Post by: lilau3 on March 11, 2018, 08:23:45 PM
Question is does this pitting matter on the water side?
Also does the oil pump shaft look usable?
Thanks (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/a974dc33bda96d66e1de16df8af217cc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/49e203be61d16f2b215c868d4710a3a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/ea51e453626699d1acf4c69cadd8d210.jpg)
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Post by: caveman on March 11, 2018, 09:49:51 PM
Post by: lilau3 on March 12, 2018, 02:23:03 AM
The pitting on the shaft would concern me.
yes, it's all looking pretty sad, even the cover was very badly corroded.
Just bit the bullet and ordered a new one from Motobins ($$$ :( ), ordered a new cover too, ah well, at least I will not have to go through rebuilding the whole thing.
Given the bad corrosion are there any other parts I should be checking or looking out for?
Post by: Martin on March 12, 2018, 02:59:17 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: lilau3 on March 12, 2018, 03:10:53 AM
To save further grief use only a good quality compatible coolant with distilled water. Never use tap water.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin, will do. I've dropped a few liters of water through it to and it seems to be fairly clear now.
I was thinking once it's all back together again I'd fill it up with normal water, run it until the thermostat opens then drain it again, then I'll fill it up with proper coolant.
I use Motul Motocool Factory Line in my Vespa GTS, not sure if that would be suitable for the K100?
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/motocool-factory-line
Post by: Martin on March 12, 2018, 04:11:13 AM
He'll probably enlighten you on this. A clean functioning cooling system is critical to the well being of your Brick. The cooling fins should also be cleaned out and carefully straightened where needed. Do not use compressed air or high pressure water as this could cause further damage. A fin straightening tool can be had on Ebay a strip or piece of plastic can also be used. Take care not to damage the fins and just use low pressure water to flush out the fins.
Regards Martin.
Post by: lilau3 on March 12, 2018, 04:58:08 AM
For some weird reason I can get OEM coolant at a reasonable price. If you have sign of scale or gunk in your radiator it might be worthwhile using a flushing agent. Gryph had a really badly scaled up radiator and I believe he remove the radiator and filled it with white vinegar to clean it out.
He'll probably enlighten you on this. A clean functioning cooling system is critical to the well being of your Brick. The cooling fins should also be cleaned out and carefully straightened where needed. Do not use compressed air or high pressure water as this could cause further damage. A fin straightening tool can be had on Ebay a strip or piece of plastic can also be used. Take care not to damage the fins and just use low pressure water to flush out the fins.
Regards Martin.
OK I’ll try the flushing agent first up.
Fins all seem to be A OK thankfully. I’ll give them a degrease though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/519873d41b572d12fedad6ba9ac90ef7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/433e84802acab3bf4f19d460be85824e.jpg)
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Post by: Martin on March 12, 2018, 05:25:47 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: lilau3 on March 12, 2018, 05:47:32 AM
The only problem with flushing agents is that they can sometimes make things worse if there is a lot of scale present. The scale that the agent loosens up can sometimes cause more blockages. These can sometimes be removed by reverse flushing. To stop pushing and compacting any scale you should only reverse flush.
Regards Martin.
I’m not familiar with that process @Martin. I assume it means pumping water from the bottom of the hose that connects to the water pump (and out through the filler)?
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Post by: gazman on March 12, 2018, 06:31:19 AM
Post by: bizzaro on March 12, 2018, 06:46:59 AM
Mate I'm pretty sure he's talking about the fins that make up the radiator, not the ones on your engine :yesDitto on that. And if the fins are not really damaged much, my vote would be leave them alone as you could potentially cause a leak trying to manipulate them.
Also, yes, back flushing is simply reversing the flow the water normally takes. So Really you want to flush both ways till it appears clear. And as stated, if you loosen junk up in there, flush both ways multiple times till it comes out clean and runs clear. Then rinse it with distilled water. I would run the bike with just distilled water for a bit, drain and repeat. And by the looks of your pump, a thermosthat may be in order. Definitely have a look at it and check it in a pot of hot water and make sure it is opening smoothly at the proper temperature. When you are certain it is clean, and have rinsed it with distilled water, mix you desired coolant with distilled water and you should be good to go till the next time you refresh your coolant.
Post by: stokester on March 12, 2018, 06:49:41 AM
To save further grief use only a good quality compatible coolant with distilled water. Never use tap water.Yes, very important and do it regularly. Although probably more often than necessary, I do mine every two years following Bob Fleischer's procedures and recommendations. -> [size=78%]http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/k-coolant.htm (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/k-coolant.htm)[/size]
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on March 12, 2018, 06:53:43 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 12, 2018, 01:47:35 PM
Flush dirt from the radiator fins from tha back side it means you have to remove the radiator, but that will let you do a good clean and flush of all the hoses and other stuff in the laundry sinks. A gallon of white vinegar for a couple bucks will do the job. These bikes are old enough that a good cooling system cleaning is probably overdue.
To clean the fins just put the radidiator in a pan of dish detergent and water overnight. Next day put it face down and pour water from a bucket through it from a height of about two feet. Do that until the fins look nice and clean. To clean the innards, tape up all but one hose connection and fill the radiator with the white vinegar and let it sit for a half hour and dump it out. Then run distilled water through it until it comes out clean. That should only take about gallon. Same vinegar soak for the hoses.
Distilled water doesn't have to cost a lot. If you have a dehumidifier you have an unlimited supply of distilled water for free.
You've been into the pump, that's the hard part, might as well do a good job and pull the radiator too.
Post by: Martin on March 12, 2018, 03:07:20 PM
Regards Martin.
Cooling system BMW.png (6.86 kB . 258x182 - viewed 577 times)
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 02:40:07 AM
You've been into the pump, that's the hard part, might as well do a good job and pull the radiator too.
Yeah might as well take the radiator off and give it a good flush. Fins look in good condition (at least from the outside).
Post by: Martin on March 13, 2018, 03:11:14 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 03:34:32 AM
Make sure any flushing agent is aluminium compatible. I've had my Brick 21 of it's 26 years. It's always been run while I have owned it on OEM coolant with distilled water changed every two years. Two years ago I decided to flush the whole cooling system to see if any nasties had been accumulating. The whole system was scale free. I also think that as an added benefit running OEM and distilled has lengthened the life of my water pump. Maybe I have just been lucky but now have 160,000 K's.
Regards Martin.
Hi Martin, so I assume I can get this coolant from any BMW Motorrad outlet (e.g. Southbank in Melbourne)? Do they only carry one type or is there a spec I need? Thanks
Post by: Martin on March 13, 2018, 04:34:22 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 06:04:35 AM
Strangely the seal on the thermostat seems too large!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/76f533491cf1757b55e20f07e4193050.jpg)
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 13, 2018, 06:22:52 AM
Concentrate on the fins. Dawn dish detergent is the best stuff for cleaning them.
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 06:40:15 AM
The good news here is that your thermostat looks pretty clean. How do the hoses look inside? You might just need to pour the vinegar through the radiator to give it a quick clean.
Concentrate on the fins. Dawn dish detergent is the best stuff for cleaning them.
Turns out it’s hard to take photos of the inside of hoses..... here’s the main three.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/860ce9b39f5e01275574843a34e335d3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/8f773695ceb8c8c17becd3f781772687.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/42825bf8e49561e55d37181936eeb94c.jpg)
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Post by: Martin on March 13, 2018, 06:50:12 AM
Regards Martin.
Radiator Cap Seals 5.jpg.png.jpg (57.73 kB . 768x576 - viewed 580 times) Radiator Cap Seals 4.jpg.png.jpg (46.54 kB . 768x576 - viewed 564 times) Radiator Cap Seals 2.jpg.png (6.86 kB . 258x182 - viewed 491 times) [ Invalid Attachment ] Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 13, 2018, 07:49:03 AM
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 03:02:19 PM
Did you happen to get any oil in the coolant when the pump failed? A lot of the seals in cooling systems are made of a plastic called EPDM. Good stuff, it's soft and sturdy over a wide temperature range, trouble is, it is destroyed by oil.
The pump didn’t fail as such, it just had the usual oil leak from the front so I knew it would need at least a rebuild. Turns out it was too far gone.
When I drained the coolant I don’t think there was any oil in it, but it was the green coolant which I believe shouldn’t be used on alloy blocks.
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Post by: Laitch on March 13, 2018, 03:47:22 PM
Strangely the seal on the thermostat seems too large!Your thermostat's seal should fit closely around the perimeter of its flange. There should be an o-ring in the picture, too. View the relationships in this post. (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1478-solved-leak-at-thermostat-housing)
Post by: stokester on March 13, 2018, 04:03:01 PM
The pump didn’t fail as such, it just had the usual oil leak from the front so I knew it would need at least a rebuild. Turns out it was too far gone.Color of the coolant is not always a good indicator of the proper coolant. My K75 manual has a statement "Caution Use only antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors free of nitrite!"
When I drained the coolant I don’t think there was any oil in it, but it was the green coolant which I believe shouldn’t be used on alloy blocks.
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As mentioned before I follow Bob Fleicher's recommendation that the coolant not contain; nitrites, silicates, phosphates and borates.
I was looking at the ingredients of a number of different coolants today and found that Prestone Extended Life, which is green, is the only one that is labeled as being silicate, phosphate, nitrate and borate free. The others including Peak Long-life (phosphate and silicate free), BMW Auto (contains silicates), Motorcraft Gold (sodium nitrate), Prestone DexCool (?) don't do a good job disclosing the ingredients.
What I found is that most do not do a good job of disclosing the ingredients and color is not a good indicator of compatibility with our machines.
Post by: lilau3 on March 13, 2018, 11:01:44 PM
One of my mates bikes radiator seals had the same thing happen. Both seals go onto the actual cap the one shown should fit up into the cap.
The oversized seal is definitely from the thermostat. The other seals can be seen in this image:
Post by: Martin on March 14, 2018, 03:24:58 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on March 14, 2018, 08:01:03 AM
The oversized seal is definitely from the thermostat. The other seals can be seen in this image:Regardless of what you have, the gaskets and o-ring need to fit the parts and assembly as indicated by the photos and diagram in the link in post#25.
Post by: drneo on March 21, 2018, 10:46:20 PM
The pump didn’t fail as such, it just had the usual oil leak from the front so I knew it would need at least a rebuild. Turns out it was too far gone.
When I drained the coolant I don’t think there was any oil in it, but it was the green coolant which I believe shouldn’t be used on alloy blocks.
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Not to highjack the thread, but I have a K75RT that is doing the same thing. The IBMWR has a good explanation to rebuild, but is the general conscious still that it's a good idea to attempt to rebuild (either yourself, or take it to a dealer) vs. buying a replacement?
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 11:02:21 PM
. . . is the general conscious still that it's a good idea to attempt to rebuild (either yourself, or take it to a dealer) vs. buying a replacement?If you have the money to buy a replacement, buy it and bolt it onto the bike. If you have the money to pay a dealer to replace or repair it, pay the dealer. Only attempt repair yourself if you have a proven ability to follow instructions, patience to work carefully with focus, and access to tools, space and time to do the work.