MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: szabgab on October 05, 2018, 04:51:28 PM
-
Dear all,
Finally I managed to delve into my 130.000 km '85 K75S' final drive and drive shaft business. The situation seems to be rather bad, or is it? To my untrained eyes it looks like, the splines are pretty much shot, especially on the drive shaft side, please see the shed load of images, I have attached. Is this catastrophe waiting to happen or the doom is not knocking on the door as yet? Also upon dis-assembly a large-ish quantity of rust coloured light oily fluid came out of the shaft housing, you can see that on the first pictures... What the hell is that? Is it gear oil mixed with water and rust from the shaft? There was this fluid and a lot of brown coloured mud like crap, that was hard to clean off, I did at the end, and lubed the splines very thoroughly with LM47 Liqui Moly (we don't have any Honda Moly 60 around here, and this is the stuff, Haynes calls for), but what is this? I would guess it is possibly water ingress through some torn rubber, but where is the oil coming from? Leaking seal on the gear shaft? I could not go in any deeper into the bike this time around, but what should I check next time? Also if there is water present, especially in largish quantities, would that wash of the grease quickly?
Thank you!
Gabriel
-
Yikes. Looks like Tiger Shark teeth. If it were mine, I'd replace the parts as it looks close enough to "it'll fail soon enough" and will probably happen at the worst possible time. Then again, I defer to the experts who may demonstrate much more on-road courage and faith in BM metallurgy than me. :)
-
Try Honda car dealer for the grease or a Subaru dealer. Alternatively BMW have come up with a new spline grease Castrol Molub- Alloy paste TA BMW part No 18 21 9 062 599.
Regards Martin.
-
To my untrained eyes it looks like, the splines are pretty much shot, especially on the drive shaft side, please see the shed load of images, I have attached. Is this catastrophe waiting to happen . . . ? Also upon dis-assembly a large-ish quantity of rust coloured light oily fluid came out of the shaft housing, you can see that on the first pictures... What the hell is that? Is it gear oil mixed with water and rust from the shaft?
It is inconvenience waiting to happen. When the remaining tips of those driveshaft output splines break off, there will be sustained screeching while the transmission is in gear and forward motion under power will stop; you'll be coasting. You do not have hundreds of miles remaining on those driveshaft splines. The final drive splines appear to be in somewhat better condition and that is not unusual.
If the oil in the brown, oily, mud mix smells like sulfur, it could be leaking from around the transmission output shaft as seen in the attached image. The forward connection of the driveshaft to the transmission output shaft is covered by a boot that might be ripped or missing altogether. The boot keeps water and grit from affecting the u-joint connection. The brown tint is likely rust from the driveshaft cause by water in the oily, mud mix. The mud might actually be mud. :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-051018172953.png)
I think it would be better for you to keep dismantling all the way to the intermediate engine housing for inspection. Are you using Chris Harris's video as a guide?
-
You do not have hundreds of miles remaining on those driveshaft splines. The final drive splines appear to be in somewhat better condition and that is not unusual.
Oh cool, this is what I feared :(
So replacement time is imminent, but is it OK to replace the shaft only, or do they have to go in pair with the final drive? Also if the driveshaft looks this crappy, the clutch splines will be too, is this correct? F... me, there were two things costly to repair on a K75, DS-FS and fuel pump. My fuel pump is an aftermarket piece with the wrong characteristics and meltig rubber surroundings, and the shaft is toasted. Just my luck :(((
-
So replacement time is imminent, but is it OK to replace the shaft only, or do they have to go in pair with the final drive? Also if the driveshaft looks this crappy, the clutch splines will be too, is this correct? Just my luck :(((
You are incorrect about the transmission input/clutch shaft splines. You won't know their condition until you look at them. That shaft could be ok. Having the mating surfaces of the driveshaft and the final drive shaft both in good condition is preferable but they don't need to be in the same condition. Plenty of riders have replaced their driveshafts with used ones in good condition.
-
Try Honda car dealer for the grease or a Subaru dealer. Alternatively BMW have come up with a new spline grease Castrol Molub- Alloy paste TA BMW part No 18 21 9 062 599.
Regards Martin.
I did try Honda and Subaru dealers, for some reason they say, they can not get US stuff in Europe, this sounds like bullsh*t to me, but what can I do? The LM47 is a good lube but it is not a paste, so I might just try to get the Optimol, you mentioned.... after I replaced that sodding driveshaft
-
You are incorrect about the transmission input/clutch shaft splines. You won't know their condition until you look at them. That shaft could be ok. Having the mating surfaces of the driveshaft and the final drive shaft both in good condition is preferable but they don't need to be in the same condition. Plenty of riders have replaced their driveshafts with used ones in good condition.
That's somewhat reassuring to hear. The PO, who had the bike for five years has driven only 15.000 km's, but he never lubed either of the shafts. He also never looked at or changed the clutch, but it is not slipping (even though there is oil in the weep hole between the housings) and it is not particularly hard to downshift from 4 to 3 (although the gears are somewhat clunky). Disassembly will have to wait till the winter downtime, I do not have a garage or a helping hand, so I will take the bike to my brother's place in an another town, so we can tackle the issue together. Till then I will watch the Harris videos again a few more times, also the descriptions of the procedure on historical threads here are invaluable (like the trick, how not to rip the clutch boot, or how to align the transmission upon re-assembly).
There is a BMW K specialist in this country, who is also salvaging bikes, he said, he might have a 20T differential (DS+FD) in good nick for about 150-180 USD. He is not willing to separate the parts, as they are forming a pair in his opinion. The price is not that crazy, so I might just go for that, especially, that my rear rotor is about becoming illegal. If he can not help me, I might try the motobins solution (although I'm not crazily excited about the fact, that I need to find a welder, who will not botch up the job). Knowing, what I know, I'm scared to go on trips with this bike, although I might still get away with it for a while... Anyway, I will see on Monday, if this guy has got something for me, if not, well, I will have to thank whoever is to be thanked, that I did not manage to sell my scooter since owning the K :)
-
I will have to thank whoever that is to be thanked, that I did not manage to sell my scooter since owning the K :)
You might think your luck is bad but that is good luck. It might be the start of a trend. :2thumbup:
-
As far as the lube goes I've used white Optimol paste until the last grease at a 170,000 K's, the splines are still quite serviceable. I am now using the new Optimol silver paste around $30.00 AU. As a precaution I've been chasing a spare stuffed shaft and ordered a new spline from the UK to go with it. While I was waiting for the spline to arrive I found a brand new OEM one on Ebay. I was the only bidder, and got it for $190.00 AU on the starting price. Probably as rare as Unicorn poo, I've never seen one advertised before.
Regards Martin.
-
You might think your luck is bad but that is good luck. It might be the start of a trend. :2thumbup:
Laitch, thanks for the encouragement, even though I think luck would have been to buy a bike, selling the old one and having the new one in good order, but I have to face the fact, that I have very well thought my splines could be garbage, as the bike is a high mileage one with known neglect in it's history (and God only knows, how many PO's). I'm mostly surprised, there is not more of the home made mechanics' crap (Lada and Skoda parts, insulation tape to holding stuff down), as Hungarians (me included) are usually broke but resourceful :D
-
As far as the lube goes I've used white Optimol paste until the last grease at a 170,000 K's, the splines are still quite serviceable. I am now using the new Optimol silver paste around $30.00 AU. As a precaution I've been chasing a spare stuffed shaft and ordered a new spline from the UK to go with it. While I was waiting for the spline to arrive I found a brand new OEM one on Ebay. I was the only bidder, and got it for $190.00 AU on the starting price. Probably as rare as Unicorn poo, I've never seen one advertised before.
Regards Martin.
Martin, that was a business, I'm sure, many of us would have been proud of. BMW is selling a new one for 330 USD or so. If you have used the Optimol for 170k miles and the splines are still OK-ish, that is a good enough reference point for me, to use that from now on. Also they can be bought at my local BMW dealer, which can not be said of the other stuff (especially Guard Dog molly, that is now completely gone even for the Americans)....
-
The whole spline lube thing is like opening a can of worms, a lot of varied opinions. I think the key to long spline life seems to be frequent lubing, every rear tyre change. Using either a thick high moly content grease or in my case the original Optimol. Both the old Optimol and the new silver Optimol don't appear to have any Moly content at all which seems to go against current opinion. When I first got my Brick 20 years ago I bought spline lube of the local BMW dealer part No 07 55 1 223 05 and it is black, a mate who was a BMW tech told me not to use it and to use the white Optimol. So far what I have been using has worked so I'll be sticking with Optimal. An overseas BMW technician recommended the new silver Optimal saying that BMW is always looking for improved lubricants. It took a bit of wrangling to persuade the local BMW shop to part with it.
Regards Martin.
-
The whole spline lube thing is like opening a can of worms, a lot of varied opinions. I think the key to long spline life seems to be frequent lubing, every rear tyre change.
Yes, indeed, when I was researching the whole grease - paste - whatever issue, there were opposing voices, later I asked the Honda dealership, and they use anything, that has got molly in and is not too expensive :) Chris Harris (if he is the guy, ho swears 24/7 on his videos) puts solely Staburags on the clutch splines, so on, so forth. Anyway, as you said, no leak (which I do have, most likely water ingression through a torn swing arm boot combined with shaft seal leak) and frequent greasing and cleaning helps a ton....
BTW is it possible to replace the drive shaft and output shaft seals without tearing the gearbox to pieces? Also, is there a common and cheap replacement of the shaft seals (probably on both sides of the transmission, as I do not know, what I will find inside, once I get in that deep).
Thanks!
-
So, no luck here, the guy does not have any driveshafts, only a final drive, I contacted a salvage yard, thet don't have one either. Ebay stuff is crap and usually 16 teeth, rather than the 20, I have. Motobins is out of stock of the shaft end, anyway, I could not find a welder, who would take this job on. Oh f*ck me sideways, what's next? Does anybody has got one lying around collecting dust?
-
Oh f*ck me sideways, what's next?
Suspended from a rafter is the usual next step.
Keep looking. You've got access to a broad network here.
-
Suspended from a rafter is the usual next step.
Keep looking. You've got access to a broad network here.
:D Laitch you chuckled me up with that. Sorry for venting earlier, I have so many little nagging issues with this bike, I thought, I might just be lucky this time around, well I was not. The bike had a reasonable price tag but came from an un-knowledgeable PO, who did not do proper maintenance and rather than checking out several K75's, I have bought the first one, I have seen (but liked a lot nevertheless). Cosmetically it is very sound but 130.000 kilometres won't go by unnoticed by a mechanically neglected bike...
BTW, I have noticed, that it does not matter, if the DS end in 20 or 16 tooth, the other side is always 16, is this correct? Does that mean, if I source a whole 16t differential, I can simply swap those parts?
-
Nasty splines. Sent PM
I too started my brick infatuation as you thinking I was in for trauma after trauma..and initially that was true. As you sort this machine you will either fall in love or as you suggest, prefer something newer and low maintenance as care and feeding is very much the way here in the asylum....
For my part I encourage you to get your hands dirty, tackle this and a few of the other known issues and proceed with your courtship.
Visited Hungary briefly in 1980. Lots of military in the streets, I was intimidated to say the least. Same with Turkey. I hope to circumnavigate Europe on a brick. Cheers.
-
It is inconvenience waiting to happen. When the remaining tips of those driveshaft output splines break off, there will be sustained screeching while the transmission is in gear and forward motion under power will stop; you'll be coasting. You do not have hundreds of miles remaining on those driveshaft splines. The final drive splines appear to be in somewhat better condition and that is not unusual.
If the oil in the brown, oily, mud mix smells like sulfur, it could be leaking from around the transmission output shaft as seen in the attached image. The forward connection of the driveshaft to the transmission output shaft is covered by a boot that might be ripped or missing altogether. The boot keeps water and grit from affecting the u-joint connection. The brown tint is likely rust from the driveshaft cause by water in the oily, mud mix. The mud might actually be mud. :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-051018172953.png)
I think it would be better for you to keep dismantling all the way to the intermediate engine housing for inspection. Are you using Chris Harris's video as a guide?
OK, so I recieved the goods to repair the shaft... I have taken the swing arm off too to have a look, surely enough the boot is ripped and the transmission seal is leaking. Is it possible to remove it from the outside, or does the transmission needing to be opened up?
Thanks!
-
. . . surely enough the boot is ripped and the transmission seal is leaking. Is it possible to remove it from the outside, or does the transmission needing to be opened up?
Your question was answered in the last sentence of Reply #3 of this thread.
-
Your question was answered in the last sentence of Reply #3 of this thread.
Sorry Laitch, if I. missed something there, I have watched them videos a few times, but could have missed the info about the trans output shaft seal... Will watch the long version again...
-
If you are not intending to inspect the input shaft spines on the engine side of the transmission, you can install the boot right now. If the input shaft splines are worn, you'll have much more work to do.
With a moto that is showing wear like yours, inspecting the input side of the transmission and the condition of the clutch first is a reasonable and sensible approach.
-
The boot isn't the transmission output shaft seal. The boot protects the clutch bearing and clutch pushrod. Is the seal around the splined output shaft leaking also?
-
The boot isn't the transmission output shaft seal. Is the seal around the splined output shaft leaking also?
Yes, it is. The boot is cracked, but I have a replacement from Clayton, so that is easy enough. There was oily water inside the swing-arm as you might remember and surely enough there was oil sitting on the bottom of the output shaft seal, so that will be the source of the oil in the mix (also it smells like rotten eggs, so it should be tranny oil). So it is the shaft seal, I am looking at replacing. Now the question is, if I have to split the transmission case in order to get the seal out, or is it possible the dig it out from the outside (basically, is there a seal raised edge? And if there is one, is it inside or outside the case)? The seal is rather expensive from BMW direct, but is there a cheaper alternative? I am aware of the fact, that the main shaft seal should be bought from BMW, as it somehow special in it's form, but this might be different...
On a different note - there is a lot of axial and radial movement of the swing-arm bearings, not just a little, but quite a lot. It does run smooth though and if the swing arm is tightened down properly, it does not have any free play at all. Is that normal or do I need to replace yet another thing?
Thanks!
-
You do not have to split the transmission to change the seal, you can do it from the outside no problem.
-
You do not have to split the transmission to change the seal, you can do it from the outside no problem.
Oh great news. Is there an ordinary seal replacement, or does this has to be the $20 BMW seal?
-
greetings...
dont cheepout on the seal... go oe... or the 1st one will soon be just practice...
j o
-
Agreed get the BMW OEM one for sure
This thread helps you get the right parts
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2883.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2883.0.html)
-
OK, so I have taken the transmission off. Somehow the clutch splines look absolutely perfect to my eyes so that is a welcome surprise. I have spent nearly two hours to get just the center stand off, as the bolts were all rounded, so had to drill them off one by one. Not an easy task doing it underneath the bike, not on a lift, not much space to work with, so it wasall good fun. The bell housing is full of oily greasy muck I half expected this, as there was oil dripping veeery slowly from the weeping hole. It smells like oil and is black, so it will be engine oil. But as only I could have it, there is a snail trail from the input shaft seal down to the bottom, so that is most likely leaking too. So I might just go further to replace o ring + main seal... Because I have to order these things from BMW anyway, I might just order the output and input shaft seals from the same place... I hope, the clutch is not contaminated, it was not slipping at all, so there is a chance....
I will update some pics later, sorry in advance for the lousy quality, all I had today, was my phone and not a proper camera
-
pics
-
Take a photo with a proper camera directly in front of the disc's drive hub. Right now those hub splines seem worn. Consider all the work you are doing now and how much you'd like to do it again sooner than expected.
-
Take a photo with a proper camera directly in front of the disc's drive hub. Right now those hub splines seem worn. Consider all the work you are doing now and how much you'd like to do it again sooner than expected.
Oh shoot, I hope you are not right :(
Anyway, see attached...
-
When inspecting splines, I clean off the tops as much as possible and then look to see how much of the flat area is left. The wider that flat surface is the happier it makes me. When that flat area is more of a knife edge, the spline is junk. These spines show a tiny bit of wear as witnessed by the very slight indent on the side of the spline, but as I mentioned the flat top is nice and wide.
-
When inspecting splines, I clean off the tops as much as possible and then look to see how much of the flat area is left. The wider that flat surface is the happier it makes me. When that flat area is more of a knife edge, the spline is junk. These spines show a tiny bit of wear as witnessed by the very slight indent on the side of the spline, but as I mentioned the flat top is nice and wide.
Gryphon, hopefully you are referring to the splines on my clutch, and not the one, you have attached a picture of :) These on mine still do have flat tops, so I hope, they can stay on the bike. Wish I had pre-ordered all the seals beforehand, as I did have an inkling, I am going to replace them, but hey, I do things these way all the time, basically being a bit too gung-ho :) Now where should I get a cheap centering tool quickly???
-
The top one on this page should do the job for you.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=CA&SbCt=BA_15_40_CA_30 (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=CA&SbCt=BA_15_40_CA_30)
-
The top one on this page should do the job for you.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=CA&SbCt=BA_15_40_CA_30 (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=CA&SbCt=BA_15_40_CA_30)
Yes it would, but the postage is prohibitive. I have found a German tool, bgs-5090, that seems to be THE thing, costing about the same, as the motowork one, but minus the postage (and 2 day delivery). Or I might just go shamelessly begging at the local BMW club for somebody to lend me one for half a day
-
Some even printed one on a 3d printer, not sure, if I would trust a layered ABS plastic piece to be poked inside a hole in the engine
-
Take a photo with a proper camera directly in front of the disc's drive hub. Right now those hub splines seem worn. Consider all the work you are doing now and how much you'd like to do it again sooner than expected.
They are looking better in your latest photo. What is your plan? I seem like you are about to dismantle the clutch pack then inspect and measure the friction disc. If that is the case, be sure to mark a line across the edge of the parts in one place before disassembling to use for alignment when reassembling. Harris mentions this.
-
They are looking better in your latest photo. What is your plan? I seem like you are about to dismantle the clutch pack then inspect and measure the friction disc. If that is the case, be sure to mark a line across the edge of the parts in one place before disassembling to use for alignment when reassembling. Harrirs mentions this.
Hi Laitch, yes that is the plan, if it would not be for the leak, I would just leave it as is, but since I need to address stuff further in, I might as well take it apart, clean, measure, etc. Harris and others mention the markings, I will make sure, I do that, I will just have to make sure, it is durable enough :)
-
My description applies to any of the splines, clutch, drive shaft, or final drive. Look for lots of flat at the top.
If you are on a tight budget, almost anything can and has been used as a clutch centering tool. Felt tip marking pens, and screwdriver handles have been used. If you are patient, and have a good eye, you can even do it without a centering tool..
-
If you are patient, and have a good eye, you can even do it without a centering tool..
Haha, I am not patient and my eyes are crap :D I have spoken to a lathe place, who might just make me one, if it is cheap enough. If not, I'll make one from 18mm hardwood stock and a 6mm pin in the middle. Speaking of which - Chris' video shows a pushrod of a very different design to mine, and looking at various pics on the web, the k100 and k75 rods do differ. So what kind of a tool should I get? A simple one with a 6mm+18mm sections, or does it have to be more intricate, just like the one on the pictures, diy'ers use?
Thank you,
Gab
-
So what kind of a tool should I get? A simple one with a 6mm+18mm sections, or does it have to be more intricated, just like the one on the pictures, diy'ers use?
Get a tool designed for the purpose. Plans are on the site. Borrow one from the BMW club if it conforms to those dimensions. Even a plastic tool of the correct dimensions would be suitable.
Those experienced with mechanical work tend to view some procedures as uncomplicated that would in fact be difficult for somebody who is inexperienced and doesn't grasp the principles behind them. Part of the purpose of a clutch alignment tool is to speed up production in a factory or service shop by providing accuracy with less time devoted to patience.
On a different note - there is a lot of axial and radial movement of the swing-arm bearings, not just a little, but quite a lot. It does run smooth though and if the swing arm is tightened down properly, it does not have any free play at all. Is that normal or do I need to replace yet another thing?
Does this statement indicated that the bearings are loose in bores? What part or assembly is running smooth? How are you testing for free play?
-
If I'm not mistaken, the swingarm bearings are tapered and need a preload to remove the play you say they have. There is a critical torque that must be applied to the left hand side to apply the correct preload.
-
Get a tool designed for the purpose. Plans are on the site. Borrow one from the BMW club if it conforms to those dimensions. Even a plastic tool of the correct dimensions would be suitable.
Those experienced with mechanical work tend to view some procedures as uncomplicated that would in fact be difficult for somebody who is inexperienced and doesn't grasp the principles behind them. Part of the purpose of a clutch alignment tool is to speed up production in a factory or service shop by providing accuracy with less time devoted to patience.
Does this statement indicated that the bearings are loose in bores? What part or assembly is running smooth? How are you testing for free play?
Fair deuce Laitch, I would never call myself anyhow experienced, I am however brave and stupid enough to tackle stuff well above my league with the usual mixed results :)
I was asking, because the DIY tool has got multiple sections, just like the K100 clutch rod has (like this for example https://i.servimg.com/u/f86/11/16/56/81/clutch11.jpg ), but the tool, bmw motorworks and others sell is a lot simpler, basically it looks like the bgs-5090 in different disguise having a 6mm and a 18mm part with a very slight chamfer for insertion
-
I was asking, because . . .
What would be the ideal response from us that you're seeking?
-
Haha Laitch :D It is tricky to ask for an advise right after the tar snake man pissed you all off :)))
There is no such thing as an ideal response, if I would have one, I would just go ahead and do it my way. That never helped me in the past though and I am very much willing to listen to the advise of the more experienced. I can not eyeball the clutch, as I don't have the patience nor other positive traits needed for such thing, and I do not trust myself to make a tool, that would be precise enough for the task to be achieved. The lathe place can probably make me any shape, I'd need as long as I have the measurements, but the DIY tool, I have sent in my previous response may be this complicated, because the end of the K100 rod is this much intricate. Since the K75 rod is a lot simpler - basically a rod with a wide washer, I might be fine, or actually better off with the simpler tool. I am not a bike shop nor I will ever own a K100, so I might not need the other tool, but if you guys think, it makes for a more precise setting, I'll get that fabricated...
Now to the bearings - the only way, I have measured free play was with the swing-arm out and me tugging, pushing and twisting on the protruding inner race. That has got plenty of movement either way, but as Gryphon said it most likely needs preload. I must admit, I have watched the Harris videos previously till the disassembly finishes, now I have watched it all, and that answered my question - so before taking the transmission off, I have put the swing-arm back temporarily and tightened the pin to the specified 10Nm, and all the play was gone, the swingarm had only specified up and down movement without any binding, crunchy operation and so on...
-
. . .I have watched the Harris videos previously till the disassembly finishes, now I have watched it all, and that answered my question
This statement indicates a budding understanding of correct procedure and is the most encouraging of anything you have written thus far. Whenever a multi-step procedure is being undertaken, all instructions involved with it should be read or viewed carefully—all the way to the end of the procedure before the first step is taken. That is the habit to develop rather than nurture impulsivity and impatience.
Good luck with your project. :2thumbup:
-
... rather than nurture impulsivity and impatience.
:D I very well knew, I would need a clutch centering tool, seals, o-ring, and what not well before I have started to tackle this issue. At the very first moment, I have opened up the expensive parcel from the US I commenced on disassembling the bike - at first thinking, I will go as far, as the driveshaft replacement goes and ended up, where I am at now. I would need the bike on Monday but it is not going to be earlier than Tuesday or Wednesday, I'll get the seals and couple more days to get the tool. Two years ago I have taken apart my CB400 thinking I am in for some small things, ended up dismantling the WHOLE top end and waiting for three weeks off the road in the middle of the riding season for the special parts to arrive from the UK. One never learns :)))
-
OK... So one of the local BMW guys lent me a very professional tool. I've tried it, before taking the clutch pack apart and it was fitting perfectly. So I have commenced on the removal of the pack, it was greasy but the clutch disc somehow escaped dry, so at least I will not need to change that. Thickness is 4.96mm, so it is not new, but far from done I guess.
It was very hard to get the flywheel off as the rubber o ring was preventing to get it over the threads, I ended up cutting it up the rubber in situ (not an easy task, I'm telling you, but I'm sure, you guys know this very well), once that biatch was out of the way, the flywheel came off without a further ado. Now that f*cking seal gave me a nightmare, but we had our little fight and I have won, although at one point I was promising the bike to break it up for parts or even worse, turning it into a cafe racer, and that seem to have made the trick :)
Tomorrow I will get my new seals and I know, I should have the main seal installed 0.5mm proud, or is it? Proud or in 0.5mm? Does it matter at all, as long as it is not seating at the same place, as the previous one was? If proud, I was thinking of making a ring (of 80/70mm let's say) out of 0.5mm cardboard and use that, as a washer underneath the seal, is that plain stupid? After all, seals on mating surfaces are cardboard and they seem to hold up forever... What do you guys think?
Thanks!
-
I glued a piece of cardboard, with the correct size hole, from a breakfast cereal box to a piece of wood and used the piece of wood to drive the seal into place.
-
I glued a piece of cardboard, with the correct size hole, from a breakfast cereal box to a piece of wood and used the piece of wood to drive the seal into place.
Thanks Gryphon, I might have read your description somewhere else about this before.... But should the seal be 'in' from flush or proud? Or does it matter on K75? Sorry, I am just a tad baffled... Oh one more thing, does anybody sand the friction plate and the locking plates? In my scooter days that was common procedure on the centrifugal clutch...
-
The cardboard acts as a spacer to prevent driving the seal in more than where it will be 0.5mm above the surrounding area.
-
The cardboard acts as a spacer to prevent driving the seal in more than where it will be 0.5mm above the surrounding area.
Ah, OK, I see, brilliant, I have cereal boxes all over the house having a small child, so I will have a selection of thicknesses I guess :)
-
Great! Good luck.
-
Great! Good luck.
Thanks! Any idea by any chance about sanding the plates and disc?
-
greetings...
you feed your child factory cereal... that is on the top 10 list of foods no child should ever eat...
j o
-
But you need the boxes for seal installation tools.
-
But you need the boxes for seal installation tools.
It also might be wise—given the ongoing expense of replacement parts—to start searching for a suitably-sized refrigerator boxes to use as housing.
-
the seal needs to be installed 0.5mm proud.
-
Of course the easy joke is that this project may put YOU Gabe in a big box. Just figure out how to enjoy the process and you will be rewarded.
-
greetings...
you feed your child factory cereal... that is on the top 10 list of foods no child should ever eat...
j o
There is a difference between factory made and factory made, we buy stuff, that is reasonably OK and is not made with preservatives, sugar or any other sweeteners. Anyway, just to conform, I have made the tool using one of my son's sweater packaging :))) The thickness is perfect and the tool has got a picture of a boy in a... sweater :)
-
There is a difference between factory made and factory made . . .
When pressed for a recommendation, I always recommend the former.
-
greetings...
if it comes in a box its factory made and factory made...
j o
-
if it comes in a box its factory made and factory made...
Sort of like factory air comes from an air conditioned factory?