electrics are working properly, including fuse #1 and fuse #6. Voltage should only appear at fuse #6 with the engine turning over. Did you take your measurements at fuse #6 with the engine spinning or at rest?
Your problem is now sounding to be more mechanical in nature than electrical. Can we assume that you've put the hoses back on the tank correctly?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 17, 2019, 11:32:04 AM
Post by: johnny on March 17, 2019, 03:52:49 PM
the fuel injection relay is no longer available from bmw... you gonna have to getts one from...
https://www.jaycar.com.au
now to the matter at hand... is this the no start moto you speak of...
B53732D7-64B0-4066-8EC4-1D8A071C6467.jpeg (75.66 kB . 768x576 - viewed 1007 times)or is it this one..
photo 1.jpg (80 kB . 768x576 - viewed 1110 times)j o
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 04:20:53 PM
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 04:22:46 PM
You posted two contradictory statements about the condition of your fuel pump electrics. In Post #1, you wrote "I found that I am not getting any voltage at fuse #6" and then in post #10, you post "I should have said that I get voltage at the female side of the 4 pin connector".
The implication in your first post was that there is an electrical problem that is preventing the fuel pump from working, but your 10th post confirms all the pump electrics are working properly, including fuse #1 and fuse #6. Voltage should only appear at fuse #6 with the engine turning over. Did you take your measurements at fuse #6 with the engine spinning or at rest?
Your problem is now sounding to be more mechanical in nature than electrical. Can we assume that you've put the hoses back on the tank correctly?
True - I did not realise initially that the pump only runs when the starter is pressed. Hence I was testing the power at both the fuse and the connector with just the ignition turned on. later I realised my mistake. The hoses are connected correctly.
Post by: johnny on March 17, 2019, 04:42:05 PM
is the black one also yours...
j o
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 04:45:58 PM
Post by: johnny on March 17, 2019, 04:48:16 PM
id ask the new owner if you could try his fuel injection relay... you can eliminate that from the equation... that way you wont have to ping jaycar...
j o
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 04:51:49 PM
Post by: daveson on March 17, 2019, 04:56:08 PM
If not, maybe revisit filmcameras' idea.
If so, did you remove the pump for your repairs? You may have forgot to tighten one of those hose clamps (or wires)
Provide 12V to pin 86 of the relay and earth to 85, you should hear a click as the contact closes, and should have continuity between 30 and both 87 pins. It makes more sense if you look at the illustration on the relay.
Post by: Quiltzig on March 17, 2019, 11:31:00 PM
Which relay is the one that you are referring to? I can't find any data on which is which.
Post by: daveson on March 18, 2019, 12:55:28 AM
You have Voltage on the female side of the four pin (therefore the relay is supplying Voltage) do you have Voltage on the male side? This can be done outside the tank. Check earth too.
If working, with the filler cap openned and the starter continuously pressed for say five seconds, you should see fuel returning to the tank
By the way, what is the cylindrical thing between the air filter and the crank cover?
Post by: rbm on March 18, 2019, 06:39:26 AM
1. unplug the 4-pin tank connector
2. use a multimeter on DCV range, stick the positive (red) probe into the socket for the Green/White wire on 4-pin harness side. Fasten the negative (black) probe onto a ground point.
3. Crank the engine and observe the multimeter. It should read +12V or there abouts.
4. Release the start button while continuing to observe the multimeter. It should continue to indicate +12V for about 1.5 seconds AFTER you release the button, then drop to 0V.
Post by: Laitch on March 18, 2019, 10:06:52 AM
True - I did not realise initially that the pump only runs when the starter is pressed.It seems you are closing in on the problem but just to clarify, when you let off the starter button on a K75, the pump will still run for approximately two seconds and you'll hear its whine.It is hard to hear the pump over the sound of the starter motor cranking, . . .
Post by: Quiltzig on March 19, 2019, 12:53:56 AM
Post by: natalena on March 19, 2019, 12:36:58 PM
Post by: Quiltzig on March 19, 2019, 03:15:53 PM
By the way, what is the cylindrical thing between the air filter and the crank cover?
The cylinder is a custom made radiator overflow tank.
Post by: rbm on March 19, 2019, 07:56:25 PM
Post by: johnny on March 20, 2019, 03:50:25 PM
motobrick.com is going to be banned in new zeeland... you gonna have to getts the signal from tasmania...
good luck...
j o