1995 K75 Rt fork stancions replacement

[Pdm23]

so, I thought all was well with my new purchase. 100 mile trip home and it rode great. Smooth engine and gearbox.


However last night on a ride out with a friend I discovered oil leaking from the fork gaiters. I removed the bottom clip and fork oil spilled out. The stancions (both) have a section of very deep pits( almost as though someone has hit them 3 or 4 times with a big hammer and a hole punch.


Having to bite the bullet and replace the stancions.


I can get reconditioned ones (exchange)


Is this a job for the home mechanic (not done many forks in my time)?


Is it full fairing removal?


What's the best way of going about it and any things to be careful with?


Looking forward to guidance.


Thanks in advance.

[Elipten]

In my experience no need to remove faring to remove the two forks

Big steps
Hang brake calipers from handle bars with wire/rope and undo bolts
Remove front wheel
Losten triple tree bolts holding fork tubes
And done



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[Pdm23]

Thinking of starting the job as mentioned. Wondering about dismantling the front mudguard and brake calipers which are linked by a brake line which [size=78%]goes over the mudguard.[/size]
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[Motorhobo]

All that will have to come off -- calipers and brake lines are hung up carefully in a secure position -- I find those big rubber-coated twist ties you can get at Home Depot or Lowes super handy for that kind of thing -- bungees are a PITA and string -- ugh. Those big twist-tie thingies are awesome!


You might also have to be prepared with a MAP torch -- I had to heat the triple tree once to get the tube out -- was stuck pretty good.

[Laitch]

-- bungees are a PITA and string -- ugh.

Thongs work pretty well in a pinch.

[Martin]

Nahh love those big twisty things great for holding things out of the way. And they are really cheap.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

Thinking of starting the job as mentioned. Wondering about dismantling the front mudguard and brake calipers which are linked by a brake line which goes over the mudguard.

Which manual are you using?

[Pdm23]

No manual.


Odd pic off Internet.


Got it all in bits now waiting for replacement stancions and seals.


Good advise on here, not a difficult job so far.


Need to take springs out and clean (paraffin, maths or petrol?)


Thinking ahead to reassembly, is it same amount of oil both sides? (Heard different things)


Mine is 1995 k75 rt with abs.


I've ordered 10wt rock oil for the forks.


Also is there a correct way to replace bushing?

[Laitch]

420cc of oil goes into each tube after reassembly.
Your bike has a Showa fork. Here are some instructions. Search for Delboy's Garage fork repair video. That will show you what the instruction link in this post refers to as slide hammer technique.

[Pdm23]

I ordered replacement front forks from a breaker. As the sliders and stancions are damaged.


However the replacements will need new oil and seals.


They have just arrived and at first glance look the same, but there are some subtle differences. The main one is that they are Brembo, not Showa.


They were advertised as 1995 k75 rt with abs. Same as mine.


Are these still usable in mine?


Same seals?

[Martin]

Measure the diameter of the fork legs on both and compare.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

No manual. Odd pic off Internet.

They have just arrived and at first glance look the same, but there are some subtle differences. The main one is that they are Brembo, not Showa. . . . They were advertised as 1995 k75 rt with abs. Same as mine.

Purchasing a late edition of a Clymer manual and using it as a guide will be a help to you. What you have as a replacement fork was a replacement on the bike from the breaker, too. The stock K75RT fork was a Showa from 08/91 according the MAX BMW parts fiche.

That fiche also shows the fork bridges differ between Showa and Brembo. Did those come with it?

[Pdm23]

I've returned the Brembo forks as they wouldn't fit in the triple tree.


Having to buy replacement stancions now.


Any pics of the Showa forks?


Exploded view showing all components?


Mine doesn't have a top spacer on top of the springs is that right?

[Laitch]

Any pics of the Showa forks? Exploded view showing all components?

Familiarize yourself with a parts fiche like this one at MAX BMW and use it as a guide. Be aware of when there are from and to dates connected with a part. Those indicate which parts are made for your bike. A latest edition of the Clymer manual really is a help for understanding how to work on what you have. It includes variations among models and model years.

[Pdm23]

Got the forks rebuilt now with new (recon) stancions, seals and oil.


Just wondering if anyone knows the torque for the top and bottom fork clamps?

[Vespa no more]

See attached.
Pretty sure you are referring to the last four items "Hex Bolt 5 or 7 mm"


Given that you don't have a manual, whenever you undo something, make a note of where the spanner was before releasing bolt / nut. Once loose, return the spanner to that position to get an idea of torque.


Also, at risk of telling you what you already know, if the fastener has not been undone for some time, your are better hitting it hard first go instead of slowly building up the pressure. Make sure the tool is correctly bedded in to the fastener (eg. tap the end of the screw driver or allen key with a hammer "light tap with something heavy").


I had an XP Falcon at uni which ran on 5 cylinders for ages until the road assistance fella freed the dud spark plug saying "a quick jerk is better than a long steady pull." Wise words. Most unroadworthy car I've ever had - a veritable litany of issues. Loved it.


Some people obsess over the torque settings. Having said that - I've just taken delivery of a 1/4" torque wrench for all those 4NM settings. If its biting into aluminium - don't over do it... and use some copper-eze  /grease. And "No F'ing locktite"


Anyway download the manual for free from this forum


Guy

[BrickMW]

4nm? No problem... this is one of my favorite Harbor Freight gems. It comes with 3/8 and 1/4 adapters and can be set to alarm at torque setting. I normally just watch the display of "live" torque value.


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[Pdm23]

Thanks for the info.

All back together and forks are now as good as new.

Next problem is oil seeping from front of engine.

Don't know if it's pump or sump or both.

Feel like giving up at this point.

Only had it for a few weeks and it's in bits more than on road.

[Laitch]

Feel like giving up at this point.
Only had it for a few weeks and it's in bits more than on road.

It is frustrating; many of us understand that. Sorting through a used bike is serious stuff because it can cost money and time. That's why using a couple of manuals to accompany what you find on the Internet is useful.

How many miles are on the odometer? Do you know how it was stored? Have you put its identification number into an Internet vehicle identification number checker to determine if your bike is actually what you think it is? Click on this link.

For now, start a different thread titled "Oil Leak" or start a thread in the Projects section where all your bike's conditions can be discussed in one place.

[Vespa no more]

Smiling when I read "It's frustrating"
Been there.
These bikes are well engineered...with a couple of foibles (like all)
Once this is sorted, it will be a reliable and satisfying thing.
I was / am...STILL :(   working in a crowded, messy single car garage. My bike took some months to revive.
And now I've pulled it apart ... must like the pain.


Hang in there.
It will get sorted, you will enjoy it, you will buy another...and another...and another


Regards Guy

[/size][size=78%]"all mechanical problems are finite"[/size]